Drinking the local stuff – Czech Republic

When traveling in Europe, I think half the thrill is experiencing good food and good drink with good friends.  Over the years I’ve developed this uncanny knack for searching out and finding cool little places to eat and drink.  My rule is always go for the local stuff. To do that, you’ve often got to get out of your comfort zone, venture sometimes into the unknown, and even be willing to accept embarrassment or ridicule… but the pay-off is most always worth the effort.

CZECH REPUBLIC – The Czech Republic is known for good lager.  Ever since the middle ages many towns, no matter how small, have had their own brand of beer.  Last month I was in  Český Krumlov and Prague with a small tour group.  We had our share of wine in France for the first few days, but the last half of the tour was in “beer” country.  First Switzerland, then Austria, and finally the Czech Republic.  Pilsner reigns supreme in the Czech Republic.  Its light, clear color ranging from pale up to a golden yellow is a treat to the eyes, and the distinct hop aroma is a bouquet for the nose.  And the flavor… pure, clean, crisp, with no after taste.

The most popular Czech Pilsners are Pilsner UrquellStaropramen, and Budweiser.  Budweiser is probably most interesting to us Americans.  The Czech “Budweiser” and America’s Anheuser-Busch “Budweiser” are miles apart in taste and quality.  Where Anheuser-Busch “Budweiser” gives me an immediate headache, the Czech variety is smooth as silk with great taste and flavor.  It seems that original Czech Budweiser Bier was founded in 1795 in Budweis, a town in Bohemia (now part of the Czech Republic).  This beer was known as Budweiser because it was known to be from the town of Budweis, hence the adjective Budweis-er.  In the United States, Anheuser-Busch started using the name Budweiser for its beer in 1876 and two years later they finally decided to register its name.  So I guess the long story short is that there has long been a debate over which is the “King of Beers,” beer from Budweis or beer from Anheuser-Busch.  For me there is no comparasion.  I go for the original and local stuff every time.

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Free Refills… Forget It!

FREE REFILLS on sodas, sweet tea, and any other beverage is definitely an American thing.  There is NO WAY any European restaurant is even going to consider it.  Even at McDonald’s, which has restaurants in every major city in Europe, you’ll get a curt “no” or a quizzical look when asking for a refill.  So sorry guys, along with no ice, you’ll also get no refills and no sympathy.

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Toilets, Tubs, and Bidets (Part 3)

BIDETS

Most of us Americans get a kick out of an encounter with a bidet.  To many, it’s often intriguing, entertaining, funny, or even sexy in an odd sort of way.  But in many parts of the world, it’s a normal fixture in the bathroom.  In French, bidet is the word for “pony.”  Now, how appropriate can that be, because you ride a bidet much like you would a pony.  That is… straddling it.

I take a lot of Americans around Europe and believe me, I’ve heard lots of “bidet” stories.  Here are some ways in which my tour members have utilized the bidets in their hotel rooms:

 

  • a foot washer;
  • a water fountain;
  • a urinal;
  • a place to shave one’s legs;
  • an object for “truth or dare”;
  • a replacement for bathing;
  • a laundry;
  • a dishwasher; and,
  •  a cooler for beer.

Bidets originated in France, several centuries ago as a means to wash after using the toilet, after having sex, or even after a day at the office.  In short, its purpose is to maintain clean personal hygiene without taking a full shower or bath.  So, now you know why lots of Europeans think they are clean when their pits smell to high heaven!

Here’s how to use a bidet:

  1. Test the water controls before getting on!  Some bidets have high pressure jets that squirt up to the ceiling if turned fully on.  Others have a faucet similar to a sink.  Some have hot and cold water valves while others have just one water valve.  The point here is to SLOWLY test out all the knobs, valves, and controls before getting on.
  2. If you are wearing pants, you have got to take them off!  Otherwise hike up your skirt or dress. Then straddle the bidet, facing the wall, so you’ll have full control of the knobs, controls, and valves.  Then, by positioning yourself and the faucet, direct the water to the area you want to clean.  It’s ok to use soap and your hands.  Some people prefer to face away from the wall and manipulate the controls in a contorted manner.  I ran across this hilarious video on YouTube that shows you how to do it from a Spaniard’s perspective.  Check it out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cunTYbi9yM
  3. Once finished, use toilet paper to dry off.  The towels hanging by the bidet are to dry off your hands after the whole procedure.  Don’t stick the towels down there to dry off, or you’ll hear it from the maids the next morning!

OK, that’s was pretty personal, but at least you’ve got no doubt about bidets.  Now, go experience some more of Europe!

