Drinking the local stuff- Ireland

When traveling in Europe, I think half the thrill is experiencing good food and good drink with good friends.  Over the years, I’ve developed this uncanny knack for searching out and finding cool little places to eat and drink.  My rule is to always go for the local stuff.  To do that you’ve often got to get out of your comfort zone, venture sometimes into the unknown, and even be willing to accept embarrassment or ridicule…  but the pay-off is most always worth the effort.

IRELAND – When I think of Ireland my mind conjures up visions of rolling hills, pristine mountains, forty shades for green, pub musicians, good craic, hearty food, and good drinking.  It’s no secret that the Irish know how to have a good time.  It’s in their blood, part of their culture, and a part of their heritage.

There are basically two kinds of drinks in Ireland: beer or Irish Whiskey.  Yes, now-a-days with their new-found wealth you’ll find lots of wine and even mixed drinks like we have back home, but the staple of the country has and will always be beer or Irish whiskey. 

I use the term beer rather loosely when referring to this brew because in Ireland, one would never just go up to a bar and order a “beer.”  You’ve got to be more specific and specify the brand name.  Really none of it is classified as beer anyway.  Usually you’ll have a choice of a stout like Guiness or Murphey’s, or an ale like Swithwick’s or Kilkenny.  There are other local ales and stouts spread throughout Ireland, but the four mentioned about seem to abound nationwide.

To a connoisseur, Irish Whiskey differs greatly from Scotch or Bourborn.  It is most often triple distilled giving it a smooth and pleasant glide down to your belly.   I was recently in an Irish pub with some friends who wanted to do “girlie shots” like we have back home.  No such thing was to be found so their choice was Jameson’s or Bushmill’s (both Irish Whiskey).  I think they’ll agree it did the job and  warmed ’em up as it was going down. 

Some of the most common Irish Whiskies are: Jamesons, Powers, Paddy, Midleton,  Old Bushmills, Black Bush, 1608, and Bushmills 10, 12, 16, and 21-year-old single malts.  All have certain distilling characteristics that give them a unique taste all their own.

So there you have it, all you really need to know about pub drinking in Ireland.  I’ve got a tour I’m putting together for June 2010 which I’m calling the “Thirsty Traveler’s” Tour.  It’s going to hit several “cultural pockets” of Europe where we’ll focus on eating and drinking well.  Stay tuned for details.
-David

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Eating the local stuff… the Czech Republic

When traveling in Europe, I think half the thrill is experiencing good food and good drink with good friends.  Over the years, I’ve developed this uncanny knack for searching out and finding cool little places to eat and drink.  My rule is always go for the local stuff.  To do that, you’ve often got to get out of your comfort zone, venture sometimes into the unknown, and even be willing to accept embarrassment or ridicule… but the pay-off is most always worth the effort.

CZECH REPUBLIC – Czech food is heavy.  Couple that with a pint or three of their fine pilsner and you’ve got way too much to fill your belly!  Honestly, you’ve got to plan your eating strategies when dining on traditional Czech fare.  I was in Prague recently and I sat down to lunch on a dreary, rainy day at restaurant U procvaznice, which literally means “the rope maker” in the Czech language.  This was the second time I had eaten lunch at this traditional establishment.  On this particular day I was in the company of Andrea, a local Prague guide, who had shown me and my group around Prague.  After four hours of touring we were ready to eat, and man was this the place to fill up!

Just look at the stuff on my plate in the photo.  Roasted pork, potato dumplings, more potatoes, cabbage, all covered with gravy.  I bet there was 4000 calories on that plate but believe me, they were fittin’ calories.  Here is a sample from this restaurant’s main course menu:

  • Tenderloin with cream sauce
  • The True Master’s Goulash
  • Two Wiener Schnitzel
  • A Quarter of Roast Duck 
  • Old Prague Plate for Two
  • Roasted pig’s Leg with Horseradish and mustard
  • Pig’s Leg of Bertha the Beauty (Roasted in Beer)
  • Piquant Ribs waiting to be Picked Clean
  • Fried Trout in Almond Jacket

Click on the link to the U procvaznice website for a complete run down of the restaurant, the history, and the atmosphere.  This place is off the normal tourist path, although it is listed in several guide books.  On the occasions I’ve eaten here my friends and I have been the only speakers of English. That’s a good recommendation!

