The Best of Ireland, Scotland & Wales: 18 Days You’ll Never Stop Talking About

by David McGuffin | Sep 4, 2026 | Blog, Culture & Customs, Daily lfe, Destinations, Essential Travel Resources, Experiencing Europe

There’s a moment on almost every tour when it happens. Maybe it’s standing at the edge of the Cliffs of Moher with the Atlantic wind roaring off the water.

Maybe it’s the first pint of Guinness poured at the Gravity Bar, with Dublin and the Wicklow Mountains spreading out to the horizon. Maybe it’s the quiet hush inside the 800-year-old abbey on Iona, or the whistle of a steam locomotive climbing into Snowdonia. Whatever the moment is, travelers on this tour tend to describe it the same way: this is why I came.

If you’ve ever dreamed of experiencing Ireland, Scotland, and Wales in one unforgettable trip — without the stress of planning logistics, chasing trains, or wondering if you’re missing the “real” version of these countries — this is the tour built for you.

Three Countries, One Seamless Journey

Eighteen days. Three nations steeped in myth, music, and history — one small group, one dedicated guide, and zero guesswork.

This isn’t a whirlwind bus tour where you snap a photo and move on. It’s a deep, unhurried immersion into the landscapes and cultures that make the Celtic Isles unlike anywhere else on Earth — designed by someone who has walked every mile of it himself and knows exactly where the magic happens.

Galway & the West of Ireland – Buskers, pubs, and easy charm to start. Ride a ferryboat to the Aran Islands, stand at the edge of the Cliffs of Moher, and wander the Dingle Peninsula’s “forty shades of green.”
Kilkenny, Glendalough & Dublin- Kiss the legendary Blarney Stone, walk the peaceful monastic ruins of Glendalough in the Wicklow Mountains, and toast Ireland’s capital with a pint at a Temple Bar pub.
Edinburgh- A short flight across the Irish Sea into centuries of history along the Royal Mile, with Edinburgh Castle watching over it all.
The Highlands & Islands- St. Andrews, home of golf; the haunting grounds of Culloden Battlefield; a Loch Ness cruise beneath Urquhart Castle; and a ferry to the sacred island of Iona from the harbor town of Oban.
The Lake District & North Wales- A peaceful overnight in England, then a spectacular finish in North Wales — medieval castles, a working slate mine, the flower-filled Bodnant Gardens, and a historic steam railway through Snowdonia National Park.

A field of vibrant yellow flowers under a bright blue sky with scattered clouds.

Why Travelers Keep Coming Back

What makes this tour different isn’t just the itinerary — it’s how it’s run. Every detail, from the trusted hotels to the restaurant reservations, has been personally scouted and chosen. Groups stay small (just 6 to 18 travelers), so you’re never herded through a site behind a guide holding up a flag on a stick. You’ll have plenty of structured sightseeing along with generous free time to wander, shop, or sit with a coffee and watch the action of everyday life.

Travelers who’ve taken David McGuffin’s tours to Ireland, Scotland, and Wales consistently point to the same things: a guide who goes out of his way to help with anything you need, drivers who make even long travel days comfortable, and the sense of getting to really experience a place rather than just checking it off a list.

“The Scotland/Wales trip was wonderful. Scotland is so beautiful, and we loved the small towns where we stayed. Dave was a great guide and so willing to help us in whatever we needed.”

Lavon, Colorado — Tours to Scotland and Wales

That personal touch extends to custom and private journeys as well. One couple who arranged a private Ireland and Wales itinerary with David described being pleasantly surprised at the value of having their own dedicated guide and driver, complete with a detailed advance travel planner. They came away impressed by the attention to detail, the quality of the accommodations, and the freedom of skipping the lines, luggage scrambles, and rigid schedules that come with typical group travel — while still enjoying first-class comfort every step of the way.

You can read more traveler experiences on the full testimonials page, or watch David’s tour experience come to life in his Ireland tour video.

A group of happy travelers standing in front of the Oban Distillery.

