by David McGuffin | Aug 4, 2014 | Blog, David's Journal, Experiencing Europe
Enjoying the opportunity to sleep in!
We slept in this morning, knowing there would be plenty of time to explore Athens in the next few days. After breakfast, Charlotte and I checked out of the Electra Hotel and walked five blocks to their sister hotel, The Electra Palace. Normally, I do not change accommodations, but we are booking this trip as we go, not knowing from day-to-day what the next one holds.
The Electra Palace
The Electra Palace has one benefit over the Electra Hotel and that is its rooftop pool with grand views of the Acropolis. We are paying premium prices for our room here, but the benefit of having an “oasis” in the heart of Athens, plus the rooftop pool makes it a worthwhile expense.
Our tour “group” grows…
Our friend, Janey, arrived in Athens earlier this morning and was waiting for us in the hotel lobby. As expected, our rooms were not ready, so we gave the hotel a “once over” and headed up to the rooftop pool and bar area. We took a seat, with the Acropolis hovering over us in the distance, and sketched out a rough plan for our adventure in Greece.
I had been to Athens on three previous occasions, the first in 1977 (which I will continue to reference here in my writings), the second in the summer of 2006, and the last in December 2010. But beyond Athens (and the island day trips to Aegina, Porous, and Hydra), it is all going to be a new adventure. Our rough planned itinerary looks likes this: Athens, Delphi, Olympia, the Mani Peninsula, Napflio, and the island of Santorini.
A lazy afternoon at the pool…
Later, we checked into our rooms and while Janey napped off her jetlag, Charlotte and I changed into our bathing suits and headed to the pool. We enjoyed a relaxed lunch, cool dips in the pool, and great views of the Acropolis. We were so close I could see weary and over-heated tourist walking on the Acropolis, frantically trying to fit their sightseeing in during the hottest part of the day.
Me and my journal…
I became faithful with my journal entries in the summer of 1997. Since then, I’ve kept a pretty good record of things happening in my life and especially my travels. Over the years, my journal has become a companion and a place to escape, especially when traveling alone with no one to talk to. I enjoy putting my thoughts to paper and sketching. This afternoon, I tried to capture the mood and feel of the Acropolis with this sketch.
Sightseeing in the Plàka
Along about 5:30 p.m., we headed out for our sightseeing in the Plàka neighborhood. It was still hot and we stuck to the shady sides of the streets as we wound through the shopping streets, narrow lanes, past Byzantine-era churches, and the tourist oriented shops.
Ermou Street
Ermou is the main street leading from Sytagma Square into the Plàka. It once was filled with filth, loud traffic, and ugly signs. Since 2000, it has become a pedestrian-only area and both tourists and locals enjoys a stroll in this shopping oriented street.
Ermou Street
The Church of Kapnikarea
Athens was once a part of the vast Byzantine Empire which controlled much of Europe from A.D. 323-1453. This church, the Church of Kapnikarea, is a classic example of an 11th century Byzantine house of worship. Notice the classic Byzantine architectural designs including a red-tiled domed cupola topped with a cross and narrow and tall arched windows often with diamond-shaped trim.
The Church of Kapnikarea
Athen’s Cathedral
This church was built in 1842 and looks much worst for wear than other churches in the area dating from 600 years before! However, it is Athen’s most important Greek Orthodox church and the “head” church of the Greek Orthodox faith. It is in dismal condition! The interior and exterior are covered with scaffolding and shrouded in construction cloth. The placard outside does list a schedule of worship services… but ughh… I can’t imaging it here.
Athens Cathedral
Adrianou Street
This IS souvenir street! Adrianou Street runs from near the new Acropolis Museum, heads north, and then turns west to follow the lays of the Acropolis hill. For me, it is the “main drag” offering all the “Greek” trinkets and souvenirs. You’ll find it all… olive oils, olive wood, worry beads, jewelry, leather sandals, sponges, Pandora beads, Greek replica statues, t-shirts, and tons of stray cats!
Hello kitty
The Roman Forum and Tower of the Winds
The Romans conquered Greek about 150 B.C. and set up their own “Roman”-ized way of life. The Greek Agora (I’ll address that later) became a marble “boneyard” from which the “Roman” Athens was built. Now-a-days, this area is often called the Roman Agora, but the Roman’s called it the Forum. Like in Rome, it was the commercial center of the city. A place to shop, meet, see and be seen.
Much later, the Ottomans converted this area into a bazaar. There is a mosque here in the area, although its minarets were decapitated by the Greeks when they won their independence from the Ottomans in the 1800’s.
Roman Forum & Tower of the Winds
Notice also the eight-sided domed tower known as the “Tower of the Winds.” This tower was built in the 1st century B.C. and contains a clock, a guide to the planets, and a weathervane. The carved figures depict the “winds” as winged humans who fly in and bring the weather. Don’t bother asking anyone about the meaning of the eight ancient Greek symbols for the “winds.” I’ve found everyone makes up their own story… even the guides!
Tower of the Four Winds
Library of Hadrian
Hadrian was the Roman emperor in the 2nd century A.D. who had quite an affection for all things Greek. He had this library and civic center constructed for the Athenians. The building housed gardens, lecture halls, art galleries, and a library. Today, most of what you see is a reconstruction of one wall and a few Corinthian columns.