-David

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TOILETS, TUBS, AND BIDETS (Part 1)

TOILETS

Public Toilets – for clarity’s sake let’s define a public toilet as any toilet outside a private home or your hotel room.  With that in mind, we also need to agree that public toilets vary greatly from country to country and even region to region in Europe. I’ll try to break it down by toilet type, starting with the “best” and moving to the “worst”.

HIGHWAY REST STOPS AND RESTAURANT TOILETS – These are usually the cleanest facilities you’ll find anywhere.  Normally highway restaurants are spaced every 100 km or so along major four-laned limited-access highways. In France and Italy, you’ll be expected to give a tip or even pay an entrance fee to use these toilets.  The usual cost is fifty euro-cents to one euro per person, so be prepared to have a few euro coins available.  In Germany and Austria, you’ll be expected to pay an “admission” fee of a euro or so to enter the toilet area.  Upon entering you’ll receive a ticket, be sure to keep it because it can be turned in at the cash register in the store or restaurant for a credit against items purchased.

RESTAURANTS- Toilet facilities can vary widely in restaurants and my general rule is to stay out of them if you can.  Most restaurants, especially in towns and cities, are located in century-old buildings which were not originally built with toilets in mind.  Consequently, they have been retrofitted with bathrooms that range from disgusting to adequate. The toilets can be especially lousy in restaurants found in France and Italy where they are usually located down in a basement or cellar.  The worst toilets date from the early 20th century and are basically a simple hole in the floor with a foot rest on either side.  Simply step up, aim, go, and drip dry. The general consensus is toilets of this type are disgusting and should be avoided at all costs. Others can be a bit more user friendly initially, but flushing can become a problem.  The best solution is to look up for something to pull, look down for some to push, or look around around for something to lift up or push down.  Of course there are clean and modern toilets too, but you’ll need no help with those unless it is one of those fully automatic models, in that case you’ll need to move quickly!

AMSTERDAM- In Amsterdam there are public urinals unlike anything I’ve ever experienced.  Imagine a pristine canal-side scene… swans floating serenely, bikes cluttering bridges, little boats floating by with couples in love, pastel classical buildings lining the lovely canals, and you’ve got a front row view from the public “pissor”!  These public urinals date back a hundred years to the age of art nouveau and the turn of the twentieth century.  I can’t imagine turn-of-the-century gentlemen needing to go so badly that these things just had to be out canal-side, but who knows?  Anyway don’t get mad at me for my description, but this is for real!  In Amsterdam (and in Brussels too, I’ve been told) there are public urinals for men.  These urinals, known as “pissors” are constructed of thin sheet metal, painted green in color, and are divided from the ground up into thirds.  The lower third is uncovered and exposes the subject’s (a.k.a. the pisser) legs up to the knee.  The middle third is constructed of thin, but solid sheet metal covering the “pisser” from the knees to the waist.  The final third of the “pissor” is made of sheet metal with small cut-outs in a “plus-sign” design so as to enable the “pisser” to look out and the passersby to look in.  What a concept!  Now for you guys, let me explain what’s going on inside, other than peeing that is.  Basically, you walk into this “nautilus” shaped contraption.  Once to the center you encounter a flat piece of steel, on which you are to pee, and below is a simple hole in the ground.  So while you are standing there, doing your business, your pee is splashing all over you, but you’ve got a grand view of all of Amsterdam!  There is nothing like it, try it once just for the thrill!

AUTOMATED TOILETS- These public toilets are usually found in big cities in France or Brussels and cost about a euro to use.  The entire toilet complex is a kiosk which is normally clean and pretty sterile.  Here’s how to use these toilets: look at the control panel beside the door; determine if the toilet is occupied or vacant; once vacant press the button and enter; do your business; exit the toilet kiosk.  Once you exit, the kiosk will go into self-cleaning mode spraying water, cleaner, and disinfectant all over the interior.  Then the entire interior is blown nice and dry.  Once the cleaning cycle is completed, the outside door panel will display that the toilet is ready for another customer.

Read part #2 of this article

-David

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My TOILET Story…

Traveling in Europe for the last thirty years has given me a virtual catalogue of bathroom stories, but perhaps the most interesting one goes like this…

I was at a restaurant along the Autostrade in Italy where we’d made a stop for lunch.  These restaurants are located conveniently every fifty kilometers or so along the major highways in Europe. They have great food, either from a buffet or from a selection of fresh-made sandwiches, and they offer clean bathrooms.  When making a tour bus stop, the first thing everyone does is rush off the bus and head to the bathroom.  These restaurants (branded as Autogrill) usually have the bathrooms downstairs which are maintained by a female attendant who keeps the bathrooms sort of spotlessly clean.  This “cleanliness” usually comes with a compulsory fee of fifty to eighty euro cents per visit to the toilet, but it’s a small price to pay for a clean toilet! 

