Spotlight on the Cinque Terre

Spotlight on the Cinque Terre

Check out David’s awesome pictures from the Best of Italy and Essence of Italy tours on the Exploring Europe Facebook page and on Instagram. Keep reading to find out more about our second destination.

The Cinque Terre

The rugged coastline of Liguria is peppered with small fishing villages, terraced vineyards, olive groves, and breathtaking vistas. Although the area has become quite a tourist destination in recent years, you’ll find the local folks still attached to their age-old customs and traditions. Today we are exploring the Cinque Terre.

The Cinque Terre—or “five lands”—is a loose-knit group of villages on Italy’s northern Ligurian Sea. For centuries the people here have etched out a living from the land and the sea. Castles were erected in the Middle Ages to protect the local land baron and his serfs. It was not uncommon during this era for raiders and pirates to kidnap locals and sell them into slavery or hold them for ransom. During the Renaissance and beyond, the villagers became more independent and began to forge out a living centered on fishing, vines, and olives. They constructed hundreds of miles of terraced gardening spots, all held in place by free-standing stone walls.

After settling into your hotel, you’ll have time to get out and explore your “home” village. Enjoy a relaxing afternoon by the water. Visit the local grocer and stock up on your picnic supplies. Cap off the day with a digestif or glass of wine while enjoying the moonlight glimmering off the rippling Mediterranean waters. To read about the many activities and attractions the Cinque Terre has to offer, click here.

Join David in Italy in September

Ready to kick back, relax and enjoy the Cinque Terre? Join David on the Essence of Italy or Best of Italy tour in September. Sign up now and take $500 off the original price.

 

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Exploring the Cinque Terre

Exploring the Cinque Terre

2017-06-Cinque-Terre_webWhat to Do in the Cinque Terre

The Cinque Terre—or “five lands”—is a loose-knit group of villages on Italy’s northern Ligurian Sea.

Swimming

Every town, except Corniglia, has a rocky beach with access to the cool water of the Ligurian Sea. Monterosso al Mare is the only town with a sandy beach, rental umbrellas, and chairs.

If you’re going to the beach, leave your passport at the hotel. Beach attire is appropriate everywhere. Wear a shirt or cover up when going to and from the beach or when dining. There is not much danger of theft or pickpockets in the Cinque Terre, but watch your things when swimming and sitting at outdoor cafés.

Boating

At many of the villages, you can charter a private boat and captain by the hour or for the day. Head out to sea to enjoy a different view of the villages or visit a more remote beach and enjoy swimming or snorkeling in the pristine waters.

Hiking

The Cinque Terre’s five villages are connected by a series of trails which wander through the vineyards, gardens, and olive groves. Originally these trails were constructed to give access to the terraced gardens and to provide a transportation route between villages. Today, the Italian government has designated the entire area a National Park in order to preserve the delicate balance between tourism and conservation. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Walking is easy between Riomaggiore and Manarola (approx. 1.2 miles), the famous Via dell’Amore, a paved trail cut into the cliff. Unfortunately, the Via dell’Amore has been closed for the last four years. Trails become progressively more difficult as you proceed west. Manarola to Corniglia (approx. 1.2 miles) features spectacular gardens and sea views. This trail too has been closed for four years. The trail from Corniglia to Vernazza (approx. 2 miles) climbs up through the groves to the highest point of the Cinque Terre with steep, uneven stone steps. The most difficult and scenic hike is between Vernazza and Monterosso (approx. 1.8 miles), with lots of stairs and narrow passages; it offers a stunning panorama of all five towns.

In the past, some of the trails connecting the villages have been closed due to landslides. Always check with the National Park Office before purchasing your “trail pass” and heading out. Be sure to wear comfortable shoes and bring a bottle of water. Do not litter. And don’t forget your sunscreen, hat, and sunglasses.

Dining

Local and freshly caught seafood is a specialty at all restaurants. Expect the seafood to look different and taste better than at home. The area is also famous for its basil pesto, which is especially tasty with the local favorite pasta known as troffie. The focaccia bread is another regional specialty you won’t want to miss.

