Exploring Edinburgh

by Dawnielle Jacobson | Nov 7, 2019 | Destinations

Edinburgh, the second-largest city in Scotland, is its historic and cultural capital. Just a glance at the castle on the hill will tell you that this has always been an important city. Centuries after that castle was built, the English moved in and constructed a well-thought-out and “grid-planned” grand Georgian-era modern city.

The city is easy to organize and navigate on foot. The old medieval town, with its crooked cobbled streets, narrow alleys, steep stairs, and underground caves is flanked on either end by “royal” castles. The Royal Mile connects the Castle on the cliff with the Palace in the valley.

The Layout

The Old Town literally falls off the cliffs into what was once a swampy marsh. In the Age of Enlightenment, the English filled in the marsh transforming it into a beautiful city park. Today, Princes Street Gardens is a mecca for sun worshipers and dog walkers, and it’s a perfect way to dawdle away a few hours with people-watching. Alongside the park is the busy Waverly Train Station and an underground shopping center. Two bridges and a roadway, known as The Mound, span the gorge. It carries pedestrians and vehicles from the old town to the new town.

The New Town was built in the era of British history spanning the reigns of the Hanoverian Kings George I, II, III, and IV. This is roughly the period from 1714 to 1830, or some say 1837. Architecturally speaking, the style is similar to that of the neo-classical public monuments in Washington DC. Edinburgh’s Georgian city gleams with broad straight streets, elegant squares (similar to Savannah, Georgia), circular or oval promenades (called circuses), beautiful buildings with uniformed and symmetrical columns, and many other Neo-Classical construction designs dating from the era.

You’ll also see Victorian-era construction around Edinburgh (Glasgow and Oban too). The architectural style dates from the era of Queen Victoria (1837 –1901). You can recognize it by the “pointy” rebellion from the constraints of the previous neo-classical orderliness. This neo-gothic style features ornate spires, reddish-colored sandstone, and rounded turrets with pointed roofs, all blended with styles picked up from Middle Eastern and Asian influences.

Edinburgh Castle

Cost: £16.50. Open daily: April – September 09:30-18:00. October – March 09:30-17:00. Last entry is 45 minutes before closing.

This is the birthplace of Edinburgh. This hunk of lava was a perfect place from which to defend a growing Edinburgh. In the 11th century, the Scots began building a fortress here, which has stood as the symbol of the city for 1,300 years. Most of the buildings you see today date from recent history, where the castle has served as a military garrison. Be sure to get in on the 20-minute guided tour that starts hourly at the entry. One of the highlights is the Scottish Crown Jewels, tucked away in the massive vault.

The Crown Jewels have been a longtime symbol of pride. They were made in Edinburgh in 1540 and contain Scottish diamonds, gems, and gold (often said to be the gold of King Robert the Bruce). The Crown Jewels were last used to crown Charles II in 1651. When the Act of Union was handed down to the Scots in 1707, a portion of the “deal” was that the Scots could keep their Crown Jewels. The jewels remained hidden in Edinburgh for more than 100 years. They were rediscovered in 1818 by Sir Walter Scott. In 1999, the crown jewels were brought out of Edinburgh Castle for the first time in over 300 years for the opening of the Scottish Parliament.

The Stone of Scone (The Stone of Destiny) – This plain piece of rock (collected in the 9th century) sits next to the Crown Jewels and is the historic coronation stone of the ancient kings of Scotland. It was stolen by the English in 1296 and took up residence underneath the English coronation chair in London’s Westminster Abbey. Then in 1996 Queen Elizabeth II allowed the “Stone of Scone” to return to Scotland, with the condition that it make a journey to Westminster Abbey for all future English coronations. So, with a lot of hoopla, the Stone of Scone was returned to Edinburgh on St. Andrew’s Day, November 30, 1996. As you can imagine, it is a great source of pride!

Royal Palace was the fortified refuge of the Scottish royalty in times of war and during attacks. In times of peace and calm the royal family resided at the more comfortable Palace of Holyroodhouse at the foot of the hill.

The Great Hall was the palace’s great formal meeting room dating from the 16th and 17th centuries. It later became a hospital and barracks.

The Scottish National War Memorial commemorates the 149,000 Scottish soldiers lost in World War I, the further 58,000 lost in World War II, and the 800+ lost in British battles since WWII.

Saint Margaret’s Chapel is the oldest building in Edinburgh. It is dedicated to Queen Margaret who died here in 1093. She was later “sainted” in 1250. This chapel was built in 1130 and is in the Norman Romanesque style. Below the chapel is a wonderful panoramic view of Edinburgh. Crowds gather here for the 13:00 single canon and gun blasts that once served to give ships in the bay a common point by which to set their navigation and timepieces.

