Spain: Thirteen Days, Eight Cities, and One Unforgetable Country

by David McGuffin | May 14, 2026 | Blog, Destinations, Eating & Drinking, Experiencing Europe

by David McGuffin

It took Spain a long time to get on my travel radar

I’d been to France dozens of times, Italy even more. But once I started leading tours of the Iberian Peninsula, I kept coming back—and I think I finally know why. There’s a looseness here, a no-rush-about-it attitude that is hard to find anywhere else in Europe. The food is incredible, the history is layered and complicated, and the people seem genuinely happy to have you wandering their streets. that’s my Best of Spain tour in a nutshell.

Over thirteen days on my Best of Spain tour, we cover eight cities and towns across the length of this massive country — from the modernista madness of Barcelona in the northeast all the way down to the sun-baked, flamenco-fueled streets of Sevilla in the southwest. Here’s a taste of what’s waiting for you.

Barcelona: Gaudí, Gothic, and the Grand Promenade

We begin in Barcelona, and honestly, it’s hard to imagine a better opening act. On our first evening, I like to walk the group through the Eixample neighborhood to see Gaudí’s so-called “Block of Discord” — a stretch of modernista buildings that are about as far from boring architecture as you can get. Over dinner at one of my favorite tapas spots, you start to get the feel of the city: loud, social, and very much alive after dark.

Day two is all about Gaudí’s great unfinished cathedral, La Sagrada Família. I’ve stood in front of that building more times than I can count, and it still stops me cold. The façades, the towers, the way light moves through the interior — there is simply nothing else like it in the world. After that, we wander the narrow lanes of the Gothic Quarter, out to the harbor promenade, and then the rest of the day is yours. Barcelona rewards wanderers.

Madrid: The Royal Capital at Its Best

A high-speed AVE train whisks us from Barcelona to Madrid in just a few hours — and yes, the train is genuinely part of the fun. Madrid is the heart of the country, and we give it the time it deserves: four nights.

On arrival, we head straight for the Palacio Real, the Royal Palace. With over 3,400 rooms, it is the largest functioning royal palace in Western Europe. The sheer scale of the place tends to make jaws drop. The next morning, we meet a local guide at the Prado Museum for a personal tour of its greatest works — Velázquez, Goya, and El Greco. No rushing. No tour bus crowds. Just good art and good conversation.

The rest of your time in Madrid is yours to fill. Find a café on the Plaza Mayor, duck into a neighborhood taberna, and discover the Retiro Park. Madrid is a city that rewards people who slow down.

Segovia: Cool, Quiet, and Completely Worth It

One of the best decisions I made years ago was to add a day trip to Segovia to this tour. Just a short train ride north of Madrid, Segovia sits at nearly 3,000 feet of elevation — which means even in summer, the air is crisp, and the pace is distinctly unhurried.

The Roman Aqueduct is the star of the show: 2,500 feet long, nearly 100 feet high, and built from 20,000 precisely cut granite stones stacked without a drop of mortar — two thousand years ago. No scaffolding, no power tools, no mortar. It still stands. We also wander up to the fairy-tale Alcázar, the hilltop castle that is said to have inspired Walt Disney, and the elegant Gothic Cathedral right on the main plaza. For lunch, we sit down to the regional specialty — roasted suckling pig. Don’t be shy about it. It’s extraordinary.

Toledo: The City of Three Cultures

Toledo is only thirty minutes from Madrid by high-speed train, but in every other sense, it is a world apart. For centuries, Christians, Muslims, and Jews lived and worked side by side here, and you can feel that layered history in every lane and doorway.

The Cathedral of Toledo is one of the great Gothic churches of the world — massive, dark, full of treasures. But I love Toledo just as much for the wandering: the crooked medieval streets, the sword-makers’ shops, the views from the old city walls out over the Tagus River below. We make a full day of it before heading back to Madrid for the evening.

Granada: Where the Moors Left Their Greatest Gift

A fast train carries us south to Granada and the heart of Andalucía. On arrival, we visit the Royal Chapel, where Ferdinand and Isabella — the monarchs who united Spain and sent Columbus west — lie in their lavish tombs. It’s a surprisingly intimate and moving place.

