I learned to ride the Subway in Munich

I learned to ride the Subway in Munich

by David McGuffin

I learned to ride the subway in  Munich.  Thirty years ago, I was teaching band at the local junior high school, and one summer, I gathered up six students and headed off to Europe.  That was not my first trip to Europe, but Bavaria and Munich were new destinations for me.  Previously, I’d traveled to rural destinations in the Swiss Alps, French villages, and the big three Italian destinations of Venice, Florence, and Rome.  None of which required me to use public transportation to get around.

Arriving in Munich, our group did the usual tourist sightseeing activities.   Our guide took us to see the historic town center, the Glockenspiel, Residence, and Nymphenburg Palace. Then, we were left to explore on our own for a few hours.  I decided to buy a public transit day pass, which provided access to city buses, trams, and subways.  In Munich, the U-Bahn and S-Bahn are primarily underground trains that run through the city center and into the suburbs.  Being from a small town in Florida, I’d never had the opportunity to venture down into the depths of the underground tunnels and zip from one neighborhood to the other.  It was fascinating to me to think about all the work that went into digging the tunnels, laying the track, and mapping out the underground routes.

First, I had to learn how the underground system worked.  With the help of a map of the underground system, I determined my final destination and the direction of travel.  Each train was color-coded and numbered, such as Blue U4.  With this knowledge and an overground city map, I’d decided where I wanted to go and how to get there underground.  I made a good many mistakes, sometimes riding the right train in the wrong direction or riding the wrong train in the right direction. 

I recalled reading about the September 1972 Munich Summer Olympics and the terrorist massacre.  And although we were now 20 years beyond the event, the massacre and the unique Olympic pavilions still drew sightseers.   So, off I went on the U-Bahn to Olympic Park.  As I emerged from the underground, I found myself not in the busy city center but in an urban park, lush and green, with the acrylic glass-paneled Olympic stadium gleaming in the distance.  Although I didn’t have time for a proper tour, I did manage to wander into both the large track and field stadium and the swimming pavilion.  While exploring, I came across a group of German public works employees, apparently on their lunch break, sitting under the trees, eating sausages and bread, and drinking lots of Hofbräu beer. To this day, I still don’t know how one can go back to work after a beer or two during lunch.

Back on the underground, I headed toward the city but decided to hop off at the Theresienwiese, the site of the famed Octoberfest.  I was disappointed when I emerged from the underground only to find an empty 100-acre limestone parking lot with not a beer festival tent in sight.  Later, I found out the place was empty except during the spring fair, the Christmas fair, and the Octoberfest celebration in September and early October.  Disappointed, I headed back to the U-Bahn entrance but was distracted by the beautiful St. Paul’s Church, its red steeple, and bells tolling the noon hour.   

While returning to the town center of Marienplatz, I decided to exit the underground and try my luck on the tram.  These streetcar-like trams run on tracks, primarily in the streets, throughout Munich’s neighborhoods.  I headed in the direction of the University and English Gardens. 

Somewhere, I’d read about a swiftly running stream where surfers gathered to ride the one wave created by a waterfall in the river.  I decided to rent a bike and take in some of this 900-acre city park.  It didn’t take long to find it! There was a big crowd of onlookers cheering on a slew of “surfers.” There was a system; the surfers qued on the riverbank. When one surfer fell or dipped out of the wave, the next hopped in, making an endless surfing show.

Soon, I was pedaling through the park on an easy path between the forest and the stream.  All of a sudden, I was stunned and almost ran into a tree!  There, right in front of me, was a man and his son (I assume) playing Frisbee.  They were both completely naked, running and flopping around with vigor, leaping and dashing to catch the Frisbee.  Looking around, I noticed I was the only one around who was clothed.  Men, women, boys, and girls, all in their birthday suits, were perfectly happy to soak up the sun, picnic, play, and enjoy life on that grass meadow by the stream.  Later, I learned that many Germans, including those from Munich, are not shy about their bodies. Although one is required to wear clothing on the trams, it’s perfectly fine to bare it all in the English Gardens! 

Since I wasn’t prepared to join them and take a dip in the stream, I turned in my bike and took the U-Bahn one last trip to Marienplatz, the center of the old town.  From there, I wandered a few blocks over to the Hofbraühaüs, the world-famous beer hall.  Walking in the front door, I was immediately enveloped by oom-pap music, thousands of voices, and a sauna-like damp heat, all mixed with the underlying, slightly pleasant smell of yeast and hops. 