Library of Hadrian
Monastiraki Square
This is Athen’s second main city square loaded with old world class and style. The big building on the left is the metro station where tw0 train lines connect. From this square one could walk to the Archaeological Museum (1 mile to Omonia Square), feast on souvlaki (the typical Greek meat-on-a-stick fast food), wander into the old town, or or hop on the metro to zip off to far flung areas of town.
Monastiraki Square
By 7 p.m. we had experienced and seen the most important ancient and tourist sights in the Pàlka. Arriving at Monastriki Square and the Metro station, we decided to give the Ancient Agora a go. Following the Metro tracks, we soon came to the main Agora entrance and ticket booth.
Here’s a hint
Avoid long lines at archeological site ticket booths by arriving late in the afternoon. Alternatively, visit a lesser-known site entrance before the Acropolis. Purchase a €12 “strip ticket” for all the archeological sites in Athens including the Acropolis, Agora, Roman Forum, Keremikos Cemetery, Library of Hadrian, Theatre of Dionysus, and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. The ticket is valid for four days, and technically the attendant will tear off one “strip” for each site you visit. However, I did not have any collected except at the Acropolis. IF you purchase your ticket first at the Acropolis, then you’ll receive one ticket with a bar code that will be scanned at each site visited.
The Ancient Agora
Visiting the Ancient Agora during its final hour of the day was a good idea. Although the sun was still high and warm, there were only a few tourists milling around. We were able to see almost all the Agora sites in less than an hour, although it was a push to get up to the Temple of Hephaistos before the attendants began blowing their whistles to alert of the impending closing time of 8:00 p.m.
Temple of Hephaistos
This is one of the most well preserved of all Greek temples. Construction began here in 450 B.C. shortly after the entire Agora was destroyed by the invading Persians (480 B.C.). However, construction work stopped here while the Athenians concentrated on building the temples on the Acropolis, including the Parthenon. The temple is dedicated to Hephaistos, the “blacksmith” god and originally contained bronze statues of he and Athena.
Temple of Hephaistos
The temple was converted to a Christian church in 1300 A.D. and named the Church of St. George (the patron saint of Athens). Because of its continued use, the structure was maintained and kept up resulting in the wonderful condition in which we find it today.
The Agora in 1977
My notes, dated May 5, 1977, mention visiting the Temple of Hephaistos…
I got up at 6:15 am yesterday morning and walked down to the Temple of Zeus and took photos, then went to the Olympic Stadium and Royal Gardens. Doug and I then went and ate breakfast at the hotel. Then took an excursion to the ancient agora and the Theseion/Temple of Hephaistos and agora museum.
Here is the photo my friend Doug snapped of me standing in the temple. I recall back then we were allowed inside the temple and could actually see the ancient frieze in the alcoves depicting mythological battles between the Lapith tribe and a group of centaurs during a wedding feast.
Temple of Hephaistos 1977
Here is a photo Charlotte snapped of me in December 2010 during our visit to Athens. The temple has remained the same, I’ve not! Notice too that I was not allowed on the steps as the entire temple is fenced off.
Temple of Hephaistos 2010
Take the back gate for a speedy exit
We exited the Agora at the “back gate” up the hill in the direction of the Acropolis (Polygnotou “street” on your map). This put us up near the top (Prytaniou street) with great views of the Plàka and Athens to the north and the Acropolis looming just overhead to the south. We experienced a fantastic sunset and later, an almost full moon rising in the west.
Sunset over the Roman Forum
The Plàka is not flat.
It stretches consistently uphill until the slops of the Acropolis makes it impossible to build houses. Consequently, the “streets” are often no more than small cobbled pedestrian paths winding past shops, restaurants, and businesses. The farther uphill one wanders, the more steps and stairs are encountered.
Steps and more steps
One such place, called Mnisikleous, is known for a series of cobbled stairs stretching of 100 yards and lined with trendy restaurants offering good food, decent drinks, ok music, and plenty of ambience.
Mnisikleous Street dining
Capping off our day, we chose an outdoor restaurant known for authentic Greek food offered at very reasonable prices. Xenious Zeus is not a secret among tourist in Athens. This restaurant appears in all the guidebooks and is advertised as a place with good food and good prices. Since we were all the way up the hill, I thought we should give it a try.
.
For €12 we got a three-course meal featuring a selection of five Greek appetizers, called mezedes, a main course, and desert. We added a Greek Salad to share between the three of us. For a quick and unpretentious introduction to Greek cuisine, this place can’t be beat.
mezedes sampler
After dinner, we walked back to our hotel with a full moon rising in the west, our bellies full, and our bodies worn out. For me, this was the perfect mix of recovery, sightseeing, and dining to begin our adventures in Greece.
Read my previous post. Read my next post.
by David McGuffin | Jul 22, 2014 | David's Journal, Destinations
Leaving Ireland
I’ve been in Ireland for more than a month and although I love the Emerald Isle, I’m ready for a change. This morning, I was up at 4:30 and on my flight to Athens by 7:30. Even before my Aer Lingus flight took off, I was dozing.
Four hours and two time zones later we touched down in Athens to a totally different landscape than I’d left in Ireland. Gone were the 40 Shades of Green and patchwork quilted countryside. Now all I could glimpse out the small oval window were rocky mountains littered with scraggly shrubs, an occasional olive grove, and sun-burnt tumbleweeds.
Touchdown in Athens!
The unmistakable grinding of the landing gear being hoisted into position alerts me our landing is near. Looking out the window, I see we are flying into a valley with mountain peaks soaring above us. I know there is a runway somewhere up ahead, but I always wonder! The young Asian kids in the seat in front of me begin exclaiming, “IKEA, IKEA, IKEA”. I look out the window, and sure enough my first recognizable landmark in Greece is the big blue and yellow marquee of the do-it-your-self megastore.
