by David McGuffin | Apr 9, 2012 | Adventures in Tour Guiding
95% of the time, I personally know my bus drivers and they and I have worked together for many years. On this tour, when the flight itineraries changed, I had to change my bus and driver plans as well. I contacted my tour agency friend in Rome and requested bus and driver service for the tour’s duration to Barcelona. Usually, this would be no problem, as my relationship with this agency has always been a superior experience. However, somehow I was assigned the worst bus driver ever.
Michele, a native Roman, possessed very little people skills and was immediately rude and gruff to the folks on my tour. He refused to unlock the toilet, help with loading baggage, and help with anything beyond driving. In Italy, he was adequate and knew the routings into Rome, Florence, and Volterra. However, once in France, he was lost. Ultimately, I had to resort to using my iPhone GPS to route him to our hotel in Nice and Carcassonne. Michele drove unbearably slow at 75 Km per hour, even on the superhighways. He used his mobile phone to text, talk, and even tried to show me photos while driving. The last straw, for me, came in Aix-en-Provence, when Michele kept the group waiting at the pickup point for over an hour. I had to call his boss in Rome to get him to leave the comfort of the bus parking he found, and come to collect us!
That same day, we drove onward to Arles, a mere one hour drive for most coaches, while it took Michele almost two, because of slow driving and getting lost. Arriving in the city center, we only had time for a one hour tour of the town. I made certain to make a firm rendezvous time and location with Michele, as he insisted we should return within one hour. So, all the group assembles at the appointed time, only to have to wait on Michele to arrive twenty minutes late for our pickup. He told me later he had gone to the hotel to check to his room.
Here are a couple of things to keep in mind: Michele spoke only Italian, I speak enough Italian to communicate my intent and to lead/guide him into our destinations. At the outset, the only thing he was interested in was that I provide him with 200 euro for his meals on the tour. I laughed at that because I usually give my drivers a salary (in the form of cash payment) well over the “expected” group tip.
The next morning, I put in a call to my friend and Michele’s boss. After that, there was an immediate change in Michele’s attitude. He helped load the luggage, did not use his mobile phone, and was more friendly with the group members. Luckily, I had a friend on the tour who could mediate and help translate our conversations, and this seemed to help as well.
In the end, Michele worked out, but not before a valuable lesson on my part. Stick with drivers I know (like Peter, Alain, and Brendon), all others, give ’em a test drive before turning them loose on my travel partners.
by David McGuffin | Apr 6, 2012 | Adventures in Tour Guiding, Destinations, Experiencing Europe
A couple of weeks ago I struck off for Rome for what I now call my tapas tour. Tapas are little bite-sized snacks meant to be eaten with toothpicks or your fingers. Often tapas bars serve up twenty or so different selections meant to give a tasty sample and whet your appetite.
This tour itinerary morphed into a sampling tour consisting of three countries and nine destinations, all in seven days! Not the kind of tour I usually design, but how could I help it? Originally, I planned the tour to begin in Tuscany and finish up in Barcelona, a lot of bus travel, but very doable. Seven days on that route would have given us a leisurely itinerary along the Mediterranean coast.
Then the problems began, first the airline changed the routing to Rome and ultimately departing from Madrid. It made little sense to arrive in Rome, but not “experience” Rome. So, I altered day one to include a “tornado” tour of the Roman Forum and Colosseum, plus a look at St. Peter’s Basilica. As it turned out, the arriving flight from the USA was delayed by two hours, turning our time in Rome to a mere three hours.
We had a peaceful drive up to Tuscany, as most people took a chance to sleep and shake off the jet lag. Arriving in Volterra, we were off the bus and in our hotel by 6:00 p.m., pizza dinner at 7:30, and finished up by 9:00.
The next day was delightful; this is one part of my original plan that did come together. We spent the entire day in Volterra, a place I call my favorite Tuscany hill town. There was a wine tasting at La Vena di Vino which was a big hit for the group. But, mostly, everyone just relaxed in town. That night we dined in gourmet style at Ristorante Del Duca. A smashing success!
The next day, we were on the bus and out of town by 8:30. This, I knew, was the longest day of the tour. We visited Florence, where I conducted a rapid walking tour that took in the San Lorenzo Market, the Duomo, Piazza Della Signoria, and the Ponte Vecchio. The weather did not help matters. About halfway through our walk, the heavens opened up with a torrential downpour, soaking almost everyone in the group.
Later, back on the bus, we all settled in for the six-hour drive to Nice, France. Little did I know this would begin the worst “bus driver” experience of my career. Episode two coming soon…
by David McGuffin | Mar 24, 2012 | Adventures in Tour Guiding, Destinations, Experiencing Europe
This morning I loaded a group of 41 faithful tour members on to a bus, one last time, and off we went to Madrid’s airport. Our adventure began one week ago, way down in Rome. During the last seven days, we’ve put a lot of kilometers between here and Rome. For the most part, the tour went very well, although, there were a few “hitches” along the way. But, I’ll save those stories for another post.