The Cinque Terre is well known for its fresh and crisp white wine. Even if you normally do not like wine, try it here. The local consortium of growers combines their grapes at each harvest and produce the government regulated Cinque Terre D.O.C. wine. Bottles of this wine sell for €12 in shops and around €18 in restaurants. If you want to try a village-specific wine, ask at a wine shop or restaurant. These wines are produced from specific, defined vineyards, many of which the wine merchant or restaurateur can point out as you are making your purchase. These sell for €18-€28 per bottle. Many restaurants sell their cheapest (but still very good) wine in a carafe, either by the liter (litro), half-liter (mezzo litro) or quarter liter (quartino). Don’t miss out this bargain!

Equally as famous are the two “dessert” drinks. Limoncello is a syrupy and tangy lemon-based drink. Sciacchetrà is a sweet dessert wine made from grapes that have been left on the vine to increase their sugar content.

Cinque Terre

Tom Hickinbotham – The Cinque Terre

What to See in the Cinque Terre

Monterosso

This westernmost village is the only resort town, with lots of wine shops, artisan shops, hotels, and restaurants. It features a long seaside promenade with sandy beaches. The San Cristoforo hill separates the old town and the new, more modern area. You can take the pedestrian tunnel or walk along the seaside to go between the two.

Hike up the San Cristoforo hill for views of the entire Cinque Terre coastline. Here you will also find the Convento dei Cappuccini and the Chiesa di San Francesco, dating to 1623. A painting of the crucifixion attributed to Van Dyck hangs in the church. The nearby cemetery holds the ruins of an old castle and watchtower built by the Genoese. The 16th-century Aurora Tower stands at the foot of the hill.

In the historical center of Monterosso, you can visit the 13th-century Gothic Church of San Giovanni Battista. Its bell tower originally served as a watchtower. The façade comprises alternating bands of white and green marble, and the interior features a rose window and a Baroque altar. The Oratory of Confraternita dei Neri and the Oratory of Confraternita dei Bianchi are also nearby.

Vernazza

This is perhaps the most photogenic village, so it’s best to visit early or late when the day-trippers are gone. Because of its natural harbor, the town became active in sea trade after coming under the control of Genoa in the 13th century. It is dominated by the ruins of the castles and bastions built to protect it. The Church of Santa Margherita di Antiochia, built in 1318, stands in the small square overlooking the seaside.

Corniglia

Perched 100 meters above the coast, this is the smallest and quietest village. From the train station, there are nearly 400 steps to reach the town. Don’t worry; you can also take the bus, which is usually waiting outside the station with the arrival of each train. The 14th-century Church of San Pietro is one of the best examples of Ligurian Gothic style and has a rose window made of Carrara marble and a 12th-century christening font.

Manarola

From the stations, turn left, through the tunnel, to reach the old town. At the end of the tunnel, walking right (uphill) will eventually bring you to Piazza Papa Innocenzo IV, which offers an amazing view of the sea. In this square, you’ll find the Church of San Lorenzo, built in 1338, with its Gothic façade and Baroque interior. There is also an oratory and bell tower in the square.

Turning left as you exit the tunnel, will take you to the harbor. Here, you’ll notice the boats parked along the street like cars. In the evening, you can watch the local fishermen hoist their boats out of the sea. The café Nessun Dorma provides a good vantage point overlooking the harbor.

Riomaggiore

This is the easternmost village. Trains arrive at the station in the small square, which contains a shop, the park service office and a fountain. Go to the right, through the tunnel, to arrive in the old town. At the end of the tunnel, the main “street” continues uphill to the left. If you turn right and go down the stairs, you’ll reach the harbor and beach.

Walking up the ancient cobbled street to the left will bring you past shops selling food, wine and beach stuff. The street is lined with several bars serving local wine and good food. There are several pizzerias as well. This part of town is surrounded by terraces. The Church of San Giovanni Battista was originally built in 1340, but the façade was rebuilt in the 19th century in a Neo-Gothic style. The marble doors, rose window, crucifix and organ are worth a visit, and there is a nice view of the village from the square.