This place was huge! There were several hundred long plank tables, each about 30 feet in length, filled, thigh to thigh, with people eating and drinking.  There are no saved seats here… find a space and settle in!  Soon, a waiter came by to take my order and bring me a liter-sized mug filled with frothy Hofbraü beer.  Bratwurst and sauerkraut followed, accompanied by a big dollop of spicy brown mustard. 

In Munich that day, I learned to make the most of what I had and turn it into an adventure.   A subway pass, bike rental, and curiosity taught me a lot about exploring Europe.  Now, even after scores of visits to Munich, I always seek out a new adventure, but none will ever top that first thirty-something years ago.

1977 Lunch in Rome on flight layover to Athens

Munich Frauenkirche

Munich Oylmpic Stadium

OctoberFest fun

English Gardens?

Prost from the Hofbraühaus

Beer Hall band
Why Italy is my Favorite Country

Why Italy is my Favorite Country

by David McGuffin

I often get asked, “What is your favorite destination?” Years ago, that question was difficult, but after almost 50 years on the road, I’ve got my answer.  Paris is my favorite city, and Italy is my favorite country.  

Since we are focusing on Italy this month, let me tell you why I love Italy. In 1977, I went on my first international trip. Although Italy was a destination on that three-week tour, I thought Greece was our first destination. Back then, I was along for the ride with the rest of my friends, and a detailed study of the itinerary did not happen. As it turned out, our flight went overnight from New York JFK to Rome, and we had a long layover at the Rome airport. Back in those days, before 9/11, security checks and leaving the airport were not a problem. So, we left the airport, got on a bus, and went to a countryside restaurant for lunch.      

I only had a Kodak 110mm Instamatic camera and a limited number of rolls of film, but some of my first pictures from the tour were of me and my friends sitting at a table, eating pasta and drinking Coke. That was the best pasta I’d ever eaten! Later that day, we returned to the airport, flew to Greece for a week, and then to Israel for a week, before returning to Italy for our final week. That countryside ristorante lunch experience set the “tone” for my upcoming travel adventures. If only I had liked wine back then!

In the years since, I’ve visited Rome and Italy a hundred times, and it never gets old or redundant. What keeps me coming back? It’s the combination of the people, culture, places, food, wine, history, art, and local friends. Italy, like its history melds varied cultures into one, so is my love for the country and its people.

After college, with my music education degree in hand, I landed a job teaching band and choir at a middle school in my community. Little did I know I would spend thirty years at the school teaching middle, junior, and high school students. After a few years, I was ready to take my band “show on the road,” so like my college choir director, I gathered a few students and took them to Europe. And guess what? Italy was the first country I wanted to share with them.

On that first trip, I chose a noted student tour company to make all the arrangements, and we basically came along for the ride, without any input on the experiences. My group consisted of maybe eight students and several adult chaperones, and me and Charlotte, my wife. We were loaded on a 50-seater bus along with a few other student groups and teachers. I think we began in Zurich, but most of the tour visited Italy from Venice, to Florence, to Rome.

Being a newbie European tour sponsor teacher, I was happy to let our tour escort and a few other student tour “veteran” teachers lead the way and set the daily plans. It wasn’t until we got to Venice, Florence, and Rome, destinations I’d visited a decade before, that I felt a little more comfortable. I enjoyed sharing Italy and my experiences with my students and Charlotte. They were all first-time international travelers, and I had at least one tour experience under my belt. So, I felt confident showing them the Piazza San Marco, the canals of Venice, Florence’s Duomo, the Colosseum, and Saint Peter’s Square in Rome.

Now, forty-eight years and a hundred journeys later, I don’t even need to think or worry about my travels in Italy. The history is unchanged, the culture changes with the passing decades, the food and wine are as good as ever, and the friendships I’ve made continue to grow. All this blends together and helps me offer my travel buddies an authentic and enjoyable peek behind Italy’s “tourist” curtain. Yes, one must see Venice, Florence, and Rome, but for my groups, the small hill towns, the off-the-beaten-path destinations, intimate restaurants, and visits with my Italian friends make a McGuffin tour group a cut above all the rest!

Want to read more about why I quit letting another tour company arrange my travels? Read about it here. “Why I Always Came Home Hungry.”

