by David McGuffin | Jan 25, 2019 | Destinations
Edinburgh
I’ve been visiting Scotland for almost twenty years. Much of that has been while leading my groups around on guided tours, but some of the best times have been those when I was wandering alone or exploring with my wife. I’ve always had a soft spot in my heart for the underdog, and I guess that’s why I enjoy Scotland and the Scots’ varied history with the English, who, for centuries, have pushed them to the extremities and overpowered them with might.
Our first experience with Scotland occurred on a driving trip around the UK. My wife, Charlotte, and I had stayed the night before in Durham, visited Hadrian’s Wall, and just crossed the border to arrive in Jedburgh. Stopping for petrol, I went in the store to pay and recall coming back to the car and telling Charlotte, “I know that guy was speaking English, but I did not understand a single word!” Don’t worry, once my ear tuned into their brogue, it really was quite pleasant to hear.
Edinburgh is a grand capital city that for centuries was second only to London and Dublin in the Empire. Its old, crumbly medieval town is my favorite part of the city. The castle proudly sits at the top of a volcanic mountain where it has protected the city sprawling below for centuries. One long, cobbled street stretches downhill for about a mile (now known as the Royal Mile), ending at the stately Palace of Holyroodhouse. This mostly pedestrian street is flanked by a series of narrow alleys (known as wynds) that lead steeply downhill to hidden courtyards and doorways. In fact, the old town of Edinburgh contains an amazing number of hidden skyscraper buildings.
Edinburgh’s nickname is Auld Reekie, a reference to the horrendous smell emanating from its lack of public sanitation in the 1700s, when rich and poor lived right alongside each other in the overcrowded wynds and closes. By then, 30,000 people were living in Edinburgh. As there was no living space, the only solution was to build up and up. Consequently, Edinburgh became Europe’s first city with skyscraper tenement buildings. The best place to see these high-rise tenement buildings is from the North Bridge. Walk out onto the bridge, stand in the middle, and look back to the south at the multistoried facades on the medieval city.
Edinburgh is the second largest city in Scotland. With a population of almost 500,000, it is certainly set up to accommodate its citizens and visitors with public transportation, restaurants, hotels, and entertainment.
It is the historic and cultural capital of Scotland. Just a glance at the castle on the hill will tell you that this has always been an important city. Centuries after the castle was built, the English moved in and constructed a well-thought-out and “grid-planned” grand Georgian-era modern city.
The city is easy to organize and navigate on foot. The old medieval town, with its crooked cobbled streets, narrow alleys, steep stairs, and underground caves is flanked on either end by “royal” castles. The Royal Mile connects the “Castle” on the cliff with the “Palace” in the valley.
The Old Town literally falls off the cliffs into what was once a swampy marsh. In the Age of Enlightenment, the English filled in the marsh transforming it into a beautiful city park. Today, Princes Street Gardens is a mecca for sun worshipers and dog walkers, and it’s a perfect way to dawdle away a few hours with people-watching.
Alongside the park are the busy Waverly Train Station and an underground shopping center. Spanning the gorge are two bridges (North Bridge and South Bridge) and a roadway, known as The Mound, which carry pedestrians and vehicles from the old town to the new town.
The New Town was built in the era of British history spanning the reigns of the Hanoverian Kings George I, II, III, and IV. This is roughly the period from 1714 to 1830, or some say 1837. Architecturally speaking, the style is similar to that of the neo-classical public monuments in Washington DC. Edinburgh’s Georgian city gleams with broad straight streets, elegant squares (similar to Savannah, Georgia), circular or oval promenades (called circuses), beautiful buildings with uniform and symmetrical columns, and many other Neo-Classical construction designs dating from the era.
You’ll also see Victorian-era construction around Edinburgh. This architectural style dates from the era of Queen Victoria (1837 –1901) and is recognized by the “pointy” rebellion from the constraints of the previous neo-classical orderliness. This neo-gothic style features ornate spires, reddish-colored sandstone, and rounded turrets with pointed roofs, all blended with styles picked up from Middle Eastern and Asian influences.
EDINBURGH CASTLE
Cost: £19.50 on-site purchase or £17.50 for online purchase. Open daily: April – September 09:30-18:00. October – March 09:30-17:00. Last entry is 45 minutes before closing.
