Volterra’s History
Volterra has been around a long time. The first evidence of a settlement in the area was during the Neolithic Age when settlers moved from “low ground” to the more defensible “high ground” of Volterra. The town sits on a hill about 540 meters above sea level, making it one of the highest spots in Tuscany. Beginning in the 8th century BC there is evidence that the Etruscans settled here and founded the town as Velethri. It eventually became one of the twelve city-states of Etruria and by the 4th century BC, a great stone wall was constructed to fortify the city.
As you walk through the town today, notice all the references to the Etruscans: hotels are named for them, there is a museum dedicated to them, the artisan near the Roman theatre fashions jewelry after Etruscan artifacts, and the great stone gate, Porta all’ Arco, dates from the Etruscan era.
Later came the Romans, then the Florentines, and finally the tourists.
What to see in Volterra
Piazza Martiri della Libertà
Most likely, this busy square will be your first look at Volterra. It is here all vehicular traffic halts and the town becomes a pedestrian-friendly zone. Tour buses and regional buses stop here as well.
There is a handy, but costly, multi-storied parking garage buried into the hill below the piazza. (Parking € 1.50 /hr. or € 11/ 24 hr. Additional parking is located outside the town walls with steep walks to the city center).
Much of the information contained here has been gleaned from numerous visits and guided walks with my friend and local resident, Annie Adare. Annie showed up in Volterra some years ago, fell in love with the place, decided to stay, and, eventually, fell in love with a local young man as well. She and Francesco married, have two wonderful children, and live just outside the town walls. Through their agency, Tuscan Tour, they arrange American weddings and guided tours of Volterra and the surrounding countryside. Read more about it on their website.
Porta all’ Arco (Etruscan Arch)
This massive, yet eroded, arch was originally constructed in the 4th century BC as one of many entrance gates into the city.
Notice the oldest stones resemble those that can be seen throughout Italy, like in the Colosseum in Rome. This stone is known as tuffa and is found all over the Italian peninsula. Essentially, the stone is a result of volcanic eruptions where water, lava, and ash meld together to form these huge chunks.
The three almost indistinguishable heads were placed in the tuffa stone arch in the 1st century BC, more than 2,000 years ago! The other more uniform stones date from the 13th century when the Etruscan walls were incorporated into some of the newer fortifications. Many believe this is the only remaining Etruscan round arch with a keystone in place. Many local experts believe the Romans used this arch as the model for their rounded arch and keystone construction technique, which can be seen almost anywhere in the former Empire.
Not only is the Porta all’ Arco famous as an ancient relic, but it also has a WWII connection. It seems that on June 30, 1944, Nazi forces were planning to blow up the arch to slow down the advancing Allied forces. Heartbroken Volterrans quickly conceived a plan to avoid the travesty by ripping up all the stones that paved the via Porta all’ Arco and using them to plug up the gate. Hence, they were able to convince the German commander that the now unusable gate was no longer a threat.
Palazzo dei Priori (City Hall)
Back in the Middle Ages, when Volterra was an independent city-state, it held no allegiance to a pope, an emperor, or other city-states. Therefore, it was important to put their unique “stamp” on things in the form of ornate public buildings.
Volterra’s City Hall, constructed around 1209, was just such a structure. It served as a fortress, a palace, the court, and a public hall of records for centuries. It is believed to be the oldest of any Tuscan city-state and to have served as the model for the famous Palazzo Vecchio in Florence.
The many coats-of-arms embedded in the palace walls chronicle the ruling families of Volterra, dating back a thousand years.
The horizontal “staff” carved into the wall, near the doorway, served as the official “rule” or yardstick for Volterrans who gathered in the palace courtyard to conduct trade.
For €1, it is possible to visit the city council chambers (when not in use) to experience the opulently painted room and its dragon light fixtures.
Il Duomo (La Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta)
You can see a portion of the Duomo from the Piazza dei Priori, just to the right of City Hall. There are horizontal black and white stripes on the rear façade, where a little doorway often opens into the Duomo.
To get the full experience of the Cathedral, walk around the block and enter from the cathedral square. The present Cathedral was completed in 1120 and dedicated to Mary and her Assumption into Heaven.
Before entering, look around the square. Here you will find a typical Italian arrangement of a bell tower, a baptistery, and the church. As in Pisa, Florence, Siena, and other towns, this was important because people could not enter the church without being baptized. Hence, a newborn would enter the baptistery from the western door, participate in baptism, exit through the east door, enter the church through the west doors, and finally, participate in worship facing the altar on the eastern end of the cathedral.
CHURCH
The entrance is flanked by two solid marble columns supporting a rounded arch. Higher up, more decorative marble is strategically placed to add detail and ornamentation to the austere stone façade.