-David

**You can add your two-cents worth by clicking on the comments link below.

Drinking the local stuff – Czech Republic

When traveling in Europe, I think half the thrill is experiencing good food and good drink with good friends.  Over the years I’ve developed this uncanny knack for searching out and finding cool little places to eat and drink.  My rule is always go for the local stuff. To do that, you’ve often got to get out of your comfort zone, venture sometimes into the unknown, and even be willing to accept embarrassment or ridicule… but the pay-off is most always worth the effort.

CZECH REPUBLIC – The Czech Republic is known for good lager.  Ever since the middle ages many towns, no matter how small, have had their own brand of beer.  Last month I was in  Český Krumlov and Prague with a small tour group.  We had our share of wine in France for the first few days, but the last half of the tour was in “beer” country.  First Switzerland, then Austria, and finally the Czech Republic.  Pilsner reigns supreme in the Czech Republic.  Its light, clear color ranging from pale up to a golden yellow is a treat to the eyes, and the distinct hop aroma is a bouquet for the nose.  And the flavor… pure, clean, crisp, with no after taste.

The most popular Czech Pilsners are Pilsner UrquellStaropramen, and Budweiser.  Budweiser is probably most interesting to us Americans.  The Czech “Budweiser” and America’s Anheuser-Busch “Budweiser” are miles apart in taste and quality.  Where Anheuser-Busch “Budweiser” gives me an immediate headache, the Czech variety is smooth as silk with great taste and flavor.  It seems that original Czech Budweiser Bier was founded in 1795 in Budweis, a town in Bohemia (now part of the Czech Republic).  This beer was known as Budweiser because it was known to be from the town of Budweis, hence the adjective Budweis-er.  In the United States, Anheuser-Busch started using the name Budweiser for its beer in 1876 and two years later they finally decided to register its name.  So I guess the long story short is that there has long been a debate over which is the “King of Beers,” beer from Budweis or beer from Anheuser-Busch.  For me there is no comparasion.  I go for the original and local stuff every time.

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Free Refills… Forget It!

FREE REFILLS on sodas, sweet tea, and any other beverage is definitely an American thing.  There is NO WAY any European restaurant is even going to consider it.  Even at McDonald’s, which has restaurants in every major city in Europe, you’ll get a curt “no” or a quizzical look when asking for a refill.  So sorry guys, along with no ice, you’ll also get no refills and no sympathy.

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Toilets, Tubs, and Bidets (Part 3)

BIDETS

Most of us Americans get a kick out of an encounter with a bidet.  To many, it’s often intriguing, entertaining, funny, or even sexy in an odd sort of way.  But in many parts of the world, it’s a normal fixture in the bathroom.  In French, bidet is the word for “pony.”  Now, how appropriate can that be, because you ride a bidet much like you would a pony.  That is… straddling it.

I take a lot of Americans around Europe and believe me, I’ve heard lots of “bidet” stories.  Here are some ways in which my tour members have utilized the bidets in their hotel rooms:

 

  • a foot washer;
  • a water fountain;
  • a urinal;
  • a place to shave one’s legs;
  • an object for “truth or dare”;
  • a replacement for bathing;
  • a laundry;
  • a dishwasher; and,
  •  a cooler for beer.

Bidets originated in France, several centuries ago as a means to wash after using the toilet, after having sex, or even after a day at the office.  In short, its purpose is to maintain clean personal hygiene without taking a full shower or bath.  So, now you know why lots of Europeans think they are clean when their pits smell to high heaven!

Here’s how to use a bidet:

  1. Test the water controls before getting on!  Some bidets have high pressure jets that squirt up to the ceiling if turned fully on.  Others have a faucet similar to a sink.  Some have hot and cold water valves while others have just one water valve.  The point here is to SLOWLY test out all the knobs, valves, and controls before getting on.
  2. If you are wearing pants, you have got to take them off!  Otherwise hike up your skirt or dress. Then straddle the bidet, facing the wall, so you’ll have full control of the knobs, controls, and valves.  Then, by positioning yourself and the faucet, direct the water to the area you want to clean.  It’s ok to use soap and your hands.  Some people prefer to face away from the wall and manipulate the controls in a contorted manner.  I ran across this hilarious video on YouTube that shows you how to do it from a Spaniard’s perspective.  Check it out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cunTYbi9yM
  3. Once finished, use toilet paper to dry off.  The towels hanging by the bidet are to dry off your hands after the whole procedure.  Don’t stick the towels down there to dry off, or you’ll hear it from the maids the next morning!