But the next morning is what everyone has been waiting for: The Alhambra. I’ve been through it many times, and I still find it breathtaking. This sprawling Moorish palace complex, perched on a forested hilltop above the city, is without question one of the most beautiful places on earth. The tilework, the carved stucco, the reflecting pools, the Generalife gardens — the artistry is extraordinary. Plan on spending the better part of the day.

Nerja: One Day, No Agenda, Just the Sea

After the grand palaces and cathedrals, I always love watching the group arrive in Nerja. This little beach town on the Costa del Sol is our one deliberate day off — no sightseeing agenda, no guided tours, no checklist. Just a pretty cliff-top town, sandy beaches, a small central plaza, and the Mediterranean stretching out in every direction.

Find a chair and umbrella on the beach. Read a book. Have a long lunch with a glass of something cold. That’s the whole plan, and it’s a good one.

Arcos de la Frontera: Spain’s Most Spectacular Hilltop Village

The mountains between Granada and Sevilla are dotted with whitewashed villages perched high in the hills, and my favorite of all of them is Arcos de la Frontera. We set up here for an afternoon and evening, and the views from the old town ramparts — out over the Andalusian countryside — are the kind that make you reach for your camera and then realize no photo will do it justice.

The cobbled lanes are ancient and narrow, the whitewashed houses glow in the afternoon light, and dinner at the top of the hill, watching the sun go down over the valley, is one of those moments the group always talks about afterward.

Sevilla: A Grand Finale

We save the biggest finish for last. Sevilla — capital of Andalucía and arguably the most passionate city in Spain — gives us two full nights to take it all in.

On our first day, we walk the whitewashed lanes of the Barrio Santa Cruz, the old Jewish quarter, and visit the Cathedral of Sevilla — the largest Gothic church in the Christian world, with a tower you can climb for sweeping views over the rooftops. That evening, we will settle in for a live flamenco performance. After a few days in Andalucía, you start to understand where this music comes from — the emotion, the drama, the raw intensity of it.

Our second day features a tour of the Real Alcázar, the Moorish-influenced royal palace that has been home to Spanish monarchs for more than five hundred years. Then the afternoon is free — wander, shop, sit on a terrace with a fino sherry and watch the city go by. That evening, we gather for our farewell dinner, raise a glass, and toast thirteen days of Spain done right.

Ready to Go?

My Best of Spain tour runs in September/October 2026 and again in spring and fall 2027. Small groups, authentic dining, and no rushing through the good stuff. Find dates and details here.

Spain rewards the traveler who pays attention to the food, the history, and the unhurried rhythms of daily life. Thirteen days is just enough time to fall in love with this country. Plenty of my travelers have come back for more.

I hope to see you there.

— David

Barcelona-La Sagrada Familia exterior vignette

Lisbon — Where the Old World Meets the Edge of the Sea

by David McGuffin | Mar 31, 2026 | Blog, Destinations, Eating & Drinking, Experiencing Europe

by David McGuffin

Lisbon — Where the Old World Meets the Edge of the Sea

Lisbon is not my most favorite city in Europe, but it does have this crusty, old-world charm that always beckons me to explore its hilltops, back streets, and grand boulevards. The first time I walked through Alfama — the old Moorish quarter draped across Lisbon’s steepest hill — I didn’t want to leave. As the afternoon turned into evening, the vhino verde and vistas would not let me leave. There’s something about this city that feels both ancient and completely alive. It moves at its own pace, it sounds like no other place on earth, and it will feed you extraordinarily well. If you’re going for a few days, you’re in for a treat. Here’s what I’d put at the top of my list.

🏰 Alfama & Castelo de São Jorge

Start at the top, literally. Castelo de São Jorge sits atop Lisbon’s highest hill, a Moorish fortress that has watched over this city for a thousand years. Arrive right at opening — 9AM — and for a brief window, you’ll have the battlements nearly to yourself. The views from up there are the best in the city, a full sweep of terracotta rooftops rolling down to the wide silver ribbon of the Tagus River. And keep an eye out, because peacocks roam the grounds freely, as if they own the place. They might.

On your way back downhill, stop into the Sé Cathedral. It’s Portugal’s oldest church, dating all the way back to 1147, and it looks the part — thick Romanesque walls, a stern facade, built to last through earthquakes and invasions alike. It has.

From there, just wander. That’s really the only instruction for Alfama. The neighborhood is a maze of narrow cobblestone lanes, faded azulejo tiles, and sun-bleached laundry strung between buildings. You’ll get lost. That’s the point.

