I learned to ride the Subway in Munich

I learned to ride the Subway in Munich

by David McGuffin

I learned to ride the subway in  Munich.  Thirty years ago, I was teaching band at the local junior high school, and one summer, I gathered up six students and headed off to Europe.  That was not my first trip to Europe, but Bavaria and Munich were new destinations for me.  Previously, I’d traveled to rural destinations in the Swiss Alps, French villages, and the big three Italian destinations of Venice, Florence, and Rome.  None of which required me to use public transportation to get around.

Arriving in Munich, our group did the usual tourist sightseeing activities.   Our guide took us to see the historic town center, the Glockenspiel, Residence, and Nymphenburg Palace. Then, we were left to explore on our own for a few hours.  I decided to buy a public transit day pass, which provided access to city buses, trams, and subways.  In Munich, the U-Bahn and S-Bahn are primarily underground trains that run through the city center and into the suburbs.  Being from a small town in Florida, I’d never had the opportunity to venture down into the depths of the underground tunnels and zip from one neighborhood to the other.  It was fascinating to me to think about all the work that went into digging the tunnels, laying the track, and mapping out the underground routes.

First, I had to learn how the underground system worked.  With the help of a map of the underground system, I determined my final destination and the direction of travel.  Each train was color-coded and numbered, such as Blue U4.  With this knowledge and an overground city map, I’d decided where I wanted to go and how to get there underground.  I made a good many mistakes, sometimes riding the right train in the wrong direction or riding the wrong train in the right direction. 

I recalled reading about the September 1972 Munich Summer Olympics and the terrorist massacre.  And although we were now 20 years beyond the event, the massacre and the unique Olympic pavilions still drew sightseers.   So, off I went on the U-Bahn to Olympic Park.  As I emerged from the underground, I found myself not in the busy city center but in an urban park, lush and green, with the acrylic glass-paneled Olympic stadium gleaming in the distance.  Although I didn’t have time for a proper tour, I did manage to wander into both the large track and field stadium and the swimming pavilion.  While exploring, I came across a group of German public works employees, apparently on their lunch break, sitting under the trees, eating sausages and bread, and drinking lots of Hofbräu beer. To this day, I still don’t know how one can go back to work after a beer or two during lunch.

Back on the underground, I headed toward the city but decided to hop off at the Theresienwiese, the site of the famed Octoberfest.  I was disappointed when I emerged from the underground only to find an empty 100-acre limestone parking lot with not a beer festival tent in sight.  Later, I found out the place was empty except during the spring fair, the Christmas fair, and the Octoberfest celebration in September and early October.  Disappointed, I headed back to the U-Bahn entrance but was distracted by the beautiful St. Paul’s Church, its red steeple, and bells tolling the noon hour.   

While returning to the town center of Marienplatz, I decided to exit the underground and try my luck on the tram.  These streetcar-like trams run on tracks, primarily in the streets, throughout Munich’s neighborhoods.  I headed in the direction of the University and English Gardens. 

Somewhere, I’d read about a swiftly running stream where surfers gathered to ride the one wave created by a waterfall in the river.  I decided to rent a bike and take in some of this 900-acre city park.  It didn’t take long to find it! There was a big crowd of onlookers cheering on a slew of “surfers.” There was a system; the surfers qued on the riverbank. When one surfer fell or dipped out of the wave, the next hopped in, making an endless surfing show.

Soon, I was pedaling through the park on an easy path between the forest and the stream.  All of a sudden, I was stunned and almost ran into a tree!  There, right in front of me, was a man and his son (I assume) playing Frisbee.  They were both completely naked, running and flopping around with vigor, leaping and dashing to catch the Frisbee.  Looking around, I noticed I was the only one around who was clothed.  Men, women, boys, and girls, all in their birthday suits, were perfectly happy to soak up the sun, picnic, play, and enjoy life on that grass meadow by the stream.  Later, I learned that many Germans, including those from Munich, are not shy about their bodies. Although one is required to wear clothing on the trams, it’s perfectly fine to bare it all in the English Gardens! 

