Spain: Thirteen Days, Eight Cities, and One Unforgetable Country

Spain: Thirteen Days, Eight Cities, and One Unforgetable Country

by David McGuffin

It took Spain a long time to get on my travel radar

I’d been to France dozens of times, Italy even more. But once I started leading tours of the Iberian Peninsula, I kept coming back—and I think I finally know why. There’s a looseness here, a no-rush-about-it attitude that is hard to find anywhere else in Europe. The food is incredible, the history is layered and complicated, and the people seem genuinely happy to have you wandering their streets.  that’s my Best of Spain tour in a nutshell.

Over thirteen days on my Best of Spain tour, we cover eight cities and towns across the length of this massive country — from the modernista madness of Barcelona in the northeast all the way down to the sun-baked, flamenco-fueled streets of Sevilla in the southwest. Here’s a taste of what’s waiting for you.

Barcelona: Gaudí, Gothic, and the Grand Promenade

Barcelona-La Sagrada Familia exterior vignetteWe begin in Barcelona, and honestly, it’s hard to imagine a better opening act. On our first evening, I like to walk the group through the Eixample neighborhood to see Gaudí’s so-called “Block of Discord” — a stretch of modernista buildings that are about as far from boring architecture as you can get. Over dinner at one of my favorite tapas spots, you start to get the feel of the city: loud, social, and very much alive after dark.

Day two is all about Gaudí’s great unfinished cathedral, La Sagrada Família. I’ve stood in front of that building more times than I can count, and it still stops me cold. The façades, the towers, the way light moves through the interior — there is simply nothing else like it in the world. After that, we wander the narrow lanes of the Gothic Quarter, out to the harbor promenade, and then the rest of the day is yours. Barcelona rewards wanderers.

Madrid: The Royal Capital at Its Best

Madrid-Plaza MajorA high-speed AVE train whisks us from Barcelona to Madrid in just a few hours — and yes, the train is genuinely part of the fun. Madrid is the heart of the country, and we give it the time it deserves: four nights.

On arrival, we head straight for the Palacio Real, the Royal Palace. With over 3,400 rooms, it is the largest functioning royal palace in Western Europe. The sheer scale of the place tends to make jaws drop. The next morning, we meet a local guide at the Prado Museum for a personal tour of its greatest works — Velázquez, Goya, and El Greco. No rushing. No tour bus crowds. Just good art and good conversation.

The rest of your time in Madrid is yours to fill. Find a café on the Plaza Mayor, duck into a neighborhood taberna, and discover the Retiro Park. Madrid is a city that rewards people who slow down.

Segovia: Cool, Quiet, and Completely Worth It

Segovia- AcquductOne of the best decisions I made years ago was to add a day trip to Segovia to this tour. Just a short train ride north of Madrid, Segovia sits at nearly 3,000 feet of elevation — which means even in summer, the air is crisp, and the pace is distinctly unhurried.

The Roman Aqueduct is the star of the show: 2,500 feet long, nearly 100 feet high, and built from 20,000 precisely cut granite stones stacked without a drop of mortar — two thousand years ago. No scaffolding, no power tools, no mortar. It still stands. We also wander up to the fairy-tale Alcázar, the hilltop castle that is said to have inspired Walt Disney, and the elegant Gothic Cathedral right on the main plaza. For lunch, we sit down to the regional specialty — roasted suckling pig. Don’t be shy about it. It’s extraordinary.

Toledo: The City of Three Cultures

Toledo vistaToledo is only thirty minutes from Madrid by high-speed train, but in every other sense, it is a world apart. For centuries, Christians, Muslims, and Jews lived and worked side by side here, and you can feel that layered history in every lane and doorway.

The Cathedral of Toledo is one of the great Gothic churches of the world — massive, dark, full of treasures. But I love Toledo just as much for the wandering: the crooked medieval streets, the sword-makers’ shops, the views from the old city walls out over the Tagus River below. We make a full day of it before heading back to Madrid for the evening.

Granada: Where the Moors Left Their Greatest Gift

The Best of Spain: Granada AlhambraA fast train carries us south to Granada and the heart of Andalucía. On arrival, we visit the Royal Chapel, where Ferdinand and Isabella — the monarchs who united Spain and sent Columbus west — lie in their lavish tombs. It’s a surprisingly intimate and moving place.