This is the birthplace of Edinburgh. This hunk of lava was a perfect place from which to defend a growing Edinburgh. In the 11th century, the Scots began building a fortress here, which has stood as the symbol of the city for 1,300 years. Most of the buildings you see today date from recent history, where the castle has served as a military garrison. Be sure to get in on the 20-minute guided tour that starts hourly at the entry. One of the highlights is the Scottish Crown Jewels, tucked away in the massive vault.
The Crown Jewels have been a longtime symbol of pride. They were made in Edinburgh in 1540 and contain Scottish diamonds, gems, and gold (often said to be the gold of King Robert the Bruce). The Crown Jewels were last used to crown Charles II in 1651. When the Act of Union was handed down to the Scots in 1707, a portion of the “deal” was that the Scots could keep their Crown Jewels. The jewels remained hidden in Edinburgh for more than 100 years and were rediscovered in 1818 by Sir Walter Scott. In 1999, the crown jewels were brought out of Edinburgh Castle for the first time in over 300 years for the opening of the Scottish Parliament.
The Stone of Scone (The Stone of Destiny) – This plain piece of rock (collected in the 9th century) sits next to the Crown Jewels and is the historic coronation stone of the ancient kings of Scotland. It was stolen by the English in 1296 and took up residence underneath the English coronation chair in London’s Westminster Abbey. In 1996 Queen Elizabeth II allowed the
“Stone of Scone” to return to Scotland, with the condition that it make a journey to Westminster Abbey for all future English coronations. So, with a lot of hoopla, the Stone of Scone was returned to Edinburgh on St. Andrew’s Day, November 30, 1996. As you can imagine, it is a great source of pride!
Royal Palace was the fortified refuge of the Scottish royalty in times of war and during attacks. In times of peace and calm, the royal family resided at the more comfortable Palace of Holyroodhouse at the foot of the hill.
The Great Hall was the palace’s great formal meeting room dating from the 16th and 17th centuries. It later became a hospital and barracks.
The Scottish National War Memorial commemorates the 149,000 Scottish soldiers lost in World War I, the further 58,000 lost in World War II, and the 800+ lost in British battles since WWII.
Saint Margret’s Chapel is the oldest building in Edinburgh and is dedicated to Queen Margaret who died here in 1093. She was later “sainted” in 1250. This chapel was built in 1130 and is in the Norman Romanesque style. Below the chapel is a wonderful panoramic view of Edinburgh. Crowds gather here for the 13:00 single canon and gun blasts that once was used to give ships in the bay a common point by which to set their navigation and timepieces.
The War Museum of Scotland holds lots of fascinating history. It is a bit different than the typical “guns and armor” museums throughout Europe. Take a quick look, or linger if you like. The museum closes one hour before the castle.
THE ROYAL MILE
The Royal Mile is really a series of four different streets linking the Edinburgh Castle at the top and the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the bottom. Actually, it is about a mile and an eighth, so when walking it, walk from top to bottom and take the bus back home. It is packed with shops, pubs, restaurants, cafes, lanes, and small squares. Along the Royal Mile, you’ll encounter common streets, lanes, and alleys, some of which are designated by unfamiliar terms. Perhaps you’ll find a close which is nothing less than a small alley (usually running down the hill) between buildings. These closes date from the Middle Ages. Originally they had a door at the entrance that was “closed” at night. The close usually led to a courtyard. You might see several pends or arched gateways. A wynd is a narrow winding lane and a gate—well, that means a street—and I’m not sure of its origin.
The Castle Esplanade is at the top of the Royal Mile. It was created as a parade ground in the 1800s, but today it is known for being the site of the Royal Military Tattoo—a spectacular “show” featuring military bands, pipes, drums, and royal regiments. The Tattoo is presented nightly in the month of August. You may see the modern grandstands flanking the parade grounds.
