by Dawnielle Jacobson | Jul 12, 2019 | Destinations
Ancient Rome
Read about some of David’s favorite sites dating back to ancient Rome.
The Colosseum
This massive arena is the first image that comes to mind when I think of Rome. Constructed by the Emperor Vespasian (the first of several “Flavian” emperors) it was inaugurated in AD 80 as the Flavian Amphitheatre. The Romans were always seeking ways to take a Greek idea and put a new Roman twist on it. The Flavian Amphitheatre is no exception. In essence, the Romans took the plans for a Classical Greek theatre and built two of them end to end, coming up with the design for a huge freestanding “amphi” theatre.
Nero, Emperor Vespasian’s predecessor, had constructed a lavish palace just over the hill, behind the modern-day metro station. The site where the Colosseum sits today was once a large man-made lake surrounded by porticos, balconies and grand walkways. This palace complex, known as the Domus Aurea (Golden House), contained a colossal 33-meter-tall (100 feet) bronze statue of the Emperor Nero. After the Flavian Amphitheatre was constructed, Vespasian had Nero’s colossal statue placed out in front of his new colossal amphitheatre. The combination of the colossal statue of Nero and the colossal amphitheatre seemed to stick and the amphitheatre took on the nickname of the Colossal-seum, or Colosseum. Nero’s statue has perished, but you can see the site where it once stood on the grassy area between the Colosseum and the wrought iron fence flanking the forum area.
The Romans were known as great builders and pioneered many construction techniques still in use today. One such idea was that of the “rounded arch” and concrete. Essentially, the Romans would construct a shell of bricks and mortar and then pour concrete in the void making for a super strong and sturdy structure. This concrete-filled shell was then covered with gleaming white travertine marble for a finishing touch of grandeur. Once inside the Colosseum be sure to notice the many examples of this shell and concrete construction method.
Notice the exterior of the Colosseum; see all those potholes in the walls? The huge stones flanking the exterior were originally held together with iron pegs, buried into the stone. Then, as mentioned before, the whole thing was covered in travertine marble. The Colosseum became a relic after the fall of Rome and its ready-cut stones were cannibalized for easy building material in the Middle Ages and Renaissance period. Later, when iron was at a shortage, the Colosseum’s iron pegs were chiseled out to make weapons for war, as well as hinges, railing, and the like.
Look again at the exterior; do you see a resemblance to our modern-day soccer and football stadiums? In Roman times, the citizens attending an event at the amphitheatre had a ticket noting their seating assignment and which doorway to enter to get to their seats. Now look above the rounded arched “doorways” on the ground level and you’ll find “Roman numerals” etched into the marble noting the doorway’s number. Just like our stadiums today, the wide walkways and stairs were designed to get people into and out of the amphitheatre very quickly. Inside, along the walkways, were a multitude of kiosks in which vendors would sell official team merchandise, bowls of spaghetti, pizza and even Bud Light.
Still outside, notice the upper levels of the Colosseum. It’s not Roman at all… it’s all Greek: Corinthian columns on the top level, Ionic on the middle and Doric on the ground floor. Originally, each arch on the top levels contained a copy of Greek statues further contributing to the artistic beauty of the Colosseum.
Only a third of the original Colosseum still stands today. Some of it was destroyed in earthquakes but most was deconstructed after the fall of Rome and used as stonework for newer buildings.
Once inside the Colosseum it may be difficult to imagine just how the exposed skeleton/foundation which remains fit in with the colossal arena of Roman times. I suggest going directly to the arena/ground level as soon as you enter the ticket gate. Exiting from the tunnel into the arena is much like doing the same thing in our modern stadiums. The difference here is that you are looking at the tunneling and foundations which once supported the floor of the playing field. These skeletal pillars and passageways were once covered with wooden planks on which sand was spread to make the playing field. Arena in Latin means sand, thus the origin of our modern-day term for an oval-shaped stadium. The Colosseum’s arena was 86 by 50 meters, slightly smaller than our present-day football field. With some imagination, you can visualize the rings of seating circling the arena. Notice the buttresses and supports for the tunnels leading to the second level. Even higher up, you can still see the remains of dual stairs leading up to the cheap seats on level three. At the very top, wooden beams stuck out of the stone walls to support huge canvas tarps designed to be drawn to shade the spectators from the mid-day sun.
The Colosseum was constructed for the enjoyment and entertainment of the citizens of Rome. Admission was always free and events were often sponsored by politicians. The Colosseum opened in AD 80 with a 100-day festival of events in which 2,000 men and 9,000 animals were killed in one sort of competition or the other.
The Arch of Constantine
Exiting the Colosseum, work your way around to the right and find this massive triumphal arch known as the Arch of Constantine. It was erected here in 315 to commemorate Emperor Constantine’s victory over Maxentius in the mighty battle of Ponte Milvio (see description on page 6) and the subsequent proclamation “legalizing” Christianity. If you are a Christian, it is a very important date! Three centuries after Christ began spreading the Gospel to a lowly group of twelve disciples, his message had spread to the “utmost” parts of the world using the Roman Empire as its broadcast beacon. Higher up on the arch are some scenes carved to depict the epic battle in 313. Don’t dwell too much on the lower panels, as they have no meaning or relation to Constantine. It seems that by the time the 4th century rolled around artists were beginning to pillage older monuments to decorate the new ones.