But the next morning is what everyone has been waiting for: The Alhambra. I’ve been through it many times, and I still find it breathtaking. This sprawling Moorish palace complex, perched on a forested hilltop above the city, is without question one of the most beautiful places on earth. The tilework, the carved stucco, the reflecting pools, the Generalife gardens — the artistry is extraordinary. Plan on spending the better part of the day.

Nerja: One Day, No Agenda, Just the Sea

Evening at a lively waterfront promenade with palm trees and lights.After the grand palaces and cathedrals, I always love watching the group arrive in Nerja. This little beach town on the Costa del Sol is our one deliberate day off — no sightseeing agenda, no guided tours, no checklist. Just a pretty cliff-top town, sandy beaches, a small central plaza, and the Mediterranean stretching out in every direction.

Find a chair and umbrella on the beach. Read a book. Have a long lunch with a glass of something cold. That’s the whole plan, and it’s a good one.

Arcos de la Frontera: Spain’s Most Spectacular Hilltop Village

ArcosThe mountains between Granada and Sevilla are dotted with whitewashed villages perched high in the hills, and my favorite of all of them is Arcos de la Frontera. We set up here for an afternoon and evening, and the views from the old town ramparts — out over the Andalusian countryside — are the kind that make you reach for your camera and then realize no photo will do it justice.

The cobbled lanes are ancient and narrow, the whitewashed houses glow in the afternoon light, and dinner at the top of the hill, watching the sun go down over the valley, is one of those moments the group always talks about afterward.

Sevilla: A Grand Finale

Night view of a historic cathedral illuminated against the dark sky.We save the biggest finish for last. Sevilla — capital of Andalucía and arguably the most passionate city in Spain — gives us two full nights to take it all in.

On our first day, we walk the whitewashed lanes of the Barrio Santa Cruz, the old Jewish quarter, and visit the Cathedral of Sevilla — the largest Gothic church in the Christian world, with a tower you can climb for sweeping views over the rooftops. That evening, we will settle in for a live flamenco performance. After a few days in Andalucía, you start to understand where this music comes from — the emotion, the drama, the raw intensity of it.

Our second day features a tour of the Real Alcázar, the Moorish-influenced royal palace that has been home to Spanish monarchs for more than five hundred years. Then the afternoon is free — wander, shop, sit on a terrace with a fino sherry and watch the city go by. That evening, we gather for our farewell dinner, raise a glass, and toast thirteen days of Spain done right.

Ready to Go?

Granada- David Toasting the evening Alhambra in the backgroundMy Best of Spain tour runs in September/October 2026 and again in spring and fall 2027. Small groups, authentic dining, and no rushing through the good stuff. Find dates and details here.

Spain rewards the traveler who pays attention to the food, the history, and the unhurried rhythms of daily life. Thirteen days is just enough time to fall in love with this country. Plenty of my travelers have come back for more.

I hope to see you there.

David

 

Barcelona-La Sagrada Familia exterior vignette
Barcelona-La Sagrada Familia interior
The Best of Spain: Granada Alhambra
Madrid-Plaza Major
Madrid-Tio Pepe Billboard
Segovia- Acquduct
Segovia-Alcarzar
Segovia-Suckling Pig
Segovia-Cathedral at night
Toledo-Tapas
Lisbon — Where the Old World Meets the Edge of the Sea

Lisbon — Where the Old World Meets the Edge of the Sea

by David McGuffin

Lisbon — Where the Old World Meets the Edge of the Sea

Lisbon is not my most favorite city in Europe, but it does have this crusty, old-world charm that always beckons me to explore its hilltops, back streets, and grand boulevards. The first time I walked through Alfama — the old Moorish quarter draped across Lisbon’s steepest hill — I didn’t want to leave. As the afternoon turned into evening, the vhino verde and vistas would not let me leave. There’s something about this city that feels both ancient and completely alive. It moves at its own pace, it sounds like no other place on earth, and it will feed you extraordinarily well. If you’re going for a few days, you’re in for a treat. Here’s what I’d put at the top of my list.

