2. Destination Report – Freising, Germany
I ended up in Freising not because I wanted to, but because I had to be here with Charlotte (see above).
Now that I’m here, I can’t believe I’ve missed it for the 48 years I’ve been coming to Europe. This charming Bavarian town, located just north of the Munich Airport, is one of Bavaria’s oldest settlements with a history stretching back over 1,300 years. For most of that time, Freising was a powerful and independent prince-bishopric. The Bishop of Freising was more than just a religious leader. He also held significant secular power as a prince of the Holy Roman Empire. With this, the prince-bishop controlled lots of land and wielded political authority that made Freising a major ecclesiastical center in medieval Bavaria.
Domberg Hill, with the white twin spires of the Freising Cathedral, dominates the skyline for miles. Climbing or riding the funicular to the Freising Cathedral is a must. The cathedral (Dom St. Maria und St. Korbinian) is dripping with impressive Baroque art and architecture. Even if you’ve seen enough churches, this one warrants a look inside.
The town’s picturesque Altstadt (old town) is perfect for wandering, with colorful historic buildings, cozy beer gardens, and plenty of traditional and international restaurants. The city center is pedestrian-only and loaded with boutique shops, department stores, bookshops, banks, and pharmacies. Everything one needs to set up camp here for a few days.
Freising is also home to the
Weihenstephan Brewery, the world’s oldest continuously operating brewery, founded in 1040. I’m visiting here in December. So the outdoor biergarten is closed for the season, but the braüstube cellar and restaurant remain open throughout the year.
The nearby Isar River provides lovely walking and cycling paths, and if you’re interested in hops and brewing culture, the
Hallertau region—the world’s largest hop-growing area—is just a short drive away. Since you’re so close to Munich (about 30 minutes by S-Bahn), Freising makes an excellent base for exploring both the tranquil Bavarian countryside and the vibrant city.