The Roman Forum
With the Arch of Constantine to your back, walk up the street (via San Gregorio) about 200 meters and find the entrance gate/ticket booth for the Forum and Palatine Hill. (By the way, this is a good location to purchase your entry ticket for the Colosseum, no long lines and you can walk right in to the Colosseum without the wait). The forum was the political, religious and commercial center of Rome. Citizens would mingle here on a daily basis to catch up on the gossip, purchase food, worship their gods, elect political leaders, and generally participate in Roman life.
From the entrance gate, wander around the right side of the Palatine Hill, making your way past present-day excavations to another triumphal arch dedicated to Titus. The rocky road leading from the Colosseum, through the arch and into the forum valley, is known as the via Sacra. This was the “Main Street” of Rome stretching from here to the distant Arch of Septimius Severus at the foot of Capitoline Hill (800 meters in front of you).
The Fall of Rome
Basically, Rome could not patrol its borders and invaders from the North attacked the weakened city. The year 476 marks the date when the last emperor pulled the plug and left Rome in the dark. All of Europe wasted away for a thousand years in the Dark Ages, a time of weak government, poverty and ignorance. HOWEVER, Rome lived on in the Church! The term “Emperor” now translates to “Pope,” senators became cardinals, territorial governors became bishops, orators became priests and basilicas became churches.
To read about sites in Vatican City, click here.
To read about sites in Rome’s Baroque city center, click here.
Your Adventure Starts Here!
by David McGuffin | Jun 28, 2019 | Destinations, news
I visited Rome for the first time in May 1977 while on a choral concert tour with my college choir. That trip, and that choir, left a lasting impression on me and played an important role in the direction and professional choices I’ve made for my life. That experience changed my life, transformed my career aspirations, and provided me with a totally new outlook on cultural and diversity. Here I am in May 1977 and June 2019. Not much has changed in those 42 years… At least with the relics (almost 2000 years old) in the museum, ha!
I’ve just concluded a tour with students from my hometown visiting Rome and Orvieto (in Italy) and Athens and Hydra (in Greece). Anytime I get to lead a student tour, it reminds me of that first adventure across the seas for me! What a joy to witness their first experiences and impressions in a foreign land! It makes me feel young again too, hence the throwback photos above.
Hands down, young and old alike would not want to miss the big cities such as Rome, Florence, and Venice; but it is the small towns that capture their hearts and beg them to return.
In the next few weeks, we will be featuring some of our favorite Italian destinations. What better place to start than with food! Check out this post, where David shares some of his favorite Roman dishes, as well as tips for having an authentic dining experience.
Discounts on our most popular tours to Italy
We are offering a $500 discount on the Essence of Italy and Best of Italy tours in September. See our tour comparison chart here to find out which tour is best for you. Then head over to our website to sign up today.
Your Adventure Starts Here!
by Dawnielle Jacobson | Apr 19, 2019 | Destinations, Essential Travel Resources, Experiencing Europe
On Monday evening, a major fire erupted in the attic of Notre Dame. It blazed for 10 hours, fueled by the Cathedral’s wooden frame. Tourists the world over have shared their memories of visiting Notre Dame and lamented the damage to this jewel at the heart of Paris. But the 800-year-old cathedral still stands, and there is much to be hopeful and thankful for. Find out more about the history of Notre Dame, Monday’s tragedy and the future of this iconic monument.
Un Peu d’Histoire
Notre Dame has dominated the banks of the Seine for over 850 years, standing on the Ile-de-la-Cité. The first stone was laid by Pope Alexander III in 1163, and it would take about 100 years before the Cathedral was complete. It is a textbook example of Gothic architectural style, decorated with numerous stained-glass windows, ornate statuary, flying buttresses, soaring spires and finely detailed carvings. It is no wonder that for many this is considered France’s most famous church.
A Previous Narrow Escape
It is only thanks to Victor Hugo that the Cathedral still stands today. He wrote The Hunchback of Notre Dame in an effort to save the monument, which was in severe disrepair and falling apart. There were talks of demolishing it to build a mall, but the book was so popular that people began to call for its renovation instead, hoping to find traces of Quasimodo and Esmeralda within its walls. As a result, in the nineteenth century, the Cathedral underwent a massive restoration effort. A new spire was added (to replace the 13th-spire that had been destroyed during the French Revolution), and a number of statues were repaired (their heads had been removed by angry revolutionaries). New stained-glass windows were added and others were enlarged.
The Fire Rages
Shortly before the Cathedral closed on Monday, the fire alarm went off and worshipers were ushered out of the building, but no fire was detected. Twenty minutes later when a second alarm sounded, the fire was already spreading out of control. It was located in “the Forest”, the Cathedral’s wooden frame which separates the ceiling and the roof. Most of the beams dated back to the 12th century and provided dry kindling for the fire. In a matter of minutes, the entire frame inside the 750-ton spire had caught fire and could no longer hold the weight, sending it crashing into the Cathedral below. Within a few hours, the entire roof was ablaze. Nearly 500 firefighters worked tirelessly through the night and were finally able to fully extinguish the fire by 10 AM the next morning.