🏰 Alfama & Castelo de São Jorge

Start at the top, literally. Castelo de São Jorge sits atop Lisbon’s highest hill, a Moorish fortress that has watched over this city for a thousand years. Arrive right at opening — 9AM — and for a brief window, you’ll have the battlements nearly to yourself. The views from up there are the best in the city, a full sweep of terracotta rooftops rolling down to the wide silver ribbon of the Tagus River. And keep an eye out, because peacocks roam the grounds freely, as if they own the place. They might.
On your way back downhill, stop into the Sé Cathedral. It’s Portugal’s oldest church, dating all the way back to 1147, and it looks the part — thick Romanesque walls, a stern facade, built to last through earthquakes and invasions alike. It has.
From there, just wander. That’s really the only instruction for Alfama. The neighborhood is a maze of narrow cobblestone lanes, faded azulejo tiles, and sun-bleached laundry strung between buildings. You’ll get lost. That’s the point.

🚋 Tram 28

At some point, you need to ride Tram 28. Not because of where it takes you, but because of what it is — a rattling, century-old yellow streetcar that hauls itself up and down impossibly steep streets, squeezing through lanes so narrow it nearly brushes the walls on both sides. Locals actually use it, which tells you something. Hang on tight, keep a hand on your pocket, and let it carry you through a slice of the city that most tourists see only from the outside.

🌅 The Miradouros — Lisbon’s Great Viewpoints

Lisbon is built on seven hills, and the locals have turned the best viewpoints into a civic ritual. They call them miradouros, and you need to visit at least two of them. Miradouro de Santa Luzia is the classic — a tiled terrace covered in bougainvillea, with red rooftops tumbling below you toward the river. It’s beautiful, especially in the late afternoon light. But if I had to pick just one, I’d send you to Miradouro da Senhora do Monte. It sits at the highest point in the city, it’s less crowded than the others, and on a clear evening at sunset the sky goes orange and pink and the whole city glows. There are usually pop-up drink vendors and sometimes live music. Grab something cold, find a spot on the wall, and stay as long as you can.

🏛️ Praça do Comércio & the Heart of the City

Walk down to the river, and you’ll arrive at Praça do Comércio — one of Europe’s grandest public squares, opening directly onto the Tagus. It’s framed by elegant golden arcades on three sides and the wide river on the fourth. Stand there for a moment and let the scale of it sink in. This is where Lisbon faces the sea that once made it the center of a global empire stretching from Brazil to India. The triumphal Rua Augusta Arch anchors the opposite end — climb to the top if you want another great view. At golden hour, with the river light bouncing off the buildings, the whole square turns honey-colored and magnificent.

🌿 The Carmo Convent

A short walk uphill into the Chiado neighborhood, you’ll find something I think is one of the most quietly extraordinary sights in all of Portugal. The Carmo Convent is a Gothic church that stands completely roofless — its elegant stone arches open to the sky, with ivy slowly climbing the walls. The 1755 earthquake brought the roof down, and the decision was made to simply leave it that way. There’s now a small archaeological museum inside. But the real experience is just standing in what used to be the nave, looking up at nothing but the open sky framed by eight-hundred-year-old stone. It stops you in your tracks.

⛵ Belém — Half a Day Well Spent

Take the tram or bus about six kilometers west along the river to the district of Belém, and you’re stepping into the heart of Portugal’s Age of Discovery. The Jerónimos Monastery is the crown jewel — a UNESCO World Heritage site and, in my view, one of the most breathtaking buildings in all of Europe. The style is called Manueline, Portugal’s own ornate maritime Gothic, and the stonework is almost unbelievably intricate — ropes, anchors, armillary spheres, and exotic flora carved into honey-colored stone. Vasco da Gama is buried inside. Buy your tickets in advance; the lines get long, and there’s no shade. Right next door, at the Pastéis de Belém bakery, order a warm custard tart straight from the oven, dust it with cinnamon, and eat it standing up. The recipe is a closely guarded secret that hasn’t changed since 1837. It’s worth the trip to Belém for that tart alone.

🎶 Fado — Don’t Skip This (but on my tours we do Fado in Coimbra)

On one of your evenings, find a small restaurant in Alfama where the lights are low and the chairs are pushed close together. When the fadista takes the floor and begins to sing — accompanied only by the Portuguese guitar — the room goes completely silent. Fado is the music of this city: born in these very streets, full of longing, salt air, and something irretrievably lost. Whether you understand a word or not, it will reach you. This is one of those experiences that no amount of reading about it can prepare you for. You just have to go.