1977 Lunch in Rome on flight layover to Athens

1977 Lunch in Rome on flight layover to Athens

Volterra -Happy Steak Diners 2025

Rome - Piazza Navona 2025

Volterra - La Vena di Vino Wine Tasting 2025

Monterosso - Spaghetti Ristorante Ciak 2025

Contactless Payments are the way to go in Europe!

Contactless Payments are the way to go in Europe!

Contactless payments are the way to go, especially since the evolution of COVID-19 and pandemic panics. If you are not sure what this is, you need to study before going on your trip.

 

 

 

 

Contactless payment technology enables payment transactions via a contactless chip embedded in payment cards, tags, key fobs, watches, and mobile phones. The chip communicates with a reader device that uses radio frequency or Near Field Communication (NFC) standards.

Contactless payment “machines” and devices can be found in restaurants, bars, pubs, public transportation vending machines, food and soda machines, parking meters and payment machines, taxi cabs, buses, hotels, and many other locales.

Recently issued credit cards will have a “fan-shape” icon (like shown above) printed on them if contactless-enabled.

iPhones, SmartPhones, Apple Watch, GooglePay, and ApplePay will need to be “set-up” with credit card and account information BEFORE LEAVING HOME.

In Restaurants, split the bill, no problem!

If you are out dining with a group and want to split the bill, try this:

  1. Don’t worry about telling the waiter beforehand.  Everyone should order their meal “on one tab.”
  2. Enjoy your meal.
  3. Ask for the check when you are ready for it.  Don’t ask for it to be split!
  4. Look at the check, take out your calculator, and add up the total for what each person (or couple) is paying.  Add 5%-10% tip if you want.
  5. Ask the waiter to bring the “machine.”  He will show up with a portable credit card device.
  6. Tell the waiter how much you want to pay.  Swipe, insert, or tap the machine and that about will go on your card.
  7. Repeat the process with the others at the table.

 

Hint on Tipping in Europe

Hint on Tipping in Europe

Updated: September 30, 2022

In the United States, we’ve been raised on a tradition of tipping cabbies, hotel staff, bartenders, waiters, and a variety of other service-oriented personnel.  Consequently, for Americans, it seems normal to provide a tip or gratuity for good service.   When traveling in Europe, tipping is not near as common as you might think, and it certainly is not as lavish. While nothing about tipping is concrete, I hope these guidelines will relieve some stress and help you fit in like a local when traveling through Europe.

 
The information provided here is based on my extensive travels in Europe and my conversations with restaurant and hotel employees as well as local patrons. I’ve found a few generalities, which I’ll discuss first, and then I’ll dive into a country-by-country account.
 

Generalities

Europeans tend not to be as generous with their tips as we Americans.  Most European restaurant servers are paid a salary, and tips are considered a bonus on top of their wages. When pondering your tip, keep in mind a 5-10 percent tip is normal.  Only well-meaning or lavish-spending Americans leave a tip of 15-20 percent.  This is unnecessary and may be considered culturally inconsiderate.  Anywhere in Europe, you’ll be safe by following the lead of Europeans and leaving a euro or two per person in your party.
 
In most cases, the tip should be given directly to your server, not left on the table.  Cash payments are fine, but since COVID-19, paying with a credit card is becoming the norm.  There is seldom an opportunity to add the tip to the final total, though.  If you are dining with a group, remember splitting the bill may be possible at the end of the service, not before. 
CONTACTLESS IS THE WAY TO GO!
Since the COVID-19 pandemic, paying contactless with a credit card, phone, watch, ApplePay, or GooglePay is very common. 
If you are out dining with a group and want to split the bill, try this:
  1. Don’t worry about telling the waiter beforehand.  Everyone should order their meal “on one tab.”
  2. Enjoy your meal.
  3. Ask for the check when you are ready for it.  Don’t ask for it to be split!
  4. Look at the check, take out your calculator, and add up the total for what each person (or couple) is paying.  Add 5%-10% tip if you want.
  5. Ask the waiter to bring the “machine.”  He will show up with a portable credit card device.
  6. Tell the waiter how much you want to pay.  Swipe, insert, or tap the machine and that about will go on your card.
  7. Repeat the process with the others at the table.
 
 
If you take a taxi, it is appropriate to round up the fare a euro or two as the cabbie’s tip.  Be prepared to pay the fare and tip in cash, although many taxi companies and cabbies now take credit cards and contactless. 
 
In hotels, it is appropriate to leave a hotel housekeeper one or two euros a day for their service and provide a euro or two for portage to your room.  It is not necessary to tip a doorman or anyone who hails a taxi.
 

