by David McGuffin | Oct 11, 2008 | Culture & Customs, Eating & Drinking
When traveling in Europe, I think half the thrill is experiencing good food and good drink with good friends. Over the years, I’ve developed this uncanny knack for searching out and finding cool little places to eat and drink. My rule is always go for the local stuff. To do that, you’ve often got to get out of your comfort zone, venture sometimes into the unknown, and even be willing to accept embarrassment or ridicule… but the pay-off is most always worth the effort.
Eating in Ireland is a lot different than it used to be. We’ve all heard stories about the Irish living on nothing but potatoes, stew, whiskey, and Guinness, but all that has changed in the last 15 years or so. Now-a-days you can have a traditional “pub grub” experience or a gourmet meal all within 100 meters. Ireland has the fastest growing economy in all the European Union and consequently, many fine restaurants have opened their doors on this formerly poor island in the north Atlantic.
Tonight I’ll confine my comments to traditional pub food. Later, I’ll address the diverse multicultural dining choices that rival anywhere I’ve ever traveled.
PUB GRUB
Earlier in a previous blog entered, I discussed how to get a drink at a pub. Before the pub served only drinks, now it serves food. Traditionally, food is served in a pub from noon to 8:30 or 9:00 p.m. Before and after that, only drinks are sold… HA, go figure. So, you might wonder what is there to eat at a pub in Ireland? I’ll give a rather broad answer based on my extensive pub dining experiences.
There are two types of pubs: those for the locals, and those for the tourists. Sometimes if you are lucky you’ll happen to fall on a mix of the two, but then you’ve got to be very careful not to offend the drunken local patrons (usually men and women in their 60’s). Just keep your cool and take it all in.
Here is a typical pub menu:
Fish and Chips – fried fresh cod and french fries
Irish Stew – lamb and potatoes in a rich broth
Beef and Guinness Pie – chunks of beef, mushrooms, carrots and onions in a rich Guinness and thyme sauce.
Bangers and Mash – pork sausages served with mash potato and onion gravy.
Boiled Bacon and Cabbage – enough said.
Seafood Chowder – usually in a white sauce
Joint of the Day – a roasted delight of beef or pork served with veggies. Although it sounds yucky, it really is tender and tasty. Each pub has its specialty and there is certainly more to every menu, but I think this covers the basic “pub grub” server up in Irish pubs. These meals normally cost no more than 10-12 euro per plate.
Ordering food is different than ordering a drink. Simply walk into the pub (during eating hours), grab a seat and someone will come and take your food order. Often you’ll have to place your drink order at the bar, but even that is changing with the “new” Ireland. Once your order arrives, often from the basement kitchen below, dig in and enjoy.
Here’s a hint… don’t eat too much if you plan to stay for the “trad session” (traditional music) later because then you’ll want to have a pint in your hand and a spring in your step. Too much stew can spoil the experience!! Trust me, I speak from experience.
Many pubs are getting mighty “uppity” in modern-day Ireland. Take the Brazen Head in Dublin for example. This is the oldest pub in Ireland, according to the promotional material. Yet it is loaded with tourists and its dining menu is is filled with so many “gourmet” choices I have a hard time deciding if I’m in a pub or a fine restaurant. Add in the semi-traditional music and you’ve got a tourist trap nightmare.
In my next entry I’ll recommend some of my favorite pubs around Ireland.
-David
**You can add your two-cents worth by clicking on the comments link below.**
by David McGuffin | Sep 12, 2008 | Culture & Customs, Experiencing Europe
When traveling in Europe, I think half the thrill is experiencing good food and good drink with good friends. Over the years, I’ve developed this uncanny knack for searching out and finding cool little places to eat and drink. My rule is always go for the local stuff. To do that, you’ve often got to get out of your comfort zone, venture sometimes into the unknown, and even be willing to accept embarrassment or ridicule… but the pay-off is most always worth the effort.
CZECH REPUBLIC – Czech food is heavy. Couple that with a pint or three of their fine pilsner and you’ve got way too much to fill your belly! Honestly, you’ve got to plan your eating strategies when dining on traditional Czech fare. I was in Prague recently and I sat down to lunch on a dreary, rainy day at restaurant U procvaznice, which literally means “the rope maker” in the Czech language. This was the second time I had eaten lunch at this traditional establishment. On this particular day I was in the company of Andrea, a local Prague guide, who had shown me and my group around Prague. After four hours of touring we were ready to eat, and man was this the place to fill up!