The War Museum of Scotland holds lots of interesting history. It is a bit different than the typical “guns and armor” museums throughout Europe. Take a quick look, or linger if you like. The museum closes one hour before the castle.

The Royal Mile

The Royal Mile is really a series of four different streets linking the Edinburgh Castle at the top and Palace Holyroodhouse at the bottom. Actually it is about a mile and an eighth, so when walking it, walk from top to bottom and take the bus back home. It is packed with shops, pubs, restaurants, cafes, lanes, and small squares. Along the Royal Mile you’ll encounter common streets, lanes, and alleys some of which are designated by unfamiliar terms. Perhaps you’ll find close which is nothing less than a small alley (usually running down the hill) between buildings. These closes date from the Middle Ages. Originally they had a door at the entrance that was “closed” at night. The close usually led to a court-yard. You might see several pends or arched gateways. A wynd is a narrow winding lane and a gate, well that means a street and I’m not sure of its origin.

The Castle Esplanade is at the top of the Royal Mile. It was created as a parade ground in the 1800s but today it is known for being the site of the Royal Military Tattoo – a spectacular “show” featuring military bands, pipes, drums, and royal regiments. The Tattoo is presented nightly in the month of August. You can join us on tour to see the Tattoo. More information here.

Saint Giles’ Cathedral is Scotland’s most important church. It features an ornate spire and “Scottish crown-shaped” steeple dating from 1495. Once inside, marvel at the stained glass windows (1995 by Leifur Breidfjord) dedicated to Robert Burns, Scotland’s famous poet. There is also a statue of John Knox, the great 16th-century Calvinist preacher who promoted reform and founded the Presbyterian movement in 1559. Knox’s insistence that every Scotsman should be able to read the word of God put Scotland more than 300 years ahead of the educational systems of Europe. The four massive central pillars date from 1120 and are the oldest structures in the church. Mason and DiVinci Code buffs will enjoy the Chapel of the Knights of the Thistle which is loaded with lots of veiled symbolism and ornately carved figures. Open M-F 09:00-19:00. Sat 09:00-17:00. Sun 13:00-17:00.

John Knox Gravesite is just behind St. Giles’. In keeping with his Calvinist beliefs, his grave is unmarked, under the parking lot, at spot #23. Don’t confuse him with the nearby statue of King Charles II on his horse.

The Old Parliament House is on the same parking lot. It is now the civil court building, so you’ll have to go through security to see the 1639 Grand Hall and stained glass. It was in use until 1707 when the English dissolved the parliament with the Act of Union.

The Mercat Cross is located in the square near St. Giles’. This column, topped by a white unicorn, has been the site for royal proclamations since the 14th century.

The World’s End marks a spot halfway down the Royal Mile where a wall designated the end of Edinburgh and the beginning of Canongate. Canongate was a community related to Holyrood Palace down at the foot of the hill. The wall was located where Mary Street and Jeffery Street cross the Royal Mile. Notice the names change from High Street to Canongate. You can find some brass brick marking this former wall (the original wall was demolished in 1764). Look down Mary Street, about 200 yards and you can see a portion of the former wall.

If you are into whiskey, the Cadenhead Whisky Shop (not a tourist sight) was founded in 1842 and prides itself on bottling good whiskey from casks, straight from the distilleries. No additives and no mass-produced marketing. There is loads of information at the shop. You can ask for a sample, but do plan to buy a bottle, eventually. It is located just beyond the World’s End “wall” on Canongate.

The Scottish Parliament Building is located on the right at the bottom of the Royal Mile. Scotland was granted a parliament in 1998. In 2004, this building was dedicated—the first Scottish Parliament since 1707! Scotland now enjoys Home Rule and is looking for independence. It is worth a look. You can go in on weekdays. Pass through security and find the visitor’s desk. You can visit the public parts of the building including the “debating chambers.”

The Palace of Holyroodhouse is at the bottom of the Royal Mile. It was originally a 12th-century Augustine Abbey named for a portion of the “cross” brought here by Queen Margaret, later Saint Margaret. This has marked the end of the “Royal Mile” since the 14th century. Scotland’s royals preferred living down the hill, in the valley, instead of up at the blustery cold castle. Thus a “palace” has evolved over time in this location. You can visit here if the Queen (of England) is not in. It costs about £15. Be sure to get the included audio guide.

Up Top Near the Castle and Off the Royal Mile

The National Museum of Scotland is free and well worth two hours of your time as it chronicles the history of Scotland in photos, exhibits, and realistic displays. Start in the basement and work your way through history! If you are into history, this will put Scotland (and England) into perspective. There is a very good restaurant on the top floor offering good food AND great views of the city. Free and Open daily 10:00-17:00.