Touchdown! Brakes! More brakes! Then a swift left turn and we are heading to our parking spot. No gate and gangplank for Aer Lingus! We park on the tarmac (Why do they call it that? There is no tar, it’s all concrete.) Rolling stairs are positioned at the front and rear doors, and off we go, heading to the terminal on foot.
Charlotte is meeting me here later today, so I’ve got four hours to waste in the airport until her KLM/SkyTeam flight arrives from Amsterdam. Knowing that I will eventually have groups arriving here for my Exploring Europe tours, I locate the toilets, ATM’s, money exchange, rental cars, public transportation, taxis, restaurants, and other typical airport facilities. Finally, I track down the EU and International arrivals portals (only two possibilities, areas A and B) and then get some lunch at a café.
I notice straightaway the prices are significantly cheaper here than in Ireland and the rest of Europe. My lunch cost about €15 for three courses including my drink. Yesterday in Ireland, I spent €25 plus drinks for my group’s final dinner in the seaside town of Howth.
Athens – The Parthenon
Charlotte’s flight is on time and arrives by 4:45. We connected within minutes and are in a taxi heading towards central Athens in no time. We’ve planned to stay here for three nights to tour Athens and adjust to Greece. I’ve chosen the Electra hotel group for our stay in the city. For me it is a proven hotel property that is centrally located in a safe and historic area of town. Upon arrival at the Electra Hotel, the reception agent tells us we have the “best room in the house”, gives us our key and we head up to our room.
The room is well… roomy and well appointed. Minutes after our arrival a gentleman shows up with a bowl of fruit and chilled bottled water… that’s a nice touch! We pulled the drapes and slept soundly for several hours. When we woke up, it was dark outside… about 9:30 p.m.
Flashback to 1977
This was my fourth trip to Athens’ Plaka neighborhood. The first had been in 1977 when I arrived with a group of 50 or so friends embarking on a three-week choir tour. I remember waking up that first morning in the Palka to the sounds of the street. All European cities have the same routine and associated sounds… if you are up early enough. Looking down from my balcony, I found shopkeepers washing the sidewalks with buckets of water and old scraggly brooms chatting with one another in a language foreign to me. Old men sitting at the café down the street with their first cup of coffee of the day. Dogs were wearily wandering around trying to find a morsel left from last night’s dinner, and kittens were running to and fro engaged in a skillful game of hide and seek. I’ve always remembered that first morning in Europe and given the chance, try to allow it to “evolve” naturally where ever I visit.
Let’s Eat!
Ok, back to present day… I asked at the hotel desk for a place to get dinner. The lady at reception quizzed me on what type of place we were looking for… fancy, four-star, typical Greek, local, or humble family-owned place. You probably know my answer,
And her directions went something like this, “out the door go left, at the corner-left, then straight, straight, straight (imagine hand motions), then right and straight, straight, straight, at the theatre turn left to the place.”
We ended up on a small square in the heart of the Plaka neighborhood surrounded by local restaurants spilling out onto the sidewalk. It was kind of funny that the lady had directed us to a place named simply “Trattoria”, a term associated with Italy, certainly not Greece. I think Charlotte and I both ordered a Greek Salad (the first of many), shrimp saganaki, and traditional chicken souvlaki with roasted potatoes.
Shrimp Saganiki
Walking back to the hotel we noticed an almost full moon rising above a nearby church. Here is Charlotte’s photo:
Back in the room and after an long day for both of us, we turn the A/C down to 18°C, pulled the drapes, and sleep soundly all night.
Read my previous post in this series. Read my next post in this series.
by David McGuffin | Mar 16, 2012 | David's Journal, Destinations
ROME- My flight landed at 6:30 a.m. at Rome’s Leonardo DaVinci Airport. No long lines this time of morning! I was out the door and on the Leonard Express train within 20 minutes. I made a transfer to the Metro for a short ride to Piazza Spagna.
The piazza and Spanish Steps were desolate this time of the morning, just me and a few stray street cleaners. Using Google maps on my iPhone I found my hotel was about a 30-minute walk, so I struck off across town.
Hotel Palm Gallery is in a residential area north of Rome’s historic city center. With it being only 8:30 a.m., my room was not ready, but I was invited for breakfast. Leaving my luggage at the office, I took a quick walk around the neighborhood and discovered a quiet park, two public schools, a coffee shop, a pizzeria, and the bus stops connecting my hotel neighborhood with central Rome.
The park near my hotel
Returning to the hotel, I checked into my room and took a nap for about an hour. By noon, I was refreshed, and on my way to the nearby Villa Borghese.
by David McGuffin | Dec 4, 2011 | 1997 Journal Series, Adventures in Tour Guiding, David's Journal, Destinations
I’m chronicling my first European Band Tour in 1997. This tour was instrumental in formulating my group travel philosophy and standards. Ultimately, it gave me knowledge, confidence, and practical experience that I needed to begin touring on my own.
Continuing my journal entry and retrospective comments…
“June 8, 1997
For the second morning in a row, my sleep was interrupted by the annoying alarm. It was 6:20, and operating on four hours of sleep is just not a good way to begin a new day.