Just look at the stuff on my plate in the photo. Roasted pork, potato dumplings, more potatoes, cabbage, all covered with gravy. I bet there was 4000 calories on that plate but believe me, they were fittin’ calories. Here is a sample from this restaurant’s main course menu:
- Tenderloin with cream sauce
- The True Master’s Goulash
- Two Wiener Schnitzel
- A Quarter of Roast Duck
- Old Prague Plate for Two
- Roasted pig’s Leg with Horseradish and mustard
- Pig’s Leg of Bertha the Beauty (Roasted in Beer)
- Piquant Ribs waiting to be Picked Clean
- Fried Trout in Almond Jacket
Click on the link to the U procvaznice website for a complete run down of the restaurant, the history, and the atmosphere. This place is off the normal tourist path, although it is listed in several guide books. On the occasions I’ve eaten here my friends and I have been the only speakers of English. That’s a good recommendation!
-David
**You can add your two-cents worth by clicking on the comments link below.
by David McGuffin | Sep 6, 2008 | Culture & Customs, Experiencing Europe
When traveling in Europe, I think half the thrill is experiencing good food and good drink with good friends. Over the years I’ve developed this uncanny knack for searching out and finding cool little places to eat and drink. My rule is always go for the local stuff. To do that, you’ve often got to get out of your comfort zone, venture sometimes into the unknown, and even be willing to accept embarrassment or ridicule… but the pay-off is most always worth the effort.
CZECH REPUBLIC – The Czech Republic is known for good lager. Ever since the middle ages many towns, no matter how small, have had their own brand of beer. Last month I was in Český Krumlov and Prague with a small tour group. We had our share of wine in France for the first few days, but the last half of the tour was in “beer” country. First Switzerland, then Austria, and finally the Czech Republic. Pilsner reigns supreme in the Czech Republic. Its light, clear color ranging from pale up to a golden yellow is a treat to the eyes, and the distinct hop aroma is a bouquet for the nose. And the flavor… pure, clean, crisp, with no after taste.
The most popular Czech Pilsners are Pilsner Urquell, Staropramen, and Budweiser. Budweiser is probably most interesting to us Americans. The Czech “Budweiser” and America’s Anheuser-Busch “Budweiser” are miles apart in taste and quality. Where Anheuser-Busch “Budweiser” gives me an immediate headache, the Czech variety is smooth as silk with great taste and flavor. It seems that original Czech Budweiser Bier was founded in 1795 in Budweis, a town in Bohemia (now part of the Czech Republic). This beer was known as Budweiser because it was known to be from the town of Budweis, hence the adjective Budweis-er. In the United States, Anheuser-Busch started using the name Budweiser for its beer in 1876 and two years later they finally decided to register its name. So I guess the long story short is that there has long been a debate over which is the “King of Beers,” beer from Budweis or beer from Anheuser-Busch. For me there is no comparasion. I go for the original and local stuff every time.
**You can add your two-cents worth by clicking on the comments link below.
by David McGuffin | Sep 3, 2008 | Culture & Customs, Experiencing Europe
FREE REFILLS on sodas, sweet tea, and any other beverage is definitely an American thing. There is NO WAY any European restaurant is even going to consider it. Even at McDonald’s, which has restaurants in every major city in Europe, you’ll get a curt “no” or a quizzical look when asking for a refill. So sorry guys, along with no ice, you’ll also get no refills and no sympathy.
**You can add your two-cents worth by clicking on the comments link below.
by David McGuffin | Aug 27, 2008 | Culture & Customs, Experiencing Europe
BIDETS
Most of us Americans get a kick out of an encounter with a bidet. To many, it’s often intriguing, entertaining, funny, or even sexy in an odd sort of way. But in many parts of the world, it’s a normal fixture in the bathroom. In French, bidet is the word for “pony.” Now, how appropriate can that be, because you ride a bidet much like you would a pony. That is… straddling it.
I take a lot of Americans around Europe and believe me, I’ve heard lots of “bidet” stories. Here are some ways in which my tour members have utilized the bidets in their hotel rooms:
a foot washer;- a water fountain;
- a urinal;
- a place to shave one’s legs;
- an object for “truth or dare”;
- a replacement for bathing;
- a laundry;
- a dishwasher; and,
- a cooler for beer.