What’s Included, So You Can Just Enjoy the Trip

This tour is priced to be worry-free from the moment you land:

17 nights in traditional hotels, guesthouses, and B&Bs, all with private en-suite baths
All breakfasts, plus nine included dinners at hand-picked local favorites
The flight across the Irish Sea from Ireland to Edinburgh
All tours and admissions — Blarney Castle, the Cliffs of Moher, Glendalough, the Guinness Storehouse, Edinburgh Castle, Culloden Battlefield, a Loch Ness cruise, the Isle of Mull and Iona, Bodnant Gardens, a Welsh slate mine, and a scenic steam train through Snowdonia, among many others
A full-time Exploring Europe guide and local experts throughout
All tips and gratuities to guides, drivers, restaurants, and hotel staff
Electronic tour handouts detailing each day’s history and culture
A guaranteed small group of 6–18 travelers
An unconditional tour price guarantee — once you book, your price never changes

Historic Edinburgh Castle perched on a rocky hill under a partly cloudy sky.

Is This Tour Right for You?

This trip is built for travelers who want to experience Ireland, Scotland, and Wales, not just glimpse them from a bus window. Most days call for light to moderate walking — a couple of miles on level ground, with some hills, cobblestones, and standing time built in — so a reasonable level of fitness makes the trip far more enjoyable.

If you love history, folklore, dramatic coastlines, castles, good food, and even better company, you’ll feel right at home.

Your Adventure Starts Here

Departures are already filling for 2027, with dates in May, June, August, and October. Given how quickly small-group departures sell out, now is the time to lock in your spot.

View Full Itinerary, Dates & Pricing

Or reach out directly — happy to answer questions and help you plan:
tours@davidmcguffin.com | 800-570-1351

Paris- Why It’s Still My Favorite City

by David McGuffin | Aug 9, 2026 | Blog, Culture & Customs, Daily lfe, Destinations, Eating & Drinking, Experiencing Europe

Of all the places I’ve traveled across Europe, Paris keeps its place at the top of my list. It has the grand boulevards, the boutiques, the outdoor cafés, the monuments and museums everyone comes for — and it has the Mona Lisa, the Eiffel Tower, and Notre Dame. But none of that fully explains why it’s my favorite. What does is something quieter: the way Paris rewards you for slowing down.

It’s a City of Neighborhoods, Not Just Sights

Ask me why Paris beats out every other city I’ve visited, and my answer is that it isn’t really about the landmarks. It’s that Paris is made up of dozens of distinct neighborhoods where I can step away from the tourist crowds entirely. You should absolutely see the big attractions — but there’s so much more to the city than one more museum or one more church.

One of my favorite escapes is the Canal Saint-Martin, a canal dug in the early 1800s to move grain and building materials into the city. I once spent an entire late-September morning just walking one bank and back down the other — watching kids float leaves and toy boats, moms pushing strollers, cafés and bistros getting ready for the lunch crowd, all happening beneath the amber and gold leaves of the ubiquitous plane trees. No horns, no traffic, no tour groups. Just Paris living its ordinary life.

I feel the same way about the streets near the Eiffel Tower, Champ de Mars, and Pont de l’Alma, where 18th-century blocks between Rue Saint-Dominique and the Seine are full of actual Parisians going about their day. After reading Julia Child’s biography, I learned she once lived in a small upper-floor apartment on Rue de l’Université. I still find myself walking that street, looking up, wondering who lives there in her old apartment now.

Slow Down — You’ll Enjoy It More

Paris can wear you out. I’ve led groups through two packed days trying to hit the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, Notre Dame, the Tuileries, Luxembourg Gardens, a Seine cruise, Montmartre and Sacré-Cœur, the Champs-Élysées, and a picnic on the Champ de Mars — and by day two, travelers from age 13 to 80 are all asking for the same thing: more time to breathe, to slow down, to get a break.

That’s why in the past decade I’ve moved toward longer stays and fewer forced stops per day. The sights will still be there. What people remember afterward isn’t how many boxes they checked — it’s the afternoon they didn’t rush, sitting at an outdoor café with a drink, or enjoying a quiet corner in a park on a shaded bench.

A City Built for Eating Well

Paris might be the best city in the world for a meal, whatever form that takes — a picnic along the Seine, a coffee and croissant to start the day, or a proper multi-course dinner. My rule of thumb: skip anywhere with a big multilingual menu posted outside. That’s a sign the kitchen isn’t cooking for repeat customers — it’s cooking for someone who’ll only ever eat there once.

