Exploring Florence
A Brief History of Florence
The powerful Medici family ruled Florence for most of the 15th century. It was through their patronage that the great artists of the Renaissance literally chiseled themselves from the constraints of the Middle Ages into a new artistic beginning. It is impossible to visit Florence without exploring the art and architecture that shaped the Renaissance.
In the 13th and 14th centuries, many independent states varying in size, wealth, and government made up the area we know as Tuscany. In short, their foreign policy consisted largely of trying to gain as much territory as possible while preventing others from doing the same. Cosimo de Medici was a banker who carefully built up a complicated political machine that preserved the republican form of government while giving him almost dictatorial powers. During his rule from 1434-64, Florence prospered and was at peace with the other cities in Tuscany.
Lorenzo de Medici, Cosimo’s grandson, took over leadership in 1469 and ruled until 1492. Lorenzo the Magnificent, as he was known, was the most famous ruler of Florence. His patronage of art and education made Florence the cultural leader of the Renaissance in Italy.
Tourist Destinations
Piazza della Signoria
This square was considered to be the main political and civic center of Florence in the Middle Ages and Renaissance era. The square is flanked by the imposing Palazzo Vecchio, the Loggia della Signoria, several outdoor cafes, and lots of ART.
Palazzo Vecchio
The Palazzo Vecchio, noted for its soaring bell tower and impenetrable fortifications, was built during the Middle Ages. It was constructed in the Gothic style and its primary purpose was to provide refuge and housing for the city’s rulers. A century later, Cosimo I moved in and remodeled in the new Renaissance style. Notice the entrance is flanked by two grand statues leaving no doubt that the Medici’s were the cultural leaders of the day. On the left is a replica of Michelangelo’s David and on the right the Lion of Florence by Donatello. The originals stood here until 1873 when they were moved to an indoor location for protection. You can step inside the palace’s courtyard to get a free sample of the artistic beauty and political power the Medici’s must have possessed.
Loggia della Signoria
Constructed at the end of the 14th century, it originally served as a forum for public speech and debate. But later, when the Medici’s had more art than they knew what to do with, they turned it into an outdoor sculpture gallery. With the Renaissance came the end of 1,000 years of Europe wallowing in the grime and decay of the Dark Ages. Renaissance means “rebirth” and in Italy this idea was closely connected with the rebirth of that which was once the grandeur of classical Greece and Rome.
Many examples of this return to the classical arts are here in the Loggia. Giambologna’s: Rape of the Sabines from 1583 and Cellini’s masterpiece Perseus with the Head of Medusa (1545-54) are excellent examples. In these two works of art we can see the artists’ zeal for displaying the human figure as a whole in full three-dimensional perspectives. The figures look real! This is art simply for the sake of enjoyment. The Renaissance artists were appreciated, and it was assumed that great art is the product of individual “genius.” Cellini wrote in his Autobiography that when his bronze statue of Perseus was unveiled here in 1554 “on the instant of its exposure to view, a shout of boundless enthusiasm went up in commendation of my work, which consoled me not a little.”
Galleria Uffizi
Just around the corner from the Loggia and Palazzo Vecchio are the offices of the Republic. In the 15th and 16th centuries this building and courtyard would have been alive with government officials scurrying about conducting the business of the Republic. Today it’s known as the Galleria Uffizi (Uffizi is the Italian word for offices) and houses the world’s greatest collection of Florentine Renaissance paintings. The Galleria Uffizi is small and well organized. You could see the entire collection in about 2 hours. If you love painting or have more than a day in Florence, you should include a visit to the Uffizi in your tour planning. Famous works on display here include Madonna with Child and Two Angels by Filippo Lippi, Spring and The Birth of Venus by Botticelli, Doni Tondo (Michelangelo’s only painting in Florence), and Venus of Urbino by Titian.
These days, you can find artists peddling their masterpieces, unlicensed vendors selling worthless junk, and of course, tourists in the courtyard. During the peak season, entry can take hours without a reservation. However, with a little planning, you can avoid all this and go directly to the front of the line. Nowadays many museums, including the Uffizi, allow you to make a reservation online. Visit florenceart.it for complete details.