Since I wasn’t prepared to join them and take a dip in the stream, I turned in my bike and took the U-Bahn one last trip to Marienplatz, the center of the old town.  From there, I wandered a few blocks over to the Hofbraühaüs, the world-famous beer hall.  Walking in the front door, I was immediately enveloped by oom-pap music, thousands of voices, and a sauna-like damp heat, all mixed with the underlying, slightly pleasant smell of yeast and hops. 

This place was huge! There were several hundred long plank tables, each about 30 feet in length, filled, thigh to thigh, with people eating and drinking.  There are no saved seats here… find a space and settle in!  Soon, a waiter came by to take my order and bring me a liter-sized mug filled with frothy Hofbraü beer.  Bratwurst and sauerkraut followed, accompanied by a big dollop of spicy brown mustard. 

In Munich that day, I learned to make the most of what I had and turn it into an adventure.   A subway pass, bike rental, and curiosity taught me a lot about exploring Europe.  Now, even after scores of visits to Munich, I always seek out a new adventure, but none will ever top that first thirty-something years ago.

1977 Lunch in Rome on flight layover to Athens

Munich Frauenkirche

Munich Oylmpic Stadium

OctoberFest fun

English Gardens?

Prost from the Hofbraühaus

Beer Hall band
Why Italy is my Favorite Country

Why Italy is my Favorite Country

by David McGuffin

I often get asked, “What is your favorite destination?” Years ago, that question was difficult, but after almost 50 years on the road, I’ve got my answer.  Paris is my favorite city, and Italy is my favorite country.  

Since we are focusing on Italy this month, let me tell you why I love Italy. In 1977, I went on my first international trip. Although Italy was a destination on that three-week tour, I thought Greece was our first destination. Back then, I was along for the ride with the rest of my friends, and a detailed study of the itinerary did not happen. As it turned out, our flight went overnight from New York JFK to Rome, and we had a long layover at the Rome airport. Back in those days, before 9/11, security checks and leaving the airport were not a problem. So, we left the airport, got on a bus, and went to a countryside restaurant for lunch.      

I only had a Kodak 110mm Instamatic camera and a limited number of rolls of film, but some of my first pictures from the tour were of me and my friends sitting at a table, eating pasta and drinking Coke. That was the best pasta I’d ever eaten! Later that day, we returned to the airport, flew to Greece for a week, and then to Israel for a week, before returning to Italy for our final week. That countryside ristorante lunch experience set the “tone” for my upcoming travel adventures. If only I had liked wine back then!

In the years since, I’ve visited Rome and Italy a hundred times, and it never gets old or redundant. What keeps me coming back? It’s the combination of the people, culture, places, food, wine, history, art, and local friends. Italy, like its history melds varied cultures into one, so is my love for the country and its people.

After college, with my music education degree in hand, I landed a job teaching band and choir at a middle school in my community. Little did I know I would spend thirty years at the school teaching middle, junior, and high school students. After a few years, I was ready to take my band “show on the road,” so like my college choir director, I gathered a few students and took them to Europe. And guess what? Italy was the first country I wanted to share with them.

On that first trip, I chose a noted student tour company to make all the arrangements, and we basically came along for the ride, without any input on the experiences. My group consisted of maybe eight students and several adult chaperones, and me and Charlotte, my wife. We were loaded on a 50-seater bus along with a few other student groups and teachers. I think we began in Zurich, but most of the tour visited Italy from Venice, to Florence, to Rome.

Being a newbie European tour sponsor teacher, I was happy to let our tour escort and a few other student tour “veteran” teachers lead the way and set the daily plans. It wasn’t until we got to Venice, Florence, and Rome, destinations I’d visited a decade before, that I felt a little more comfortable. I enjoyed sharing Italy and my experiences with my students and Charlotte. They were all first-time international travelers, and I had at least one tour experience under my belt. So, I felt confident showing them the Piazza San Marco, the canals of Venice, Florence’s Duomo, the Colosseum, and Saint Peter’s Square in Rome.