At breakfast, I learned that Jason was sick and had been throwing up for several hours. Everyone else seems fine, but I hope it is not some “bug” going around. Not wanting to leave Jason alone, the chaperones devised a rotation so that an adult was at the hotel, with Jason, for the day. This plan, although not simple, was the smart and proper thing for us to do. I did not want to leave a sick kid alone at the hotel all day. Mike, having visited Versailles in the past, volunteered for the first shift.
During breakfast, I encountered more sleepy-eyed group members going through the motions of eating. I switched up on my breakfast choice this morning, deciding to forgo the ubiquitous croissant for a bowl of cereal. However, I was disappointed to find that the milk was tepid and thick! I’m just not accustomed to 100% whole milk served at the temperature from which it exits the cow!
Once again, we gathered on the sidewalk, waiting for our bus to arrive. Thankfully, no one stepped in dog poop today! Alberto showed up with the bus, and soon we were off to visit Versailles and the palace of Louis XIV and others.
It is Sunday morning, so there is very little traffic on the streets. After twenty minutes, Sally, in a fit of panic, discovered she did not have her Paris Museum Pass with her. She concluded it was in her hotel room, so we turned around and went back to get it. Even with the delay, we still made it to Versailles by 9:00 a.m. It was a bit of a hike over a rough, cobbled courtyard to the entrance area. As soon as we got into the queue to enter, Sarah H. told me she had left her passport, money belt, and entrance ticket on the bus. Ughhh, how many times do I have to say it? “Wear your money belt all the time.”
Vincent helped Sarah locate the bus in the huge parking lot. Luckily, Alberto, the driver, was at the bus. She got her money belt and ticket and was able to actually go in and visit the “Hall of Mirrors,” which she had been talking about for the entire trip out here.
The adults, who had Museum Passes, walked right in without any wait. Lisa, our guide, took the students and got them through the queue in short order as well.
Versailles is a magnificent place, but it reminds me of the other palaces I’ve visited around Europe. Just like the Doges Palace, the Pitti Palace, and Schönbrunn Palace, Versailles is filled with opulence and overindulgences of the rich and royals. If you’ve seen one rich ruler’s palace, you can pretty much imagine what to expect in all the others.
Regular admission is 35F, and we paid 70F for our Paris Museum Pass, so we’ve got to visit at least one other sight back in Paris to make it worth the cost.
After completing our self-guided tour of the palace, we all gathered out in the gardens for photos. As mentioned, it was Sunday, so the gardens were technically closed until later in the day when the famous fountains were activated. We did not have time to wait for that, so we loaded up the bus and returned to Paris.
We returned to Paris by about 11:30 a.m. Our concert was scheduled later that afternoon, and since it was early, we decided to take advantage of our free time in the Luxembourg Gardens area. After getting off the bus, the group divided and went their separate ways. I accompanied Charlotte and Mom to the Métro station, from which they would return to the hotel to keep an eye on the sickly Jason. Mike is going to return here to see the concert.
On the way back to Luxembourg Gardens, I purchased a grilled chicken sandwich, a Coke Lite, and a brownie for 35F at a place called “LA CROISSANTERIE,” a chain-type place on rue St. Michel. So, I am sitting on a park bench eating and enjoying the pleasant sights, scenes, and sounds of the Luxembourg Gardens. This is a nice shady park with plenty of benches and pathways. There are all sorts of people out enjoying the day, although most seem to be locals, not tourists.
We are due to assemble for our concert in about 15 minutes. It will be tough if Jason does not show, because he plays the baritone saxophone, an essential element to our band “sound.” However, whatever happens, the concert must go on.
The concert was a success. The band played well and really got into the music. More importantly, the 300 or so people in the audience were enthusiastic and really helped us get into our musical performance. As I mentioned, most were local Parisians who seemed to have actually arranged their afternoon plans to include this band concert. I have never experienced anything like this before!
Musically speaking, it was an excellent concert. The kids played with enthusiasm and energy. The benefit of having Devon, Keith, and Carey as leads really helped our sound and energy. Even Jessie, who had learned to play the tuba exclusively for this trip, did a great job. So, Jason being sick did not hurt us too much at all.
The audience consisted of mostly retired people, kids, and young families. They had come to the bandstand with listening and enjoying a band concert in mind, so different from what we are accustomed to back home, when typically an outdoor concert serves only as background music.
Little kids were dancing to the “Big Band” stuff, while older couples did the jitterbug! It was the most enjoyable concert that I have ever experienced. I just wished we had prepared more literature! Our band played three encores including “The Stars and Stripes Forever.” WOW!
After the concert, we packed up and had about three hours of free time to visit Paris on our own. Some went to the Orsay Museum and others to the Cluny. I went to St. Chappelle with Charlotte and Aunt Hilda.
After the concert, we had to make another switch of adults keeping watch with Jason. Charlotte had stayed with Jason, while Mike and Mom returned to Luxembourg Gardens for the concert. Mom left the concert and went to relieve Charlotte back at the hotel. It seems that on Charlotte’s return trip, she was approached by a guy who harassed her during the entire Métro trip. Even when she changed trains, he followed her! So, needless to say, when I met her at the St. Michel station, she was very upset. My lesson here is to never again let anyone ride public transportation alone!
St. Chapelle is a magnificent church located just around the corner from Notre Dame. It is famous for its beautiful stained-glass windows and richly painted stonework. Unlike most other churches, dating from the middle ages, St. Chapelle still has richly painted interior arches and ornate stonework, just as it was 900 years ago. Visiting here is well worth the time and a “Museum Pass” made it easy and thrifty too.