Ponte Vecchio
Since Roman times there has been a bridge here. The raging floodwaters of the Arno destroyed many of the earlier bridges, but this one has stood the test of time since the mid-1300’s. The Ponte Vecchio (old bridge in Italian) was constructed around 1340. The upper corridor and shops were added later in the 16th and 17th centuries. The Medici’s gave the shops on the bridge to local gold and silversmiths and they have occupied the space ever since. Today, a trip to Florence is not complete without a window-shopping stroll across the Ponte Vecchio, and although not cheap, the gold and silver here is top quality and sold at a fair price.
Via Calzaiuoli
This street connects the Piazza Signoria with the Piazza del Duomo. It is a pedestrian-friendly window-shopper’s delight. Here, lining the street, you’ll find posh and trendy shops, banks, street vendors, taxis, tourists, and locals out for a stroll. A turn in any direction will take you off the main tourist route and into Florence with a local flair.
Santa Maria del Fiore
Better known as the Duomo, it is the third-largest church in the Christian world. From here its multi-colored façade dominates the entire piazza…totally overwhelming your line of sight. The marble façade, quarried in nearby Carrara, was installed over the original brick and stone in the late 19th century. As awesome as it looks, it is not the focal point of the Piazza. Look up. The red-tiled dome is a marvel of the Renaissance. You see, construction of the Duomo began in 1296. That’s the Middle Ages, 150 years before the age of Renaissance thinking. Yet its architect designed it to be capped with a huge dome such as those seen in the ancient ruins of Rome.
By 1418 the cathedral walls and interior were complete. All that was left was to do was to put on a roof! The only problem was that no one knew how to approach the task. To get things moving the church leaders announced a competition offering cash payment for anyone who could devise a plan and model that could be put to use for the cathedral’s vault. Local boy, Filippo Brunelleschi, eventually won the competition and spent the next 16 years supervising the construction of the dome.
What we see here today are actually two domes. Brunelleschi’s design called for a “dome-within-a-dome” tied together with an intricate series of timbers, bricks, and mortar. But the results, as you can see here, are beautiful and have stood the test of time and nature. Brunelleschi’s dome became the model for all others. The domes of the US Capitol in Washington DC and St. Peter’s in Rome are built from the same design. When the great Michelangelo was commissioned to construct the dome of St. Peter’s in Rome, he said “I can build a larger dome, but none as beautiful as Brunelleschi’s dome in Florence.”
Inside the Cathedral
Often, especially in mid-morning, when the tour groups arrive, there is a waiting line to get inside. I’d suggest visiting the Duomo after lunch to avoid the crowds. Once inside, remember this cathedral was constructed during the Middle Ages using piers, arches, and vaults for support. This style, known as Gothic, was widely used throughout Europe. It’s not until the interior of the dome comes into view that you begin to realize just how innovative Brunelleschi’s design really was. Notice how the dark Gothic arches open up to the vast space covered by the dome. The light flows in through the lantern windows above and fills the place. The huge fresco on the dome’s interior is The Last Judgment by Vasari and Zuccari.
The Bell Tower
Back outside notice The Campanile, or bell tower, which was built earlier than the Dome. The commission was given to Giotto in 1334 but he died shortly afterward, and the work slowed down. The Gothic Campanile took until the end of the 14th century to complete. You can climb both the dome and Giotto’s tower for stunning views of the city and surrounding countryside. But you’ll have to do it on foot, as there are no elevators. To get to the top of Brunelleschi’s Dome you’ll climb 464 steps that traverse the passageways between the two domes. Giotto’s Tower is slightly shorter with only 414 steps, plus from here you’ll have Brunelleschi’s magnificent dome in view.
The Baptistry
Before leaving the Piazza del Duomo we need to take a look at one other member of the Church complex. When traveling in Europe you’ll notice that many churches south of the Alps have three distinct features: the church building proper, the bell tower, and the baptistery. The Baptistry of St. John is the oldest building on the square. Dating from the 13th century, it is octagonal in shape symbolizing the “eighth day,” the time of the Risen Christ. That time is beyond our earthly time which is measured in seven days. The interior is decorated with geometric designs and floor mosaics acquired from Islamic trade. The ceiling contains a huge medieval mosaic depicting yet another scene of the Last Judgment.
Most interesting are the Baptistery’s exterior bronze doors. You’ll remember that in the Middle Ages only the aristocracy and men of the Church were educated. The majority of people could not read or write, so the Church included visual aids to help the common man understand Biblical stories. The Baptistery’s exterior bronze doors are great examples.