Austria

It is customary to give a 10%-15% tip at restaurants. Pay the tip in cash and hand it directly to the waiter when paying your bill.  There is a little trick to doing this in “Germanic” countries.  Let’s say the bill is €25 and you want to give a €5 tip.  Hand the waiter a €50 note and say, “30”.  The waiter will give you back 20 euros and keep 5 for himself.  You can walk away feeling like a local!
 

Croatia

Tipping is becoming popular in Croatia with the influx of mass tourism.  In a bar or sandwich shop, round up.  In restaurants with great service, leave 10%-15%.  Always give your tip to the waiter or waitress in the local currency.
 
If cruising on a private charter along the Croatia coast, plan to tip the captain and crew (collectively) about $50-$60 per person in your party.  If there is a cruise tour director, you should tip them about $12 a day per person.  This should be done in kunu (the local currency) or euros.
 

Czech Republic

Often a service charge is included in your bill.  If so, it will be clearly stated, usually in English.  Whether it is included or not you might consider giving an extra 5%-10% tip for good service.  Give your tip, in cash, directly to the waiter or waitress. 
 

France

Tipping in France is not common, nor is it expected.  Those in the service industry are paid a salary and therefore do not count on tips as part of their income.  If service is exceptional, rounding up a euro or two is plenty. Restaurants and cafés typically include a service charge in the price of your meal. It usually is noted on the menu as service compris and will not be a line item on your bill.  Some tourist restaurants do not include this (in hopes of getting a bigger tip from Americans).  This is noted on the menu as service non compris and in this case, a 15% tip is ok.
 

Germany

It is customary to give a 10%-15% tip at restaurants. Pay the tip in cash and hand it directly to the waiter when paying your bill.  There is a little trick to doing this in “Germanic” countries.  Let’s say the bill is €25 and you want to give a €5 tip.  Hand the waiter a €50 note and say, “30”.  The waiter will give you back 20 euros and keep 5 for himself.  You can walk away feeling like a local!
 

Greece

The general rule of thumb here is the more expensive the restaurant, the lower the tip.  If you dine in an inexpensive taverna and spend €20 or less per person, then tip 10%.  Anything over €20 per person, tip 5%.  
 

Ireland

The “old Irish people” never tip.  Tipping was never their custom, and theirs was a hard life growing up in the mid-20th century.  You’ll find them counting their pennies to the tee. The younger Irish, those under 40 years old, usually tip when ordering food but seldom when just having a drink.
 
Pubs – If you are simply served a drink by the guy/gal behind the bar, then no tip is expected.  In the countryside, if it is not busy and the bartender “chats you up,” then leave a 15% tip with each drink or at the end of your drinking session. If the bartender is the proprietor, then no gratuity is expected, however, it does not hurt to offer to buy him/her a drink.
 
Restaurants and Pubs that serve food – A 15% tip is standard for good table service. Up to 20% if exceptional service and extra “chatting up.”
 

Italy

Often you will find a cover charge and service charge included in the price on the menu.  This will be noted, usually at the bottom of the menu, by il coperto and servizio incluso. The cover charge usually includes tap water and bread on the table.  The two usually add up to 15%-20%, but you’ll never see that published anywhere.  It is considered a generous gesture to round up your bill by a euro or two for exceptional service. Occasionally, you may find servizio non incluso (service not included) at tourist restaurants. In this case, a 10% tip, handed to your waiter or left on the table, is fine.
 

The Netherlands

Value Added Tax (VAT) is included in every bill in the Netherlands.  It is not necessary to tip a taxi driver, hotel, restaurant, or anyone in the service industry.
 

Spain

Service is always included at every bar or restaurant in Spain.  A tip is not necessary.  However, it is acceptable to leave 5%-8% for exceptional service.  Give your tip directly to the waiter or waitress in euro cash.  Do not leave it on the table.
 

Switzerland

A service charge is automatically calculated into your bill at restaurants.  For great service, you can round up or tip 5%, but it is not expected.  Always give your tip directly to the waiter in Swiss Franc cash.
 

United Kingdom (England, Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland)

You do not need to tip in pubs when ordering drinks or food at the bar. In restaurants, often a service charge of 12.5% is added, so be sure to check your bill before paying. If no service charge is added, then a 10-15% tip will be appreciated, but it is not expected.  
 