A castle stands atop the hill to the northwest of the village. It was most likely built in the 13th century to protect against attacks from the sea. Today it is used as a conference center and boasts wonderful panoramic views of the coast. The Oratory of San Rocco, next to the castle, was built in the 15th century in remembrance of those who died from the plague. A cliff-hanging trail leads from the beach to old Nazi bunkers and a hilltop botanical garden.

 

Ready to kick back, relax and enjoy the Cinque Terre? Join David on the Essence of Italy or Best of Italy tour.

 

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Introducing the 2019 Tour Lineup

Introducing the 2019 Tour Lineup

sorrentoOur 2019 tour lineup is out, featuring updated itineraries for Ireland and the return of our tours to France and Spain! See an overview of all 2019 tours here, with a helpful chart to compare prices, dates and duration.

Spotlight on Tours Visiting Italy

You’ve decided to go to Italy. Now comes the hard part: choosing which tour to sign up for! Here is a guide to help you get started.

Best of Italy: This tour has it all, with the ideal mix of major tourist attractions and off-the-beaten-path destinations. Visit big cities (Rome, Florence, Venice and Milan), enjoy the countryside around Tuscany and Lake Como and take a dip in the Mediterranean in the Cinque Terre.

– Choose this tour if you’ve got the time and money to experience the best Italy has to offer in a single trip.

Essence of Italy: This tour covers the core sites of the Best of Italy tour in as much detail (Rome, Florence, Tuscany and the Cinque Terre), but doesn’t go to Venice, Milan or Lake Como.

– Choose this tour if you’re looking for a good introduction to Italy but your time and budget are tight.

Tuscany Villa Vacation: This tour spends seven nights at a Tuscan villa, with plenty of time to relax, soak in the local culture and take day trips to nearby towns and vineyards.

– Choose this tour if you’re looking for a more in-depth experience at a relaxing pace.

Best of Southern ItalyThis tour starts in Rome and then heads south to explore the bottom half of the boot from coast to coast. You’ll have a nice mix of tourist destinations (Rome, Naples and the Amalfi coast) and some less-well-known stops (the Gargano Peninsula, Ostuni, Matera, Salerno and Sorrento). Enjoy villas, castles, museums, a cruise and, of course, authentic dining experiences.   

– Choose this tour if you’ve seen all the major destinations in northern Italy and want to experience Italy’s southern cuisine.

Best of SicilyThis tour heads even further south! Beginning in Palermo, it completes nearly a full circuit of the island’s coast. Sicily is a true melting pot. You’ll see Greek temples and theatres, Arab-influenced mosaics and Spanish Baroque architecture. You’ll also travel the slopes of Mount Etna and walk the streets of Catania’s fish market.

– Choose this tour if you’ve seen it all on the mainland and want to experience a unique blend of cultures.

Best of the MEDThis tour ventures beyond Italy, traveling the Mediterranean coast from Barcelona to Nice to the Cinque Terre. In between, you’ll see medieval castles, Roman ruins and modern marvels.

– Choose this tour if you like the seaside and want to check off a few more countries on your bucket list.

Still can’t decide? Head over to our website for a helpful chart that compares prices, dates and duration of all our Italy tours. 

Reminder: Scrapbook contest

There are just two months left to enter the virtual scrapbook contest and win a free seat on any 2019 David McGuffin tour. Be sure to check out the rules and enter the contest on our website. Need help getting started? This post can help you choose a website builder.

The deadline for submissions is February 5, 2019.

 

 

 

 

 

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Spotlight on Rome

Spotlight on Rome

 

David is currently trekking through Italy on the Best of Italy and Essence of Italy tours. Follow him on his adventure and check out his awesome pictures on the Exploring Europe Facebook page. Keep reading to find out more about our first destination.

Rome

Rome, the Eternal City, is a must-see destination for any European tour.  There is no way to pack all the sights into just one visit. However, with a little planning you can get an enjoyable overview of this world-class city. 

