by David McGuffin | Nov 11, 2008 | Culture & Customs, Experiencing Europe
OK, I’ve finally given in to Starbucks. For ten years now, I’ve shrugged off the Starbucks “ambiance” simply because I really don’t like coffee all that much. But in the last few months, I’ve enjoyed a cappuccino and free WIFI complements of Starbucks. There is also an added bonus of the free mp3 iTunes downloads every Tuesday.
Why I am onto Starbucks? Well in the spring of 2006, I traveled with a group of high school students in France and Spain. Everyday, I lamented at the coincidental passing of a Starbuck store. No matter whether it be in Paris, Lucerne, or Madrid, the “kids” always migrated to a nearby Starbucks. Even if the Eiffel Tower or Plaza Mayor was sure to appear around the next corner, Starbucks always won out. All I can figure out is that Starbucks provides an “Americana” taste of home in a foreign land.
European coffee is strong. Regardless of the county you’re visiting, it is sure to give you a supercharged jolt of caffeine. Coffee varies according to the season. Take Greece for example; could it be they invented the “frappucino?” Visit Athens in July or August, and you’ll find the locals drinking their special blend of very strong iced coffee. By noon, when it is unbearably hot, you still find the locals sipping their own brand of “frappucino.” But come sunset, you’ll find lots of men sitting neighborhood cafes sipping their own hot coffee.
In Italy, any self-respecting local would never think of drinking anything but a quick shot of espresso after noon. Italian cafes, bars, and even highway rest stops serve some of the best espresso to be found. Espresso is a highly concentrated coffee served in a little “one sip” cup. It’s simple to get a shot, but you’ve got to know the system: go to the cash register, order your drink, pay your bill, take the receipt to the coffee counter, and give it to the barista. Soon, you’ll have a frothy dark brown liquid served up in a tiny cup and saucer. Don’t sit, stand at the highrise table and enjoy.
Want a cappuccino? Italians would never think of drinking one outside the morning hours. I’ve heard it said on many occasions that only tourists drink a cappuccino after noon.
Spain is the same, except the coffee is stronger and more concentrated! France is a little better with its “French-Pressed” coffee, but it is still stronger than what we get in North America.
Germany has tempered their morning coffee to North American standards. Their coffee most closely resembles what we have in North America. But, that’s not quite true in Vienna where coffeehouses were first modeled after those in Turkey. Here you’ll find rich, full-bodied coffee which will give a “caffeine buzz” quicker than any I’ve ever experienced.
The bottom line is that coffee is not just coffee, each country has its own twist to the coffee grinder. But, you can always count on it being different than what you get at home. Enjoy and savor… it’s truly European!
-David
by David McGuffin | Oct 11, 2008 | Culture & Customs, Eating & Drinking
When traveling in Europe, I think half the thrill is experiencing good food and good drink with good friends. Over the years, I’ve developed this uncanny knack for searching out and finding cool little places to eat and drink. My rule is always go for the local stuff. To do that, you’ve often got to get out of your comfort zone, venture sometimes into the unknown, and even be willing to accept embarrassment or ridicule… but the pay-off is most always worth the effort.
Eating in Ireland is a lot different than it used to be. We’ve all heard stories about the Irish living on nothing but potatoes, stew, whiskey, and Guinness, but all that has changed in the last 15 years or so. Now-a-days you can have a traditional “pub grub” experience or a gourmet meal all within 100 meters. Ireland has the fastest growing economy in all the European Union and consequently, many fine restaurants have opened their doors on this formerly poor island in the north Atlantic.
Tonight I’ll confine my comments to traditional pub food. Later, I’ll address the diverse multicultural dining choices that rival anywhere I’ve ever traveled.
PUB GRUB
Earlier in a previous blog entered, I discussed how to get a drink at a pub. Before the pub served only drinks, now it serves food. Traditionally, food is served in a pub from noon to 8:30 or 9:00 p.m. Before and after that, only drinks are sold… HA, go figure. So, you might wonder what is there to eat at a pub in Ireland? I’ll give a rather broad answer based on my extensive pub dining experiences.
There are two types of pubs: those for the locals, and those for the tourists. Sometimes if you are lucky you’ll happen to fall on a mix of the two, but then you’ve got to be very careful not to offend the drunken local patrons (usually men and women in their 60’s). Just keep your cool and take it all in.
Here is a typical pub menu:
Fish and Chips – fried fresh cod and french fries
Irish Stew – lamb and potatoes in a rich broth
Beef and Guinness Pie – chunks of beef, mushrooms, carrots and onions in a rich Guinness and thyme sauce.
Bangers and Mash – pork sausages served with mash potato and onion gravy.
Boiled Bacon and Cabbage – enough said.