🚋 Tram 28

At some point, you need to ride Tram 28. Not because of where it takes you, but because of what it is — a rattling, century-old yellow streetcar that hauls itself up and down impossibly steep streets, squeezing through lanes so narrow it nearly brushes the walls on both sides. Locals actually use it, which tells you something. Hang on tight, keep a hand on your pocket, and let it carry you through a slice of the city that most tourists see only from the outside.

🌅 The Miradouros — Lisbon’s Great Viewpoints

Lisbon is built on seven hills, and the locals have turned the best viewpoints into a civic ritual. They call them miradouros, and you need to visit at least two of them. Miradouro de Santa Luzia is the classic — a tiled terrace covered in bougainvillea, with red rooftops tumbling below you toward the river. It’s beautiful, especially in the late afternoon light. But if I had to pick just one, I’d send you to Miradouro da Senhora do Monte. It sits at the highest point in the city, it’s less crowded than the others, and on a clear evening at sunset the sky goes orange and pink and the whole city glows. There are usually pop-up drink vendors and sometimes live music. Grab something cold, find a spot on the wall, and stay as long as you can.

🏛️ Praça do Comércio & the Heart of the City

Walk down to the river, and you’ll arrive at Praça do Comércio — one of Europe’s grandest public squares, opening directly onto the Tagus. It’s framed by elegant golden arcades on three sides and the wide river on the fourth. Stand there for a moment and let the scale of it sink in. This is where Lisbon faces the sea that once made it the center of a global empire stretching from Brazil to India. The triumphal Rua Augusta Arch anchors the opposite end — climb to the top if you want another great view. At golden hour, with the river light bouncing off the buildings, the whole square turns honey-colored and magnificent.

🌿 The Carmo Convent

A short walk uphill into the Chiado neighborhood, you’ll find something I think is one of the most quietly extraordinary sights in all of Portugal. The Carmo Convent is a Gothic church that stands completely roofless — its elegant stone arches open to the sky, with ivy slowly climbing the walls. The 1755 earthquake brought the roof down, and the decision was made to simply leave it that way. There’s now a small archaeological museum inside. But the real experience is just standing in what used to be the nave, looking up at nothing but the open sky framed by eight-hundred-year-old stone. It stops you in your tracks.

⛵ Belém — Half a Day Well Spent

Take the tram or bus about six kilometers west along the river to the district of Belém, and you’re stepping into the heart of Portugal’s Age of Discovery. The Jerónimos Monastery is the crown jewel — a UNESCO World Heritage site and, in my view, one of the most breathtaking buildings in all of Europe. The style is called Manueline, Portugal’s own ornate maritime Gothic, and the stonework is almost unbelievably intricate — ropes, anchors, armillary spheres, and exotic flora carved into honey-colored stone. Vasco da Gama is buried inside. Buy your tickets in advance; the lines get long, and there’s no shade. Right next door, at the Pastéis de Belém bakery, order a warm custard tart straight from the oven, dust it with cinnamon, and eat it standing up. The recipe is a closely guarded secret that hasn’t changed since 1837. It’s worth the trip to Belém for that tart alone.

🎶 Fado — Don’t Skip This (but on my tours we do Fado in Coimbra)

On one of your evenings, find a small restaurant in Alfama where the lights are low and the chairs are pushed close together. When the fadista takes the floor and begins to sing — accompanied only by the Portuguese guitar — the room goes completely silent. Fado is the music of this city: born in these very streets, full of longing, salt air, and something irretrievably lost. Whether you understand a word or not, it will reach you. This is one of those experiences that no amount of reading about it can prepare you for. You just have to go.

🍽️ Eating & Drinking

Lisbon’s food culture will not let you down. Start every morning with a pastel de nata — a warm custard tart — and a bica (a small, strong espresso) at a neighborhood café counter, standing up like a local. For lunch or dinner, look for grilled fish, garlic prawns, or the beloved bacalhau (salt cod) prepared in one of what locals claim are 365 different ways. The wine is excellent and inexpensive — a crisp Vinho Verde on a warm afternoon, a robust Alentejo red with dinner. Small family restaurants are the best bet. Tip generously at the good ones; they deserve it.