The fire spread incredibly quickly, fueled by a cross work of 1,300 wooden beams. The oak trees used in the construction of the Forest covered 21 hectares. Although firefighters arrived on site within 10 minutes, it took longer for some of the larger trucks and machinery to navigate the narrow Parisian streets, as Notre Dame sits in the oldest part of Paris. There were no modern firewalls or sprinkler systems in place so as not to alter the original frame, a controversial decision that will no doubt be reviewed in the wake of this tragedy. As a result, the fire spread throughout the 100-meter long attic unimpeded. It was also impossible to dump water from the sky because of the fragile nature of the stone structure below the roof.
A Race to Save Priceless Artifacts
The firefighters of Paris train for these situations. In fact, they had conducted two drills at Notre Dame just last year. So they were able to leap into action right away to save many of the precious artifacts within. They formed a chain of 100 people, led by the fire department’s chaplain, to recover as many pieces as they could. Thanks to their heroic efforts, many priceless items were saved from destruction, including the crown of thorns.
Inspectors have still not been able to enter the unstable building, but they suspect the fire was caused by an accident related to the restoration work that was being done on site. Experts are still working to secure the structural integrity of the building, and a number of statues have been removed to lessen the weight.
A Close Call
When it became clear that the fire might spread to the bell towers, firefighters entered the building at great personal risk to fight the fire from within. If the largest bell, Emmanuelle, had crashed through the stone of the bell tower, it would have had a domino effect on the entire Cathedral. According to the Deputy Minister of the Interior, firefighters had a window of only 30 minutes to prevent that catastrophe. They also fought to keep the flames away from the north rose window, which contains original stained-glass from the 13th century.
Damaged but Defiant
The fire on the roof looked horrific and many people feared the worst, but the ceiling remained mostly intact and the interior was protected from the worst of the blaze.
- Many of the relics stored within the Cathedral were saved by firemen, including the crown of thorns and the Blessed Sacrament from the tabernacle.
- Several paintings have been sent to the Louvre to be treated for smoke damage.
- Just days before the fire, the 16 bronze statues on the spire had been removed as part of the restoration efforts.
- All three rose windows survived, although the lead that holds the glass in place may need to be redone after suffering such intense heat.
- The 15th-century organ was spared by the flames but may have taken some water damage.
- The gold cross and statues surrounding the altar appear relatively untouched.
- The bells and bell towers remain intact.
- Three beehives sheltering 180,000 bees located on the roof survived. The bees were only put to sleep by the smoke!
Looking to the Future
President Macron has called for Notre Dame to be restored within five years, and approximately 1 billion euros have already been donated to that cause by large and small donors around the world. In the meantime, the Mayor of Paris has approved plans to build a temporary wooden cathedral on the esplanade in front of Notre Dame where its congregation can meet until it reopens.
by David McGuffin | Jan 25, 2019 | Destinations
Edinburgh
I’ve been visiting Scotland for almost twenty years. Much of that has been while leading my groups around on guided tours, but some of the best times have been those when I was wandering alone or exploring with my wife. I’ve always had a soft spot in my heart for the underdog, and I guess that’s why I enjoy Scotland and the Scots’ varied history with the English, who, for centuries, have pushed them to the extremities and overpowered them with might.
Our first experience with Scotland occurred on a driving trip around the UK. My wife, Charlotte, and I had stayed the night before in Durham, visited Hadrian’s Wall, and just crossed the border to arrive in Jedburgh. Stopping for petrol, I went in the store to pay and recall coming back to the car and telling Charlotte, “I know that guy was speaking English, but I did not understand a single word!” Don’t worry, once my ear tuned into their brogue, it really was quite pleasant to hear.
Edinburgh is a grand capital city that for centuries was second only to London and Dublin in the Empire. Its old, crumbly medieval town is my favorite part of the city. The castle proudly sits at the top of a volcanic mountain where it has protected the city sprawling below for centuries. One long, cobbled street stretches downhill for about a mile (now known as the Royal Mile), ending at the stately Palace of Holyroodhouse. This mostly pedestrian street is flanked by a series of narrow alleys (known as wynds) that lead steeply downhill to hidden courtyards and doorways. In fact, the old town of Edinburgh contains an amazing number of hidden skyscraper buildings.
Edinburgh’s nickname is Auld Reekie, a reference to the horrendous smell emanating from its lack of public sanitation in the 1700s, when rich and poor lived right alongside each other in the overcrowded wynds and closes. By then, 30,000 people were living in Edinburgh. As there was no living space, the only solution was to build up and up. Consequently, Edinburgh became Europe’s first city with skyscraper tenement buildings. The best place to see these high-rise tenement buildings is from the North Bridge. Walk out onto the bridge, stand in the middle, and look back to the south at the multistoried facades on the medieval city.
Edinburgh is the second largest city in Scotland. With a population of almost 500,000, it is certainly set up to accommodate its citizens and visitors with public transportation, restaurants, hotels, and entertainment.
It is the historic and cultural capital of Scotland. Just a glance at the castle on the hill will tell you that this has always been an important city. Centuries after the castle was built, the English moved in and constructed a well-thought-out and “grid-planned” grand Georgian-era modern city.
The city is easy to organize and navigate on foot. The old medieval town, with its crooked cobbled streets, narrow alleys, steep stairs, and underground caves is flanked on either end by “royal” castles. The Royal Mile connects the “Castle” on the cliff with the “Palace” in the valley.