Greyfriars Bobby is across the street from the National Museum. A story about a man and his dog that will bring a tear to everyone’s eye.

The Grassmarket is down in the valley from the Royal Mile. As its name implies, Grassmarket was originally the pastures and stables of Edinburgh. Later it was the site for hangings. Locals actually rented out their windows so all could get a good view of the “drop.” Today, it is a chic, “in” place to visit. It’s a lively town square popular at lunch and in the evenings with pubs, restaurants, and clubs.

Want to explore Edinburgh for yourself?

We hope you’ll join us on one of our tours to Scotland: the Best of Scotland and Wales or Scotland and the Military Tattoo.

Exploring Florence

by Dawnielle Jacobson | Oct 15, 2019 | Destinations

A Brief History of Florence

The powerful Medici family ruled Florence for most of the 15th century. It was through their patronage that the great artists of the Renaissance literally chiseled themselves from the constraints of the Middle Ages into a new artistic beginning. It is impossible to visit Florence without exploring the art and architecture that shaped the Renaissance.

In the 13th and 14th centuries, many independent states varying in size, wealth, and government made up the area we know as Tuscany. In short, their foreign policy consisted largely of trying to gain as much territory as possible while preventing others from doing the same. Cosimo de Medici was a banker who carefully built up a complicated political machine that preserved the republican form of government while giving him almost dictatorial powers. During his rule from 1434-64, Florence prospered and was at peace with the other cities in Tuscany.

Lorenzo de Medici, Cosimo’s grandson, took over leadership in 1469 and ruled until 1492. Lorenzo the Magnificent, as he was known, was the most famous ruler of Florence. His patronage of art and education made Florence the cultural leader of the Renaissance in Italy.

Tourist Destinations

Piazza della Signoria

This square was considered to be the main political and civic center of Florence in the Middle Ages and Renaissance era. The square is flanked by the imposing Palazzo Vecchio, the Loggia della Signoria, several outdoor cafes, and lots of ART.

Palazzo Vecchio

The Palazzo Vecchio, noted for its soaring bell tower and impenetrable fortifications, was built during the Middle Ages. It was constructed in the Gothic style and its primary purpose was to provide refuge and housing for the city’s rulers. A century later, Cosimo I moved in and remodeled in the new Renaissance style. Notice the entrance is flanked by two grand statues leaving no doubt that the Medici’s were the cultural leaders of the day. On the left is a replica of Michelangelo’s David and on the right the Lion of Florence by Donatello. The originals stood here until 1873 when they were moved to an indoor location for protection. You can step inside the palace’s courtyard to get a free sample of the artistic beauty and political power the Medici’s must have possessed.

Loggia della Signoria

Constructed at the end of the 14th century, it originally served as a forum for public speech and debate. But later, when the Medici’s had more art than they knew what to do with, they turned it into an outdoor sculpture gallery. With the Renaissance came the end of 1,000 years of Europe wallowing in the grime and decay of the Dark Ages. Renaissance means “rebirth” and in Italy this idea was closely connected with the rebirth of that which was once the grandeur of classical Greece and Rome.

Many examples of this return to the classical arts are here in the Loggia. Giambologna’s: Rape of the Sabines from 1583 and Cellini’s masterpiece Perseus with the Head of Medusa (1545-54) are excellent examples. In these two works of art we can see the artists’ zeal for displaying the human figure as a whole in full three-dimensional perspectives. The figures look real! This is art simply for the sake of enjoyment. The Renaissance artists were appreciated, and it was assumed that great art is the product of individual “genius.” Cellini wrote in his Autobiography that when his bronze statue of Perseus was unveiled here in 1554 “on the instant of its exposure to view, a shout of boundless enthusiasm went up in commendation of my work, which consoled me not a little.”

Galleria Uffizi

Just around the corner from the Loggia and Palazzo Vecchio are the offices of the Republic. In the 15th and 16th centuries this building and courtyard would have been alive with government officials scurrying about conducting the business of the Republic. Today it’s known as the Galleria Uffizi (Uffizi is the Italian word for offices) and houses the world’s greatest collection of Florentine Renaissance paintings. The Galleria Uffizi is small and well organized. You could see the entire collection in about 2 hours. If you love painting or have more than a day in Florence, you should include a visit to the Uffizi in your tour planning. Famous works on display here include Madonna with Child and Two Angels by Filippo Lippi, Spring and The Birth of Venus by Botticelli, Doni Tondo (Michelangelo’s only painting in Florence), and Venus of Urbino by Titian.

These days, you can find artists peddling their masterpieces, unlicensed vendors selling worthless junk, and of course, tourists in the courtyard. During the peak season, entry can take hours without a reservation. However, with a little planning, you can avoid all this and go directly to the front of the line. Nowadays many museums, including the Uffizi, allow you to make a reservation online. Visit florenceart.it for complete details.   