Saint Giles’ Cathedral is Scotland’s most important church. It features an ornate spire and “Scottish crown-shaped” steeple dating from 1495. Once inside, marvel at the stained glass windows (1995 by Leifur Breidfjord) dedicated to Robert Burns, Scotland’s famous poet. There is also a statue of John Knox, the great 16th-century Calvinist preacher who promoted reform and founded the Presbyterian movement in 1559. Knox’s insistence that every Scotsman should be able to read the word of God put Scotland more than 300 years ahead of the educational systems of Europe. The four massive central pillars date from 1120 and are the oldest structures in the church. Mason and DaVinci Code buffs will enjoy the Chapel of the Knights of the Thistle, which is loaded with lots of veiled symbolism and ornately carved figures. Open M-F 09:00-19:00. Sat. 09:00-17:00. Sun. 13:00-17:00.
John Knox’s Gravesite is just behind St. Giles’. In keeping with his Calvinist beliefs, his grave is unmarked, under the parking lot, at spot #23. Don’t confuse him with the nearby statue of King Charles II on his horse.
The Old Parliament House is on the same parking lot. It is now the civil court building, so you’ll have to go through security to see the 1639 Grand Hall and stained glass. It was in use until 1707 when the English dissolved the parliament with the Act of Union.
The Mercat Cross is located in the square near St. Giles’. This column, topped by a white unicorn, has been the site of royal proclamations since the 14th century.
The World’s End marks a spot halfway down the Royal Mile where a wall designated the end of Edinburgh and the beginning of Canongate. Canongate was a community related to Holyrood Palace down at the foot of the hill. The wall was located where Mary Street and Jeffery Street cross the Royal Mile. Notice the name changes from High Street to Canongate. You can find
some brass brick marking this former wall (the original wall was demolished in 1764). Look down Mary Street, about 200 yards, and you can see a portion of the former wall.
If you are into whiskey, the Cadenhead Whisky Shop (not a tourist site) was founded in 1842 and prides itself on bottling good whiskey from casks, straight from the distilleries. No additives and no mass-produced marketing. There is loads of information at the shop. You can ask for a sample, but do plan to buy a bottle, eventually. It is located just beyond the World’s End “wall” on Canongate.
The Scottish Parliament Building is located on the right at the bottom of the Royal Mile. Scotland was granted a parliament in 1998. In 2004, this building was dedicated—the first Scottish Parliament since 1707! Scotland now enjoys Home Rule and is looking for independence. It is worth a look. You can go in on weekdays. Pass through security and find the visitor’s desk. You can visit the public parts of the building including the “debating chambers.”
The Palace of Holyroodhouse is at the bottom of the Royal Mile. It was originally a 12th-century Augustine Abbey named for a portion of the “cross” brought here by Queen Margaret, later Saint Margaret. This has marked the end of the Royal Mile since the 14th century. Scotland’s royals preferred living down the hill, in the valley, instead of up at the blustery cold castle. Thus a “palace” has evolved over time in this location. You can visit here if the Queen (of England) is not in. It costs about £15. Be sure to get the included audio guide.
UP TOP NEAR THE CASTLE AND OFF THE ROYAL MILE
The National Museum of Scotland is free and well worth two hours of your time, as it chronicles the history of Scotland in photos, exhibits, and realistic displays. Start in the basement and work your way through history! This will put Scotland (and England) into perspective. There is an excellent restaurant on the top floor offering good food AND great views of the city. Free and Open daily 10:00-17:00.
Greyfriars Bobby is across the street from the National Museum—a story about a man and his dog that will bring a tear to everyone’s eye.
The Grassmarket is down in the valley from the Royal Mile. As its name implies, Grassmarket was originally the pastures and stables of Edinburgh. Later it was the site for hangings. Locals actually rented out their windows so all could get a good view of the “drop.” Today, it is a chic and “in” place to visit. It’s a lively town square popular at lunch and in the evenings with pubs,
restaurants, and clubs.
If you found this article informative, please share it with your friends, family, co-workers and associates. If you have something to add, just leave a comment in the box below.
Do you want to learn more about traveling to Europe? There is a wealth of information and special discount pricing on my tours at https://davidmcguffin.com/.