Seafood Chowder – usually in a white sauce
Joint of the Day – a roasted delight of beef or pork served with veggies. Although it sounds yucky, it really is tender and tasty. Each pub has its specialty and there is certainly more to every menu, but I think this covers the basic “pub grub” server up in Irish pubs. These meals normally cost no more than 10-12 euro per plate.
Ordering food is different than ordering a drink. Simply walk into the pub (during eating hours), grab a seat and someone will come and take your food order. Often you’ll have to place your drink order at the bar, but even that is changing with the “new” Ireland. Once your order arrives, often from the basement kitchen below, dig in and enjoy.
Here’s a hint… don’t eat too much if you plan to stay for the “trad session” (traditional music) later because then you’ll want to have a pint in your hand and a spring in your step. Too much stew can spoil the experience!! Trust me, I speak from experience.
Many pubs are getting mighty “uppity” in modern-day Ireland. Take the Brazen Head in Dublin for example. This is the oldest pub in Ireland, according to the promotional material. Yet it is loaded with tourists and its dining menu is is filled with so many “gourmet” choices I have a hard time deciding if I’m in a pub or a fine restaurant. Add in the semi-traditional music and you’ve got a tourist trap nightmare.
In my next entry I’ll recommend some of my favorite pubs around Ireland.
-David
**You can add your two-cents worth by clicking on the comments link below.**
by David McGuffin | Sep 23, 2008 | Eating & Drinking, Experiencing Europe
When traveling in Europe, I think half the thrill is experiencing good food and good drink with good friends. Over the years, I’ve developed this uncanny knack for searching out and finding cool little places to eat and drink. My rule is always go for the local stuff. To do that you’ve often got to get out of your comfort zone, venture sometimes into the unknown, and even be willing to accept embarrassment or ridicule… but the pay-off is most always worth the effort. I wrote this article in 2003 after returning from a trip to Ireland.
REFLECTIONS FROM MY “THE BEST OF IRELAND” TOUR – MAY 2003
IRELAND: The Irish people take pride in their heritage and the hard times they have endured. As we drove about the island I was saddened at the old landmarks which draw a vivid picture of the harsh history which the Irish have endured. Yet I was also pleased to see signs of great change due to the rapid growth of the Irish economy in the past few years, coupled with the people’s deep desire to preserve the past for future generations.
We spent some time in Doolin near the end of our tour. You’ve got to be going to Doolin to get to Doolin. It is located in County Clare just 500 meters from the rugged Atlantic coast. Life here for hundreds of years has been tough and hard to bear. The land is too rugged for crops. During the famine the English overlords banned many a Irish soul to this God forsaken place.
Doolin, in the last 20 years, has become an outpost for traditional Irish music. Its three pubs (that’s the extent of the town) host Irish musicians each night. These musicians entertain the locals and tourist alike with gigs, reels, waltzes, and folk songs. All you have to do to enjoy the scene is show up about 9 p.m. and work your way into a seat.
Many people from my groups have become experts at the pubs over the past 10 days. Here are some hints we think will help make your visit to an Irish pub a most enjoyable experience.
1. GRAND ENTRANCE – When you walk into a pub in the early evening (before 8:30 p.m.) everyone will stop what they are doing and look at you! (Remember the word PUB is short for ‘Public Place’. This is where people gather to talk about the day’s news, to discuss who died and who left town). Don’t be afraid. Hold your ground and proceed to step two.
2. DON’T SIT DOWN!! STEP UP TO THE BAR – Nobody is going to wait on you at a table. Sitting at a table means you want to be left alone. In order to get a food or a drink, you’ve got to work your way through the crowd and up to the bar. When you get there the bartender will not wait on you until you make EYE CONTACT and give a sign that you’re ready to order.
3. ORDER YOUR DRINK – Once you’ve completed step two above, now you’re ready to order. Speak up over the crowd and state you’re order. For example: a pint of Smithwick’s will get you the ale brewed in Kilkenny. DON’T SAY SMITH-WICK’S….IT’S “SMID-ICKS”. If you just say you want a pint, you’ll most likely get the dark stout known as GUINNESS. Don’t ask what’s on tap… the taps are right in front of you. Remember, speak up over the crowd.
4. DON’T BE IMPATIENT – BARTENDERS TAKE THEIR TIME. – It takes a good five minutes or so to get a drink. Drawing just the right pint of stout is an art form. The bartender will usually fill the glass 2/3 full and let it sit for a few minutes then come back and put the finishing “head” on the top.
5. STAND AT THE BAR. – If you want to meet people stand at the bar, talk to people, and ask questions. It will amaze you how many people you’ll make friends with in an evening.
6. MAKING CONVERSATION… CRAIC….WILL USUALLY GET YOU FREE DRINKS – Three young ladies were with me on tour last month. They AND their boyfriends scored free drinks almost every night by being friendly and flashing those pearly whites.