Stepping inside, notice the highly polished granite columns symmetrically supporting decorative round arches. In contrast, the floor provides an array of geometrical shapes tying together the interior. Although the cathedral was constructed in the 12th-century Romanesque style, much of the interior dates from a remodeling job completed in the late 16th century by the Florentine Medici family. The ornate and highly decorative gilded ceiling depicts the Assumption.
Notice the various coats of arms from Volterra families and that of the Medici (the Medici coat of arms contains six “pills” representing their original profession as doctors or medici).
The chapel to the left of the entry door houses several richly painted statues depicting Biblical scenes. They are hundreds of years ahead in their artistic development.
The Rosary Chapel is on the left, just before the Pulpit. The painting is by Fra Bartholomew, completed in 1497. It depicts the Annunciation. Take note of the rich colors and attention to detail, especially in the Virgin Mary.
The ornately carved Pulpit was completed in the 12th century. Its carved scenes detail Jesus’ Last Supper. All the disciples are present, although Judas is down under the table with an evil spirit.
To the right of the altar is the Chapel of the Deposition. Here, richly painted wooden figures depict the removal of Jesus from the cross in three-dimensional form. This work, completed in 1228, is an amazingly realistic representation that shows action and emotion in the figures. It was centuries ahead of its time.
The incandescent windows above the altar, instead of the typical stained glass, are actually made of sheets of alabaster.
BAPTISTERY
The Baptistery is constructed on an octagonal base and dates to the 12th century. The façade consists of the characteristic green and white stripes of marble. There are few decorations inside, but there are two baptismal fonts. The one in the center is by Vaccà in 1760. The octagonal font in the corner is by Sasovino (1502) and depicts the baptism of Christ, with the virtues of Faith, Hope, Charity, and Justice.
TOWER
The bell tower was built in 1493 after the original one collapsed. There is an inscription around the base that recalls this fact.
Museo Etrusco Guarnacci (Etruscan Museum)
The museum houses a treasure trove of Etruscan artifacts tucked away in “old school” display cases. This is the perfect example of artwork that is stashed away and only available for those who take the extra effort to go out of their way (to Volterra) for the experience. Often dusty and neglected, the artifacts chronicle the history of the Etruscan culture dating from 1500 BC.
There is very little English explanation, but you don’t really need it to appreciate the works.
Perhaps the most famous work of art is Ombra della sera (Shadow of the evening), pictured here. This bronze statue has come to symbolize Etruscan society.
Just as important are the numerous funeral urns which were designed to contain the ashes of loved ones who passed away. Each urn is carved with a scene specific to the deceased in hopes that it would present the gods with a favorable impression on their life on Earth.
The museum also contains loads of finely crafted jewelry designed to adorn the Etruscan people. Evidently, they had good taste and plenty of gold with which to work! The artisan on the road above the Roman theater handcrafts fine replicas of the jewelry.
Palazzo Viti
The palace offers an authentic look into the private residence of the nobility. Twelve rooms display ornate decorations, frescoes, fine woven rugs, collectibles, and furniture from the 15th through 20th centuries. The palazzo is actually occupied by the Viti family, so it has a “live-in” appeal. Many say this is the finest residential building in Italy.
Teatro Romana (Roman Theater)
Until the 1950s, this Roman theater and adjacent baths were covered in a pile of dirt, garbage, and debris that had accumulated in the 1,500 years since the fall of Rome.
The story goes that in the 1950s, a local resident noticed the rounded indention in the Middle-Ages-era wall and sought funding and permission from the government to excavate. The government, bound by bureaucracy, gave permission to dig but offered no funding. It just so happened the local resident had an association with the “mental hospital” occupying the old Medici-era fortress, so he commissioned the patients to dig at no cost to anyone. The result of their labors revealed the perfectly preserved 1st-century BC teatro and 3rd-century AD Roman baths.
The theatre stage is typical Roman design with three levels from which the actors would appear: level 1 for mortals, level 2 for heroes, and level 3 (at the top) for gods. All Roman theatre-goers knew this design, and thus, the playwright had an easy way to present the cast to the audience.
View the Teatro for Free
Via Lungo le Mure runs atop the Middle Ages-era wall, just above the Roman Theatre. From here, you will have a great view of the ancient Roman ruins and the surrounding countryside to the north. This is also a great place to enjoy a glass of wine, a moonlit evening, and the quiet side of Tuscany. No wild after-hours parties! All is quiet in Volterra after 21:00. Go to La Vena di Vino if you want to kick up a ruckus.