For many, touring Rome can be a grueling process, especially in the hot and humid summer months.  The city is overloaded with cars, motorbikes, buses and millions of people.  All this commotion seems to put a certain amount of stress and fatigue on every tourist venture around the city.

In order to get a handle on the whole Roman touring process, you need to think of the city as three very different tourist destinations.  I like to divide the sprawling city into three historical regions:  ancient Rome, Vatican City and the Baroque city center.  Each destination has its own historical and cultural significance as well as a unique character.

Ancient Rome

The major tourist sites in this area are the Roman Forum, the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, the Arch of Titus, the Arch of Constantine and the Circo Massimo.  Nearby are several important churches dating from the post-Roman era: San Clemente, San Pietro in Chains, San Giovanni in Laterno. Read more.

Vatican City

Sights here are all related to the Holy See and include Saint Peter’s Basilica, the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museum and gardens. Read more.

Baroque City Center

Fanning out from either side of the via del Corso are Rome’s historic neighborhoods and monuments, dating from the Renaissance to the present.  Major landmarks include the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, the Vittorio Emanuele Monument, many Bernini landmarks, Campo de’ Fiore, Villa Borghese and several important churches. Read more.

Join David in Italy in September

Check out this video, where David throws a coin into the Trevi Fountain for you so that you can see it in person this September. Sign up here and get $500 off.

 

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Rome: Vatican City

Rome: Vatican City

stPetersVatican City

David shares his tips on what to see when touring the Vatican.

The Grounds

The gardens on the Vatican grounds make up half of the 44 hectares of Vatican City and can be seen from the western side of the museum. On the grounds you will see lawns, woods, gardens, grottoes and fountains. Highlights of a visit to the gardens include: many rare trees, which were donated as gifts to the Vatican from countries around the world; a papal coat of arms made of flowers; a helipad, used by visiting bishops; the head gardener’s house, one of the few residential buildings in Vatican City; and a radio tower at the Marconi broadcast center, named for the scientist who set up the first Vatican broadcast for Pope Pius XI in 1931. You can purchase tickets for a guided tour of the Gardens.

The Courtyards

There are three courtyards enclosed by the Vatican museums. You will see nice views of them from the windows of the various galleries. The Cortile del Belvedere is on the southern end of the museum. It was designed by Bramante in 1503 to connect the two palaces at the north and south ends of what are now the Vatican Museums. The Cortile della Biblioteca is in the center of the museum and was created when Pope Sixtus V built the library across the courtyard. The Cortile della Pigna is at the northern end of the museum. It was also originally part of the Cortile del Belvedere. It is named after the large pinecone (la pigna) at the northern end. It is 13 feet tall and was cast out of bronze in the 1st or 2nd century AD. The pinecone was originally part of a fountain, then moved to the medieval St. Peter’s Basilica, and finally placed at its current location in 1608 when the church was rebuilt.

In the center of the courtyard is the Sfera con Sfera, or Sphere within a Sphere, created in 1990. The sphere has been a feature of Arnaldo Pomodoro’s work since the 1960s, and similar works can be found at the United Nations plaza in New York, the University of California at Berkeley, the Museum of Contemporary Art in Tehran, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Rome, and Trinity College in Dublin. The spheres have inspired many conspiracy theories, but most believe they are meant to symbolize the fragility and complexity of the world. From the courtyard you also have an excellent view of the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica.

Pio Clementino Museum

You will start your visit in the Pio Clementino Museum, which is named after the two popes who oversaw its foundation in the 18th century, Clement XIV and Pius VI. The original collection, belonging to Pope Julius II (1503-1513), was expanded and opened to the public. This is the heart of the classical sculpture collection housed in the Vatican Museums.

Pass through the Square Vestibule and enter the Octagonal Courtyard. The two major sculptures here, the Laocoön and the Belvedere Apollo, have been standing in the same locations since the 1500s. The Laocoön dates from around 40 BC. Laocoön was a priest of Apollo. During the Trojan War he warned his fellow Trojans about the Greek wooden horse so Athena and Poseidon, who were supporting the Greeks, sent two giant sea-serpents to kill Laocoön and his two sons. The Belvedere Apollo belonged to Cardinal Giuliano della Rovere before he was elected Pope as Julius II, and he brought it with him from his villa. The god Apollo seems to have just released an arrow from the bow which he originally carried in his left hand. The statue dates from the 2nd century AD and is considered to be a copy of an original bronze statue by Leochares dating from 300 BC.