The Old Town literally falls off the cliffs into what was once a swampy marsh. In the Age of Enlightenment, the English filled in the marsh transforming it into a beautiful city park. Today, Princes Street Gardens is a mecca for sun worshipers and dog walkers, and it’s a perfect way to dawdle away a few hours with people-watching.
Alongside the park are the busy Waverly Train Station and an underground shopping center. Spanning the gorge are two bridges (North Bridge and South Bridge) and a roadway, known as The Mound, which carry pedestrians and vehicles from the old town to the new town.
The New Town was built in the era of British history spanning the reigns of the Hanoverian Kings George I, II, III, and IV. This is roughly the period from 1714 to 1830, or some say 1837. Architecturally speaking, the style is similar to that of the neo-classical public monuments in Washington DC. Edinburgh’s Georgian city gleams with broad straight streets, elegant squares (similar to Savannah, Georgia), circular or oval promenades (called circuses), beautiful buildings with uniform and symmetrical columns, and many other Neo-Classical construction designs dating from the era.
You’ll also see Victorian-era construction around Edinburgh. This architectural style dates from the era of Queen Victoria (1837 –1901) and is recognized by the “pointy” rebellion from the constraints of the previous neo-classical orderliness. This neo-gothic style features ornate spires, reddish-colored sandstone, and rounded turrets with pointed roofs, all blended with styles picked up from Middle Eastern and Asian influences.
EDINBURGH CASTLE
Cost: £19.50 on-site purchase or £17.50 for online purchase. Open daily: April – September 09:30-18:00. October – March 09:30-17:00. Last entry is 45 minutes before closing.
This is the birthplace of Edinburgh. This hunk of lava was a perfect place from which to defend a growing Edinburgh. In the 11th century, the Scots began building a fortress here, which has stood as the symbol of the city for 1,300 years. Most of the buildings you see today date from recent history, where the castle has served as a military garrison. Be sure to get in on the 20-minute guided tour that starts hourly at the entry. One of the highlights is the Scottish Crown Jewels, tucked away in the massive vault.
The Crown Jewels have been a longtime symbol of pride. They were made in Edinburgh in 1540 and contain Scottish diamonds, gems, and gold (often said to be the gold of King Robert the Bruce). The Crown Jewels were last used to crown Charles II in 1651. When the Act of Union was handed down to the Scots in 1707, a portion of the “deal” was that the Scots could keep their Crown Jewels. The jewels remained hidden in Edinburgh for more than 100 years and were rediscovered in 1818 by Sir Walter Scott. In 1999, the crown jewels were brought out of Edinburgh Castle for the first time in over 300 years for the opening of the Scottish Parliament.
The Stone of Scone (The Stone of Destiny) – This plain piece of rock (collected in the 9th century) sits next to the Crown Jewels and is the historic coronation stone of the ancient kings of Scotland. It was stolen by the English in 1296 and took up residence underneath the English coronation chair in London’s Westminster Abbey. In 1996 Queen Elizabeth II allowed the
“Stone of Scone” to return to Scotland, with the condition that it make a journey to Westminster Abbey for all future English coronations. So, with a lot of hoopla, the Stone of Scone was returned to Edinburgh on St. Andrew’s Day, November 30, 1996. As you can imagine, it is a great source of pride!
Royal Palace was the fortified refuge of the Scottish royalty in times of war and during attacks. In times of peace and calm, the royal family resided at the more comfortable Palace of Holyroodhouse at the foot of the hill.
The Great Hall was the palace’s great formal meeting room dating from the 16th and 17th centuries. It later became a hospital and barracks.
The Scottish National War Memorial commemorates the 149,000 Scottish soldiers lost in World War I, the further 58,000 lost in World War II, and the 800+ lost in British battles since WWII.
Saint Margret’s Chapel is the oldest building in Edinburgh and is dedicated to Queen Margaret who died here in 1093. She was later “sainted” in 1250. This chapel was built in 1130 and is in the Norman Romanesque style. Below the chapel is a wonderful panoramic view of Edinburgh. Crowds gather here for the 13:00 single canon and gun blasts that once was used to give ships in the bay a common point by which to set their navigation and timepieces.
The War Museum of Scotland holds lots of fascinating history. It is a bit different than the typical “guns and armor” museums throughout Europe. Take a quick look, or linger if you like. The museum closes one hour before the castle.
THE ROYAL MILE
The Royal Mile is really a series of four different streets linking the Edinburgh Castle at the top and the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the bottom. Actually, it is about a mile and an eighth, so when walking it, walk from top to bottom and take the bus back home. It is packed with shops, pubs, restaurants, cafes, lanes, and small squares. Along the Royal Mile, you’ll encounter common streets, lanes, and alleys, some of which are designated by unfamiliar terms. Perhaps you’ll find a close which is nothing less than a small alley (usually running down the hill) between buildings. These closes date from the Middle Ages. Originally they had a door at the entrance that was “closed” at night. The close usually led to a courtyard. You might see several pends or arched gateways. A wynd is a narrow winding lane and a gate—well, that means a street—and I’m not sure of its origin.
The Castle Esplanade is at the top of the Royal Mile. It was created as a parade ground in the 1800s, but today it is known for being the site of the Royal Military Tattoo—a spectacular “show” featuring military bands, pipes, drums, and royal regiments. The Tattoo is presented nightly in the month of August. You may see the modern grandstands flanking the parade grounds.