Instead, look for where the locals eat. Avoid the tourist traps in the Latin Quarter, around the Louvre, Champs-Élysées, or up on Montmartre. Instead, find a secluded neighborhood and a small restaurant. Look for handwritten menus of the day, often sitting out front on a black chalkboard. I love starting with escargot and a good baguette, then moving to confit de canard — duck leg and thigh cooked slow in its own fat until it’s falling off the bone. Near Notre Dame, several small places tucked into a sandy little triangle of a square called Place Dauphine serve a seasonal formule menu — try the bœuf bourguignon or onion soup (but only if you’re there in winter or fall).

A few practical notes that catch people off guard: drinks don’t come with refills or much ice, though tap water is free if you ask for une carafe d’eau. Meals are a social event, not a race — your waiter won’t rush you, and you shouldn’t rush yourself either. And a service charge is already built into your bill, so tipping is a nice gesture, not an obligation.

Even the Hard Days Are Worth It

I was in Paris in April 2019, just days after the fire at Notre Dame. The mood on the streets was nothing like the Paris I knew — shock and quiet disbelief where there’s usually so much energy. Rounding a corner onto Rue Saint-Jacques and seeing the burnt-out cathedral for the first time stopped me in my tracks, and I wasn’t the only one. Even now, with most of the restoration complete, that image is part of the city’s story — a reminder that Paris isn’t just postcards, it’s a living place that endures.

So, Go — But Go Slowly

Climb the Eiffel Tower. Walk the Champs-Élysées. Stand in front of the Mona Lisa if you must. But don’t let the checklist run the trip. Find a bench in a park, a table at a sidewalk café, a canal to walk beside. Paris rewards the traveler who’s willing to slow down and just be in it.

That’s why, after all these years and all these cities, Paris is still my favorite. Next month, I’ll tell you my secret to landing a table with a view at the Eiffel Tower… for a reasonable price. Until then, au revoir.

Wine, Cheese, Fun, and Crusing in Croatia

by David McGuffin | Jul 19, 2026 | Destinations, Eating & Drinking, Experiencing Europe

Join us for WINE, CHEESE, INFORMATION, AND FUN!

Curious what island-hopping through Croatia is really like? Come find out over wine and cheese! We’re hosting two casual meet-and-greets in Clay County and St. Johns County, Florida — drop by for great conversation, a short audiovisual preview of the tour, and time for all your questions.

All are welcome, but please let us know you are coming. We want to make sure there is plenty of food, fun, and information!

Jamie and Adam live in Rivertown, in St Johns County, Florida. We will send you their address and directions once you let us know you are coming. – Thanks!

David and Charlotte live in Clay County, Middleburg, Florida. We will send you their address and directions once you let us know you are coming. – Thanks!

Jamie and Charlotte standing on a Croatia beach

ZOOM WEBINAR

Register for the ZOOM Webinar.

Register here

Well darn! I can’t come, but I’ll join in on the ZOOM LIVE broadcast on Friday, July 31 at 8:00 pm EDT.

Click here to find out more about this amazing Yacht Cruise in Croatia... visit our tour page.

Cheese and Wine in Paris

by Jen Pierotti | Jul 9, 2026 | Blog, Destinations, Eating & Drinking, Experiencing Europe

by Leslie Larson

The Best of London, Paris, and Rome tour is an excellent way to experience three of Europe’s most iconic capital cities. The itinerary is carefully designed to include the major landmarks and must-see attractions, while also giving travelers the opportunity to customize their experience with a free day in each city.

While in Paris last month, my colleague Jamie and I took advantage of one of those free days by participating in a cheese and wine tasting with a local cheesemonger in the charming Montmartre neighborhood.

Our host had carefully curated a selection of eight exceptional French cheeses, each thoughtfully paired with five French wines and a Champagne. Throughout the tasting, she shared fascinating insights into how each cheese is made, the region of France where it originated, and the unique characteristics that make it special. She also offered practical tips on selecting quality cheeses and choosing wines that complement them.

The experience was both educational and delicious. Not only did we gain a greater appreciation for France’s rich culinary traditions, but we also enjoyed a memorable afternoon immersed in the local culture. We left with a newfound confidence in pairing cheese and wine—and feeling pleasantly full and completely satisfied.

If you’re looking for a unique activity during your free day in Paris, a cheese and wine tasting is an experience I would highly recommend.