Now, forty-eight years and a hundred journeys later, I don’t even need to think or worry about my travels in Italy. The history is unchanged, the culture changes with the passing decades, the food and wine are as good as ever, and the friendships I’ve made continue to grow. All this blends together and helps me offer my travel buddies an authentic and enjoyable peek behind Italy’s “tourist” curtain. Yes, one must see Venice, Florence, and Rome, but for my groups, the small hill towns, the off-the-beaten-path destinations, intimate restaurants, and visits with my Italian friends make a McGuffin tour group a cut above all the rest!

Want to read more about why I quit letting another tour company arrange my travels? Read about it here. “Why I Always Came Home Hungry.”

1977 Lunch in Rome on flight layover to Athens

1977 Lunch in Rome on flight layover to Athens

Volterra -Happy Steak Diners 2025

Rome - Piazza Navona 2025

Volterra - La Vena di Vino Wine Tasting 2025

Monterosso - Spaghetti Ristorante Ciak 2025

ETA and ETIAS, Europe’s New Visa-Waiver Programs

ETA and ETIAS, Europe’s New Visa-Waiver Programs

Updated: March 29, 2025

by David McGuffin

There is a lot of talk and concern about new European and United Kingdom entry requirements for travelers. However, there is no need to worry and stress. The online application only takes a few minutes and requires a small fee.  

Residents from many countries outside Europe, including The United States and Canada, will soon be required to preregister for entry authorization before arriving in Europe. Yes, this sounds like a headache and another roadblock to your travel dreams, but it will be quick and easy for most. You will submit an online application before your trip, pay a small fee, and move on with your trip preparation.

The United Kingdom (England, Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland) and the rest of Europe plan to launch similar systems on different timelines and online platforms. The UK’s Electronic Travel Authorization (ETA) requires visitors from the USA and Canada to preregister for UK entry for travel beginning on or after January 8, 2025. The rest of Europe is preparing to implement a similar program later in 2026. It will be known as the European Travel Information and Authorization System (ETIAS).

What are these new requirements for visitors?

The United Kingdom’s ETA and Europe’s ETIAS are measures to improve border security and track foreign visitors with hopes to speed up passport checks at entry points. Many countries have similar programs for visitors, most notably Australia, New Zealand, and the United States.  

How does the UK ETA work?

How does the UK ETA Visa Waiver work?

Until April 8, 2025, every traveler must submit an online application and pay a £10 fee (~$12 USD).

From April 9, 2025 the online application fee increases to £16 (~$21 USD).

An application must be submitted for every traveler, regardless of age. Applications are reviewed quickly, and approval often is returned within minutes. However, the official timeline mentions three working days.  

Once approved, you’ll receive an email notification, and the approval will electronically link to your passport. We suggest you apply for your ETA when you are certain you’ll travel to the United Kingdom.

Once approved, your ETA will be valid for two years, and you may travel to the UK as often as you wish within those two years. You must reapply and pay the fee if you get a new passport.

It is important to note that a UK ETA is required:

  1. Even if you are transiting or changing flights through a UK airport en route to another destination.
  2. Traveling by land from the Republic of Ireland to Northern Ireland.

Visit the UK government’s ETA page for more information and updates. The handy UK ETA APP is the easiest way to apply. Visit UK ETA app.

How will the ETA affect my trip to the UK?

How will the ETA affect my trip to the UK and Europe?

Beyond spending a few minutes applying online and paying a small fee, most travelers will not be affected at all. Once you decide to visit the UK, applying for an ETA  should be your second step after getting your passport.

It is expected that airlines will take an active role in ensuring their passengers have a valid ETA.  They will likely require authorization at flight check-in, just as they currently do with verifying passports.