Saint Giles’ Cathedral is Scotland’s most important church. It features an ornate spire and “Scottish crown-shaped” steeple dating from 1495. Once inside, marvel at the stained glass windows (1995 by Leifur Breidfjord) dedicated to Robert Burns, Scotland’s famous poet. There is also a statue of John Knox, the great 16th-century Calvinist preacher who promoted reform and founded the Presbyterian movement in 1559. Knox’s insistence that every Scotsman should be able to read the word of God put Scotland more than 300 years ahead of the educational systems of Europe. The four massive central pillars date from 1120 and are the oldest structures in the church. Mason and DaVinci Code buffs will enjoy the Chapel of the Knights of the Thistle, which is loaded with lots of veiled symbolism and ornately carved figures. Open M-F 09:00-19:00. Sat. 09:00-17:00. Sun. 13:00-17:00.
John Knox’s Gravesite is just behind St. Giles’. In keeping with his Calvinist beliefs, his grave is unmarked, under the parking lot, at spot #23. Don’t confuse him with the nearby statue of King Charles II on his horse.
The Old Parliament House is on the same parking lot. It is now the civil court building, so you’ll have to go through security to see the 1639 Grand Hall and stained glass. It was in use until 1707 when the English dissolved the parliament with the Act of Union.
The Mercat Cross is located in the square near St. Giles’. This column, topped by a white unicorn, has been the site of royal proclamations since the 14th century.
The World’s End marks a spot halfway down the Royal Mile where a wall designated the end of Edinburgh and the beginning of Canongate. Canongate was a community related to Holyrood Palace down at the foot of the hill. The wall was located where Mary Street and Jeffery Street cross the Royal Mile. Notice the name changes from High Street to Canongate. You can find
some brass brick marking this former wall (the original wall was demolished in 1764). Look down Mary Street, about 200 yards, and you can see a portion of the former wall.
If you are into whiskey, the Cadenhead Whisky Shop (not a tourist site) was founded in 1842 and prides itself on bottling good whiskey from casks, straight from the distilleries. No additives and no mass-produced marketing. There is loads of information at the shop. You can ask for a sample, but do plan to buy a bottle, eventually. It is located just beyond the World’s End “wall” on Canongate.
The Scottish Parliament Building is located on the right at the bottom of the Royal Mile. Scotland was granted a parliament in 1998. In 2004, this building was dedicated—the first Scottish Parliament since 1707! Scotland now enjoys Home Rule and is looking for independence. It is worth a look. You can go in on weekdays. Pass through security and find the visitor’s desk. You can visit the public parts of the building including the “debating chambers.”
The Palace of Holyroodhouse is at the bottom of the Royal Mile. It was originally a 12th-century Augustine Abbey named for a portion of the “cross” brought here by Queen Margaret, later Saint Margaret. This has marked the end of the Royal Mile since the 14th century. Scotland’s royals preferred living down the hill, in the valley, instead of up at the blustery cold castle. Thus a “palace” has evolved over time in this location. You can visit here if the Queen (of England) is not in. It costs about £15. Be sure to get the included audio guide.
UP TOP NEAR THE CASTLE AND OFF THE ROYAL MILE
The National Museum of Scotland is free and well worth two hours of your time, as it chronicles the history of Scotland in photos, exhibits, and realistic displays. Start in the basement and work your way through history! This will put Scotland (and England) into perspective. There is an excellent restaurant on the top floor offering good food AND great views of the city. Free and Open daily 10:00-17:00.
Greyfriars Bobby is across the street from the National Museum—a story about a man and his dog that will bring a tear to everyone’s eye.
The Grassmarket is down in the valley from the Royal Mile. As its name implies, Grassmarket was originally the pastures and stables of Edinburgh. Later it was the site for hangings. Locals actually rented out their windows so all could get a good view of the “drop.” Today, it is a chic and “in” place to visit. It’s a lively town square popular at lunch and in the evenings with pubs,
restaurants, and clubs.
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David McGuffin is Founder and CEO of David McGuffin’s Exploring Europe, Inc., based in Middleburg, Florida. You can connect with him on Twitter, Facebook, Google+, LinkedIn and YouTube. David spends his time in Europe organizing and leading small-group and independent tours to European destinations. In business since 2001, David has provided exceptional travel opportunities to several thousand satisfied customers. You can find out more about David and his European tours on his website, https://davidmcguffin.com.
by David McGuffin | Jun 11, 2018 | Destinations
There are at least 40,000 restaurants in Paris!
So says the BBC in a 2016 report. For me, that’s about 39,950 chances to go wrong when eating out in Paris. I’ve been visiting Paris for decades and have made my fair share of mistakes. In fact, I made a poor choice just a few days ago, and when I was relying on someone else to plan my “Eating Out in Paris” experiences, it was simply just terrible (see my post titled: I Always Came Home Hungry). However, my mistakes are your gain! I’ll not steer you wrong here!
When looking for a place to eat, try to go where the locals hang out. If you see a big menu posted in several languages outside a restaurant, chances are it is a place designed for tourist. A tourist restaurant does not care too much about their food or service because they know the diner will most likely be there only one night in their life. They are not looking for repeat customers!