Ponte Vecchio

Since Roman times there has been a bridge here. The raging floodwaters of the Arno destroyed many of the earlier bridges, but this one has stood the test of time since the mid-1300’s. The Ponte Vecchio (old bridge in Italian) was constructed around 1340. The upper corridor and shops were added later in the 16th and 17th centuries. The Medici’s gave the shops on the bridge to local gold and silversmiths and they have occupied the space ever since. Today, a trip to Florence is not complete without a window-shopping stroll across the Ponte Vecchio, and although not cheap, the gold and silver here is top quality and sold at a fair price.

Via Calzaiuoli

This street connects the Piazza Signoria with the Piazza del Duomo. It is a pedestrian-friendly window-shopper’s delight. Here, lining the street, you’ll find posh and trendy shops, banks, street vendors, taxis, tourists, and locals out for a stroll. A turn in any direction will take you off the main tourist route and into Florence with a local flair.

Santa Maria del Fiore

Better known as the Duomo, it is the third-largest church in the Christian world. From here its multi-colored façade dominates the entire piazza…totally overwhelming your line of sight. The marble façade, quarried in nearby Carrara, was installed over the original brick and stone in the late 19th century. As awesome as it looks, it is not the focal point of the Piazza. Look up. The red-tiled dome is a marvel of the Renaissance. You see, construction of the Duomo began in 1296. That’s the Middle Ages, 150 years before the age of Renaissance thinking. Yet its architect designed it to be capped with a huge dome such as those seen in the ancient ruins of Rome.

By 1418 the cathedral walls and interior were complete. All that was left was to do was to put on a roof! The only problem was that no one knew how to approach the task. To get things moving the church leaders announced a competition offering cash payment for anyone who could devise a plan and model that could be put to use for the cathedral’s vault. Local boy, Filippo Brunelleschi, eventually won the competition and spent the next 16 years supervising the construction of the dome.

What we see here today are actually two domes. Brunelleschi’s design called for a “dome-within-a-dome” tied together with an intricate series of timbers, bricks, and mortar. But the results, as you can see here, are beautiful and have stood the test of time and nature. Brunelleschi’s dome became the model for all others. The domes of the US Capitol in Washington DC and St. Peter’s in Rome are built from the same design. When the great Michelangelo was commissioned to construct the dome of St. Peter’s in Rome, he said “I can build a larger dome, but none as beautiful as Brunelleschi’s dome in Florence.”

Inside the Cathedral

Often, especially in mid-morning, when the tour groups arrive, there is a waiting line to get inside. I’d suggest visiting the Duomo after lunch to avoid the crowds. Once inside, remember this cathedral was constructed during the Middle Ages using piers, arches, and vaults for support. This style, known as Gothic, was widely used throughout Europe. It’s not until the interior of the dome comes into view that you begin to realize just how innovative Brunelleschi’s design really was. Notice how the dark Gothic arches open up to the vast space covered by the dome. The light flows in through the lantern windows above and fills the place. The huge fresco on the dome’s interior is The Last Judgment by Vasari and Zuccari.

The Bell Tower

Back outside notice The Campanile, or bell tower, which was built earlier than the Dome. The commission was given to Giotto in 1334 but he died shortly afterward, and the work slowed down. The Gothic Campanile took until the end of the 14th century to complete. You can climb both the dome and Giotto’s tower for stunning views of the city and surrounding countryside. But you’ll have to do it on foot, as there are no elevators. To get to the top of Brunelleschi’s Dome you’ll climb 464 steps that traverse the passageways between the two domes. Giotto’s Tower is slightly shorter with only 414 steps, plus from here you’ll have Brunelleschi’s magnificent dome in view.

The Baptistry

Before leaving the Piazza del Duomo we need to take a look at one other member of the Church complex. When traveling in Europe you’ll notice that many churches south of the Alps have three distinct features: the church building proper, the bell tower, and the baptistery. The Baptistry of St. John is the oldest building on the square. Dating from the 13th century, it is octagonal in shape symbolizing the “eighth day,” the time of the Risen Christ. That time is beyond our earthly time which is measured in seven days. The interior is decorated with geometric designs and floor mosaics acquired from Islamic trade. The ceiling contains a huge medieval mosaic depicting yet another scene of the Last Judgment.

Most interesting are the Baptistery’s exterior bronze doors. You’ll remember that in the Middle Ages only the aristocracy and men of the Church were educated. The majority of people could not read or write, so the Church included visual aids to help the common man understand Biblical stories. The Baptistery’s exterior bronze doors are great examples.