After the St. Chapelle experience, we had planned to visit the Orsay museum, but there just was not enough time. Instead, we found a café and ordered bread, cheese, wine, and Orangina. This was very relaxing and a good way to spend the hour before dinner.
We met for dinner at SALLAMBO’S, a place specializing in Northern African cuisine. Here we had couscous (a type of ground meal), chicken, vegetables, and tomato soup. It was okay, but not something I would not PAY for to eat again. None of us had ever eaten couscous, the chicken was quartered and served on the bone, and in some cases it was undercooked. Most of the kids did not even touch their meals.
After dinner, we met our bus and headed to the “Bateaux Mouches” Seine River Cruise boat. We spent an hour and a half on the boat, joined by about 300 Japanese people who were all intent on posing for photographs.
We noticed the Japanese group was shooting photos of almost anything that “looked important.” So, I decided to play a little joke. A few of us started pointing and saying, “Look!” and holding our cameras up as if we were taking a photograph. Invariably, the entire group of Japanese tourists would leave their side of the boat, hustle over to our side, to take a photo of our “sight.” I know it was mean, but it was fun!
After the cruise, we boarded our bus and drove back to our hotel. It was 10:15 p.m. and Jason was feeling better. After the long day, Charlotte and I had no trouble, once again, falling asleep.”
2011 Reflections
JASON, THE SICK KID – I have been a teacher for 29 years, so you would think I’d have heard all the lies, stories, and excuses a kid can dream up. However, in this case, I was fooled. I learned, years later, Jason was not sick, but actually got his hands on some alcohol and drank too much of it (which was totally against my tour rules). Consequently, he was suffering from the effects of it the next day. What I can’t believe is that no one told me! Had I known, I would have roused him out of bed and marched him around the city all day. Even today, I do not know where he got the booze.
Because of Jason’s “sickness,” we had to redesign our entire day of touring. Several adults made big sacrifices shuttling back and forth on the Métro, missing perhaps their only opportunity ever to experience Paris. Charlotte suffered that “harassment” on the Métro. The band had to perform without a key player.
VERSAILLES – Very little has changed on the interior of Versailles. It is still very crowded, it is hot in the summer, there is very little in the way of information, and the tourist route is unbelievably small. However, the “Hall of Mirrors” received a complete restoration in 2007-2008, so now it is in pristine condition.
THE CONCERT – As I mentioned, it was (and still is) the best concert experience I’ve ever been a part of. Even now, I think back to the wonderful afternoon filled with singing, dancing, and decent band music. The older crowd particularly enjoyed the swing music and many got up and danced to it. As a whole, it was the audience interaction, which made the concert memorable. We did not perform particularly well, but that did not matter. The local audience had made it their plan to attend the concert this Sunday afternoon.
Since then, I’ve made a point to go by Luxembourg Gardens on Sunday afternoons. That bandstand is still there and onstage is usually a band or orchestra playing their hearts out. The audience is mostly the same as it was in 1997. Young and old alike enjoy the afternoon music, dancing a jig, and experiencing life.
NORTH AFRICAN DINNER – Seriously, here we are in Paris, and we get chicken and couscous? In 1997, I’d never had couscous and after tasting it, didn’t care if I ever tried it again. I recall that Brian’s chicken was practically raw, and we tried to send it back for more cooking, but the piece never made it back to our table. However, it really did not matter because hardly anyone ate the dinner.
BATEAUX MOUCHES BOAT – Like Versailles, this boat tour on the Seine River has not changed. Even today, my tours always include a scenic trip on the Seine, at night, with all the monuments and bridges illuminated. It is a great way to experience Paris and get an overview of its grandeur.
MY UNDER 21 ALCOHOL POLICY – Back in 1997, I was not experienced with this European liberty. So, I adopted the policy given to me by the tour company. Essentially, if a parent signed a release stating their child could drink alcohol “in moderation,” then that was ok. In retrospect, that was not a good decision. The trouble is, kids from the USA go to Europe thinking they have free-reign with alcohol consumption because they are not “under-age” there. This is not an easy issue, and I am still working through it, even after all these years. I will continue this line of thought in a later post.
Episode 5 coming soon: Trucker’s Strike, Chartres, and Alsace
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by David McGuffin | Nov 20, 2011 | 1997 Journal Series, Adventures in Tour Guiding, David's Journal, Destinations, Experiencing Europe
I’m chronicling my first European Band Tour in 1997. This tour was instrumental in formulating my group travel philosophy and standards. Ultimately, it gave me knowledge, confidence, and practical experience that I needed to begin touring on my own.
Continuing my journal entry and retrospective comments…
June 7, 1997
I was a jarred awake by my alarm at 7:00 a.m.! Since this was the first night I’d slept in a bed for two days, I really was not in the mood to get up and get moving. It had been very warm last night while I was trying to drift off to sleep. But once sleep came, I was out for the duration. In retrospect, I am glad I did not have any “chaperoning” duties, because I’m afraid I would have been caught sleeping on the job! However, I suspect the other adults were just as worn out as me. I’m not quite sure how or what the “kids” did throughout the night. I hope they slept!
I am in the breakfast room trying to write this entry and get some food. We were served a “continental” breakfast consisting of a hard roll, croissants, jelly, butter, coffee or tea, and watery orange juice. Although this is a typical French breakfast, it is rather institutionalized, being served in a sterile basement cafeteria on paper and plastic trays.