As the new ETA program is rolled out, we expect to see automated entry/exit systems at borders in place of a guard stamping passports. You’ll likely find more kiosks for scanning your passport and collecting biometric data. Over time, this will become common and hopefully expedite international visitor’s frustration at country borders.

How will the EU ETIAS work when implemented?

How does the EU ETIAS work?

DELAYED until sometime in 2026.

The European Union has delayed ETIAS several times but plans to launch the program in 2026.  When activated, travelers should have ample time to apply ahead of the requirement for entry.  A few month’s “grace” period appears to be planned following the launch. You do not need an ETIAS when traveling through an EU airport for a layover as long as you do not leave the secure area.

The ETIAS authorization is valid for three years with the same passport. If you change passports, you must reapply and pay the fee. Travelers must continue to follow the Schengen short-stay rule and not exceed the limit of 90 days out of any 180-day period.

Once the requirements begin, you’ll need to file an online application before your trip to Europe and pay a fee of €7. An application is required for every traveler, regardless of age. However, the ETIAS fee is waived for those under 18 or over 70.  

What countries will require ETIAS registration?

ETIAS registration will be required in most European countries (see the list here), including Iceland and Cyprus. The ETIAS is unnecessary in some Balkan countries (Bosnia-Herzegovina, Albania, Macedonia, and Serbia). However, it is doubtful you’ll travel there without transiting or visiting another EU country requiring the ETIAS.

For more information and to learn when the ETIAS requirements will kick in, visit the official ETIAS page.  Another good resource is ETIAS.com.

Passports… You can’t travel without one!

Passports… You can’t travel without one!

USPassportYou’ll not get beyond the check-in counter at the airport without a valid passport… if your destination is outside the United States of America. Americans are even required to show their passport when traveling to Canada, Mexico, or the Caribbean. Applying for a US Passport is the most important item to consider once a decision to travel has been made. The US also issues a “passport card,” which is about the size of a credit card. This card can only be used to re-enter the United States at land border crossing and sea ports of entry from Canada, Mexico, the Caribbean, and Bermuda. It cannot be used for international air travel, so we’ll not discuss this option any further here.

If you have a passport, it must be valid for six (6) months after your travel is complete, that is, the day of your return to the USA. Rules differ by country, but for European countries, this is the case. Additionally, your air carrier will not allow boarding for an international flight unless your passport is valid for six (6) months beyond your travel dates.

I have witnessed several passport-related events that have caused stress and even canceled trips. I recall a young lady signing up and paying to travel to Europe with her French teacher and friends. She (and her mother) waited a long time to apply for her passport and then worried daily when checking the mail, hoping it would arrive shortly. Unfortunately, her passport did not arrive before her travel date, and she had to stay behind and watch her friends go to Europe without her. On another occasion, a friend realized his passport would expire during his scheduled trip to Europe. To make matters even worse, he realized this only a couple of days before his trip was to begin. Thankfully, he called the National Passport Information Center, made an appointment, and drove 500 miles to renew his passport in person.

Applying for a new US Passport
Applying for and obtaining a US Passport, or even renewing an old one, can take some time. The average standard delivery time is 4 to 6 weeks. For an adult (18 years or older), the application and service fee is $165 for a passport with a validity period of 10 years. Children under 16 are only eligible for a passport with a validity period of 5 years, and the application fee is only $130.  Forms and Information are available at: https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/passports.html

When applying for a new passport, it must be done in person at an Acceptable Facility or US Passport Agency. Applicants must complete Form DS-11 and bring it with an approved original document showing evidence of US citizenship, a photo identification document, and two recent passport-sized photos. Full details and online printable forms can be found at: https://travel.state.gov/content/passports/en/passports.html.

There are many agencies where you can apply for a passport. Some include:
Federal, state, and probate courts,
Clerk of the Court Offices,
Post offices, and
Some public libraries.
For a complete list, search here.

When applying for or renewing a passport, why not asked for extra pages? You can request 52 pages instead of the usual 28, and it won’t cost a dime. This can only happen when requesting a new passport. See the details here.