Summary

When tipping in Europe, it is important to keep in mind that the tip may already be included in the bill. You can always round up or leave a euro or two for each member of your party as the Europeans do. A 5-10 percent tip is normal, but anything more is excessive since most servers receive a salary. Be sure to give the tip directly to the server in cash. It is also customary to tip cabbies and hotel staff a euro or two for their service.

Restaurant Survival Guide for Travelers

Restaurant Survival Guide for Travelers

 

When traveling abroad, a good traveler expects to run into cultural differences. With a little planning, we can prepare for the big ones, like the language or local customs. But it is often the little things we take for granted and couldn’t fathom doing differently, that trip us up. So, to help you prepare, here is a guide to the little quirks of dining abroad, from ordering drinks to interacting with your waiter and everything you need to know about refills, ice, water, and tipping.

 

Drinks

 

Refills

Free refills on sodas, coffee, tea, or any other beverage are an American thing. In Europe, you purchase your beverages by the glass. In most places, there are no fountain drinks, so if you order a soda, you’ll get a can. And hopefully, it was refrigerated, which brings me to the next item…

 

 

Ice

Until recently, Europeans would look at you like you were crazy if you asked for ice with your drink, and then bring you one single cube. It’s not common, it’s not the custom, and it’s only for outsiders. Many restaurants don’t have ice on hand for cooling drinks. Instead, they use it to chill the fish. And you do not want that ice in your drink! The best outcome you can hope for is that the little cubes will lower the drink’s temperature by at least a few degrees before melting away. 
 
We Americans are obsessed with having ice-cold drinks. I recently saw someone put ice in a glass of wine, and I gasped in horror. I thought to myself, “If the Europeans could see you defiling that wine, they would die!” Let’s face it, that extra-large soft drink from your local fast-food joint is just a cupful of ice with a little bit of soda. But the fact is, ninety percent of the world’s population makes do without ice every day and don’t even know what they are missing. 
 

Water

A few years ago, I was hiking in the Alps near Interlaken, Switzerland. I was exploring on my own and checking out some new destinations for my tours. I decided to take on a rather challenging day hike high up in the mountains. Early in the morning, I took a train up to my starting point, and off I went through green meadows that seemed to cascade endlessly down the steep hills under a blue sky dotted with puffy white clouds. It was a perfect day for hiking! 
 
Three hours into the hike, my water bottle was dry, and I was looking for anything to rehydrate my aching body. I came across a little restaurant at one of the highest points on the trail and went in to buy a liter or two of water to get me through the next five hours of hiking. Well, all they had was water with gas! At the time, I hated water with gas, but weighing the possibility of no water for the next five hours or water with gas, I purchased the water. That’s the day I learned to like the stuff.
 
Europeans have been purchasing their water for as long as I can remember. Originally this stemmed from the idea that tap water was unsanitary or that the natural minerals which bottled “spring water” contained were good for you. Whatever the reason, whether at a grocery store or in a restaurant, it is customary to purchase “bottled mineral water” when dining out. It is even customary to purchase water at the grocery for consumption at home.
 
Bottled water comes in two varieties: with and without gas. The gas is simply carbonation, CO2, the same stuff that makes a cola fizzy. But drinking it and enjoying it requires an acquired taste (It’s a lot like when you get a fountain drink and the syrup is running low). In North America, two popular brands of “water with gas,” or sparkling water, are Perrier (from France) and San Pellegrino (from Italy). You can find these at most grocery stores and fine-dining establishments in the USA.
 
When traveling throughout most of Europe, you should plan on paying for a bottle of water with your meal. Doing so will ensure you get fresh and clean water that is reasonably chilled. It will come with glasses but no ice. Two varieties are readily available: with gas, and without gas. It’s not a problem to request either, and most often the waiter will ask which you prefer.
 

How to request water:

ITALIAN – acqua natuarale senza gas (no gas); acqua con gas / acqua frizzante / acqua gazzata (with gas)
GERMAN – wasser no gas (no gas); wasser mit gas (with gas)
SPANISH – agua sin gas (no gas); agua con gas (with gas)
FRENCH – de l’eau plate (no gas); de l’eau gazeuse (with gas) 
Good news! In France it is customary to order a pitcher of fresh tap water at no charge. Simply ask for it! In French, it goes something like this: un carafe d’eau s’il vous plaît.
 

Interacting with your Waiter

 

Rule #1: Be kind to your waiter. 