David McGuffin is Founder and CEO of David McGuffin’s Exploring Europe, Inc., based in Middleburg, Florida. You can connect with him on Twitter, Facebook, Google+, LinkedIn and YouTube. David spends his time in Europe organizing and leading small-group and independent tours to European destinations. In business since 2001, David has provided exceptional travel opportunities to several thousand satisfied customers. You can find out more about David and his European tours on his website, https://davidmcguffin.com.
by David McGuffin | Aug 11, 2018 | news
Christmas Markets Tour
Flights are selling at record low prices from the USA to Munich for the first week of December. These roundtrip fares to Munich are selling, right now, from $645. Check out the price on: Rome2Rio, Orbitz or at your favorite air carrier’s website. Find a fare and snag it, then join me and Charlotte for our Christmas Markets tour in December.
You’ll need to depart the USA on Saturday, 12/1/18 to arrive at the Munich Airport (MUC) the next morning (12/2/18). We will pick you up at the airport and whisk you away to Salzburg to begin the tour! Schedule your return flight for Sunday, 12/9/18.
To sweeten the pot, I will add an early Christmas bonus to all who sign up right away. Join my tour and pay your deposit by August 19, 2018, and receive a $100 discount on the tour. Currently, my Christmas Markets Tour is selling for $3189 per person. If you are a single traveler, I’ll reduce the single room supplement to $359, a $200 savings off of the advertised price.
Christmas Markets pop up all over Central Europe during the first weeks of December. These outdoor markets feature unique decorations, beautifully handcrafted arts, and endless opportunities to sample some great food and countless varieties of glüwein, punch, and spiced drinks, served piping hot in souvenir mugs.
But there is more to this tour than snow-sprinkled markets! You’ll enjoy visiting many destinations that, during the busy tourist season, are packed shoulder-to-shoulder with sweaty tourists. Traveling off-season means easy access to the castles and sights in Salzburg, Schwangau, Rothenburg, Munich, Nürnberg, and more. There has never been a better time to visit Europe’s winter wonderland destinations.
All our tours are designed for strictly small groups ranging from 6 to 18 travelers. This means we can travel off the beaten path and under the big bus tour radar and experience Europe on a unique and personal level. Eating well is also a priority, and you’ll get your fair share of fine food sourced locally by excellent chefs. I’ve spent years poking around Europe’s nooks and crannies looking for unique restaurants, clean hotels with character and cozy B&Bs. Our tours include all tips and gratuities to drivers, local guides, and your tour leader. Finally, we’ll never nickel and dime you with extras and add-ons. The advertised price is the price you pay.
So, what are you waiting for? Why not take a vacation to Europe in December? Head over to my website to sign up today.
Your Adventure Starts Here!
by David McGuffin | Jun 11, 2018 | Destinations
There are at least 40,000 restaurants in Paris!
So says the BBC in a 2016 report. For me, that’s about 39,950 chances to go wrong when eating out in Paris. I’ve been visiting Paris for decades and have made my fair share of mistakes. In fact, I made a poor choice just a few days ago, and when I was relying on someone else to plan my “Eating Out in Paris” experiences, it was simply just terrible (see my post titled: I Always Came Home Hungry). However, my mistakes are your gain! I’ll not steer you wrong here!
When looking for a place to eat, try to go where the locals hang out. If you see a big menu posted in several languages outside a restaurant, chances are it is a place designed for tourist. A tourist restaurant does not care too much about their food or service because they know the diner will most likely be there only one night in their life. They are not looking for repeat customers!
We all plan to encounter big cultural differences when we travel, but the little things are often a surprise. Here are a few little quirks to be aware of when dining in Paris.
Drinks
When ordering drinks keep in mind there are no free refills. When you order soda, it will come in a can or a bottle. Drinks do not come with ice. If you ask for ice, you’ll likely only get a few cubes. Water is free in France if you ask for un carafe d’eau (uhn-kah-rahf doh). You can also order (and pay for) still or sparkling water. Ask for de l’eau plate (duh loh plaht – still) or de l’eau gazeuse (duh loh gah zuhzz – sparkling).
Time Constraints
Be aware of local dining customs. In Europe, eating is a social event, and a 30-minute lunch is unheard of. Don’t expect your waiter to come by every five minutes to see if you are done. This would be considered extremely rude. If you want something, chances are you’ll have to flag him down. He isn’t being lazy or bad at his job; he’s giving you privacy to enjoy your meal in peace. This is great if you want to spend three hours people-watching at a sidewalk cafe but can be frustrating when you are pressed for time.