After breakfast, we assembled on the front “lawn” of our hotel to meet our bus and driver. While waiting, one of the kids stepped in a pile of French dog poop. The sidewalks are littered with this stuff at seemingly every tree or bush. So, after waiting for him to clean up, we boarded the bus for a tour of Paris’s historic landmarks.
The Cathedral “Notre Dame” wowed everyone with its twin bell towers, flying buttresses, and huge stained glass rose-shaped windows. This is only my second trip to Paris and I am trying to take it all in, when it comes to the sights. Lisa took time to point out some features of Notre Dame, such as the bas-relief carvings over the front door depicting God’s judgement of the dead. Seeing those goulish demons on God’s left, descending to hell, is enough to make anyone walk the straight and narrow! Lisa also pointed out the carving of the headless St. Denis, near the left exit doors, and his significance as one of the patron saints of Paris.
After visiting Notre Dame, we boarded the bus and drove down the river passing the Latin Quarter (known so for the “education” that has occurred here). Crossing the river we saw the Louvre, Tullieries, Champs Elysée, the Arch de Triomphe, and finally to the Trocadero. Stopping here, we got off the bus and enjoyed a fantastic view of the Eiffel Tower. Back on the bus, we drove a few blocks to the Opéra neighborhood, where we had free time for shopping and lunch.
Several decided to have lunch at one of the many cafés lining the grand “Boulevard de l’Opéra.” I enjoyed “moules” (mussels) cooked in wine, herbs, and garlic butter and all the bread I cared to eat. Charlotte and Aunt Hilda had French Onion Soup, which I think was better than Bern’s. Mom had some salmon spread with salad. We also had a bottle of slightly chilled red wine from the Loire region, which went well with our meals. [WINE NOTE: Loire Valley-COULY-DUTHEIL Saumier Champigny 1996 46F]
After lunch, we rode our bus to the Musée du Louvre. As a group, we entered at the portal near “Rue Rivoli” and were set free to wander on our own. Several joined Charlotte and me to follow the “Rick Steves Guidebook” tour. It worked pretty well, but this is a big museum and after two hours, we had had about all we could stand. Looking for a place to sit and rest, we discovered a café on the top veranda of the Denon wing that served a refreshing orange drink known as ‘Orangina.’ This café was a cool and refreshing change from the crowded galleries and halls. It also provided a great view of the inner courtyard and modern pyramid entrance.
From the Louvre, we walked to the ‘La Boucherie’ Restaurant, where we had dinner. The menu was the best yet: salad, wonderful mashed potatoes, and steak.
After dinner, Lisa led a walking tour in the direction of the Pompidou, a modern art center. The walk from the restaurant to the Pompidou was fine, but the area immediately surrounding the Pompidou Center was dirty and a bit seedy. A little later, we met our bus and driver at the Bourse and drove to the Eiffel Tower.
The famous tower complex was engulfed with crowds when we arrived at 9:30 p.m. (the sun does not set until 10:30). Right away, Lisa purchased our tickets. After standing in line for about thirty minutes, we were on our way to the top.
Over the months leading up to our trip, Brian had been worried about the elevator trip up to the top. He has always been afraid of heights, roller coasters, and the like, so as we ascended, it seemed that the elevator cabin would never stop going up, and up, and up. We crammed Brian in the center of the cabin, and everyone crowded around him. Actually, there were so many people in the cabin, we felt like the proverbial “can of sardines.” I watched as the horizon disappeared into the skyline. Finally, the elevator stopped. We were at the top and all was well! From the summit, the Paris skylines twinkled with millions of amber lights. The hustle, bustle, and traffic noise of the city, 900 feet below, was replaced by silence interspersed with “wows,” “oohhs,” and “ahhhs.” As we were leaving, someone noticed a fireworks display off to the east. Watching that from “above” was a unique experience that I’ll never forget.
The trip back down was extremely crowded; we had to wait in a long line to change elevator cabins on level two, but we were back on the ground by 11:40 p.m. Once again, we returned, by Métro, to our hotel. After an hour on the subway, I was once again tuckered out and ready for bed.
Memories from today: Matt left the drummer’s bag containing all their sticks on the Paris bus; he and his dad spend much of the day tracking the bus down and recovering the sticks. Kissing Charlotte at the top of the Eiffel Tower was a highlight! We walked many miles. Lunch with my family was a treat. I took pleasure in watching my students experience Paris while having fun with their friends. Today was one of those days that makes me happy and fulfilled to be a teacher!
That’s it for this entry; it is 1:50 a.m. and we are due for another 6:30 a.m. wake-up call. I had better get some sleep.
-David
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2011 Reflections:
I remember we did a lot of riding on the bus from one sight to the next that morning. Rules for buses and emissions have drastically changed since those days. Now, buses are not permitted to drop off and pick up passengers at the major tourist sights in the city center. Other cities such as London, Rome, and Florence impose incredibly high fees for tour buses to enter the “tourist zones.”
Today, when in Paris, my tour groups do quite a bit of walking and riding the Métro. Walking and experiencing public transportation is exactly what “Exploring Europe” is all about. Doing so requires that one learn to live like a local, speak some of the languages, and experience Paris from an insider’s perspective. I think it’s the only way to travel!
ORANGINA – Based on my journal entry, I suppose this was the first time I’d run across “Orangina.” I recall we were so parched and tired from “touring” the Louvre, that the cafe was a welcomed sight for sore feet! The little bottle of “Orangina” was chilled (unlike the soda we had been drinking) and served with a cute matching glass filled with several cubes of ice!