Wind your way through the museum until you reach the Hall of the Muses. The statues in this room were greatly altered by 18th century restorers. Some of the statues did not originally depict muses and were modified to complete the nine personifications of the arts. The frescoes on the ceiling also depict Apollo and the Muses. The walls behind the statues originally provided landscape backgrounds for the statues, but they were painted over with the red paint in the 1800s. The Belvedere Torso dates from the 1st century BC and is signed by the Athenian sculptor Apollonius. Though there is much speculation as to the identity of the sculpture, the current theory is that it is the Greek hero Ajax contemplating suicide. During the Trojan War, Ajax was so upset when Achilles’ armor was given to Odysseus instead of him that he killed himself. The theory of the statue’s identity is based on the fact that his head is leanly sadly toward his right hand which was gripping the sword. Can you see it? There is also a statue of Bacchus, the god of wine, and a statue of Pan playing the flute.

Next you will enter the Round Hall. The architecture is reminiscent of the Pantheon, with niches to display the Roman-era statues. It is dominated by the huge oval bath at the center of the room, with a circumference of over 42 feet. It was likely used in a large public space in imperial Rome. The floor was artfully reassembled in the 18th century with mosaics dating from the 3rd century AD that were found in two different locations and moved here. The gilded bronze statue of Heracles (or Hercules) was discovered in 1864 beneath the courtyard of a palazzo. It was found buried in a trench and covered with a travertine slab. According to Roman custom, the statue was given a ritual burial with a sacrificial lamb because it had been struck by lightning. The statue shows Heracles leaning on his club with the skin of the Nemean lion draped over his arm. It is dated somewhere between the 1st and 3rd centuries AD.

Move on to the Greek Cross Hall. In the center of the floor there is a mosaic depicting a bust of Athena. The hall is dominated by the two sarcophagi. The Sarcophagus of St. Helena is believed to have held the remains of Helena, mother of Constantine, who died around 335 AD. It was brought to the Vatican in 1777. The sarcophagus is carved with military scenes of Roman soldiers on horseback and barbarian prisoners. The lid of the sarcophagus depicts cupids and victories holding garlands, with two lions at the very top. Scholars believe that the sarcophagus was originally made for a male family member, perhaps Helena’s husband or Constantine himself, given the military decoration. The Sarcophagus of Constantia was made to hold the remains of one of Emperor Constantine’s daughters, most likely Constantia who died in 354 AD. It is decorated on all four sides with garlands and grape vines, and cupids with grapes. Below there are two peacocks, a ram and a cupid with a garland. The lid is decorated with greenery as well.

As you continue upstairs you will enter the Gallery of the Candelabra, named for its massive marble candelabra. The statue of Artemis of Ephesus here is rather unique. The city of Ephesus was founded in what is now modern-day Turkey. The Ionian colonists substituted their Artemis for a local goddess, and the two eventually intertwined to create this version of Artemis. She is often depicted in a sarcophagus-like stance with outstretched arms and a tapered body, and always with the cluster of globules. Some say they represent breasts (as virgin Artemis was the symbol of fertility), but some argue that they represent bull testicles (as the local Ephesian goddess Cybele was associated with bull sacrifices). Be sure to look out the western windows for an impressive view of the Vatican Gardens.

From here you will move to the Gallery of Tapestries. This is a collection of 16th- and 17th-century tapestries. The Flemish tapestries were woven in Brussels by Pieter van Aelst’s school and based on drawings by Raphael’s students. On the other wall hang tapestries depicting the life of Pope Urban VIII.