🍽️ Eating & Drinking

Lisbon’s food culture will not let you down. Start every morning with a pastel de nata — a warm custard tart — and a bica (a small, strong espresso) at a neighborhood café counter, standing up like a local. For lunch or dinner, look for grilled fish, garlic prawns, or the beloved bacalhau (salt cod) prepared in one of what locals claim are 365 different ways. The wine is excellent and inexpensive — a crisp Vinho Verde on a warm afternoon, a robust Alentejo red with dinner. Small family restaurants are the best bet. Tip generously at the good ones; they deserve it.

💡 One Last Thing

The best tip I can give you for Lisbon doesn’t involve any monument or restaurant. Buy a small bag of ginjinha cherry liqueur chocolates from a street vendor near Alfama, find a set of steps on any hill, and sit down. Watch the light change over the rooftops. Let the city come to you. Lisbon has a pace all its own — unhurried, warm, a little melancholy in the best possible way. The sooner you surrender to it, the better your trip will be. I promise you, you won’t want to leave.
A vintage tram passes by a historic yellow building under a blue sky.
Historic fortress tower with visitors under a blue sky.
Mount Etna and the Gambino Family winery

Mount Etna and the Gambino Family winery

by David McGuffin

I was up on Mount Etna with my Sicilian friend, Paolo, a few months ago. After winding through the lava fields and trekking down into a crater, we had had all the cold and desolate volcanic slopes we could stand for the day. So we headed back down the northern slope of Etna to the Gambino family winery.

The Gambino estate sits at about 2,600 feet above sea level on the eastern slope of Mount Etna, perched right there in the National Park with views stretching across the Taormina coastline and the Mediterranean. Getting there means winding your way up mountain roads through volcanic landscape, and I won’t lie to you—the drive can be a bit nerve-wracking if you’re not used to mountain driving. But the moment you arrive and see those terraced vineyards spreading out with the sea glittering in the distance, you understand why this place is special.

Here’s what makes Gambino extraordinary. This is a family operation that’s been at it for over twenty years, with the Raciti Gambino siblings—Francesco, Filadelfo, and Mariagrazia—pouring their hearts into every aspect of the winery. Francesco grew up watching his parents buy land piece by piece on Etna, and his mother Maria came from a long line of Etna vintners. You can taste it in the wines, and you can feel it in how the family welcomes visitors. When Filadelfo takes you down into their cellar—carved ten meters deep into volcanic rock—and explains their winemaking philosophy, you’re not getting a corporate tour. You’re getting invited into their passion.

The volcanic terroir here is remarkable. The soil is rich with minerals from Etna’s eruptions, and those high-altitude vineyards get that dramatic temperature swing between day and night that’s crucial for developing complex flavors in the grapes. They’re working with indigenous varieties—Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio for the reds, Carricante and Catarratto for the whites. The Tifeo Etna Rosso has this beautiful pale ruby color with aromas that just keep unfolding—cherry, leather, coffee, vanilla. And the Tifeo Etna Bianco? It’s got this bright citrus character with touches of pepper. I could taste the soil and the sea breeze in it.

We booked their full experience—the wine tasting paired with food. They serve you five wines alongside a three-course meal of traditional Sicilian specialties, and their sommeliers know how to guide you through the pairings without being pretentious about it. The antipasti plate and the lentil and chickpea soup were perfect pairings with the wine. And that view from their terrace? Breathtaking doesn’t quite cover it. You’re looking out over terraced vineyards with the Mediterranean spread out before you, and you’re tasting wines that couldn’t come from anywhere else on earth.

The Gambino siblings practice sustainable viticulture—hand-picking their grapes, using natural pest control, doing things the way their parents and grandparents would recognize. But they’re not stuck in the past. They’ve married traditional methods with modern techniques to create wines that speak authentically to this place while meeting international quality standards. You can find their wines in restaurants, but experiencing them here, where they’re made, is something entirely different.

What I love about bringing people to Gambino is that authenticity. There’s no pretense here, no over-the-top wine snobbery. Just a family that loves what they do, making exceptional wines in one of the most dramatic settings you’ll find anywhere. They welcome you like you’re visiting their home—because you are. After your tasting and tour, you can browse their shop, stock up on bottles (they ship worldwide), and maybe grab some of their olive oil, which comes from trees growing at the same altitude as the vines.