OK, that’s was pretty personal, but at least you’ve got no doubt about bidets.  Now, go experience some more of Europe!

-David

**You can add your two-cents worth by clicking on the comments link below.

TOILETS, TUBS, AND BIDETS (Part 1)

TOILETS

Public Toilets – for clarity’s sake let’s define a public toilet as any toilet outside a private home or your hotel room.  With that in mind, we also need to agree that public toilets vary greatly from country to country and even region to region in Europe. I’ll try to break it down by toilet type, starting with the “best” and moving to the “worst”.

HIGHWAY REST STOPS AND RESTAURANT TOILETS – These are usually the cleanest facilities you’ll find anywhere.  Normally highway restaurants are spaced every 100 km or so along major four-laned limited-access highways. In France and Italy, you’ll be expected to give a tip or even pay an entrance fee to use these toilets.  The usual cost is fifty euro-cents to one euro per person, so be prepared to have a few euro coins available.  In Germany and Austria, you’ll be expected to pay an “admission” fee of a euro or so to enter the toilet area.  Upon entering you’ll receive a ticket, be sure to keep it because it can be turned in at the cash register in the store or restaurant for a credit against items purchased.

RESTAURANTS- Toilet facilities can vary widely in restaurants and my general rule is to stay out of them if you can.  Most restaurants, especially in towns and cities, are located in century-old buildings which were not originally built with toilets in mind.  Consequently, they have been retrofitted with bathrooms that range from disgusting to adequate. The toilets can be especially lousy in restaurants found in France and Italy where they are usually located down in a basement or cellar.  The worst toilets date from the early 20th century and are basically a simple hole in the floor with a foot rest on either side.  Simply step up, aim, go, and drip dry. The general consensus is toilets of this type are disgusting and should be avoided at all costs. Others can be a bit more user friendly initially, but flushing can become a problem.  The best solution is to look up for something to pull, look down for some to push, or look around around for something to lift up or push down.  Of course there are clean and modern toilets too, but you’ll need no help with those unless it is one of those fully automatic models, in that case you’ll need to move quickly!

AMSTERDAM- In Amsterdam there are public urinals unlike anything I’ve ever experienced.  Imagine a pristine canal-side scene… swans floating serenely, bikes cluttering bridges, little boats floating by with couples in love, pastel classical buildings lining the lovely canals, and you’ve got a front row view from the public “pissor”!  These public urinals date back a hundred years to the age of art nouveau and the turn of the twentieth century.  I can’t imagine turn-of-the-century gentlemen needing to go so badly that these things just had to be out canal-side, but who knows?  Anyway don’t get mad at me for my description, but this is for real!  In Amsterdam (and in Brussels too, I’ve been told) there are public urinals for men.  These urinals, known as “pissors” are constructed of thin sheet metal, painted green in color, and are divided from the ground up into thirds.  The lower third is uncovered and exposes the subject’s (a.k.a. the pisser) legs up to the knee.  The middle third is constructed of thin, but solid sheet metal covering the “pisser” from the knees to the waist.  The final third of the “pissor” is made of sheet metal with small cut-outs in a “plus-sign” design so as to enable the “pisser” to look out and the passersby to look in.  What a concept!  Now for you guys, let me explain what’s going on inside, other than peeing that is.  Basically, you walk into this “nautilus” shaped contraption.  Once to the center you encounter a flat piece of steel, on which you are to pee, and below is a simple hole in the ground.  So while you are standing there, doing your business, your pee is splashing all over you, but you’ve got a grand view of all of Amsterdam!  There is nothing like it, try it once just for the thrill!

AUTOMATED TOILETS- These public toilets are usually found in big cities in France or Brussels and cost about a euro to use.  The entire toilet complex is a kiosk which is normally clean and pretty sterile.  Here’s how to use these toilets: look at the control panel beside the door; determine if the toilet is occupied or vacant; once vacant press the button and enter; do your business; exit the toilet kiosk.  Once you exit, the kiosk will go into self-cleaning mode spraying water, cleaner, and disinfectant all over the interior.  Then the entire interior is blown nice and dry.  Once the cleaning cycle is completed, the outside door panel will display that the toilet is ready for another customer.

Read part #2 of this article

-David

**You can add your two-cents worth by clicking on the comment link below.**