The oldest doors, on the south, depict the life of John the Baptist, the patron Saint of Florence. Andrea Pisano fashioned these in the 1330s. Ghiberti beat out Brunelleschi for the commission for the north doors which depict the Life of Christ. However, the east doors are the most famous!
Michelangelo declared them worthy to be the Gates of Paradise upon seeing them for the first time. Fashioned by Ghiberti in 1425-52, they recall scenes from the Old Testament. Truly unique is the way in which Ghiberti designed the flat panels to appear three dimensional…what later became known as “perspective” was a forgotten artistic device until this time. Each panel tells more than one episode. Notice the “Story of Joseph” beginning with him being cast into the well by his brothers. Continuing, Joseph is sold to the merchants, Joseph being delivered to Pharaoh, Joseph interpreting Pharaoh’s dream, Pharaoh honoring Joseph, Jacob sending his sons to Egypt, Joseph recognizing his brothers and Joseph returning home.
Galleria dell’ Accademia
The Accademia museum’s most famous works are Michelangelo’s David and a set of unfinished sculptures known as the Prisoners. The museum itself is just a few blocks north of the Duomo. Understandably, the Accademia is a popular tourist attraction and comes with long lines and hours of wait time. As with the Uffizi Gallery, the Accademia also allows you to make reservations for a specific date and time.
The main gallery is filled with statues known as “the slaves” and “St Matthew.” These unfinished works of Michelangelo seem to depict the struggle between the marble and the artist’s attempt to set them free.
Michelangelo was just 29 when he began work on the chunk of marble that would eventually become the colossal David. He had recently been recognized for his talents in creating the famous Pieta now in St Peter’s Basilica in Rome. The Medici family commissioned the work, and upon its completion in 1503, it stood “guard” over the entrance to the Palazzo Vecchio on the Piazza della Signoria. David remained here for almost 375 years until it was moved in 1873 to its present location here in the Accademia.
Much has been written about this colossal work of art, but for me, it captures the true spirit of the Renaissance. Not since the times of the Greeks and Romans had anyone dared capture the human attributes of strength, determination, and emotion. In David, Michelangelo captures the physical emotion of a young man on a mission… to kill a giant and defeat the Philistine army.
Shopping
Luxury Boutiques
Via de’ Tornabuoni is the Fifth Avenue of Florence. You can find luxury boutiques from Ferragamo, Gucci, Versace, Hermes, Tiffany, Cartier and more. Take a stroll and check out the window displays.
Department Stores
La Rinascente is a six-story department store with a rooftop café that offers stunning panoramas. Piazza della Repubblica, 4. Open Monday-Saturday 9AM-10PM and Sunday 10:30AM-8:30PM
Markets
San Lorenzo Market is a great place to wander, shop, and haggle. It’s always packed with locals and tourists alike searching for bargains. Here you can find affordable leather goods, linens, crockery, clothing, and other odds and ends. The prices are soft and it’s customary to deal a bit. This outdoor market surrounds the Church of San Lorenzo, which is famous for being the Medici family parish church. Looking at the front façade here will help you imagine what the Duomo and Santa Croce looked like before the colorful marble was added in the 1800s. Around back, behind San Lorenzo Church, are the Chapel and the tombs of the Medici family. Here you’ll find lavishly decorated tombs sculpted by Michelangelo for the family.
Mercato Centrale is located in the neighborhood of the San Lorenzo Market. The Mercato Centrale is THE place to do your food shopping in Florence. Everyone from famed chefs to old grandmothers buys their food here. It is a destination that should not be missed! The main floor houses kiosks vending vegetables, meats, fish, wine, cheese, and any other food product. There are several food stalls that make fresh sandwiches and hot meals. My favorite is “Nerbone” offering pork sandwiches (porchetta), stewed beef & broth (bollito) and intestines with veggies (trippa). Located in the corner closest to the San Lorenzo Church. Open Monday-Saturday 07:00-14:00. The first floor (USA second floor) of the market has been totally revamped as an upscale foodie and wine place called Il Mercato Centrale. Here you can purchase gourmet foods to eat in or take away but stay a while and enjoy the new hip place to gather in Florence. Via dell’Ariento. Open every day, 10:00-midnight.
Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio is the city’s second-largest market, offering fresh food and various household items. You can buy fresh fruit and vegetables, cheeses, cold cuts, olives, bread and more. Piazza Ghiberti. Open Monday-Saturday 7:00-14:00.
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