If you don’t have much time to eat, consider ordering from the “take away” counter (order your food à emporter – ah om-por-tay). In fact, many restaurants and cafes near busy tourist sites offer the same menu to go. Just pick up your lunch and take it to a nearby park. This is a great option when the weather is nice. Don’t forget to grab a few napkins!
La Formule
In Paris, you’ll find many restaurants that offer meals at a set price for a specific number of courses. This is known as a “menu formule”. The choices will be limited, but it often consists of selections from the restaurant’s normal menu. A three-course meal would include an appetizer (une entrée), the main course (un plat), and a dessert (un dessert). Four courses often include soup (une soupe) at the beginning or cheese (du fromage) at the end of your meal. If the regular menu looks daunting, the formule is an easy-to-order alternative.
Tipping
Reward your waiter for good service. Unlike in the United States, French waiters must be paid at least the minimum wage, so a service charge is usually already included in the bill. A tip is appreciated but not always expected and tipping customs vary by situation. If you stop for drinks, it is customary to leave the change, especially if the service was good. For example, if your bill is 3.50, you can leave .50 on the change tray. However, this is not required. If you are paying with a credit card, there probably won’t be a line on the receipt to leave a tip, so just leave some change on the table. For dinner, a tip of 5-10% is sufficient for all but the fanciest restaurants.
Dessert – I am not a fan of dessert, so I’ll leave that up to you. But if I come across a tasty sweet and I like it, I’ll give it my recommendation and I bet you’ll like it too.
All of my recommendations are linked to TRIP ADVISOR where you can find the address, telephone number and ratings/comments by TripAdvisor contributors. Read my recommendation first, then click through to Trip Advisor for details.
MONTMARTRE
There are many poor places to eat on this hilltop, especially in and around Place du Tertre. Most offer tourist menus, formula menu and drinks a mussels menus. Big groups, especially student groups, come here to eat cheap and poorly-prepared menus. Here is where I Eat Out in Montmartre.
At first glance, this place has the look of any other restaurant on Place du Tertre, but delve farther inside (or outside) for ambiance and good food. They offer street-side tables, suitable for people-watching and a drink or snack. Inside, there are many quiet tables; sit near the piano and bar, not in the back. Also, there is a nice, quiet garden area out back that is far removed from the hub-bub of the square out front. Finally, they offer seating out front, along with all the other restaurants, which still provides the flavor/ambiance of Place du Tertre without feeling as if you are falling off the sidewalk into the street.
Ok, what to eat? I go for traditional French fare. Start with six or twelve escargots served out of the shell with a wonderful blend of butter and herbs. Sop up the remains with the tasty baguette that comes in a basket just for this purpose. Moving on to the main course (les plats) why not go for the confit de canard? This is a very tasty leg and thigh of a duck fried in its own fat. Here at La Crémaillère, it is moist, fall-off-the-bone and crispy good!
Walk through Place du Tertre, on the east side, down the hill beyond the artists. Follow signs to the Salvador Dali Museum. It is just around the corner, to the right from Place du Tertre. This is out of the limelight and commotion of Place du Tertre, and you’ll immediately notice that this is a “locals” hangout. The menu is a bit more expensive than others in the area, but worth it. Try the filet de boeuf; cooked rare (saignant) is the way to go! Add a little butter sauce and roasted potatoes or frites (french fries) and you’ve got a tasty meal.
On a small little lane to the east of Place du Tertre, you could easily miss this restaurant. Not many tables inside or out, but if you get one, you are in for a treat. Some years ago I discovered Le Poulbot when it was the nearest place to pop into during a thunderstorm. Some friends joined me, and we had a wonderful dinner that lasted hours! In the years since I’ve missed chances to dine here because I did not book a table in advance, so be sure to call and ask for a table! The menu is French and I’ve had nothing that was not perfect, even the crème brûlée!
PONT NEUF-NOTRE DAME
I mentioned that I did not care for dessert. Give it a try here!