The oldest doors, on the south, depict the life of John the Baptist, the patron Saint of Florence. Andrea Pisano fashioned these in the 1330s. Ghiberti beat out Brunelleschi for the commission for the north doors which depict the Life of Christ. However, the east doors are the most famous!

Michelangelo declared them worthy to be the Gates of Paradise upon seeing them for the first time. Fashioned by Ghiberti in 1425-52, they recall scenes from the Old Testament. Truly unique is the way in which Ghiberti designed the flat panels to appear three dimensional…what later became known as “perspective” was a forgotten artistic device until this time. Each panel tells more than one episode. Notice the “Story of Joseph” beginning with him being cast into the well by his brothers. Continuing, Joseph is sold to the merchants, Joseph being delivered to Pharaoh, Joseph interpreting Pharaoh’s dream, Pharaoh honoring Joseph, Jacob sending his sons to Egypt, Joseph recognizing his brothers and Joseph returning home.

Galleria dell’ Accademia

The Accademia museum’s most famous works are Michelangelo’s David and a set of unfinished sculptures known as the Prisoners. The museum itself is just a few blocks north of the Duomo. Understandably, the Accademia is a popular tourist attraction and comes with long lines and hours of wait time. As with the Uffizi Gallery, the Accademia also allows you to make reservations for a specific date and time.

The main gallery is filled with statues known as “the slaves” and “St Matthew.” These unfinished works of Michelangelo seem to depict the struggle between the marble and the artist’s attempt to set them free.

Michelangelo was just 29 when he began work on the chunk of marble that would eventually become the colossal David. He had recently been recognized for his talents in creating the famous Pieta now in St Peter’s Basilica in Rome. The Medici family commissioned the work, and upon its completion in 1503, it stood “guard” over the entrance to the Palazzo Vecchio on the Piazza della Signoria. David remained here for almost 375 years until it was moved in 1873 to its present location here in the Accademia.

Much has been written about this colossal work of art, but for me, it captures the true spirit of the Renaissance. Not since the times of the Greeks and Romans had anyone dared capture the human attributes of strength, determination, and emotion. In David, Michelangelo captures the physical emotion of a young man on a mission… to kill a giant and defeat the Philistine army.

Shopping

Luxury Boutiques

Via de’ Tornabuoni is the Fifth Avenue of Florence. You can find luxury boutiques from Ferragamo, Gucci, Versace, Hermes, Tiffany, Cartier and more. Take a stroll and check out the window displays.

Department Stores

La Rinascente is a six-story department store with a rooftop café that offers stunning panoramas. Piazza della Repubblica, 4. Open Monday-Saturday 9AM-10PM and Sunday 10:30AM-8:30PM

Markets

San Lorenzo Market is a great place to wander, shop, and haggle. It’s always packed with locals and tourists alike searching for bargains. Here you can find affordable leather goods, linens, crockery, clothing, and other odds and ends. The prices are soft and it’s customary to deal a bit. This outdoor market surrounds the Church of San Lorenzo, which is famous for being the Medici family parish church. Looking at the front façade here will help you imagine what the Duomo and Santa Croce looked like before the colorful marble was added in the 1800s. Around back, behind San Lorenzo Church, are the Chapel and the tombs of the Medici family. Here you’ll find lavishly decorated tombs sculpted by Michelangelo for the family.

Mercato Centrale is located in the neighborhood of the San Lorenzo Market. The Mercato Centrale is THE place to do your food shopping in Florence. Everyone from famed chefs to old grandmothers buys their food here. It is a destination that should not be missed! The main floor houses kiosks vending vegetables, meats, fish, wine, cheese, and any other food product. There are several food stalls that make fresh sandwiches and hot meals. My favorite is “Nerbone” offering pork sandwiches (porchetta), stewed beef & broth (bollito) and intestines with veggies (trippa). Located in the corner closest to the San Lorenzo Church. Open Monday-Saturday 07:00-14:00. The first floor (USA second floor) of the market has been totally revamped as an upscale foodie and wine place called Il Mercato Centrale. Here you can purchase gourmet foods to eat in or take away but stay a while and enjoy the new hip place to gather in Florence. Via dell’Ariento. Open every day, 10:00-midnight.

Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio is the city’s second-largest market, offering fresh food and various household items. You can buy fresh fruit and vegetables, cheeses, cold cuts, olives, bread and more. Piazza Ghiberti. Open Monday-Saturday 7:00-14:00.

Join us on tour

Ready to kick back, relax and enjoy Florence? Join David on the Essence of Italy, Best of Italy or the Tuscan Villa Vacation tour.