Barcelona-La Sagrada Familia exterior vignette

Spain: Thirteen Days, Eight Cities, and One Unforgetable Country

by David McGuffin | May 14, 2026 | Blog, Destinations, Eating & Drinking, Experiencing Europe

by David McGuffin

It took Spain a long time to get on my travel radar

I’d been to France dozens of times, Italy even more. But once I started leading tours of the Iberian Peninsula, I kept coming back—and I think I finally know why. There’s a looseness here, a no-rush-about-it attitude that is hard to find anywhere else in Europe. The food is incredible, the history is layered and complicated, and the people seem genuinely happy to have you wandering their streets. that’s my Best of Spain tour in a nutshell.

Over thirteen days on my Best of Spain tour, we cover eight cities and towns across the length of this massive country — from the modernista madness of Barcelona in the northeast all the way down to the sun-baked, flamenco-fueled streets of Sevilla in the southwest. Here’s a taste of what’s waiting for you.

Barcelona: Gaudí, Gothic, and the Grand Promenade

We begin in Barcelona, and honestly, it’s hard to imagine a better opening act. On our first evening, I like to walk the group through the Eixample neighborhood to see Gaudí’s so-called “Block of Discord” — a stretch of modernista buildings that are about as far from boring architecture as you can get. Over dinner at one of my favorite tapas spots, you start to get the feel of the city: loud, social, and very much alive after dark.

Day two is all about Gaudí’s great unfinished cathedral, La Sagrada Família. I’ve stood in front of that building more times than I can count, and it still stops me cold. The façades, the towers, the way light moves through the interior — there is simply nothing else like it in the world. After that, we wander the narrow lanes of the Gothic Quarter, out to the harbor promenade, and then the rest of the day is yours. Barcelona rewards wanderers.

Madrid: The Royal Capital at Its Best

A high-speed AVE train whisks us from Barcelona to Madrid in just a few hours — and yes, the train is genuinely part of the fun. Madrid is the heart of the country, and we give it the time it deserves: four nights.

On arrival, we head straight for the Palacio Real, the Royal Palace. With over 3,400 rooms, it is the largest functioning royal palace in Western Europe. The sheer scale of the place tends to make jaws drop. The next morning, we meet a local guide at the Prado Museum for a personal tour of its greatest works — Velázquez, Goya, and El Greco. No rushing. No tour bus crowds. Just good art and good conversation.

The rest of your time in Madrid is yours to fill. Find a café on the Plaza Mayor, duck into a neighborhood taberna, and discover the Retiro Park. Madrid is a city that rewards people who slow down.

Segovia: Cool, Quiet, and Completely Worth It

One of the best decisions I made years ago was to add a day trip to Segovia to this tour. Just a short train ride north of Madrid, Segovia sits at nearly 3,000 feet of elevation — which means even in summer, the air is crisp, and the pace is distinctly unhurried.

The Roman Aqueduct is the star of the show: 2,500 feet long, nearly 100 feet high, and built from 20,000 precisely cut granite stones stacked without a drop of mortar — two thousand years ago. No scaffolding, no power tools, no mortar. It still stands. We also wander up to the fairy-tale Alcázar, the hilltop castle that is said to have inspired Walt Disney, and the elegant Gothic Cathedral right on the main plaza. For lunch, we sit down to the regional specialty — roasted suckling pig. Don’t be shy about it. It’s extraordinary.

Toledo: The City of Three Cultures

Toledo is only thirty minutes from Madrid by high-speed train, but in every other sense, it is a world apart. For centuries, Christians, Muslims, and Jews lived and worked side by side here, and you can feel that layered history in every lane and doorway.

The Cathedral of Toledo is one of the great Gothic churches of the world — massive, dark, full of treasures. But I love Toledo just as much for the wandering: the crooked medieval streets, the sword-makers’ shops, the views from the old city walls out over the Tagus River below. We make a full day of it before heading back to Madrid for the evening.

Granada: Where the Moors Left Their Greatest Gift

A fast train carries us south to Granada and the heart of Andalucía. On arrival, we visit the Royal Chapel, where Ferdinand and Isabella — the monarchs who united Spain and sent Columbus west — lie in their lavish tombs. It’s a surprisingly intimate and moving place.

But the next morning is what everyone has been waiting for: The Alhambra. I’ve been through it many times, and I still find it breathtaking. This sprawling Moorish palace complex, perched on a forested hilltop above the city, is without question one of the most beautiful places on earth. The tilework, the carved stucco, the reflecting pools, the Generalife gardens — the artistry is extraordinary. Plan on spending the better part of the day.