We all plan to encounter big cultural differences when we travel, but the little things are often a surprise. Here are a few little quirks to be aware of when dining in Paris.
Drinks
When ordering drinks keep in mind there are no free refills. When you order soda, it will come in a can or a bottle. Drinks do not come with ice. If you ask for ice, you’ll likely only get a few cubes. Water is free in France if you ask for un carafe d’eau (uhn-kah-rahf doh). You can also order (and pay for) still or sparkling water. Ask for de l’eau plate (duh loh plaht – still) or de l’eau gazeuse (duh loh gah zuhzz – sparkling).
Time Constraints
Be aware of local dining customs. In Europe, eating is a social event, and a 30-minute lunch is unheard of. Don’t expect your waiter to come by every five minutes to see if you are done. This would be considered extremely rude. If you want something, chances are you’ll have to flag him down. He isn’t being lazy or bad at his job; he’s giving you privacy to enjoy your meal in peace. This is great if you want to spend three hours people-watching at a sidewalk cafe but can be frustrating when you are pressed for time.
If you don’t have much time to eat, consider ordering from the “take away” counter (order your food à emporter – ah om-por-tay). In fact, many restaurants and cafes near busy tourist sites offer the same menu to go. Just pick up your lunch and take it to a nearby park. This is a great option when the weather is nice. Don’t forget to grab a few napkins!
La Formule
In Paris, you’ll find many restaurants that offer meals at a set price for a specific number of courses. This is known as a “menu formule”. The choices will be limited, but it often consists of selections from the restaurant’s normal menu. A three-course meal would include an appetizer (une entrée), the main course (un plat), and a dessert (un dessert). Four courses often include soup (une soupe) at the beginning or cheese (du fromage) at the end of your meal. If the regular menu looks daunting, the formule is an easy-to-order alternative.
Tipping
Reward your waiter for good service. Unlike in the United States, French waiters must be paid at least the minimum wage, so a service charge is usually already included in the bill. A tip is appreciated but not always expected and tipping customs vary by situation. If you stop for drinks, it is customary to leave the change, especially if the service was good. For example, if your bill is 3.50, you can leave .50 on the change tray. However, this is not required. If you are paying with a credit card, there probably won’t be a line on the receipt to leave a tip, so just leave some change on the table. For dinner, a tip of 5-10% is sufficient for all but the fanciest restaurants.
Dessert – I am not a fan of dessert, so I’ll leave that up to you. But if I come across a tasty sweet and I like it, I’ll give it my recommendation and I bet you’ll like it too.
All of my recommendations are linked to TRIP ADVISOR where you can find the address, telephone number and ratings/comments by TripAdvisor contributors. Read my recommendation first, then click through to Trip Advisor for details.
MONTMARTRE
There are many poor places to eat on this hilltop, especially in and around Place du Tertre. Most offer tourist menus, formula menu and drinks a mussels menus. Big groups, especially student groups, come here to eat cheap and poorly-prepared menus. Here is where I Eat Out in Montmartre.
At first glance, this place has the look of any other restaurant on Place du Tertre, but delve farther inside (or outside) for ambiance and good food. They offer street-side tables, suitable for people-watching and a drink or snack. Inside, there are many quiet tables; sit near the piano and bar, not in the back. Also, there is a nice, quiet garden area out back that is far removed from the hub-bub of the square out front. Finally, they offer seating out front, along with all the other restaurants, which still provides the flavor/ambiance of Place du Tertre without feeling as if you are falling off the sidewalk into the street.
Ok, what to eat? I go for traditional French fare. Start with six or twelve escargots served out of the shell with a wonderful blend of butter and herbs. Sop up the remains with the tasty baguette that comes in a basket just for this purpose. Moving on to the main course (les plats) why not go for the confit de canard? This is a very tasty leg and thigh of a duck fried in its own fat. Here at La Crémaillère, it is moist, fall-off-the-bone and crispy good!
Walk through Place du Tertre, on the east side, down the hill beyond the artists. Follow signs to the Salvador Dali Museum. It is just around the corner, to the right from Place du Tertre. This is out of the limelight and commotion of Place du Tertre, and you’ll immediately notice that this is a “locals” hangout. The menu is a bit more expensive than others in the area, but worth it. Try the filet de boeuf; cooked rare (saignant) is the way to go! Add a little butter sauce and roasted potatoes or frites (french fries) and you’ve got a tasty meal.
On a small little lane to the east of Place du Tertre, you could easily miss this restaurant. Not many tables inside or out, but if you get one, you are in for a treat. Some years ago I discovered Le Poulbot when it was the nearest place to pop into during a thunderstorm. Some friends joined me, and we had a wonderful dinner that lasted hours! In the years since I’ve missed chances to dine here because I did not book a table in advance, so be sure to call and ask for a table! The menu is French and I’ve had nothing that was not perfect, even the crème brûlée!
PONT NEUF-NOTRE DAME
I mentioned that I did not care for dessert. Give it a try here!
I put my group on the Seine river cruise here at Port Neuf. The one-hour cruise takes them upriver to the Cathedral Notre Dame and then down to the Tour Eiffel and back. After the cruise, if my group is not too large, we usually dine at Ma Salle à Manger. Another very small place with a few tables outside on Place Dauphine and a few more inside. The kitchen is through a “manhole” into the cellar. Given the size, I don’t know how they put out the food they do, but they do! This is another place you would do well to call and book in advance.