Next is the Gallery of Maps. The gallery was commissioned by Pope Gregory XIII in 1580. The maps in this room were based on drawing by Ignazio Danti and it took him three years to complete the project. There are 40 panels which run the length of the gallery and map the entirety of the Italian peninsula, including Sardinia and Corsica. Italy was not unified at the time, so each panel features a different region.

The Raphael Rooms

Follow the building around to the southern edge and the Raphael Rooms. These rooms were used by Pope Julius II as his residence, and he commissioned Raphael and his school to do the paintings.

The first room is the Room of Constantine, which was designed to be used for receptions and official ceremonies. The walls depict pivotal scenes from Constantine’s life. Raphael died before the room was completed.

That is followed by the Room of Heliodorus. This room was used for private audiences with the pope. The paintings depict historical moments when faith was threatened to show God’s protection of the Church. The four scenes from the Old Testament on the ceiling were also painted by Raphael.

Next is the Room of the Segnatura. These are Raphael’s most famous frescoes and the first works he completed in the Vatican.  The room is named after the highest court of the Holy See, the “Segnatura Gratiae et Iustitiae,” which met in this room around the middle of the 16th century. Pope Julius II used it as a library and private office. The frescoes represent the three greatest aspects of the human spirit: truth (both theological and philosophical), goodness and beauty. The frescoes on the ceiling depict the allegorical figures of Theology, Philosophy, Justice and Poetry.

In the School of Athens, the greatest philosophers of ancient times are gathered together to share their ideas.  In the center, Plato is pointing up and Aristotle is to the right holding the book Ethics. Pythagoras is in the lower left. Diogenes is lying on the stairs. Euclid is on the right teaching geometry to his pupils. Zoroaster is holding the heavenly sphere and Ptolemy is holding the earthly sphere (he has his back to us). To their right is a man wearing a black hat – this is Raphael’ self-portrait.

Last is the Room of the Fire in the Borgo. The frescoes were commissioned later by Pope Leo X and depict scenes from the lives of Popes Leo III and IV.

The Sistine Chapel

Back downstairs you will enter the Sistine Chapel. The Chapel was named after Pope Sixtus IV, who had the building restored. The frescoes on the walls were painted by some of the greatest painters of the time, including Signorelli, Botticelli, Roselli, Ghirlandaio and Perugino. The 12 frescoes on the side walls follow the lives of Jesus and Moses. Between 1508 and 1512, Michelangelo painted the ceiling. The central stories in the middle of the ceiling depict the creation of the world and the fall of man. They are surrounded by other biblical figures and stories. Michelangelo also painted The Last Judgement on the altar wall, between 1536 and 1541. It shows the souls of the dead rising up to face God and those who are condemned being hurtled into Hell.

From the Sistine Chapel, you can exit to the left to head back to the museum entrance with the spiral staircase or you can exit to the right to enter St. Peter’s Basilica.

St. Peter’s Basilica

This is the heart of the Catholic Church, though it isn’t the official seat of the pope. A shrine was first erected here, at the site of St. Peter’s tomb, in the 2nd century. The first basilica was completed in 349 AD and commissioned by Constantine. In 1506, construction for the current basilica began under Pope Julius II, but it would take more than a century for the building to be completed. Many of the greatest architects from the Roman Renaissance and the Baroque periods played a part in its design. Bernini was most influential in the design of the interior and Michelangelo designed the dome.

The Interior

After much back and forth between the architects over the shorter Greek cross plan and the longer Latin cross plan, the basilica was eventually built on a Latin cross plan. The nave, or long part of the cross, is richly decorated with Baroque stuccos, mosaics, statues and marble columns. The basilica is 615 feet long. As you walk down the nave you will see markings on the floor that compare the length of St. Peter’s to other churches. The niches contain 39 statues of saints who were founders of various religious orders. The vaulted ceiling is decorated with gold stucco. The “paintings” that line the walls are actually mosaics. The pieces of glass are so small that they only appear to be paintings, and some are replicas of actual works.

