This month with David McGuffin Exploring Europe
Featured Destination: Cruising Croatia’s Adriatic Coast
Behind the Scenes: Jamie and Leslie Beat the Heat and Enter the Kitchen
David’s Travel Tip: Turning Points Into a Plane Ticket to Europe
Featured Destination:
Cruising Croatia’s Adriatic Coast
Croatia has a way of sneaking up on people. Most of my travelers come in expecting pretty water and leave talking about the islands they’d never even heard of before — Vis, Mljet, Korčula — places that don’t show up on the postcards until you’ve actually been there.
That’s really the whole idea behind this one. Instead of bouncing between hotels, you spend eight days living aboard a small yacht that can slip into harbors the big cruise ships can’t touch. You wake up in a different corner of the Adriatic almost every morning.
We start in Dubrovnik, and if you’ve never walked those city walls or ridden the cable car up Srđ mountain for the view over the rooftops, that alone is worth the trip. From there, we work our way north — a swimming stop at the Elaphiti Islands, an afternoon in the walled village of Ston, tasting oysters that have been farmed in those waters since Roman times, then on to Mljet, the greenest island in the Adriatic, where legend has it Odysseus was held captive for seven years. You can walk to the salt lakes there, or just rent a kayak or bike and go explore on your own.
Korčula is next, Marco Polo’s hometown, with an Old Town laid out in a clever fishbone pattern that catches the sea breeze even on a hot afternoon. Then Vis, which spent decades as a closed military base and only opened to visitors in 1991, still feels wonderfully unspoiled because of it. One morning, we duck into the Blue Cave on nearby Biševo, where sunlight through an underwater opening turns the whole cave a brilliant blue. The weather has to cooperate for that one, but it’s a special sight when it works out.
Hvar is the liveliest stop on the trip — lavender fields, a Renaissance cathedral, and a town theatre from 1612, followed by an evening where the restaurants and bars run late into the night if that’s your speed. And on the way to our final stop in Trogir, we pull into Bol on the island of Brač for a swim at Zlatni Rat, the “Golden Horn” beach that’s shaped a little differently every time the wind and current shift it.
Here’s the part I’m most excited about: this time, we’re chartering the entire ship — the MV Seagull — exclusively for our Exploring Europe group. No sharing the boat with strangers, no working around another group’s schedule. Capacity tops out around 30, and while our group is likely to run a bit larger than what I’d normally take, that’s honestly not a problem on a ship this size. It’s a Premium Superior vessel, fully air-conditioned, with en-suite cabins, a sun deck for lounging between stops, a dedicated crew, and meals prepared onboard using local ingredients along the way. Unpack once, and the whole Adriatic comes to you.
Travel Tip:
Turning Points Into a Plane Ticket to Europe
My new Chase Sapphire Preferred card showed up in the mail this week, and I’ve already got a beach trip this weekend that’s going to put a nice dent in the $5,000 I need to spend to unlock the card’s current 100,000-point bonus. So while I’m busy earning my way toward it, I figured this was a good time to walk you through why I bothered to get the card in the first place and how those points can end up paying for a chunk of your own trip to Europe.
And right now, timing works in your favor. Chase is running a limited-time offer of 100,000 Ultimate Rewards points on the Sapphire Preferred after you spend $5,000 in the first three months — this is only the third time in the card’s 17-year history that they’ve gone this high, and it’s not something that sticks around long. For a $95 card, that’s a lot of points to start with.
Here’s the part that actually matters, though, and it’s the part most people miss: the points sitting in your account aren’t worth much until you move them somewhere useful. Chase lets you transfer Ultimate Rewards, mostly at a 1:1 ratio, to a handful of airline and hotel programs. For getting to Europe, the ones worth knowing about are Air France/KLM Flying Blue (Delta partners), British Airways Executive Club, and Iberia Plus if you’re headed into Spain or Portugal. Virgin Atlantic and Air Canada’s Aeroplan program are worth a look, too; people tend to overlook them, but they can unlock some surprisingly good seats on flights to Europe. On the hotel side, there are World of Hyatt, Marriott, and IHG — though Hyatt transfers dropped to a 4:3 ratio this year for new Preferred cardholders, so it’s not quite the deal it used to be.
One trick worth tucking away for once I’ve got points to play with: British Airways prices its short flights by distance, not by demand, so it’s a great way to hop between cities once you’re already in Europe. A quick flight from Madrid to Lisbon, for instance, can cost you a fraction of the points you’d expect.
None of this replaces good old-fashioned trip planning, but it does mean the flight that gets you to the start of your tour can cost you a lot less out of pocket. I’ve had travelers join me on tours like Best of France after booking their flight almost entirely on points. If you’ve got points piling up and aren’t sure where they’ll stretch the farthest for an upcoming trip to Europe, shoot me an email — I’m happy to talk it through.
Behind the Scenes:
Jamie and Leslie Beat the Heat and Enter the Kitchen
Jamie and Leslie just wrapped up our London, Paris, and Rome tour, and I’m happy to report all ten travelers came home delighted. However, they landed right in the middle of one of the worst heatwaves Europe has seen in decades. If you’re on the fence about this trip, our next London-Paris-Rome departure is mid-September, when things cool back down considerably, so keep that in mind.
Heat aside, Jamie and Leslie used the trip to try out a few things we haven’t done before, and two in particular are prime candidates to stick around for future tours.
First was a wine and cheese tasting in Montmartre, tucked into a stone-walled cellar with a local cheesemonger named Max. Leslie and Jamie worked their way through eight French cheeses and five wines, learning the region and story behind each pairing along the way — the kind of slow, unhurried afternoon that’s honestly perfect for a heat wave, since you’re sitting in a cool stone room instead of standing in the sun.
Then in Rome, they spent one afternoon in a hands-on pasta and tiramisu class near the Vatican, run by a local outfit that’s been doing this a long time and clearly knows what they’re doing — five stars, nearly two thousand reviews. The group rolled up their sleeves to make fresh ravioli and fettuccine from scratch, then tackled tiramisu for dessert, all washed down with a generous pour of wine. By the sound of it, there was flour everywhere and not a single complaint about it.
By all accounts, both were a hit, and they’re exactly the kind of small, local experiences I love adding into a tour once I know they are worth it. Look for both to appear as activities and free-time options on future Paris and Rome itineraries.
Read Leslie’s account of her wine and cheese experience.
Discounted Tours:
Three Trips, Three Ways to Save This Fall
The Best of London and Paris tour provides an opportunity to settle in and experience two of Europe’s major capital cities. Enjoy four nights in each city with freetime to do some exploring on your own.
The Best of London, Paris, and Rome tour provides an opportunity to settle in and experience three of Europe’s major capital cities. Enjoy four nights in each city with freetime to do some exploring on your own.
This one distills the country down to my favorite stops in Paris, Burgundy’s vineyards and cathedrals, the Loire Valley’s elegant châteaux, Brittany’s quaint villages, and Normandy’s Mont-Saint-Michel and D-Day beaches.
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