Renewing a US Passport
If you have a current passport no older than 15 years, you can renew it by mail without having to visit an agency in person. You will need to complete Form DS-82, pay the application fee ($130), include two recent passport photos, and send it by mail to the passport agency. There are restrictions to this process, so it is a good idea to read all the applicable information at: https://travel.state.gov/content/passports/en/passports/renew.html

Name Changes and Errors
If you find spelling or date errors on your passport or have had a legal name change, you’ll need to get a new passport. This is an easy process and can be completed by mail. https://travel.state.gov/content/passports/en/passports/services/correction.html

Faster Service on the Application
For an extra $60, passport renewal or a new application can be expedited. See the websites mentioned above for rates and details.

You have your passport, so now what?
Once you have received your passport, there are a few things you should consider.

  • Make copies of the first couple of pages of your passport. Give one copy to someone at home and bring another copy with you on tour stuffed in an inner pocket of your suitcase.
  • It is also a good idea to keep two extra original passport-sized photos on hand with you when traveling.
  • When traveling, keep your passport with you at all times. The safest and best way to do this is to keep it in your moneybelt. I put mine in a small plastic sandwich bag to keep it dry. Keeping your passport safe is very important. If it is lost while out of the country, you’ll be stuck for several days trying to get a replacement. Replacing lost passports requires a trip to the U.S. Embassy, which will take precious time away from your tour experience.
  • Many countries, especially outside of Western Europe, require a VISA. A VISA is an official document attached to one of your passport pages. It takes some time to apply for and receive a VISA, and it requires that you send in your passport to have the VISA officially attached to your passport. This means that your passport will not be in your possession for some time. Be sure to do your homework, check the US Department of State to find out if you need a VISA, and leave yourself plenty of time to complete the VISA process before your departure date.
  • Be frugal with your blank passport pages. Often an immigration office will open a passport to the first blank page he encounters and stamp it. This is ok if you seldom travel and have plenty of blank pages. But for frequent travelers, this wastes a lot of useful passport “real estate.” Consider placing sticky notes on blank pages to help direct the agent away from the useful blank pages.
  • If you are a frequent traveler, consider applying for Global Entry. This is a program for US citizens to expedite their re-entry back home at a US airport. There are fees and an extensive application process, but if you travel a lot, it is worth the effort.
  • Enroll in the S.T.E.P. program, an acronym for Smart Traveler Enrollment Program. This is a free service for US citizens traveling abroad to enroll their trip with the nearest US Embassy or Consulate. Their motto is “stay informed, stay connected, stay safe!” Enrollment is a simple process. Each time you leave the USA on a trip, visit the S.T.E.P. website and register your trip, destination, and duration. Should a problem arise, you’ll be contacted by the Embassy in your destination country. Additionally, the Embassy will contact you or family members in an emergency, whether natural disaster, civil unrest, or family emergency.

Traveling Americans and Passports
There are about 340 million people in the USA, and according to the US Department of State, there are 149,359,051 American citizens who possess valid passports. That’s only about 48% which means there are a whopping 52% of us that have never left the USA! Just imagine the cultural shift if those numbers bumped up to 75% or more. We might have a better understanding of other people groups and a more tolerant outlook on the varied cultures in the world today.

US passport Map 2022

http://www.theexpeditioner.com/

If your Spouse or Travel Partner has a Passport… you should too!

Recently, we were touring with a group around London, and one of our passengers became so sick he had to be admitted to the hospital. This gentleman had a US Passport (obviously) and travel insurance.  The hospital wanted to keep him for several days. We contacted his wife at home in the USA and suggested she take advantage of the travel insurance feature and fly to London to be with her husband. To our shock, she informed us she could not fly over because she did not have a passport. Luckily, the gentleman was in good care at the hospital and flew home in a few days.