The winery gets busy, especially in summer, so I suggest booking ahead. And yes, it takes effort to get there. But that effort is part of what makes it memorable. This isn’t a quick stop on a tour bus circuit. It’s a genuine experience with people who have deep roots in this volcanic soil, who’ve been dealing with Etna’s challenges and gifts for generations, and who make wines that taste like nowhere else on earth.

1977 Lunch in Rome on flight layover to Athens

David and Paolo

1977 Lunch in Rome on flight layover to Athens
Why Italy is my Favorite Country

Why Italy is my Favorite Country

by David McGuffin

I often get asked, “What is your favorite destination?” Years ago, that question was difficult, but after almost 50 years on the road, I’ve got my answer.  Paris is my favorite city, and Italy is my favorite country.  

Since we are focusing on Italy this month, let me tell you why I love Italy. In 1977, I went on my first international trip. Although Italy was a destination on that three-week tour, I thought Greece was our first destination. Back then, I was along for the ride with the rest of my friends, and a detailed study of the itinerary did not happen. As it turned out, our flight went overnight from New York JFK to Rome, and we had a long layover at the Rome airport. Back in those days, before 9/11, security checks and leaving the airport were not a problem. So, we left the airport, got on a bus, and went to a countryside restaurant for lunch.      

I only had a Kodak 110mm Instamatic camera and a limited number of rolls of film, but some of my first pictures from the tour were of me and my friends sitting at a table, eating pasta and drinking Coke. That was the best pasta I’d ever eaten! Later that day, we returned to the airport, flew to Greece for a week, and then to Israel for a week, before returning to Italy for our final week. That countryside ristorante lunch experience set the “tone” for my upcoming travel adventures. If only I had liked wine back then!

In the years since, I’ve visited Rome and Italy a hundred times, and it never gets old or redundant. What keeps me coming back? It’s the combination of the people, culture, places, food, wine, history, art, and local friends. Italy, like its history melds varied cultures into one, so is my love for the country and its people.

After college, with my music education degree in hand, I landed a job teaching band and choir at a middle school in my community. Little did I know I would spend thirty years at the school teaching middle, junior, and high school students. After a few years, I was ready to take my band “show on the road,” so like my college choir director, I gathered a few students and took them to Europe. And guess what? Italy was the first country I wanted to share with them.

On that first trip, I chose a noted student tour company to make all the arrangements, and we basically came along for the ride, without any input on the experiences. My group consisted of maybe eight students and several adult chaperones, and me and Charlotte, my wife. We were loaded on a 50-seater bus along with a few other student groups and teachers. I think we began in Zurich, but most of the tour visited Italy from Venice, to Florence, to Rome.

Being a newbie European tour sponsor teacher, I was happy to let our tour escort and a few other student tour “veteran” teachers lead the way and set the daily plans. It wasn’t until we got to Venice, Florence, and Rome, destinations I’d visited a decade before, that I felt a little more comfortable. I enjoyed sharing Italy and my experiences with my students and Charlotte. They were all first-time international travelers, and I had at least one tour experience under my belt. So, I felt confident showing them the Piazza San Marco, the canals of Venice, Florence’s Duomo, the Colosseum, and Saint Peter’s Square in Rome.

Now, forty-eight years and a hundred journeys later, I don’t even need to think or worry about my travels in Italy. The history is unchanged, the culture changes with the passing decades, the food and wine are as good as ever, and the friendships I’ve made continue to grow. All this blends together and helps me offer my travel buddies an authentic and enjoyable peek behind Italy’s “tourist” curtain. Yes, one must see Venice, Florence, and Rome, but for my groups, the small hill towns, the off-the-beaten-path destinations, intimate restaurants, and visits with my Italian friends make a McGuffin tour group a cut above all the rest!

Want to read more about why I quit letting another tour company arrange my travels? Read about it here. “Why I Always Came Home Hungry.”

1977 Lunch in Rome on flight layover to Athens

1977 Lunch in Rome on flight layover to Athens

Volterra -Happy Steak Diners 2025

Rome - Piazza Navona 2025

Volterra - La Vena di Vino Wine Tasting 2025

Monterosso - Spaghetti Ristorante Ciak 2025

Contactless Payments are the way to go in Europe!

Contactless Payments are the way to go in Europe!

Contactless payments are the way to go, especially since the evolution of COVID-19 and pandemic panics. If you are not sure what this is, you need to study before going on your trip.