French Onion Soup and my reference to “Bern’s.” – Bern’s Steakhouse is located in Tampa, Florida, and ranks #1 on my list of favorite restaurants. I began going the “Bern’s” in the early 1980’s as a guest of Roger Mayer, a musical instrument dealer. Ever since my first visit, it has set my standard for many food types, such as French onion soup. You can read my blog article about Bern’s by following this link.
The EIFFEL TOWER’S Countdown Clock – Throughout the late 1990’s the Eiffel Tower sported a digital “countdown” to the year 2000. Notice, here in 1997, we were 938 days before January 1, 2000.
LOOK AT WHAT WE WERE WEARING! – From these pictures, I can tell I had not yet formulated my travel attire opinions. Short shorts and tee-shirts would never make it on my packing list these days. Look at me! I’m the “typical American tourist” with my aviator-style sunglasses, an LL Bean canvas hat, shorts, ankle-high hiking boots, and that huge backpack! Why am I wearing those sunglasses on the Métro, at night?
THE BEST DINNER YET? – Notice my comments about the meal at “Restaurant La Boucherie,” “Salad, WONDERFUL mashed potatoes, and steak.” I think “comfort food” reminding us of home. I have no doubt, the food was good. Even today the mashed potatoes and steak sounds great. However, there is so much more in the way of “French” food to be had in Paris.
This is a photo I snapped of our “starter” course on a recent 2011 tour in Paris. Chilled tomato soup (gazpacho) with fresh salmon was a savory hit with my travel partners. This was followed by a choice of three main dishes and dessert. At Exploring Europe, I typically spend 20-30 euro per person for evening dining experiences.
That “best-yet” meal we devoured at “La Boucherie” would go for about seven euros in today’s tourism dollars. For a “taste and see” culinary tour, consider reading my blog article featuring dining experiences on my 2011 Scotland and Ireland tour.
ONE HOUR Métro commute to our Paris hotel – While staying in central Paris is expensive, I think it is a sensible splurge to enhance one’s total tour experience. As we found out, the “Residence Internationale de Paris” was on the outskirts of Paris, far away from the tourist attractions. I am sure the tour company got it for a bargain and considered it adequate for the type of tour they were running. But, I’ve learned from experience, it is better to spend a little more for a safe, clean, and city-centered hotel.
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by David McGuffin | Nov 14, 2011 | Adventures in Tour Guiding, David's Journal, Destinations, Experiencing Europe
I’m chronicling my first European Band Tour in 1997. This tour was instrumental in formulating my group travel philosophy and standards. Ultimately, it gave me knowledge, confidence, and practical experience that I needed to begin touring on my own.
Continuing my journal entry and retrospective comments…
“June 6, 1997
Our flight arrived at Paris’ Charles De Gaulle Airport at 9:15 a.m. After clearing Customs, we were met by Lisa, our EF tour guide. The bus ride from the airport to central Paris was filled with excited travelers, marveling at the signage in a “foreign language,” checking out the smaller and faster cars on the highway, and trying to locate the Eiffel Tower on the skyline.
So far, Lisa is doing a great job, although we have not done much. We transferred, by private bus, to our hotel, ‘Residence Internationale de Paris, 44 rue Louis Lumiere.This place is in a residential area with quite an eclectic population. On first sight, it appears to be okay; it is comfortable, but a little hot. There is no air conditioning in the rooms. I believe this place is known as a “residence,” because it appears there are people living here on long-term contracts. Actually, many of the “residents” appear to have physical disabilities, so perhaps this place is some sort of a rehabilitation facility that rents out rooms as well.
After settling in, we gathered in a conference room. Lisa presented a tour overview, made introductions, and briefed us on Paris and how to navigate the Métro. Shortly, we plan to go out and visit Paris.
Leaving the hotel, we took the Métro to the Montmartre area. This journey required a change of trains in an underground Métro station. It was a bit scary trying to keep up with everyone, making sure they made the switch and got on the correct train. Most of the group had never ridden a subway, so the entire process was a learning experience. Everyone made the journey, without getting lost, upset, or robbed!
Exiting the underground, at the Anvers Métro station, was a cultural shock for all of us. While Lisa was interested in pointing out the historic Art Nouveau Métro sign, I was interested in keeping my group together, safe, and away from the vagabonds and winos littering the street. Apparently, we had “popped out” of the Métro in the median of the Boulevard de Clichy, a place known for sex shops, prostitutes, vagrants, and rubbish.
Things went from bad to worse as we crossed the street and began our en-mass tourist trek up the dirty street toward the Sacré Coeur. Michael, one of the parents on my tour, was targeted as a prime candidate for pick-pocketing by a gang of small “gypsy” children. I can’t blame them; Michael was wearing a large backpack and had several cameras strung around his neck. That getup, combined with khaki pants, white tennis shoes, and a straw hat, pegged him for sure as an American tourist. On more than one occasion, he had to literally beat off the gypsy kids who were trying to pick his pocket.
Finally, we reached the end of that crowded street, coming to a park with several steep stairways leading up to the Sacré Coeur, a beautiful white church at the top of the hill. I thought, “Whew, we survived that and are finally to safety.” We all huddled around Lisa, like she was our mother hen, listening to her “speil” about the area and its history. Then, just when I was beginning to relax, thinking all my kids were safe, she suggested we split up and get lunch on our own. Alarm bells went off inside my head. I was very hesitant to “release” my students to go wander the neighborhood in search of food. So instead, we all just walked across the street and bought lunch at a hot dog stand.