💡 One Last Thing

The best tip I can give you for Lisbon doesn’t involve any monument or restaurant. Buy a small bag of ginjinha cherry liqueur chocolates from a street vendor near Alfama, find a set of steps on any hill, and sit down. Watch the light change over the rooftops. Let the city come to you. Lisbon has a pace all its own — unhurried, warm, a little melancholy in the best possible way. The sooner you surrender to it, the better your trip will be. I promise you, you won’t want to leave.

A vintage tram passes by a historic yellow building under a blue sky.

Historic fortress tower with visitors under a blue sky.

The Cinque Terre: Twenty-five years and still loving it!

by David McGuffin | Mar 9, 2026 | Adventures in Tour Guiding, Blog, Culture & Customs, David's Journal, Essential Travel Resources, Experiencing Europe

by David McGuffin

My First Visit to the Cinque Terre

That morning nearly 25 years ago, I woke to delivery vans, Vespas, Apes, and business owners starting their day. Beneath the buzz of engines, I heard the steady sweep of sandals on the street below. Distant waves, gulls, and the occasional boat horn punctuated the soundscape. Today, via Fingina in Monterosso al Mare remains much the same.

A few days earlier, I drove into Cinque Terre from the AutoStrada toll highway about thirty miles north. Charlotte and friends Tippy and Marje joined me on the harrowing, winding mountain roads without safety barriers. We all felt relief reaching the seaside’s flat ground. I was scouting destinations for my European tours.

25 Years and a lot of Changes

Reflecting on those early days, I wrote in my journal, “Monterosso is a tourist town, but out of the way enough to keep crowds away.” Much has changed since then. Cruise ships now bring waves of passengers, flooding villages a few times a week. Trenitalia increased local rail services, transporting thousands into the five villages multiple times daily. Guidebooks continue to boost the Cinque Terre’s fame. Despite this, I still love it!

The rugged coastline of Liguria is dotted with small fishing villages, terraced vineyards, olive groves, and breathtaking vistas. Even as the Cinque Terre has become a popular destination, I still find the locals devoted to their customs and traditions. When I’m here, it’s almost impossible not to set my sightseeing plans aside, relax, and embrace a true Italian vacation in this region.

A Bit of History

The Cinque Terre—or “five lands”—is a loose group of villages on Italy’s northern Ligurian Sea. For centuries, residents lived off land and sea. Castles from the Middle Ages protected land barons and serfs. Raiders and pirates often kidnapped locals for slavery or ransom. In the Renaissance, villagers grew more independent, focusing on fishing, vineyards, and olive groves.

The steep, rocky mountains aren’t ideal for farming, but isolation forced locals to adapt. They built hundreds of miles of terrace gardens, all supported by freestanding stone walls.

The five villages are linked by trails winding through vineyards, gardens, and lemon and olive groves. These trails were originally built to access terraced gardens and provide transportation between villages.

Today, this area is a national park that balances tourism and conservation. It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. To help fund park projects, a permit is required for trail use, and we provide it to all our guests.

Why I Still Go to the Cinque Terre today, and why you should go with me!

Cinque Terre still draws me back yearly. When Charlotte and I vacation in Italy, we often rent an apartment in Monterosso and relax. The villages are crowded by day, but evenings bring magical al fresco dining, wine bars, parks, and locals mingling. We spend our days in rented beach chairs. The hiking trails between Monterosso and Vernazza, and around Manarola, are challenging but rewarding. Hopping between villages by train or boat is a great way to enjoy the region’s scenery, art, cuisine, and coast. And since last year, the “Via della Amore” has reopened between Riomaggiore and Manarola.

Join me for an unforgettable experience—reserve your spot on my Best of Italy and Essence of Italy tours now! Let’s explore the Cinque Terre together—book your adventure today.

—

David McGuffin has been leading small-group tours to Europe for nearly 50 years. His mission is to encourage Americans to broaden their cultural mindset through engaging and exciting travel experiences. Learn more about his tours at davidmcguffin.com.

Join a McGuffin Tour to the Cinque Terre & Italy - Click here

Watch David’s “Cinque Terre” Episode from his Best of Italy Video Series.

1977 Lunch in Rome on flight layover to Athens

Sunny beach with orange umbrellas and clear blue water.

People relaxing by the seaside in a picturesque coastal town under clear blue skies.