This one may seem obvious, but the pressure of interacting with a language barrier tends to make people forget their manners. No one expects tourists to be fluent in a language before they travel, but learning the basics will go a long way. I can’t tell you how many times a simple Buongiorno has prompted Italians to shower me with compliments on my “beautiful Italian.” At the very least, learn how to say helloplease, and thank you, and you will find a lot of friendly people willing to help you struggle through the rest of the conversation.   

 

Rule #2: Be aware of local dining customs. 

We Americans are always in a rush. So much so that we eat a lot of our meals on the go. In Europe, eating is a social event. And a 30-minute lunch is unheard of. Don’t expect your waiter to come by every five minutes to see if you are done. In Europe, this would be considered extremely rude. If you want something, chances are you’ll have to flag your waiter down. He isn’t being lazy or bad at his job; he’s giving you privacy to enjoy your meal in peace. This is great if you want to spend three hours catching up with your friends but can be frustrating when you are pressed for time. 

 
If you don’t have much time to eat, consider ordering from the “take away” counter. Many restaurants and cafes near busy tourist sites offer the same menu to go. Just pick up your lunch and take it to a nearby park. This is a great option when the weather is nice. Don’t forget to grab a few napkins!
 

Rule #3: Reward your waiter for good service. 

Tipping rules vary from country to country, so you’ll want to do some research before you travel. Unlike in the United States, in many countries, waiters must be paid at least the minimum wage. In those countries, a tip is appreciated but not expected, and an excessively large tip can even be seen as an insult. 
 

 

Here are a few guidelines for tipping.

In France and Italy, a service charge is usually already included in the bill. If you stop for drinks, it is customary to leave the change, especially if the service was good. For example, if your bill is 3.50, you can leave .50 on the change tray. However, this is not required. If you are paying with a credit card, there probably won’t be a line on the receipt to leave a tip, so just leave some change on the table. For dinner, a tip of 5-10% is sufficient for all but the fanciest restaurants.
 
In the UK and Ireland, a service charge may be included in your bill. In the UK, the standard is 12.5%. If you can’t tell if it has been included, don’t be embarrassed to ask the waiter. In Ireland, this policy should be listed on the menu. You can still leave an additional tip for particularly good service. If there is no service charge, plan to leave between 10 and 15%. In the pub, people generally do not leave a tip. But here again, if the service was exceptional, the bartender filled several orders, or was very friendly, you can leave a small tip.  Here are some more in-depth hints on tipping in Europe.
 

Summary

 
Dining abroad doesn’t have to be stressful if you’re aware of a few key differences. There are no free refills on drinks, soda usually comes in a can, no ice for drinks, and you have to purchase water. Remember to specify whether you want still or sparkling water. Being friendly to your waiter will make for an enjoyable experience. Try to learn a few words in the language, because this gesture is much appreciated in non-English-speaking countries. Understand the local customs. Your waiter isn’t ignoring you, he’s giving you privacy to enjoy your meal without interruption. And finally, know the local tipping customs so that you can reward him for good service. With this in mind, you should be all set. Bon appétit!
Pizza Done Right!

Pizza Done Right!

The Coronavirus lockdown has disrupted the “normal” routine all over the world. Here at home, in Middleburg, Florida, Charlotte and I are spending much of our time keeping to ourselves, working on previously ignored projects around the house, and occasionally running to the store to pick up food or hardware items. Needless to say, I am getting stir-crazy and itching to get back to travel (#BackToTravel)! But, until we can do that safely, cooking is a good substitute for me.

Pizza Done Wrong

Recently, we had worked outside in our yard, all day long. When supper-time rolled around, neither of us felt like cooking, there were no left-overs in the fridge, and restaurants are closed during the pandemic. So, I decided to run up to Papa Murphy’s and get a “bring-home-and-cook-it-yourself” pizza. (I’ve eaten pizza all around the world and have decided Papa Murphy’s Pizza produces the best takeaway alternative to a homemade pie. I like cooking it myself and eating it hot! By the way, I keep it simple too, thin-crust, mushrooms, pepperoni, onions, and bell peppers). It was only 6:30 in the evening, but unfortunately, the store was already closed due to shortened hours! So, I went to the local Pizza Hut, walked in, ordered a pizza, and waited for it in my car. It was semi-warm when I got it home, but we were starving by this time, so we opened the box and dug in.

Pizzza Hut

It was not very good. The crust was overcooked and hard, the red sauce was tart and astringent, and the veggies were not fresh. The pepperoni was the best ingredient. But we ate it!