Summary
A passport is essential to travel outside the USA, and it takes a bit of work to jump through all the hoops to get one. Apply for or renew a passport as soon as you think you might travel internationally. Passports must remain valid for at least six months beyond your travel period. For a fee, expedited service can get your passport issued in as little as 2-3 days. It is a good idea for all US citizens to hold a valid passport just in case an emergency arises. Unfortunately, only about 37% of us do. Once you have a passport, keep it in a safe place, make several copies, never carry it in your back pocket, and consider getting extra pages with your application.

VIRTUAL TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE SHOW

VIRTUAL TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE SHOW

VTAS-Booth-Screen-Shot

On October 21st, 2020, we will participate in the first-ever Virtual Travel & Adventure Show! This virtual event focuses specifically on European travel, featuring the top destinations, tour operators, and travel suppliers from around the world that specialize in travel to Europe. All of this is “virtual,” and it has been an adventure building out my booth in the last few weeks. I hope you drop by for a chat or a zoom meet-up. 

I’ll be speaking on the DESTINATION STAGE about my favorite destinations, travel tips, and tours for 2021 and 2022. This is pre-recorded and available to view during show hours (5:00 pm-10:00 pm).

I am also featured on the new OTT channel, TRAVELSHOWS.TV! Additionally, that other travel guy, Rick Steves, will be speaking as well.

Of course, it would be great if you’d sign up for one or two of my 2021 and 2022 tours to Europe. It only cost $25 to hold your seat, and it is totally refundable should you decide not to travel. 

As a bonus, I am offering a $100 discount on any tour booked during the Virtual Travel and Adventure Show and a $200 discount on any of my new Eastern Europe and Balkans tours. This is in addition to any other “alumni” discounts to which you are entitled. And by the way, this is the only time my complete tour line-up will be discounted in the foreseeable future. So signup for a tour. You have nothing to lose!

Finally, at 7:00 pm, I’ll be at my booth for a live zoom meeting discussing my new Eastern Europe and Balkans tours as well as chatting you up and answering questions. Get your favorite apertivo, and join me!

Since I consider you one of our VIP travel partners, I’d like to pass along this exclusive code that allows you free tickets to visit our virtual booth and experience the entire show. Follow this link and enter promo code: VTAS100DMEE on the ticket selection screen to unlock the free ticket option. 

I’m looking forward to seeing you next Wednesday, October 21st, at the Virtual Travel & Adventure Show focusing on Europe!

October 2020 Travel News

October 2020 Travel News

Are you itching to travel in 2021? I am too! We’ve rolled out all twenty of our tours visiting 13 countries in Europe, hoping this pandemic will be in the rearview mirror by Spring 2021. I’ve participated in more than my fair share of tourism-focused zoom calls and webinars in the past months. Early on, the news was dismal. No tourists anywhere! But, after almost eight months of a travel lockdown, surveys indicate Americans are ready to get out there and get back to traveling. But, they want to do it safely and sensibly!

Like many, I want to get out there and go, but I want to be safe at it. That probably means holding off until a vaccine is developed and widely available. However, we’ve prepared all or departures, booked hotels, and have transportation standing by, in hopes that we all can get back to traveling early next year. With that hope, why not take a look at the tours we are offering for 2021 and provisionally sign-up for one? It will cost you a mere $25 to sign-up, and that is fully refundable up until 30-days before your tour departure. I’ve put all my tour resources online, in one place. You find all of this and more at https://davidmcguffin.com/tours/.

  • Check out my tours and departure dates,  
  • browse digital scrapbooks from our alumni, 
  • find out about the McGuffin travel style, and why it’s different (and better) than most others, 
  • experience what it is like being on tour by following the day-to-day activities of a David McGuffin group in Ireland,
  • Browse or print my entire tour catalog.

Finally, I’ve got several projects cooking on the front burner and about ready to premiere. Stay tuned to my websitethis newsletter, and my social media pages for more information in the coming week. Until then, I wish you all the best. Stay safe, be sure to social distance, wash your hands often, and wear a mask.

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