7. TAP YOUR FOOT! – There will always be music — enjoy it!
**You can add your two-cents worth by clicking on the comments link below.**
by David McGuffin | Sep 22, 2008 | Eating & Drinking, Experiencing Europe
When traveling in Europe, I think half the thrill is experiencing good food and good drink with good friends. Over the years, I’ve developed this uncanny knack for searching out and finding cool little places to eat and drink. My rule is to always go for the local stuff. To do that you’ve often got to get out of your comfort zone, venture sometimes into the unknown, and even be willing to accept embarrassment or ridicule… but the pay-off is most always worth the effort.
IRELAND – When I think of Ireland my mind conjures up visions of rolling hills, pristine mountains, forty shades for green, pub musicians, good craic, hearty food, and good drinking. It’s no secret that the Irish know how to have a good time. It’s in their blood, part of their culture, and a part of their heritage.
There are basically two kinds of drinks in Ireland: beer or Irish Whiskey. Yes, now-a-days with their new-found wealth you’ll find lots of wine and even mixed drinks like we have back home, but the staple of the country has and will always be beer or Irish whiskey.
I use the term beer rather loosely when referring to this brew because in Ireland, one would never just go up to a bar and order a “beer.” You’ve got to be more specific and specify the brand name. Really none of it is classified as beer anyway. Usually you’ll have a choice of a stout like Guiness or Murphey’s, or an ale like Swithwick’s or Kilkenny. There are other local ales and stouts spread throughout Ireland, but the four mentioned about seem to abound nationwide.
To a connoisseur, Irish Whiskey differs greatly from Scotch or Bourborn. It is most often triple distilled giving it a smooth and pleasant glide down to your belly. I was recently in an Irish pub with some friends who wanted to do “girlie shots” like we have back home. No such thing was to be found so their choice was Jameson’s or Bushmill’s (both Irish Whiskey). I think they’ll agree it did the job and warmed ’em up as it was going down.
Some of the most common Irish Whiskies are: Jamesons, Powers, Paddy, Midleton, Old Bushmills, Black Bush, 1608, and Bushmills 10, 12, 16, and 21-year-old single malts. All have certain distilling characteristics that give them a unique taste all their own.
So there you have it, all you really need to know about pub drinking in Ireland. I’ve got a tour I’m putting together for June 2010 which I’m calling the “Thirsty Traveler’s” Tour. It’s going to hit several “cultural pockets” of Europe where we’ll focus on eating and drinking well. Stay tuned for details.
-David
**You can add your two-cents worth by clicking on the comments link below.
by David McGuffin | Sep 12, 2008 | Culture & Customs, Experiencing Europe
When traveling in Europe, I think half the thrill is experiencing good food and good drink with good friends. Over the years, I’ve developed this uncanny knack for searching out and finding cool little places to eat and drink. My rule is always go for the local stuff. To do that, you’ve often got to get out of your comfort zone, venture sometimes into the unknown, and even be willing to accept embarrassment or ridicule… but the pay-off is most always worth the effort.
CZECH REPUBLIC – Czech food is heavy. Couple that with a pint or three of their fine pilsner and you’ve got way too much to fill your belly! Honestly, you’ve got to plan your eating strategies when dining on traditional Czech fare. I was in Prague recently and I sat down to lunch on a dreary, rainy day at restaurant U procvaznice, which literally means “the rope maker” in the Czech language. This was the second time I had eaten lunch at this traditional establishment. On this particular day I was in the company of Andrea, a local Prague guide, who had shown me and my group around Prague. After four hours of touring we were ready to eat, and man was this the place to fill up!
Just look at the stuff on my plate in the photo. Roasted pork, potato dumplings, more potatoes, cabbage, all covered with gravy. I bet there was 4000 calories on that plate but believe me, they were fittin’ calories. Here is a sample from this restaurant’s main course menu:
- Tenderloin with cream sauce
- The True Master’s Goulash
- Two Wiener Schnitzel
- A Quarter of Roast Duck
- Old Prague Plate for Two
- Roasted pig’s Leg with Horseradish and mustard
- Pig’s Leg of Bertha the Beauty (Roasted in Beer)
- Piquant Ribs waiting to be Picked Clean
- Fried Trout in Almond Jacket
Click on the link to the U procvaznice website for a complete run down of the restaurant, the history, and the atmosphere. This place is off the normal tourist path, although it is listed in several guide books. On the occasions I’ve eaten here my friends and I have been the only speakers of English. That’s a good recommendation!
-David
**You can add your two-cents worth by clicking on the comments link below.
OK, I’ve finally given in to Starbucks. For ten years now, I’ve shrugged off the Starbucks “ambiance” simply because I really don’t like coffee all that much. But in the last few months, I’ve enjoyed a cappuccino and free WIFI complements of Starbucks. There is also an added bonus of the free mp3 iTunes downloads every Tuesday.