Also, from here you can see portions of the four-mile Etruscan city wall, dating from the 4th century BC. Look to the left and find the distant church, then notice the stone (wall) just below. These are traces of the Etruscan wall that encircled Volterra and the surrounding valley fields more than 2,500 years ago.
The Importance of stone
Look anywhere in Volterra and you will find stone. The streets, palaces, churches, and city walls are made of it. Upon close inspection, you’ll find little seashells embedded into this unique stone known as panchino. Volterra, on the western frontier of Tuscany, has always been isolated from society and had to make do with what they had.
Alabaster
Early on, alabastro (alabaster) was discovered in and around Volterra. Previously, this stone was known only in Egypt around the town of Alabastron, famous for antique vases and perfume bottles. Once it was discovered in Volterra, the local craftsmen began duplicating the ancient relics from Egypt.
The alabaster of Volterra is known as chalky alabaster and is particularly soft and easy to carve. It comes out of the ground as a white chunk of stone that is eventually divided into smaller pieces. The Etruscans used only the best alabaster to carve funerary urns and sarcophagi decorated with ornate imagery of the deceased, scenes from their daily life and imaginary journeys beyond the tomb. The Etruscan craftsmen colored the white alabaster with minerals, turning them into richly colored and decorated works of art.
Apparently, the use of alabaster dropped out of vogue during the Middle Ages and Renaissance. It was not until the 17th century that it once again gained popularity. By the 18th century, Volterra’s alabaster was world-famous. According to records, there were sixty alabaster workshops in little Volterra.
Today, even though alabaster does not play an important role in world art, craftsmen still thrive in Volterra. You will find several workshops managed by aged craftsmen passing down their trade to future generations. There are several alabaster workshops in Volterra. All welcome visitors and are happy to have you watch as they sculpt and work the raw alabaster stone.
My favorite is Alab’Arte (gallery and showroom) where alabaster is crafted by locals Roberto Chiti and Giorgio Finazzo. Alab’Arte is just across the street from the Etruscan Museum. Their real-live workshop is across the street and down the hill at the Porta Marcoli. Stop in and watch them in action!
The best places to grab a drink and a meal
La Vena di Vino (The Vein of Wine)
Some years ago, my friends introduced me to this unique wine bar. That first night, I was instantly welcomed by owners Bruno and Lucio and a cast of characters from the town. We spent the evening drinking wine and grappa, singing karaoke, and trying out our Italian and English on each other. Since that night, I’ve held a bond of friendship with the folks I met at this unique enoteca.
Each day, Bruno and Lucio open a few bottles of good Tuscan wine and serve it up with tasty antipasti. Decorating the ceiling is a 1960s vintage Volkswagen Beetle. Downstairs is a vintage dentist’s chair from which one can belt out karaoke to the roaring crowd. This is THE place to hang out, especially in the late evening when the rest of the town sleeps.
Doors are open every day, except Tuesdays, from 11:00-1:00. Wine by the glass runs about €6-€8. Hot food, Italian-cured meats, and antipasti are served all day.
Via Don Minzoni, 30. Tel. 0588 81491. www.lavenadivino.com
Ristorante Enoteca Del Duca
On my first visit to Volterra, yes, the one mentioned above, I discovered Enoteca Del Duca. The evening began with us sitting down for dinner in the formal dining room, and owner/chef, Genuino, arriving at our table to explain what he was going to prepare for us. As we progressed through the multiple courses of antipasti, primi piatti, and secondi, our capable sommelier, Fausto, kept the wine glasses full. For the main course, Genuino came out to carve a huge 4”-thick T-Bone steak.
Hours later, after finishing dinner, and when the other customers left the building, Genuino and Ivanna (his wife and chef) came out to sit with us, have a drink and chat, all in Italian. Luckily, Annie and Francesco were with us, so we picked up much of the conversation. Around midnight, Genuino asked if we would like to see his cave (wine cellar) and sample some special wine. That experience began a lasting friendship with Ivanna and Genuino and many others in Volterra.
Dining here is an event. Depending on the weather, seating is available in a formal dining room, an enoteca wine cave, or on the patio in the back. Regardless of the setting, expect great, freshly prepared regional food. Genuino has a vineyard a few miles outside town where he produces his award-winning Merlot, Giusto alle Balze. Try a bottle or sample the tasty and less expensive San Giovese/Merlot blend known as Marcampo! You can’t go wrong with either.
COST/LOCATION/HOURS: €42 fixed-price sampling menu, €10 pastas, €15-18 main courses. Via Castello, 2 (walking from Piazza Martiri della Libertà, take a right at the first street, it will be right in front of you). Piazza Ma. tel. 0588-81510. Open 12:30-15:00 and 19:30-22:00. Closed Tuesday.
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