I put my group on the Seine river cruise here at Port Neuf. The one-hour cruise takes them upriver to the Cathedral Notre Dame and then down to the Tour Eiffel and back. After the cruise, if my group is not too large, we usually dine at Ma Salle à Manger. Another very small place with a few tables outside on Place Dauphine and a few more inside. The kitchen is through a “manhole” into the cellar. Given the size, I don’t know how they put out the food they do, but they do! This is another place you would do well to call and book in advance.
They offer a very nice formule menu that varies with the season. Count on the French classics done up exceptionally well! In the winter, try their bœuf à la bourguignonne and soupe à l’oignon. The fois gras is pretty good too.
The owners and staff are very friendly. The restaurant is located in a small triangular-shaped “square” covered in sand. Ask to use their boules set if you want to play a bit in the park.
This place is located on Place Dauphine as well. It is more swanky and upscale than Ma Salle à Manger, but has very good food. Plenty of tables inside and a few outside available on nice evenings. The fish, veal shank and confit de canard are good choices.
CAMBRONNE (Near the Eiffel Tower)
Years ago, I used to stay in this neighborhood with my groups and, consequently, found some very good places to Eat Out. Place Cambronne is conveniently located on the Métro 6 line and is just a 10-minute walk from the Eiffel Tower. La Place Café has been around for decades. I popped in yesterday for lunch and was not disappointed. My filet de boeuf, cooked rare (saignant), was served with roasted potatoes and a small salad. The steak was smothered in a fresh wine and mushroom gravy, ah so good! Others in my group had farfalle and penne pasta dishes, which, while not French, satisfied them just as well.
Just across the street from La Place Café, with a very similar menu and ambiance. In June 2018, the street and cafe are under renovation and totally shut down. I’ll let you know when I find it open again.
MONTPARNASSE & JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG AREA
Wow, this was a good find several years ago. Last night (June 2018), four of us stopped in without a reservation. The owner helped us out by asking a couple to move to a two-top and sat us down for dinner. It’s a small place with the boss and two servers on the floor, and I think there is one chef in the tiny kitchen down in the basement. The service, food and wine were wonderful. Steak seems to be a theme with me in Paris, so I went with the chateaubriand (special cut filet steak) and pommes frites. Snails for a starter, of course. Superb menu and everything prepared correctly. They also had an assorted menu. I took a photo and am including it here. Others in my group had homemade pasta, hanger steak, ice cream and the pomme au four, sablé Breton. If you are ever on this side of Paris, go here! Be sure to make a reservation!
Located just around the corner from the Montparnasse Cemetery, Restaurant/Bar Le Smoke is a good find. Sometimes they have live jazz or piped-in music. It seems like a local hangout and the menu is only in French. Don’t let that stop you. Go here, have a drink and get some good food. The waitstaff is friendly and will help you with translations.
Located near St. Sulpice, Chez Julien has been a stop for me for 10 years. Early on the restaurant was billed as “Lou Pescadou, Chez Julien.” I think the young chef Julien took it over a few years back. Regardless, it is worth a visit. Like all of my other recommendations, this place is small, and you should book in advance. I’ve taken several groups of 12 or so people here and we fill up at least half of the tables. The staff is friendly, and the chef is in the kitchen in the back cooking away. I had lamb chops on a recent visit along with escargot as a starter. You know by now, I like my meat rare, but they will prepare your meat to your liking. Give it a try!
Located just across the street from Luxembourg Gardens, near the Palace and main gate. The Trip Advisor reviews are mixed, but I find this to be a very worthy place to eat. Typical French menu with everything from beef, to duck, to fish and more. It is a cut above the other restaurants in the area.
Want a change from French food? Give Tavola di Gio some serious consideration. I’ve dined here a few times, but my meal here last night was fantastic. The burrata with cherry tomatoes, basil and oil was loaded with flavor (not the bland mozzarella we get at home). I then enjoyed the perfectly prepared spaghetti con polpette (meatballs). The pasta was cooked perfectly al dente, dressed with a light but flavorful tomato sauce, blending perfectly with the tender and tasty mini-meatballs. Other menu items include lasagna, other pasta dishes, fresh fish and a few classics such as saltimbocca di Roma.
That’s it for now. I hope you enjoy your dining experience in Paris!