The nave is lined with chapels, featuring many important religious works. In the first chapel on the right stands Michelangelo’s Pietà. He was only 24 when he completed this work, in 1499. It is the only work that he signed; his name appears on the belt. Most striking about this sculpture is Mary’s youthful, sweet face and Michelangelo’s gift for making stone look like flesh and capturing the folds in drapery. It has been protected by thick glass since an attack in 1972.

At the end of the line of chapels on the right is a statue of St. Peter in the nave. There is some controversy over the date of the statue, but most believe that it was made by Arnolfo di Cambio in the 13th century. The foot of the statue has been worn thin by the millions who have come to the Vatican on pilgrimages over the centuries to touch or kiss St. Peter’s foot.

There are four huge pilasters where the transept (or shorter part of the cross) meets the nave. The four statues represent important moments of the passion of Christ. The four Evangelists: Mark, Luke, John and Matthew are depicted on the four spaces between the arches. The papal altar, a plain slab of marble, stands in the middle of the church. It is located directly above the tomb of St. Peter in the grottoes below the basilica, where many other popes are buried. Only the pope is allowed to say mass here. Bernini’s Baldacchino, an extravagant Baroque canopy, stands above the altar at nearly 100 feet tall and weighing over 100,000 pounds. It was commissioned by Pope Urban VIII in 1624 to fill the empty space between the altar and the dome.

The 448-foot dome was designed by Michelangelo, but it was not completed until 1590. He worked on it until his death in 1564, when his pupil, Giacomo Della Porta, took over the work. The gold inscription at the base of the dome reads “You are Peter and on this rock I will build my Church, and I will give you the keys to heaven.” The drum of the dome alternates double columns with gabled windows. It is possible to climb to the top of the dome and out onto the rooftop for some stunning views of both the interior of the basilica and panoramas of Rome. In the transept, to the right of the altar is the monument to Pope Clement XIII, built in 1784 by Antonio Canova. To the left is the monument to Pope Alexander VII, Bernini’s last work in St. Peter’s completed in 1678.

In the apse behind the altar, is the chair (or throne) of St. Peter, or the Cathedra Petri in Latin. The wooden chair is placed inside a bronze casing designed by Bernini. The upholstery on the casing depicts Christ giving St. Peter the keys to heaven. The window above the chair portrays the Holy Spirit as a dove and is surrounded by a cloud of angels and cherubs.

The Exterior

The façade dates to 1614 and was designed by Carlo Maderno, who lengthened the basilica to create the Latin cross plan. The central window is known as the Benediction Loggia. It is from this balcony that the pope blesses the people gathered in the square on Easter and Christmas. The center bronze door is the Filarete Door, which dates to the 15th century and the old St. Peter’s. The entrance to the dome is on the far right.

St. Peter’s Square

St. Peter’s Square is partially enclosed by two colonnades designed by Bernini. The colonnades are made of four rows of columns, each 5 feet in diameter and 65 feet high. The 140 statues atop the colonnades depict former popes, martyrs, evangelists and other Christian figures and were added over a span of 40 years. Bernini constructed the colonnades between 1656 and 1667.

The marble disks on the ground mark the geometric foci of the square. Standing here, the rows of columns line up perfectly and only one row is visible. This is a testament to Bernini’s architectural genius. There are two fountains in the square. When facing the basilica, the Maderno Fountain is on the left. Pope Paul V commissioned Maderno to replace an older fountain at the site in 1612. He left the lower stone of the old fountain but redesigned the rest. The basin is decorated with steps and small columns and the pedestal on top with four scrolls of stone. The Bernini Fountain was commissioned by Pope Clement X. It took Bernini 10 years to complete it, from 1667 to 1677. To maintain the symmetry of the square, this fountain is an exact replica of the Maderno Fountain.

In the center of the square is an 84-foot ancient Egyptian obelisk. It was brought to Rome from Alexandria by Caligula in 37 AD. The obelisk was removed from the “Circus of Nero” in Rome and placed at the center of the square under Pope Sixtus V in 1586. Moving the obelisk required a workforce of about 900 men and almost 100 horses and took over a year to complete.

To read about sites in Ancient Rome, click here

To read about sites in Rome’s Baroque city center, click here.

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