Nerja: One Day, No Agenda, Just the Sea

After the grand palaces and cathedrals, I always love watching the group arrive in Nerja. This little beach town on the Costa del Sol is our one deliberate day off — no sightseeing agenda, no guided tours, no checklist. Just a pretty cliff-top town, sandy beaches, a small central plaza, and the Mediterranean stretching out in every direction.

Find a chair and umbrella on the beach. Read a book. Have a long lunch with a glass of something cold. That’s the whole plan, and it’s a good one.

Arcos de la Frontera: Spain’s Most Spectacular Hilltop Village

The mountains between Granada and Sevilla are dotted with whitewashed villages perched high in the hills, and my favorite of all of them is Arcos de la Frontera. We set up here for an afternoon and evening, and the views from the old town ramparts — out over the Andalusian countryside — are the kind that make you reach for your camera and then realize no photo will do it justice.

The cobbled lanes are ancient and narrow, the whitewashed houses glow in the afternoon light, and dinner at the top of the hill, watching the sun go down over the valley, is one of those moments the group always talks about afterward.

Sevilla: A Grand Finale

We save the biggest finish for last. Sevilla — capital of Andalucía and arguably the most passionate city in Spain — gives us two full nights to take it all in.

On our first day, we walk the whitewashed lanes of the Barrio Santa Cruz, the old Jewish quarter, and visit the Cathedral of Sevilla — the largest Gothic church in the Christian world, with a tower you can climb for sweeping views over the rooftops. That evening, we will settle in for a live flamenco performance. After a few days in Andalucía, you start to understand where this music comes from — the emotion, the drama, the raw intensity of it.

Our second day features a tour of the Real Alcázar, the Moorish-influenced royal palace that has been home to Spanish monarchs for more than five hundred years. Then the afternoon is free — wander, shop, sit on a terrace with a fino sherry and watch the city go by. That evening, we gather for our farewell dinner, raise a glass, and toast thirteen days of Spain done right.

Ready to Go?

My Best of Spain tour runs in September/October 2026 and again in spring and fall 2027. Small groups, authentic dining, and no rushing through the good stuff. Find dates and details here.

Spain rewards the traveler who pays attention to the food, the history, and the unhurried rhythms of daily life. Thirteen days is just enough time to fall in love with this country. Plenty of my travelers have come back for more.

I hope to see you there.

— David

Lisbon — Where the Old World Meets the Edge of the Sea

by David McGuffin | Mar 31, 2026 | Blog, Destinations, Eating & Drinking, Experiencing Europe

by David McGuffin

Lisbon — Where the Old World Meets the Edge of the Sea

Lisbon is not my most favorite city in Europe, but it does have this crusty, old-world charm that always beckons me to explore its hilltops, back streets, and grand boulevards. The first time I walked through Alfama — the old Moorish quarter draped across Lisbon’s steepest hill — I didn’t want to leave. As the afternoon turned into evening, the vhino verde and vistas would not let me leave. There’s something about this city that feels both ancient and completely alive. It moves at its own pace, it sounds like no other place on earth, and it will feed you extraordinarily well. If you’re going for a few days, you’re in for a treat. Here’s what I’d put at the top of my list.

🏰 Alfama & Castelo de São Jorge

Start at the top, literally. Castelo de São Jorge sits atop Lisbon’s highest hill, a Moorish fortress that has watched over this city for a thousand years. Arrive right at opening — 9AM — and for a brief window, you’ll have the battlements nearly to yourself. The views from up there are the best in the city, a full sweep of terracotta rooftops rolling down to the wide silver ribbon of the Tagus River. And keep an eye out, because peacocks roam the grounds freely, as if they own the place. They might.

On your way back downhill, stop into the Sé Cathedral. It’s Portugal’s oldest church, dating all the way back to 1147, and it looks the part — thick Romanesque walls, a stern facade, built to last through earthquakes and invasions alike. It has.

From there, just wander. That’s really the only instruction for Alfama. The neighborhood is a maze of narrow cobblestone lanes, faded azulejo tiles, and sun-bleached laundry strung between buildings. You’ll get lost. That’s the point.

🚋 Tram 28

At some point, you need to ride Tram 28. Not because of where it takes you, but because of what it is — a rattling, century-old yellow streetcar that hauls itself up and down impossibly steep streets, squeezing through lanes so narrow it nearly brushes the walls on both sides. Locals actually use it, which tells you something. Hang on tight, keep a hand on your pocket, and let it carry you through a slice of the city that most tourists see only from the outside.