Tom Hickinbotham - The Cinque Terre

Afraid to Travel? It’s Much Ado About Nothing!

by David McGuffin | Jan 9, 2026 | Blog, Culture & Customs, Essential Travel Resources, Experiencing Europe

by David McGuffin

I spend several months on the road in Europe each year. I’m either leading tours, checking in on my tour groups, or doing my own travel and research. One of the joys of travel, especially when I’m on the road in Europe, is avoiding the never-ending doom-and-gloom news reports from around the world, especially from the USA. At home, I have friends who have those cable news channels running 24/7 and believe everything that’s put out on the daily talking points. Then there are others who believe everything that appears on social media sites is the gospel truth. I can’t tell you how many times I get asked, “Is it ok to travel over there?” or “Don’t you feel unsafe with all that’s going on in the world?”

This year, all the negative media hype about travel seems worse than usual. I’ve been reading these headlines, listening to the hand-wringing, and watching friends and acquaintances second-guess their travel plans. I spoke to a friend the other day who usually takes his students on a music performance tour with us every few years. So, when I reached out to him about his 2027 plans, he said there was no interest in his community to go anywhere with all that’s going on in the world. It’s frustrating, because I know it’s nonsense.

The real story…

In 2025, I crisscrossed Europe, from Ireland to Italy, from Portugal to Budapest. Not once did I feel unsafe or out of place. I found Europeans living their own lives. Tourists from all over the world enjoying themselves. Streets filled with laughter, cafes buzzing with conversation, and Christmas markets sparkling under winter lights.

The idea that Europeans are sitting around waiting to give Americans the cold shoulder because of our political situation back home is laughable. In my almost fifty years of traveling Europe, I’ve witnessed plenty of political ups and downs on both sides of the Atlantic. Europeans have seen it all before, too, and they, just like us, are too busy living their own lives to spend time judging American tourists. Sure, there might be occasional political conversations if you bring them up. But Europeans are welcoming people, and tourism is a vital part of their economy. They want you there. Your dollars, euros, and presence are appreciated.

Recently, I’ve settled in for 30+ days in a small Bavarian town near Munich. This is a first for me, because my overnight stays on tour are typically two to three consecutive nights. My point is, here in this town, I’ve begun to feel like a local. The grocer knows me, the lady at the pizzeria knows what wine I like, the hotel staff are very kind, and on and on. Everyone recognizes the “Amerikan” whose wife is in the hospital up the hill. But, instead of grilling me on politics or the state of the world, most folks like to use me as a chance to try out their English!

I was in Portugal for Easter. I’ve walked the streets of Florence, Siena, and Palermo. I explored Christmas markets in Prague and Munich. I stood on O’Connell Street in Dublin, wandered down Grafton Street, and ate Shepherd’s Pie in Temple Bar. Not once did anyone treat me differently because I’m American. Not once did I feel unwelcome.

Year after year, the Europeans I encounter are warm, friendly, and eager to share their culture. They asked about where we were from, recommended their favorite restaurants, and helped us navigate their cities. I’ve been doing this for almost fifty years, through multiple US presidential administrations from both parties, and I can tell you that European hospitality toward Americans remains as strong as ever.

It’s more expensive to travel in 2026.

It’s true, Europe is more expensive than it was a few years ago. Prices have gone up everywhere, from hotels to restaurants to admissions. Economic uncertainty and rising costs have affected international travel planning, and many Americans are indeed adjusting their travel habits. But just like at home, European destinations have expensive options and budget alternatives. A spritz with a view costs the same whether there’s drama at home or not. A morning cappuccino in a quiet piazza doesn’t care about the state of the world or its politics.

Forget the media hype and trust the boots-on-the-ground information.

There are many like me who spend a good part of our lives traveling outside the USA. Without exception, each will tell you, “Go while you can and travel without fear.” We live in a world hyped up and driven by a media that thrives and makes money on anxiety and fear. The headline, “Americans are Having a Wonderful Time in Europe,” doesn’t make for a clickable headline. But “Should Americans Be Afraid to Travel to Europe?” does.

I recently encountered a fellow in Italy who was on one of those big bus group tours visiting Rome. He was worn out, hot, and overwhelmed, but you know what he wasn’t? Scared. He wasn’t worried about being American. He was just tired from trying to see too much too fast, which is a completely different problem and one I help people avoid with our small group tours.

OK, just go!

If you’ve been dreaming of seeing the Eiffel Tower, walking through the ruins of the Roman Forum, standing before the David in Florence, or sipping a pint in an Irish pub, don’t let these overblown stories stop you. Don’t let fear-mongering headlines steal your dreams. Instead, book your trip, seize the moment, and go have the time of your life!

