Most tourists miss this church. Next time you are around, pop in to see some fantastic sculptures and paintings. You’ll find works here by Raphael, Bernini and Caravaggio (all “in situ”). The Cerasi Chapel displays Caravaggio’s “Crucifixion of St. Peter” done in his characteristic style of darkness and light.
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Day 14
The Trevi Fountain
This fountain is perhaps one of the most widely recognized landmarks in Rome. It has freshly emerged from a 2.2 million euro cleaning sponsored by Fendi, an Italian fashion company. I snapped this photo, early on a Sunday morning, just before the tourist onslaught.
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Day 15
An early morning trek through Rome
Charlotte and I got out for a little exercise and found these spots delightful without the traffic and tourists.
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Day 16
Siena’s Duomo and the “secret” panoramic view point and some silly David bloopers. Click the image below to see the video.
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Day 17
Hiking in the Cinque Terre
Hiking the trails in Liguria offers the perfect mix of sun, sea and the outdoors. Click the image below to see the video.
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Day 18
Ristorante Al Castillo
My friends Monica and Massimo have struggled to keep their restaurant open since the massive flood in September 2011. I was happy to be one of their first diners on opening day of the grand re-opening last week. Super-tasty food- Seafood salad and lasagna al pesto.
I’ve headed back to Rome for the first time this year. The non-event here is that Joe Biden is in town. I only heard about it from the American news channels and the Romans don’t seem to care.
The Piazza del Popolo is just inside the ancient northern gate to Rome. These days, it is a bit off the main tourist track and marks the northern end of “il corso” the main street upon which the Romans take their evening “passeggiata” stroll.
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Day 10
The Borghese Gardens are situated on the north side of Rome near the Piazza del Popolo. If you are sick and tried of the city heat and tourist crowds, the Borghese Gardens are a welcomed relief. Rent a boat, a bike or even a rickshaw (riscio) and enjoy the peace and quiet.
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Day 11
Enjoy an elegant villa and the surrounding gardens with a panoramic view over the Piazza del Popolo. The villa houses art commissioned for the rooms in which they sit. This is known as “in situ” in Italian. See amazing Baroque sculpture and painting by Raphael, Rubens, Caravaggio and Titian. Try to make a reservation for this living museum the next time you are in Rome.
The Ponte Vecchio, or “old bridge” spans the Arno River in Florence, Italy. There has been a bridge here since Roman times. It has been destroyed several times by floods (1117 and 1333) but always rebuilt. The bridge we see today is the work of Giorgio Vasari, a noted artist from the city, and dates from 1345. The bridge has always been a place for merchants to sell their wares. Initially this was done by placing their table (banco in Italian) on the bridge and displaying their products. The elevated shops that can been seen from this vantage point (upriver) were added in the 17th century.
Today, the bridge is filled with tourists, jewelers and souvenir shops. It is a very popular destination and crowded during the day. To experience it at its best, visit early in the morning (before 8:00) or at night after the shops close.
It is amazing what a chef can do with simple food, especially when there are fantastic ingredients. Recently, I visited Montecatini Alto, a small hilltown outside of Florence. I decided to have lunch at a little outdoor café known as CASA GALA. There were several restaurants from which to choose, but Casa Gala drew me in because of its inviting outdoor garden feel with olive trees, flowers and simple table décor.
I ordered a small menu, caprese for a started and pici con olio e pepe alle salvia. That translates to tomato and mozzarella salad and thick spaghetti with oil, pepper and sage. Everything was tasty and fresh, just as expected. The caprese was presented accompanied by a hollowed tomato “bowl” filled with a fresh and creamy cheese. I will go here again!
Montacatini Terme is a spa town located between Florence and Pisa. For many, it provides more affordable hotel alternatives than staying in Florence. Today, I explored the town and then took the finuculare up to the charming village in the mountains know as Montacatini Alto.
Volterra is my favorite hilltown in Tuscany. Years ago, arrived in town for the first time, met new friends in the local bar and have been coming back ever since. One of those friends was Genuino who owned a restaurant and wine bar in town. Since that first meeting, Genuino, along with his wife Ivanna and daughter Claudia, have become my good friends. Since that first meeting, the Del Duca family have built a small B&B outside of town and developed a world-class vineyard producing award winning wines.
I’ve spent the last few days enjoying the the countryside around the Del Duca’s agriturismo. They have named it “Marcampo” and offer rooms and apartments for rent. It is a lovely place to slow down for a few days in Tuscany.
Day 14
Day 18