At the moment, I want to share my “tour recovery” story here in Madrid. You might imagine it would be a bit stressful leading a large group of American tourist around Europe. There are tons of things to think about, plan, consider, and adjust everyday. My wife puts it this way, “when David’s leading a tour, he has to be ‘Mister Entertainment’ and on the ball 24/7.” We both learned a long time ago it is not a “vacation” for us when we are leading a group tour.
So, after getting the group checked-in and through security at the airport, I was ready for a “down” day of recovery. I hopped on the Metro and returned to central Madrid. It is Saturday, and the town was slowly waking up. When I popped out of the Metro and onto Plaza de España, it was filled with joggers, dogs, and older residents enjoying the warm sunshine while visiting on park benches. I took a stroll over to Puerta del Sol, and finally to Plaza Major. It was wonderful, just to wander, not having to worry if my group was in tow or feeling the need to count to 41 for yet another time.

After taking some photos in Plaza Major, I found an outdoor cafe, ordered a cafe con leche and took in the scene. By now, it was approaching 11:00 and the square was coming to life. The silly costumed entertainers and vendors were getting dressed in hidden alcoves, waiters were drying the dew off tables, dressing them in crisp table clothes, and tour groups were just beginning to flood in to the square.
There was an American family sitting two tables away from me, and the two teen-aged boys had fried eggs and bacon on their plate. After ten days eating breakfasts of chewy baguettes, jam, cold cuts, and pastries, this looked pretty good. So, I got some myself and enjoyed a traditional USA breakfast on the grandest square in Spain!
After writing in my journal and posting some photos to Facebook, I was surprised to find it was after 2:00 p.m. I think I’ll pack up my things, go back to the hotel, and take a siesta!
by David McGuffin | Mar 22, 2012 | Destinations, Restaurant Reviews
VOLTERRA- I arrived back in my favorite Tuscan hilltown yesterday afternoon. Volterra is delightful. This is how I describe it in my guidebook:
Volterra is the perfect pick for my favorite Tuscan hilltown, Not too big, not too crowded, and certainly not loaded with tacky tourist shops, it is authentic in every way. Settle in to Volterra, for a beautiful town, surrounded by ancient fortifications, guarded by an impressive fortress, and perched high on a hill overlooking the fertile fields of western Tuscany. Visiting here tends to make one forget about “touring” and more about settling into the laid-back lifestyle of the local folks. It’s hard not to “go local” with a visit to the market, or knocking down an espresso at the neighborhood bar. Engage in conversation with the shopkeepers and “get lost” wandering the narrow cobbled streets. On the town square, enjoy a crisp glass of wine at a café and then hang out for the late afternoon passigiata where everyone gets out to visit. Finally, enjoy a tasty dining experience featuring some of the best restaurants in Tuscany. Soon, the day will be over and you’ll be asking for just one more. Embrace Volterra and experience Italian life!”
I arrived here with 43 friends, some whom I just met this morning at Rome’s airport, and others who I count as my best friends and travel partners. Emerging this many Americans into Volterra’s fragile lifestyle is always a tricky process. On the one hand, I want to give a 36 hour “crash course” compiling all my personal Volterran experiences, on the other, I hope to provide the “venue” for individual experiences, the kind that won me over to this town many years ago.
So, to take the edge off their jet-lag, we jumped right into Volterra’s lifestyle at Pizzaria Ombra Della Serra, immersing ourselves into an Italian-only environment filled with good food, better wine, and an easy transition from American culture to Volterran life.
by David McGuffin | Mar 16, 2012 | David's Journal, Destinations
ROME- My flight landed at 6:30 a.m. at Rome’s Leonardo DaVinci Airport. No long lines this time of morning! I was out the door and on the Leonard Express train within 20 minutes. I made a transfer to the Metro for a short ride to Piazza Spagna.
The piazza and Spanish Steps were desolate this time of the morning, just me and a few stray street cleaners. Using Google maps on my iPhone I found my hotel was about a 30-minute walk, so I struck off across town.
Hotel Palm Gallery is in a residential area north of Rome’s historic city center. With it being only 8:30 a.m., my room was not ready, but I was invited for breakfast. Leaving my luggage at the office, I took a quick walk around the neighborhood and discovered a quiet park, two public schools, a coffee shop, a pizzeria, and the bus stops connecting my hotel neighborhood with central Rome.

The park near my hotel
Returning to the hotel, I checked into my room and took a nap for about an hour. By noon, I was refreshed, and on my way to the nearby Villa Borghese.