Exploring Volterra

by Dawnielle Jacobson | Aug 23, 2019 | Destinations

Volterra’s History

Volterra has been around a long time. The first evidence of a settlement in the area was during the Neolithic Age when settlers moved from “low ground” to the more defensible “high ground” of Volterra. The town sits on a hill about 540 meters above sea level, making it one of the highest spots in Tuscany. Beginning in the 8th century BC there is evidence that the Etruscans settled here and founded the town as Velethri. It eventually became one of the twelve city-states of Etruria and by the 4th century BC, a great stone wall was constructed to fortify the city.

As you walk through the town today, notice all the references to the Etruscans: hotels are named for them, there is a museum dedicated to them, the artisan near the Roman theatre fashions jewelry after Etruscan artifacts, and the great stone gate, Porta all’ Arco, dates from the Etruscan era.

Later came the Romans, then the Florentines, and finally the tourists.

What to see in Volterra 

Piazza Martiri della Libertà

Most likely, this busy square will be your first look at Volterra. It is here all vehicular traffic halts and the town becomes a pedestrian-friendly zone. Tour buses and regional buses stop here as well.

There is a handy, but costly, multi-storied parking garage buried into the hill below the piazza. (Parking € 1.50 /hr. or € 11/ 24 hr. Additional parking is located outside the town walls with steep walks to the city center).

Much of the information contained here has been gleaned from numerous visits and guided walks with my friend and local resident, Annie Adare. Annie showed up in Volterra some years ago, fell in love with the place, decided to stay, and, eventually, fell in love with a local young man as well. She and Francesco married, have two wonderful children, and live just outside the town walls. Through their agency, Tuscan Tour, they arrange American weddings and guided tours of Volterra and the surrounding countryside. Read more about it on their website. 

Porta all’ Arco (Etruscan Arch)

This massive, yet eroded, arch was originally constructed in the 4th century BC as one of many entrance gates into the city.

Notice the oldest stones resemble those that can be seen throughout Italy, like in the Colosseum in Rome. This stone is known as tuffa and is found all over the Italian peninsula. Essentially, the stone is a result of volcanic eruptions where water, lava, and ash meld together to form these huge chunks.

The three almost indistinguishable heads were placed in the tuffa stone arch in the 1st century BC, more than 2,000 years ago! The other more uniform stones date from the 13th century when the Etruscan walls were incorporated into some of the newer fortifications. Many believe this is the only remaining Etruscan round arch with a keystone in place. Many local experts believe the Romans used this arch as the model for their rounded arch and keystone construction technique, which can be seen almost anywhere in the former Empire.

Not only is the Porta all’ Arco famous as an ancient relic, but it also has a WWII connection. It seems that on June 30, 1944, Nazi forces were planning to blow up the arch to slow down the advancing Allied forces. Heartbroken Volterrans quickly conceived a plan to avoid the travesty by ripping up all the stones that paved the via Porta all’ Arco and using them to plug up the gate. Hence, they were able to convince the German commander that the now unusable gate was no longer a threat.

Palazzo dei Priori (City Hall)

Back in the Middle Ages, when Volterra was an independent city-state, it held no allegiance to a pope, an emperor, or other city-states. Therefore, it was important to put their unique “stamp” on things in the form of ornate public buildings.

Volterra’s City Hall, constructed around 1209, was just such a structure. It served as a fortress, a palace, the court, and a public hall of records for centuries. It is believed to be the oldest of any Tuscan city-state and to have served as the model for the famous Palazzo Vecchio in Florence.

The many coats-of-arms embedded in the palace walls chronicle the ruling families of Volterra, dating back a thousand years.

The horizontal “staff” carved into the wall, near the doorway, served as the official “rule” or yardstick for Volterrans who gathered in the palace courtyard to conduct trade.

For €1, it is possible to visit the city council chambers (when not in use) to experience the opulently painted room and its dragon light fixtures.

Il Duomo (La Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta)

You can see a portion of the Duomo from the Piazza dei Priori, just to the right of City Hall. There are horizontal black and white stripes on the rear façade, where a little doorway often opens into the Duomo.

To get the full experience of the Cathedral, walk around the block and enter from the cathedral square. The present Cathedral was completed in 1120 and dedicated to Mary and her Assumption into Heaven.

Before entering, look around the square. Here you will find a typical Italian arrangement of a bell tower, a baptistery, and the church. As in Pisa, Florence, Siena, and other towns, this was important because people could not enter the church without being baptized. Hence, a newborn would enter the baptistery from the western door, participate in baptism, exit through the east door, enter the church through the west doors, and finally, participate in worship facing the altar on the eastern end of the cathedral.

CHURCH

The entrance is flanked by two solid marble columns supporting a rounded arch. Higher up, more decorative marble is strategically placed to add detail and ornamentation to the austere stone façade.