🌅 The Miradouros — Lisbon’s Great Viewpoints

Lisbon is built on seven hills, and the locals have turned the best viewpoints into a civic ritual. They call them miradouros, and you need to visit at least two of them. Miradouro de Santa Luzia is the classic — a tiled terrace covered in bougainvillea, with red rooftops tumbling below you toward the river. It’s beautiful, especially in the late afternoon light. But if I had to pick just one, I’d send you to Miradouro da Senhora do Monte. It sits at the highest point in the city, it’s less crowded than the others, and on a clear evening at sunset the sky goes orange and pink and the whole city glows. There are usually pop-up drink vendors and sometimes live music. Grab something cold, find a spot on the wall, and stay as long as you can.

🏛️ Praça do Comércio & the Heart of the City

Walk down to the river, and you’ll arrive at Praça do Comércio — one of Europe’s grandest public squares, opening directly onto the Tagus. It’s framed by elegant golden arcades on three sides and the wide river on the fourth. Stand there for a moment and let the scale of it sink in. This is where Lisbon faces the sea that once made it the center of a global empire stretching from Brazil to India. The triumphal Rua Augusta Arch anchors the opposite end — climb to the top if you want another great view. At golden hour, with the river light bouncing off the buildings, the whole square turns honey-colored and magnificent.

🌿 The Carmo Convent

A short walk uphill into the Chiado neighborhood, you’ll find something I think is one of the most quietly extraordinary sights in all of Portugal. The Carmo Convent is a Gothic church that stands completely roofless — its elegant stone arches open to the sky, with ivy slowly climbing the walls. The 1755 earthquake brought the roof down, and the decision was made to simply leave it that way. There’s now a small archaeological museum inside. But the real experience is just standing in what used to be the nave, looking up at nothing but the open sky framed by eight-hundred-year-old stone. It stops you in your tracks.

⛵ Belém — Half a Day Well Spent

Take the tram or bus about six kilometers west along the river to the district of Belém, and you’re stepping into the heart of Portugal’s Age of Discovery. The Jerónimos Monastery is the crown jewel — a UNESCO World Heritage site and, in my view, one of the most breathtaking buildings in all of Europe. The style is called Manueline, Portugal’s own ornate maritime Gothic, and the stonework is almost unbelievably intricate — ropes, anchors, armillary spheres, and exotic flora carved into honey-colored stone. Vasco da Gama is buried inside. Buy your tickets in advance; the lines get long, and there’s no shade. Right next door, at the Pastéis de Belém bakery, order a warm custard tart straight from the oven, dust it with cinnamon, and eat it standing up. The recipe is a closely guarded secret that hasn’t changed since 1837. It’s worth the trip to Belém for that tart alone.

🎶 Fado — Don’t Skip This (but on my tours we do Fado in Coimbra)

On one of your evenings, find a small restaurant in Alfama where the lights are low and the chairs are pushed close together. When the fadista takes the floor and begins to sing — accompanied only by the Portuguese guitar — the room goes completely silent. Fado is the music of this city: born in these very streets, full of longing, salt air, and something irretrievably lost. Whether you understand a word or not, it will reach you. This is one of those experiences that no amount of reading about it can prepare you for. You just have to go.

🍽️ Eating & Drinking

Lisbon’s food culture will not let you down. Start every morning with a pastel de nata — a warm custard tart — and a bica (a small, strong espresso) at a neighborhood café counter, standing up like a local. For lunch or dinner, look for grilled fish, garlic prawns, or the beloved bacalhau (salt cod) prepared in one of what locals claim are 365 different ways. The wine is excellent and inexpensive — a crisp Vinho Verde on a warm afternoon, a robust Alentejo red with dinner. Small family restaurants are the best bet. Tip generously at the good ones; they deserve it.

💡 One Last Thing

The best tip I can give you for Lisbon doesn’t involve any monument or restaurant. Buy a small bag of ginjinha cherry liqueur chocolates from a street vendor near Alfama, find a set of steps on any hill, and sit down. Watch the light change over the rooftops. Let the city come to you. Lisbon has a pace all its own — unhurried, warm, a little melancholy in the best possible way. The sooner you surrender to it, the better your trip will be. I promise you, you won’t want to leave.