Well, this particular day, the restrooms were booming with business and the lady attendant was having a tough time keeping up with collecting her “tip” and keeping the bathrooms clean. So when I went downstairs and deposited my change in her dish, I noticed the ladies’ line for the toilet was about twenty deep.  There was no wait for the men’s room, which I guess you ladies will say is typical. 

I walked in the men’s room and headed for the urinal which was just a ceramic tiled trough against the wall.  It was “backed up” with guys “going” so I did have to wait here!  While waiting, there was a commotion in the hallway.  Women were speaking loudly in rapid-fire Italian. only some of which I could understand.  But the general tone and message was, “We’re not waiting out here any more, let’s overtake the men’s room!”  Moments later, the men’s room was invaded by several Italian women looking for an open stall.  Well I had to go, and now it was my turn!  So up I stepped, down with the zipper, and …uhmm you get it, right?  OK, now I was ready to go, but all the confusion behind me had caused a momentary “blockage.” So there I stood doing nothing!  Concentrating real hard and focusing on the wall right in front of me, I began to go… relief!  Then to my horror, I felt something hitting my shoes.  Had I missed?

Looking down I saw a grey mop being swished back and forth between my feet, and behind me holding the handle was the lady attendant going about her business of keeping the toilets tidy!

In my next post I’ll give you some practical tips about using Toilets, Tubs, and Bidets.
-David

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WATER and GAS

A few years ago I was hiking in the Alps near Interlaken, Switzerland.  I was doing a little exploring on my  own and checking out some new destinations for my tours.  I decided to “take on” a rather challenging day hike high up in the mountains.  Early in the morning, I took a train up to my starting point and off I went through the green meadows that seemed to cascade down the steep hills forever under a blue sky filled with puffy white clouds.  It was a perfect day for hiking! There’s a lot to this story that I’ll have to tell at another time, but for now let me concentrate on the issue of water.

Three hours into the hike my water bottle was dry and I was looking for anything to rehydrate my aching body.  I came across a little restaurant at one of the highest points on the trail and went in to buy a liter or two of water to get me through the next five hours of hiking.  Well, all they had was water with gas!  At the time I hated water with gas, but weighing the possibility of no water for the next five hours or water with gas, I purchased the water with gas.  That’s the day I learned to like the stuff.

Europeans have been purchasing their water for as long as I can remember.  Whether at a grocery or in a restaurant, it just seems acceptable to pay for water.  Originally this stemmed from the idea that tap water was unsanitary or that the natural minerals which bottled “spring water” contained were good for you.  Regardless of the reasoning, when in Europe, it is customary to purchase “bottled mineral water” when dining out or even at the grocery for consumption at home.

Bottled water comes in two varieties: with and without gas.  Now you might ask why would anyone want water with gas in it?  Gas is simply carbonation, CO2, the same stuff that makes a cola fizzy.  But drinking it and enjoying it requires some practice in order to acquire the taste. The taste may even have to be forced as I was on my hike in Switzerland.

In North America, two popular brands of “water with gas” are Perrier (from France) and San Pellegrino (from Italy).  Now-a-days, you can get these at most groceries in the US and at most finer-dining establishments.  But you may have noticed that bottled water “without gas” is also very popular in the US too.  So I guess North Americans may be taking on this custom from the Europeans.

The bottom line here is that when traveling in most of Europe, you should plan on paying for a bottle of water with your meal.  Doing so will ensure you get fresh and clean water that is reasonably chilled.  It will come with glasses but no ice.  Two varieties are readily available: with gas, and without gas.  It’s not a problem to request either and most often the waiter will ask which you prefer.

Here is how I make the request for water:
ITALIAN- acqua natuarale senza gas (no gas); acqua con gas (with gas); acqua frizzante (with gas); acqua gazzata (with gas)
GERMAN- wasser no gas (no gas); wasser mit gas (with gas)
SPANISH- agua sin gas (no gas); agua con gas (with gas)
FRENCH-  d’eau sans gaz; d’eau avec gaz (with gas) Good news! In France it is customary to order a pitcher of fresh tap water at no charge.  Simply ask for it!  In French, it goes something like this: un carafe d’eau s’il vous plaît.

So there you have it… all you’ll ever need to know about drinking water in Europe.  In my next post I’ll talk about how to get rid of it!

-David

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