 

 

 

 

Contactless payment technology enables payment transactions via a contactless chip embedded in payment cards, tags, key fobs, watches, and mobile phones. The chip communicates with a reader device that uses radio frequency or Near Field Communication (NFC) standards.

Contactless payment “machines” and devices can be found in restaurants, bars, pubs, public transportation vending machines, food and soda machines, parking meters and payment machines, taxi cabs, buses, hotels, and many other locales.

Recently issued credit cards will have a “fan-shape” icon (like shown above) printed on them if contactless-enabled.

iPhones, SmartPhones, Apple Watch, GooglePay, and ApplePay will need to be “set-up” with credit card and account information BEFORE LEAVING HOME.

In Restaurants, split the bill, no problem!

If you are out dining with a group and want to split the bill, try this:

  1. Don’t worry about telling the waiter beforehand.  Everyone should order their meal “on one tab.”
  2. Enjoy your meal.
  3. Ask for the check when you are ready for it.  Don’t ask for it to be split!
  4. Look at the check, take out your calculator, and add up the total for what each person (or couple) is paying.  Add 5%-10% tip if you want.
  5. Ask the waiter to bring the “machine.”  He will show up with a portable credit card device.
  6. Tell the waiter how much you want to pay.  Swipe, insert, or tap the machine and that about will go on your card.
  7. Repeat the process with the others at the table.

 

Hint on Tipping in Europe

Hint on Tipping in Europe

Updated: September 30, 2022

In the United States, we’ve been raised on a tradition of tipping cabbies, hotel staff, bartenders, waiters, and a variety of other service-oriented personnel.  Consequently, for Americans, it seems normal to provide a tip or gratuity for good service.   When traveling in Europe, tipping is not near as common as you might think, and it certainly is not as lavish. While nothing about tipping is concrete, I hope these guidelines will relieve some stress and help you fit in like a local when traveling through Europe.

 
The information provided here is based on my extensive travels in Europe and my conversations with restaurant and hotel employees as well as local patrons. I’ve found a few generalities, which I’ll discuss first, and then I’ll dive into a country-by-country account.
 

Generalities

Europeans tend not to be as generous with their tips as we Americans.  Most European restaurant servers are paid a salary, and tips are considered a bonus on top of their wages. When pondering your tip, keep in mind a 5-10 percent tip is normal.  Only well-meaning or lavish-spending Americans leave a tip of 15-20 percent.  This is unnecessary and may be considered culturally inconsiderate.  Anywhere in Europe, you’ll be safe by following the lead of Europeans and leaving a euro or two per person in your party.
 
In most cases, the tip should be given directly to your server, not left on the table.  Cash payments are fine, but since COVID-19, paying with a credit card is becoming the norm.  There is seldom an opportunity to add the tip to the final total, though.  If you are dining with a group, remember splitting the bill may be possible at the end of the service, not before. 
CONTACTLESS IS THE WAY TO GO!
Since the COVID-19 pandemic, paying contactless with a credit card, phone, watch, ApplePay, or GooglePay is very common. 
If you are out dining with a group and want to split the bill, try this:
  1. Don’t worry about telling the waiter beforehand.  Everyone should order their meal “on one tab.”
  2. Enjoy your meal.
  3. Ask for the check when you are ready for it.  Don’t ask for it to be split!
  4. Look at the check, take out your calculator, and add up the total for what each person (or couple) is paying.  Add 5%-10% tip if you want.
  5. Ask the waiter to bring the “machine.”  He will show up with a portable credit card device.
  6. Tell the waiter how much you want to pay.  Swipe, insert, or tap the machine and that about will go on your card.
  7. Repeat the process with the others at the table.
 
 
If you take a taxi, it is appropriate to round up the fare a euro or two as the cabbie’s tip.  Be prepared to pay the fare and tip in cash, although many taxi companies and cabbies now take credit cards and contactless. 
 
In hotels, it is appropriate to leave a hotel housekeeper one or two euros a day for their service and provide a euro or two for portage to your room.  It is not necessary to tip a doorman or anyone who hails a taxi.
 

Austria

It is customary to give a 10%-15% tip at restaurants. Pay the tip in cash and hand it directly to the waiter when paying your bill.  There is a little trick to doing this in “Germanic” countries.  Let’s say the bill is €25 and you want to give a €5 tip.  Hand the waiter a €50 note and say, “30”.  The waiter will give you back 20 euros and keep 5 for himself.  You can walk away feeling like a local!
 