I’ve built my entire career on encouraging Americans to broaden their cultural horizons through engaging and exciting travel experiences in Europe. I wouldn’t do that if I thought it was unsafe, unwelcoming, or unwise.

Europe is open for business. The cobblestone streets are still there. The museums are still filled with masterpieces. The cafes still serve excellent apertivi. The views from mountaintops still take your breath away. And the Europeans are still welcoming visitors without judgment. So pack your bags, book that flight, and get ready for the adventure of a lifetime. Europe is waiting. I’ll see you there.

—

Prost from the Hofbraühaus

A man and woman looking out into Lake Como.

Mount Etna and the Gambino Family winery

by David McGuffin | Jan 8, 2026 | Blog, Destinations, Eating & Drinking, Experiencing Europe

by David McGuffin

I was up on Mount Etna with my Sicilian friend, Paolo, a few months ago. After winding through the lava fields and trekking down into a crater, we had had all the cold and desolate volcanic slopes we could stand for the day. So we headed back down the northern slope of Etna to the Gambino family winery.

The Gambino estate sits at about 2,600 feet above sea level on the eastern slope of Mount Etna, perched right there in the National Park with views stretching across the Taormina coastline and the Mediterranean. Getting there means winding your way up mountain roads through volcanic landscape, and I won’t lie to you—the drive can be a bit nerve-wracking if you’re not used to mountain driving. But the moment you arrive and see those terraced vineyards spreading out with the sea glittering in the distance, you understand why this place is special.

Here’s what makes Gambino extraordinary. This is a family operation that’s been at it for over twenty years, with the Raciti Gambino siblings—Francesco, Filadelfo, and Mariagrazia—pouring their hearts into every aspect of the winery. Francesco grew up watching his parents buy land piece by piece on Etna, and his mother Maria came from a long line of Etna vintners. You can taste it in the wines, and you can feel it in how the family welcomes visitors. When Filadelfo takes you down into their cellar—carved ten meters deep into volcanic rock—and explains their winemaking philosophy, you’re not getting a corporate tour. You’re getting invited into their passion.

The volcanic terroir here is remarkable. The soil is rich with minerals from Etna’s eruptions, and those high-altitude vineyards get that dramatic temperature swing between day and night that’s crucial for developing complex flavors in the grapes. They’re working with indigenous varieties—Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio for the reds, Carricante and Catarratto for the whites. The Tifeo Etna Rosso has this beautiful pale ruby color with aromas that just keep unfolding—cherry, leather, coffee, vanilla. And the Tifeo Etna Bianco? It’s got this bright citrus character with touches of pepper. I could taste the soil and the sea breeze in it.

We booked their full experience—the wine tasting paired with food. They serve you five wines alongside a three-course meal of traditional Sicilian specialties, and their sommeliers know how to guide you through the pairings without being pretentious about it. The antipasti plate and the lentil and chickpea soup were perfect pairings with the wine. And that view from their terrace? Breathtaking doesn’t quite cover it. You’re looking out over terraced vineyards with the Mediterranean spread out before you, and you’re tasting wines that couldn’t come from anywhere else on earth.

The Gambino siblings practice sustainable viticulture—hand-picking their grapes, using natural pest control, doing things the way their parents and grandparents would recognize. But they’re not stuck in the past. They’ve married traditional methods with modern techniques to create wines that speak authentically to this place while meeting international quality standards. You can find their wines in restaurants, but experiencing them here, where they’re made, is something entirely different.

What I love about bringing people to Gambino is that authenticity. There’s no pretense here, no over-the-top wine snobbery. Just a family that loves what they do, making exceptional wines in one of the most dramatic settings you’ll find anywhere. They welcome you like you’re visiting their home—because you are. After your tasting and tour, you can browse their shop, stock up on bottles (they ship worldwide), and maybe grab some of their olive oil, which comes from trees growing at the same altitude as the vines.

The winery gets busy, especially in summer, so I suggest booking ahead. And yes, it takes effort to get there. But that effort is part of what makes it memorable. This isn’t a quick stop on a tour bus circuit. It’s a genuine experience with people who have deep roots in this volcanic soil, who’ve been dealing with Etna’s challenges and gifts for generations, and who make wines that taste like nowhere else on earth.