They offer a very nice formule menu that varies with the season. Count on the French classics done up exceptionally well! In the winter, try their bœuf à la bourguignonne and soupe à l’oignon. The fois gras is pretty good too.
The owners and staff are very friendly. The restaurant is located in a small triangular-shaped “square” covered in sand. Ask to use their boules set if you want to play a bit in the park.
This place is located on Place Dauphine as well. It is more swanky and upscale than Ma Salle à Manger, but has very good food. Plenty of tables inside and a few outside available on nice evenings. The fish, veal shank and confit de canard are good choices.
CAMBRONNE (Near the Eiffel Tower)
Years ago, I used to stay in this neighborhood with my groups and, consequently, found some very good places to Eat Out. Place Cambronne is conveniently located on the Métro 6 line and is just a 10-minute walk from the Eiffel Tower. La Place Café has been around for decades. I popped in yesterday for lunch and was not disappointed. My filet de boeuf, cooked rare (saignant), was served with roasted potatoes and a small salad. The steak was smothered in a fresh wine and mushroom gravy, ah so good! Others in my group had farfalle and penne pasta dishes, which, while not French, satisfied them just as well.
Just across the street from La Place Café, with a very similar menu and ambiance. In June 2018, the street and cafe are under renovation and totally shut down. I’ll let you know when I find it open again.
MONTPARNASSE & JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG AREA
Wow, this was a good find several years ago. Last night (June 2018), four of us stopped in without a reservation. The owner helped us out by asking a couple to move to a two-top and sat us down for dinner. It’s a small place with the boss and two servers on the floor, and I think there is one chef in the tiny kitchen down in the basement. The service, food and wine were wonderful. Steak seems to be a theme with me in Paris, so I went with the chateaubriand (special cut filet steak) and pommes frites. Snails for a starter, of course. Superb menu and everything prepared correctly. They also had an assorted menu. I took a photo and am including it here. Others in my group had homemade pasta, hanger steak, ice cream and the pomme au four, sablé Breton. If you are ever on this side of Paris, go here! Be sure to make a reservation!
Located just around the corner from the Montparnasse Cemetery, Restaurant/Bar Le Smoke is a good find. Sometimes they have live jazz or piped-in music. It seems like a local hangout and the menu is only in French. Don’t let that stop you. Go here, have a drink and get some good food. The waitstaff is friendly and will help you with translations.
Located near St. Sulpice, Chez Julien has been a stop for me for 10 years. Early on the restaurant was billed as “Lou Pescadou, Chez Julien.” I think the young chef Julien took it over a few years back. Regardless, it is worth a visit. Like all of my other recommendations, this place is small, and you should book in advance. I’ve taken several groups of 12 or so people here and we fill up at least half of the tables. The staff is friendly, and the chef is in the kitchen in the back cooking away. I had lamb chops on a recent visit along with escargot as a starter. You know by now, I like my meat rare, but they will prepare your meat to your liking. Give it a try!
Located just across the street from Luxembourg Gardens, near the Palace and main gate. The Trip Advisor reviews are mixed, but I find this to be a very worthy place to eat. Typical French menu with everything from beef, to duck, to fish and more. It is a cut above the other restaurants in the area.
Want a change from French food? Give Tavola di Gio some serious consideration. I’ve dined here a few times, but my meal here last night was fantastic. The burrata with cherry tomatoes, basil and oil was loaded with flavor (not the bland mozzarella we get at home). I then enjoyed the perfectly prepared spaghetti con polpette (meatballs). The pasta was cooked perfectly al dente, dressed with a light but flavorful tomato sauce, blending perfectly with the tender and tasty mini-meatballs. Other menu items include lasagna, other pasta dishes, fresh fish and a few classics such as saltimbocca di Roma.
That’s it for now. I hope you enjoy your dining experience in Paris!
by David McGuffin | Oct 10, 2016 | Destinations
In the United States, we’ve been raised on a tradition of tipping cabbies, hotel staff, bartenders, waiters and a variety of other service-oriented personnel. Consequently, for Americans it seems normal to provide a tip or gratuity for good service. When traveling in Europe tipping is not near as common as you might think and it certainly is not as lavish. While nothing about tipping is concrete, I hope these guidelines will relieve some stress and help you fit in like a local when traveling through Europe.
The information provided here is based on my extensive travels in Europe and my conversations with restaurant and hotel employees as well as local patrons. I’ve found a few generalities, which I’ll discuss first, and then I’ll dive into a country-by-country account.
Generalities
Europeans tend not to be as generous with their tips as we Americans. In general, European restaurant servers are paid a salary and tips are considered a bonus on top of their wages. When pondering your tip, keep in mind a 5-10 percent tip is normal. Only well-meaning or lavish-spending Americans leave a tip of 15-20 percent. This is absolutely unnecessary and culturally inconsiderate. Anywhere in Europe you’ll be safe by following the lead of Europeans and leaving a euro or two per person in your party. In most cases the tip should be given directly to your server, not left on the table. It is always a good idea to pay for your meal in cash as most Europeans do. Paying with a credit card is common in some countries, but there is seldom an opportunity to add the tip to the final total. If you are dining with a group, remember there is no such thing as “splitting the bill” whether it be with cash or credit card. Please don’t be an arrogant American and try to push our customs on your server; it is rude.