Stepping inside, notice the highly polished granite columns symmetrically supporting decorative round arches. In contrast, the floor provides an array of geometrical shapes tying together the interior. Although the cathedral was constructed in the 12th-century Romanesque style, much of the interior dates from a remodeling job completed in the late 16th century by the Florentine Medici family. The ornate and highly decorative gilded ceiling depicts the Assumption. 

Notice the various coats of arms from Volterra families and that of the Medici (the Medici coat of arms contains six “pills” representing their original profession as doctors or medici).

The chapel to the left of the entry door houses several richly painted statues depicting Biblical scenes. They are hundreds of years ahead in their artistic development.

The Rosary Chapel is on the left, just before the Pulpit. The painting is by Fra Bartholomew, completed in 1497. It depicts the Annunciation. Take note of the rich colors and attention to detail, especially in the Virgin Mary.

The ornately carved Pulpit was completed in the 12th century. Its carved scenes detail Jesus’ Last Supper. All the disciples are present, although Judas is down under the table with an evil spirit.

To the right of the altar is the Chapel of the Deposition. Here, richly painted wooden figures depict the removal of Jesus from the cross in three-dimensional form. This work, completed in 1228, is an amazingly realistic representation that shows action and emotion in the figures. It was centuries ahead of its time.

The incandescent windows above the altar, instead of the typical stained glass, are actually made of sheets of alabaster.

BAPTISTERY

The Baptistery is constructed on an octagonal base and dates to the 12th century. The façade consists of the characteristic green and white stripes of marble. There are few decorations inside, but there are two baptismal fonts. The one in the center is by Vaccà in 1760. The octagonal font in the corner is by Sasovino (1502) and depicts the baptism of Christ, with the virtues of Faith, Hope, Charity, and Justice.

TOWER

The bell tower was built in 1493 after the original one collapsed. There is an inscription around the base that recalls this fact.

Museo Etrusco Guarnacci (Etruscan Museum)

The museum houses a treasure trove of Etruscan artifacts tucked away in “old school” display cases. This is the perfect example of artwork that is stashed away and only available for those who take the extra effort to go out of their way (to Volterra) for the experience. Often dusty and neglected, the artifacts chronicle the history of the Etruscan culture dating from 1500 BC.

There is very little English explanation, but you don’t really need it to appreciate the works.

Perhaps the most famous work of art is Ombra della sera (Shadow of the evening), pictured here. This bronze statue has come to symbolize Etruscan society.

Just as important are the numerous funeral urns which were designed to contain the ashes of loved ones who passed away. Each urn is carved with a scene specific to the deceased in hopes that it would present the gods with a favorable impression on their life on Earth.

The museum also contains loads of finely crafted jewelry designed to adorn the Etruscan people. Evidently, they had good taste and plenty of gold with which to work! The artisan on the road above the Roman theater handcrafts fine replicas of the jewelry.

Palazzo Viti

The palace offers an authentic look into the private residence of the nobility. Twelve rooms display ornate decorations, frescoes, fine woven rugs, collectibles, and furniture from the 15th through 20th centuries. The palazzo is actually occupied by the Viti family, so it has a “live-in” appeal. Many say this is the finest residential building in Italy.

Teatro Romana (Roman Theater)

Until the 1950s, this Roman theater and adjacent baths were covered in a pile of dirt, garbage, and debris that had accumulated in the 1,500 years since the fall of Rome. 

The story goes that in the 1950s, a local resident noticed the rounded indention in the Middle-Ages-era wall and sought funding and permission from the government to excavate.  The government, bound by bureaucracy, gave permission to dig but offered no funding. It just so happened the local resident had an association with the “mental hospital” occupying the old Medici-era fortress, so he commissioned the patients to dig at no cost to anyone.  The result of their labors revealed the perfectly preserved 1st-century BC teatro and 3rd-century AD Roman baths.

The theatre stage is typical Roman design with three levels from which the actors would appear: level 1 for mortals, level 2 for heroes, and level 3 (at the top) for gods.  All Roman theatre-goers knew this design, and thus, the playwright had an easy way to present the cast to the audience.

View the Teatro for Free

Via Lungo le Mure runs atop the Middle Ages-era wall, just above the Roman Theatre.  From here, you will have a great view of the ancient Roman ruins and the surrounding countryside to the north.  This is also a great place to enjoy a glass of wine, a moonlit evening, and the quiet side of Tuscany.  No wild after-hours parties! All is quiet in Volterra after 21:00. Go to La Vena di Vino if you want to kick up a ruckus.

Also, from here you can see portions of the four-mile Etruscan city wall, dating from the 4th century BC.  Look to the left and find the distant church, then notice the stone (wall) just below.  These are traces of the Etruscan wall that encircled Volterra and the surrounding valley fields more than 2,500 years ago.  