Croatia

Tipping is becoming popular in Croatia with the influx of mass tourism.  In a bar or sandwich shop, round up.  In restaurants with great service, leave 10%-15%.  Always give your tip to the waiter or waitress in the local currency.
 
If cruising on a private charter along the Croatia coast, plan to tip the captain and crew (collectively) about $50-$60 per person in your party.  If there is a cruise tour director, you should tip them about $12 a day per person.  This should be done in kunu (the local currency) or euros.
 

Czech Republic

Often a service charge is included in your bill.  If so, it will be clearly stated, usually in English.  Whether it is included or not you might consider giving an extra 5%-10% tip for good service.  Give your tip, in cash, directly to the waiter or waitress. 
 

France

Tipping in France is not common, nor is it expected.  Those in the service industry are paid a salary and therefore do not count on tips as part of their income.  If service is exceptional, rounding up a euro or two is plenty. Restaurants and cafés typically include a service charge in the price of your meal. It usually is noted on the menu as service compris and will not be a line item on your bill.  Some tourist restaurants do not include this (in hopes of getting a bigger tip from Americans).  This is noted on the menu as service non compris and in this case, a 15% tip is ok.
 

Germany

It is customary to give a 10%-15% tip at restaurants. Pay the tip in cash and hand it directly to the waiter when paying your bill.  There is a little trick to doing this in “Germanic” countries.  Let’s say the bill is €25 and you want to give a €5 tip.  Hand the waiter a €50 note and say, “30”.  The waiter will give you back 20 euros and keep 5 for himself.  You can walk away feeling like a local!
 

Greece

The general rule of thumb here is the more expensive the restaurant, the lower the tip.  If you dine in an inexpensive taverna and spend €20 or less per person, then tip 10%.  Anything over €20 per person, tip 5%.  
 

Ireland

The “old Irish people” never tip.  Tipping was never their custom, and theirs was a hard life growing up in the mid-20th century.  You’ll find them counting their pennies to the tee. The younger Irish, those under 40 years old, usually tip when ordering food but seldom when just having a drink.
 
Pubs – If you are simply served a drink by the guy/gal behind the bar, then no tip is expected.  In the countryside, if it is not busy and the bartender “chats you up,” then leave a 15% tip with each drink or at the end of your drinking session. If the bartender is the proprietor, then no gratuity is expected, however, it does not hurt to offer to buy him/her a drink.
 
Restaurants and Pubs that serve food – A 15% tip is standard for good table service. Up to 20% if exceptional service and extra “chatting up.”
 

Italy

Often you will find a cover charge and service charge included in the price on the menu.  This will be noted, usually at the bottom of the menu, by il coperto and servizio incluso. The cover charge usually includes tap water and bread on the table.  The two usually add up to 15%-20%, but you’ll never see that published anywhere.  It is considered a generous gesture to round up your bill by a euro or two for exceptional service. Occasionally, you may find servizio non incluso (service not included) at tourist restaurants. In this case, a 10% tip, handed to your waiter or left on the table, is fine.
 

The Netherlands

Value Added Tax (VAT) is included in every bill in the Netherlands.  It is not necessary to tip a taxi driver, hotel, restaurant, or anyone in the service industry.
 

Spain

Service is always included at every bar or restaurant in Spain.  A tip is not necessary.  However, it is acceptable to leave 5%-8% for exceptional service.  Give your tip directly to the waiter or waitress in euro cash.  Do not leave it on the table.
 

Switzerland

A service charge is automatically calculated into your bill at restaurants.  For great service, you can round up or tip 5%, but it is not expected.  Always give your tip directly to the waiter in Swiss Franc cash.
 

United Kingdom (England, Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland)

You do not need to tip in pubs when ordering drinks or food at the bar. In restaurants, often a service charge of 12.5% is added, so be sure to check your bill before paying. If no service charge is added, then a 10-15% tip will be appreciated, but it is not expected.  
 

Summary

When tipping in Europe, it is important to keep in mind that the tip may already be included in the bill. You can always round up or leave a euro or two for each member of your party as the Europeans do. A 5-10 percent tip is normal, but anything more is excessive since most servers receive a salary. Be sure to give the tip directly to the server in cash. It is also customary to tip cabbies and hotel staff a euro or two for their service.