If you take a taxi it is appropriate to round up the fare a euro or two as the cabbie’s tip. Be prepared to pay the fare and tip in cash; there are no credit card machines in taxis.
In hotels, it is appropriate to leave a hotel housekeeper one or two euros a day for their service and provide a euro or two for portage to your room. It is not necessary to tip a doorman or anyone who hails a taxi.
Austria
It is customary give a 10%-15% tip at restaurants. Pay the tip in cash and hand it directly to the waiter when paying your bill. There is a little trick to doing this in “Germanic” countries. Let’s say the bill is €25 and you want to give a €5 tip. Hand the waiter a €50 note and say, “30”. The waiter will give you back 20 euros and keep 5 for himself. You can walk away feeling like a local!
Croatia
Tipping is becoming popular in Croatia with the influx of mass tourism. In a bar or sandwich shop, round up. In restaurants with great service, leave 10%-15%. Always give your tip to the waiter or waitress in the local currency.
If cruising on a private charter along the Croatia coast, plan to tip the captain and crew (collectively) about $50-$60 per person in your party. If there is a cruise tour director, you should tip them about $12 a day per person. This should be done in kunu (the local currency) or euros.
Czech Republic
Often a service charge is included in your bill. If so, it will be clearly stated, usually in English. Whether it is included or not you might consider giving an extra 5%-10% tip for good service. Give your tip, in cash, directly to the waiter or waitress.
France
Tipping in France is not common nor is it expected. Those in the service industry are paid a salary and therefore do not count on tips as part of their income. If service is exceptional, rounding up a euro or two is plenty. Restaurants and cafés typically include a service charge in the price of your meal. It usually is noted on the menu as service compris and will not be a line item on your bill. Some tourist restaurants do not include this (in hopes of getting a bigger tip from Americans). This is noted on the menu as service non compris and in this case a 15% tip is ok.
Germany
It is customary give a 10%-15% tip at restaurants. Pay the tip in cash and hand it directly to the waiter when paying your bill. There is a little trick to doing this in “Germanic” countries. Let’s say the bill is €25 and you want to give a €5 tip. Hand the waiter a €50 note and say, “30”. The waiter will give you back 20 euros and keep 5 for himself. You can walk away feeling like a local!
Greece
The general rule of thumb here is the more expensive the restaurant, the lower the tip. If you dine in an inexpensive taverna and spend €20 or less per person, then tip 10%. Anything over €20 per person, tip 5%.
Ireland
The “old Irish people” never tip. Tipping was never their custom and theirs was a hard life growing up in the mid-20th century. You’ll find them counting their pennies to the tee. The younger Irish, those under 40 years old, usually tip when ordering food but seldom when just having a drink.
Pubs – If you are simply served a drink by the guy/gal behind the bar then no tip is expected. In the countryside, if it is not busy and the bartender “chats you up”, then leave a 15% tip with each drink or at the end of your drinking session. If the bartender is the proprietor, then no gratuity is expected, however it does not hurt to offer to buy him/her a drink.
Restaurants and Pubs that serve food – A 15% tip is standard for good table service. Up to 20% if exceptional service and extra “chatting up.”
Italy
Most often you will find a cover charge and service charge included in the price on the menu. This will be noted, usually at the bottom of the menu, by il coperto and servizio incluso. The cover charge usually includes tap water and bread on the table. The two usually add up to 15%-20%, but you’ll never see that published anywhere. It is considered a generous gesture to round up your bill by a euro or two for exceptional service. Occasionally, you may find servizio non incluso (service not included) at tourist restaurants. In this case a 10% tip, handed to your waiter or left on the table, is fine.
The Netherlands
Value Added Tax (VAT) is included in every bill in the Netherlands. It is not necessary to tip a taxi driver, hotel, restaurant or anyone in the service industry.
Spain
Service is always included at every bar or restaurant in Spain. A tip is not necessary. However, it is acceptable to leave 5%-8% for exceptional service. Give your tip directly to the waiter or waitress in euro cash. Do not leave it on the table.
Switzerland
A service charge is automatically calculated into your bill at restaurants. For great service, you can round up or tip 5%, but it is not expected. Always give your tip directly to the waiter in Swiss Franc cash.
United Kingdom (England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland)
You do not need to tip in pubs when ordering drinks or food at the bar. In restaurants, often a service charge of 12.5% is added, so be sure to check your bill before paying. If no service charge is added, then a 10-15% tip will be appreciated, but it is not expected.
Summary
When tipping in Europe it is important to keep in mind that the tip may already be included in the bill. You can always round up or leave a euro or two for each member of your party, like the Europeans do. A 5-10 percent tip is normal but anything more is excessive, since most servers receive a salary. Be sure to give the tip directly to the server in cash. It is also customary to tip cabbies and hotel staff a euro or two for their service.
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David McGuffin is Founder and CEO of David McGuffin’s Exploring Europe, Inc., based in Middleburg, Florida. You can connect with him on Twitter, Facebook, Google+, LinkedIn and YouTube. David spends his time in Europe organizing and leading small group and independent tours to European destinations. In business since 2001, David has provided exceptional travel opportunities to several thousand satisfied customers. You can find out more about David and his European tours at his website, https://davidmcguffin.com.