Bidets originated in France, several centuries ago as a means to wash after using the toilet, after having sex, or even after a day at the office. In short, its purpose is to maintain clean personal hygiene without taking a full shower or bath. So, now you know why lots of Europeans think they are clean when their pits smell to high heaven!
Here’s how to use a bidet:
- Test the water controls before getting on! Some bidets have high pressure jets that squirt up to the ceiling if turned fully on. Others have a faucet similar to a sink. Some have hot and cold water valves while others have just one water valve. The point here is to SLOWLY test out all the knobs, valves, and controls before getting on.
- If you are wearing pants, you have got to take them off! Otherwise hike up your skirt or dress. Then straddle the bidet, facing the wall, so you’ll have full control of the knobs, controls, and valves. Then, by positioning yourself and the faucet, direct the water to the area you want to clean. It’s ok to use soap and your hands. Some people prefer to face away from the wall and manipulate the controls in a contorted manner. I ran across this hilarious video on YouTube that shows you how to do it from a Spaniard’s perspective. Check it out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cunTYbi9yM
- Once finished, use toilet paper to dry off. The towels hanging by the bidet are to dry off your hands after the whole procedure. Don’t stick the towels down there to dry off, or you’ll hear it from the maids the next morning!
OK, that’s was pretty personal, but at least you’ve got no doubt about bidets. Now, go experience some more of Europe!
-David
**You can add your two-cents worth by clicking on the comments link below.
by David McGuffin | Aug 25, 2008 | Culture & Customs
TUBS and SHOWERS
Bathing is necessary and we tend to take it seriously. I mean, how many of you go more than a day without a bath or shower? Well that’s a whole different story in Europe, where daily bathing has just come into vogue in the past few decades. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve stood on crowded subways or buses and have been stifled by body odor. It makes me want to gag just thinking about it. So… it’s no wonder that not much thought goes into planning European bath and shower facilities.
Today, most newly constructed two star hotels in Europe have private baths locate en-suite. Most all three star hotels (old and new) have private baths en-suite. That simply means sometime in the past ten years, a hotel owner has taken an already small room, with no bath or toilet facilities, and installed a room with a sink, toilet, and tub or shower. Now you’ve got a room with en-suite facilities that is smaller than it was originally. But for American travelers, those en-suite facilities are essential. So, here is my “run down” on bathing in each country.
ITALY- Just last week I was checking out some hotels in Italy and ran across a bathroom that had a sink and toilet, then on the same level there was a curtain dividing the shower area. Now having the shower on the same level as the rest of the room is common for Italy. I often laugh because in an Italian bathroom, it is possible to go to the toilet, brush your teeth, and take a shower all at the same time. Well this particular “shower area” had a bidet sticking precariously out from underneath the shower curtain too. Talk about multitasking!
FRANCE- Bathrooms are generally small in France. As with Italy, many of the hotels have retro-fitted bathrooms into already small bedrooms. Most often you’ll find a shower, sink, toilet and bidet. Newer purpose-built hotels now come equipped with modern showers and sometimes even tubs.
SPAIN- Think of Italy without bidets.
GERMANY and AUSTRIA- Bidets are not common here and you’ll also find a better selection of tubs. In many of the larger cities that were destroyed during WWII, you’ll find relatively new and modern hotels featuring bathrooms similar to those back home.
UK- Like France, many of the UK’s hotels are older properties dating from a time when en-suite baths were not common. You’ll find city center hotels similar to those in France. The UK is loaded with B&B’s. These are often private homes located in rural areas that the owners have opened to rent out a room and breakfast. These offer a great value and are usually fixed with up-to-date bath facilities. Although it is still common to find “bathrooms-down-the-hall” in B&B’s it is usually well publicized so you won’t be caught off guard.
IRELAND- Here you’ll find mostly up-to-date hotels and B&B’s. Yes, there are exception, so be sure to look at the sales literature or website before booking.
Now certainly there are exceptions to all rules. Every country mentioned sports fancy four and five star hotels with huge rooms, marbled baths, and air conditioning. You’ll pay a lot extra for this style, but for some it is worth it. I hope I have given you enough insight to select a hotel that meets your needs while traveling in Europe.
-David
Read Part #3 of this article (Bidets).
**You can add your two-cents worth by clicking on the comments link below.