Lunch consisted of a hot dog with cheese (15FF) and a Diet coke (10FF). HA! What a great way to begin a tour to France with such a gourmet meal.
After lunch, we hiked up the steps to the Basilica and went inside. The interior was disappointing, as it was under renovation with scaffolding all over the place. However, the views from here are great; you can see all of Paris looking South across the river. If you leaned out and look beyond the trees to the right, you can even see the Eiffel Tower.
Leaving the Basilica Sacré Coeur, we walked toward the Bohemian-inspired area known as Montmartre. In the early 20th century, starving artists, musicians, and dancers lived here together in a commune. This enclave became famous for cheap rent, all-night parties, sleepy days, and artistic creativity. Today, the place is still filled with artists gathering to sketch, draw, and sell portraits. Sarah, Sabrina, and Carey finally caved into the artists constant hounding; they “commissioned” sketches at a cost of 20FF for a black and white sketch to 150FF for a color portrait.
I am feeling okay, not too much jet-lag! But, I think this is due to my sleeping on the flight to Paris last night. Holly has become sick and thrown-up, and Leslie is not feeling well either. All I can remember is how I felt in Amsterdam in 1995, so I sympathize with them.
From Montmartre, we went by subway to the old marketplace with outside fruit vendors known as Rue de Sentier (MO:Sentier). After a brief walk through some heavy traffic, we arrived at the “les Halles” gardens, more specifically the Place René Cassin. My son, Brian, decided to bring his skateboard on this tour. So, today, our first day in Paris, here he was toting it around all day on his special backpack designed to carry a board. Then we arrived at Henri de Miller’s 70-ton statue known as “ecoute,” translated as “listen” in English.
By this time, my hearty lunch had worn off, so I was excited to eat at our first “real” French restaurant for dinner. Apparently, it was a big French chain-type restaurant known as ” Hippotamus.” Here, we dined on the gourmet French delicacies of white rice, chicken ka-bobs, lettuce with dressing, and chocolate mousse. I purchased a “Coke Light” for 10FF.
After eating, we took the Métro back to the hotel. It was a forty-five-minute ride with one transfer. When I finally got to my room, I was totally worn out and fell asleep immediately. I think the kids stayed up most of the night playing cards in our third-floor lobby area. Occasionally, when I woke up, I could hear them outside my door.
2011 Reflections-
If I remember correctly, clearing security and customs was a breeze. It was in the “old” Terminal I, Charles De Gaulle. I remember thinking that I’d seen those inclined escalators and walkways (housed in a tube) in a James Bond movie. Today that place seems so “old” and run down. In 2007, we went through Terminal I several times, and it seemed they were always working on the place with new sheetrock, barriers, and layouts. Now, in 2011, remodeling is still in progress, but just minor painting and traffic routing. The “escalator tubes” still harken back to the 1970’s, but in a nice nostalgic way.
Montmartre has not changed much in fifty years. When I took my students in 1997, Montmartre was exactly as it is today. Rounding the corner, as you head to the left of the Sacré Coeur, the local artists form a gauntlet of sorts and pester everyone about posing for a portrait or sketch. Many use the bait and switch tactic of snagging tourists as models so they can practice their artistic craft. Then, when the sketch is completed, insist on giving it away to the “model,” but only if they pay for it.
My advice is to avoid and ignore the initial onslaught of sketch artists and keep on walking. There are better professional artists in the Place du Tertre, the main square in Montmartre. In March 2011, after a week of “scouting” the artists, I finally broke down and paid for a color portrait. The artists, an elderly gentleman who looked like Santa Claus, held me captive for about forty-five minutes while making a pretty good pencil sketch of me.
Hot dogs and Diet Coke! What was I thinking! Nowadays I walk the 200+ steps to the Sacré Coeur, give everybody a chance to look around, catch their breath, and see inside the Basicila. Then, we head uphill and around the corner to Montmartre, fight the artist gauntlet, and visit Place du Tertre.
For a snack of soup, cheese, or salad, there is no place better than one of the cafes surrounding Place du Tertre. Combine that with a coffee or glass of wine and the ambiance is divine. For a more substantial dining experience, walk on down toward the windmill, and find a local place. I’ve got plenty of suggestions for dinner.
How about that exchange rate?!
15FF for a hotdog= $1.50USD back then
10FF for a coke light= $1.00USD
sketches and paintings 20FF-150FF=$4-20USD
Rue de Sentier, that’s near the Borse, and that’s just a short distance from the “market area” I referred to known as les Halles. This grand marketplace is no longer here; in fact, it was leveled in 1971 and replaced with a pitiful underground marketplace, now a major RER station.
The Hippopotomus! White rice, kabobs, etc is one of the main reason I decided to venture out on my own. There is so much more to Parisian cuisine than this!
And I can’t leave without discussing the hotel Residence Internationale de Paris. This place is okay, but it was way, way, way out on the outskirts of the city center. It took a 30 minute Metro ride with several changes just to get to the Latin Quarter. The neighborhood was a little sketchy with hookers on the streets between Metro stops. Don’t get me wrong; I even used this place once after founding my tour company, but there is a lot better to be had for the price in Paris.
Go to Episode 3
The Electra Palace has one benefit over the Electra Hotel and that is its rooftop pool with grand views of the Acropolis. We are paying premium prices for our room here, but the benefit of having an “oasis” in the heart of Athens, plus the rooftop pool makes it a worthwhile expense.