The Importance of stone

Look anywhere in Volterra and you will find stone. The streets, palaces, churches, and city walls are made of it. Upon close inspection, you’ll find little seashells embedded into this unique stone known as panchino. Volterra, on the western frontier of Tuscany, has always been isolated from society and had to make do with what they had.

Alabaster

Early on, alabastro (alabaster) was discovered in and around Volterra. Previously, this stone was known only in Egypt around the town of Alabastron, famous for antique vases and perfume bottles. Once it was discovered in Volterra, the local craftsmen began duplicating the ancient relics from Egypt.

The alabaster of Volterra is known as chalky alabaster and is particularly soft and easy to carve. It comes out of the ground as a white chunk of stone that is eventually divided into smaller pieces. The Etruscans used only the best alabaster to carve funerary urns and sarcophagi decorated with ornate imagery of the deceased, scenes from their daily life and imaginary journeys beyond the tomb. The Etruscan craftsmen colored the white alabaster with minerals, turning them into richly colored and decorated works of art.

Apparently, the use of alabaster dropped out of vogue during the Middle Ages and Renaissance. It was not until the 17th century that it once again gained popularity. By the 18th century, Volterra’s alabaster was world-famous. According to records, there were sixty alabaster workshops in little Volterra.

Today, even though alabaster does not play an important role in world art, craftsmen still thrive in Volterra. You will find several workshops managed by aged craftsmen passing down their trade to future generations. There are several alabaster workshops in Volterra. All welcome visitors and are happy to have you watch as they sculpt and work the raw alabaster stone.

My favorite is Alab’Arte (gallery and showroom) where alabaster is crafted by locals Roberto Chiti and Giorgio Finazzo. Alab’Arte is just across the street from the Etruscan Museum. Their real-live workshop is across the street and down the hill at the Porta Marcoli. Stop in and watch them in action!

The best places to grab a drink and a meal

La Vena di Vino (The Vein of Wine)

Some years ago, my friends introduced me to this unique wine bar. That first night, I was instantly welcomed by owners Bruno and Lucio and a cast of characters from the town. We spent the evening drinking wine and grappa, singing karaoke, and trying out our Italian and English on each other. Since that night, I’ve held a bond of friendship with the folks I met at this unique enoteca.

Each day, Bruno and Lucio open a few bottles of good Tuscan wine and serve it up with tasty antipasti. Decorating the ceiling is a 1960s vintage Volkswagen Beetle. Downstairs is a vintage dentist’s chair from which one can belt out karaoke to the roaring crowd. This is THE place to hang out, especially in the late evening when the rest of the town sleeps.

Doors are open every day, except Tuesdays, from 11:00-1:00. Wine by the glass runs about €6-€8. Hot food, Italian-cured meats, and antipasti are served all day.

Via Don Minzoni, 30. Tel. 0588 81491. www.lavenadivino.com

Ristorante Enoteca Del Duca

On my first visit to Volterra, yes, the one mentioned above, I discovered Enoteca Del Duca. The evening began with us sitting down for dinner in the formal dining room, and owner/chef, Genuino, arriving at our table to explain what he was going to prepare for us. As we progressed through the multiple courses of antipasti, primi piatti, and secondi, our capable sommelier, Fausto, kept the wine glasses full. For the main course, Genuino came out to carve a huge 4”-thick T-Bone steak.

Hours later, after finishing dinner, and when the other customers left the building, Genuino and Ivanna (his wife and chef) came out to sit with us, have a drink and chat, all in Italian. Luckily, Annie and Francesco were with us, so we picked up much of the conversation. Around midnight, Genuino asked if we would like to see his cave (wine cellar) and sample some special wine. That experience began a lasting friendship with Ivanna and Genuino and many others in Volterra.

Dining here is an event. Depending on the weather, seating is available in a formal dining room, an enoteca wine cave, or on the patio in the back. Regardless of the setting, expect great, freshly prepared regional food. Genuino has a vineyard a few miles outside town where he produces his award-winning Merlot, Giusto alle Balze. Try a bottle or sample the tasty and less expensive San Giovese/Merlot blend known as Marcampo! You can’t go wrong with either.

COST/LOCATION/HOURS: €42 fixed-price sampling menu, €10 pastas, €15-18 main courses. Via Castello, 2 (walking from Piazza Martiri della Libertà, take a right at the first street, it will be right in front of you). Piazza Ma. tel. 0588-81510. Open 12:30-15:00 and 19:30-22:00. Closed Tuesday.

Join us on tour

Ready to kick back, relax and enjoy Volterra? Join David on the Essence of Italy, Best of Italy or the Tuscan Villa Vacation tour.

Your Adventure Starts Here!