2017-06-Cinque-Terre_webWhat to Do in the Cinque Terre

The Cinque Terre—or “five lands”—is a loose-knit group of villages on Italy’s northern Ligurian Sea.

Swimming

Every town, except Corniglia, has a rocky beach with access to the cool water of the Ligurian Sea. Monterosso al Mare is the only town with a sandy beach, rental umbrellas, and chairs.

If you’re going to the beach, leave your passport at the hotel. Beach attire is appropriate everywhere. Wear a shirt or cover up when going to and from the beach or when dining. There is not much danger of theft or pickpockets in the Cinque Terre, but watch your things when swimming and sitting at outdoor cafés.

Boating

At many of the villages, you can charter a private boat and captain by the hour or for the day. Head out to sea to enjoy a different view of the villages or visit a more remote beach and enjoy swimming or snorkeling in the pristine waters.

Hiking

The Cinque Terre’s five villages are connected by a series of trails which wander through the vineyards, gardens, and olive groves. Originally these trails were constructed to give access to the terraced gardens and to provide a transportation route between villages. Today, the Italian government has designated the entire area a National Park in order to preserve the delicate balance between tourism and conservation. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Walking is easy between Riomaggiore and Manarola (approx. 1.2 miles), the famous Via dell’Amore, a paved trail cut into the cliff. Unfortunately, the Via dell’Amore has been closed for the last four years. Trails become progressively more difficult as you proceed west. Manarola to Corniglia (approx. 1.2 miles) features spectacular gardens and sea views. This trail too has been closed for four years. The trail from Corniglia to Vernazza (approx. 2 miles) climbs up through the groves to the highest point of the Cinque Terre with steep, uneven stone steps. The most difficult and scenic hike is between Vernazza and Monterosso (approx. 1.8 miles), with lots of stairs and narrow passages; it offers a stunning panorama of all five towns.

In the past, some of the trails connecting the villages have been closed due to landslides. Always check with the National Park Office before purchasing your “trail pass” and heading out. Be sure to wear comfortable shoes and bring a bottle of water. Do not litter. And don’t forget your sunscreen, hat, and sunglasses.

Dining

Local and freshly caught seafood is a specialty at all restaurants. Expect the seafood to look different and taste better than at home. The area is also famous for its basil pesto, which is especially tasty with the local favorite pasta known as troffie. The focaccia bread is another regional specialty you won’t want to miss.

The Cinque Terre is well known for its fresh and crisp white wine. Even if you normally do not like wine, try it here. The local consortium of growers combines their grapes at each harvest and produce the government regulated Cinque Terre D.O.C. wine. Bottles of this wine sell for €12 in shops and around €18 in restaurants. If you want to try a village-specific wine, ask at a wine shop or restaurant. These wines are produced from specific, defined vineyards, many of which the wine merchant or restaurateur can point out as you are making your purchase. These sell for €18-€28 per bottle. Many restaurants sell their cheapest (but still very good) wine in a carafe, either by the liter (litro), half-liter (mezzo litro) or quarter liter (quartino). Don’t miss out this bargain!

Equally as famous are the two “dessert” drinks. Limoncello is a syrupy and tangy lemon-based drink. Sciacchetrà is a sweet dessert wine made from grapes that have been left on the vine to increase their sugar content.

Cinque Terre

Tom Hickinbotham – The Cinque Terre

What to See in the Cinque Terre

Monterosso

This westernmost village is the only resort town, with lots of wine shops, artisan shops, hotels, and restaurants. It features a long seaside promenade with sandy beaches. The San Cristoforo hill separates the old town and the new, more modern area. You can take the pedestrian tunnel or walk along the seaside to go between the two.

Hike up the San Cristoforo hill for views of the entire Cinque Terre coastline. Here you will also find the Convento dei Cappuccini and the Chiesa di San Francesco, dating to 1623. A painting of the crucifixion attributed to Van Dyck hangs in the church. The nearby cemetery holds the ruins of an old castle and watchtower built by the Genoese. The 16th-century Aurora Tower stands at the foot of the hill.

In the historical center of Monterosso, you can visit the 13th-century Gothic Church of San Giovanni Battista. Its bell tower originally served as a watchtower. The façade comprises alternating bands of white and green marble, and the interior features a rose window and a Baroque altar. The Oratory of Confraternita dei Neri and the Oratory of Confraternita dei Bianchi are also nearby.

Vernazza

This is perhaps the most photogenic village, so it’s best to visit early or late when the day-trippers are gone. Because of its natural harbor, the town became active in sea trade after coming under the control of Genoa in the 13th century. It is dominated by the ruins of the castles and bastions built to protect it. The Church of Santa Margherita di Antiochia, built in 1318, stands in the small square overlooking the seaside.

Corniglia

Perched 100 meters above the coast, this is the smallest and quietest village. From the train station, there are nearly 400 steps to reach the town. Don’t worry; you can also take the bus, which is usually waiting outside the station with the arrival of each train. The 14th-century Church of San Pietro is one of the best examples of Ligurian Gothic style and has a rose window made of Carrara marble and a 12th-century christening font.

Manarola

From the stations, turn left, through the tunnel, to reach the old town. At the end of the tunnel, walking right (uphill) will eventually bring you to Piazza Papa Innocenzo IV, which offers an amazing view of the sea. In this square, you’ll find the Church of San Lorenzo, built in 1338, with its Gothic façade and Baroque interior. There is also an oratory and bell tower in the square.

Turning left as you exit the tunnel, will take you to the harbor. Here, you’ll notice the boats parked along the street like cars. In the evening, you can watch the local fishermen hoist their boats out of the sea. The café Nessun Dorma provides a good vantage point overlooking the harbor.

Riomaggiore

This is the easternmost village. Trains arrive at the station in the small square, which contains a shop, the park service office and a fountain. Go to the right, through the tunnel, to arrive in the old town. At the end of the tunnel, the main “street” continues uphill to the left. If you turn right and go down the stairs, you’ll reach the harbor and beach.

Walking up the ancient cobbled street to the left will bring you past shops selling food, wine and beach stuff. The street is lined with several bars serving local wine and good food. There are several pizzerias as well. This part of town is surrounded by terraces. The Church of San Giovanni Battista was originally built in 1340, but the façade was rebuilt in the 19th century in a Neo-Gothic style. The marble doors, rose window, crucifix and organ are worth a visit, and there is a nice view of the village from the square.

A castle stands atop the hill to the northwest of the village. It was most likely built in the 13th century to protect against attacks from the sea. Today it is used as a conference center and boasts wonderful panoramic views of the coast. The Oratory of San Rocco, next to the castle, was built in the 15th century in remembrance of those who died from the plague. A cliff-hanging trail leads from the beach to old Nazi bunkers and a hilltop botanical garden.

 

Ready to kick back, relax and enjoy the Cinque Terre? Join David on the Essence of Italy or Best of Italy tour.

 

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