Next Time, I Made My Own

A few days later, I decided to stock up on the ingredients to make fresh homemade pizza. But, when I got to the grocery store, they had no flour on the shelves. It seems, like toilet paper, flour is a hot-selling item during this pandemic! So, I walked over to the deli counter and purchased a hunk of made-fresh daily pizza dough. I’m not sure if Publix Super Market mixes this up every morning in their deli, or if it arrives frozen and they thaw it out, but regardless, it is pretty good. I also stocked up on my fav four ingredients of pepperoni, bell peppers, sweet onions, and mushrooms. Here’s how it turned out… almost like Italy!

Italian Pizza Done Right

When in Rome, we often begin our Exploring Europe tours with a Day 1 get-together at Mercato Centrale Roma for a pizza lunch before heading out for sightseeing. This is the perfect way to get acquainted with one another and with authentic Italian food. Not only does it house a great pizzeria, but there are also 17 other food stalls selling almost anything to eat or drink that comes to mind when thinking of authentic Italian cuisine. Check out this artisanal pizza from pizzaiolo Gabriele Bonci. Photo thanks to Italy Magazine and their article on Mercato Centrale Roma.

Pizza-Mercato-Centrale-Roma-Italy-Magazine

We have searched thousands of photos in our archives for a picture of our groups eating pizza at Mercato Centrale in Rome or Florence. I guess the pizza is too good to document, but we did not find a single photo in our files. So, if you have any photos of pizza at Mercato Centrale or in Italy or your favorite pizzeria at home, send them in and we’ll post ’em!

There are hundreds of pizzerie (that’s plural for pizzeria) all over Rome. Some are better than others, but none of them are bad. If they were, they would be out of business real quick! I like to visit those that are small places with a real wood-fired pizza oven, a pizzaiolo (the man who wears white clothes and makes a pizza), and is located outside of the tourist areas.

Claudia’s Homemade Pizza

My friends the Del Duca’s live just outside the ancient Etruscan town of Volterra, in Tuscany. I visit with them six or eight times a year, either at their home and agriturismo known as Podere Marcampo or their Ristorante Enoteca Del Duca. Twice a year, we rent out their agriturismo rooms and host 12-15 people on our “Villa Vacation” tour. This is a delight because we get to unpack our stuff for seven consecutive nights and experience what life might be like for a local in Volterra. Each day we go on short excursions to Lucca, Siena, Volterra, San Gimignano, and the Chianti region for sightseeing, wine tasting, and fun. When we return to Podere Marcampo, there is time for relaxing, swimming, sunbathing, hiking, and of course, eating and drinking!

Marcampo 2019 05
PODERE MARCAMPO

One evening, a few years back, Claudia offered to make pizza for our group and to share her recipe. Here it is.

INGREDIENTS FOR 4 PEOPLE

  • 1.3 lbs all purpose flour
  • 1/2 oz. beer yeast
  • 14 oz. warm water
  • Half a glass of extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 tsp. spoon of sugar
  • 1 tsp. of salt
  • tomato puree
  • oregano

Dissolve the yeast in warm water. In a bowl, mix the flour with salt, sugar and extra virgin olive oil. Add the water and knead until you get a soft uniform dough. Cover the bowl with a cloth and let the dough rise for 2 hours.

Thereafter, extend the dough with a rolling pin and adjust it in one or more flat oven pans lined with parchment paper. Cover again, and let sit for an hour.

In the meantime make the tomato sauce. Puree fresh tomatoes or purchase quality canned tomato puree. (David’s note – I always use the CENTO brand for whole canned tomatoes and puree. They have no citric acid which is often added as a preservative). Mix in salt, pepper, oregano, and extra-virgin olive oil. Let it rest for at least one hour in the fridge.

Pre-heat the oven to 500°F.

Uncover the dough, place a thin layer of tomato sauce on the dough. Add other ingredients from the list below. Cook for 15-20 minutes.

  • Mozzarella, sliced potatoes, bacon, rosemary
  • Mozzarella, spinach (pre-cooked with garlic), and sausage
  • Tomato, mozzarella, ham, mushrooms, olives
  • Tomato, mozzarella, sliced veggies, marjoram

Slice and enjoy your homemade pizza!

Feel free to leave comments below. Share your favorite photos of pizza and tell us all about your dining experience on one of my social media platforms noted below.

Read the sequel and see more pizza perfect pictures here.