Charlotte and I are vacationing in the Cinque Terre. We love this place and seem to come back year after year. There are many places to stay while in the “five villages,” but we enjoy Riomaggiore the best. Several years ago I discovered The Cinqueterre Residence, a simple, family-owned and modern group of rooms and apartments on a hill above the town center. Our apartment has a simple dual rangetop, frig, microwave and comes stocked with pots, pans and dishes.
So, last night I cooked a meal, and got Charlotte to shoot some video… here is my PRIMI PIATTI course.
Charlotte and I are vacationing in the Cinque Terre. We love this place and seem to come back year after year. There are many places to stay while in the “five villages,” but we enjoy Riomaggiore the best. Several years ago I discovered The Cinqueterre Residence, a simple, family-owned and modern group of rooms and apartments on a hill above the town center. Our apartment has a simple dual rangetop, frig, microwave and comes stocked with pots, pans and dishes.
So, last night I cooked a meal, and got Charlotte to shoot some video… here is my ANTIPASTI course.
This week Charlotte and I are exploring new, for us, little niches of Tuscany. Last summer, I met a young couple who told me about an amazing agiturismo in the remote hills of Chianti. Throughout the course of two weeks I ran into Josh and Ramona several times and they continued to rave about where they were staying. So, I tucked that little morsel of information away in hopes that one day I’d get by the area and check it out.
A few weeks ago, when planning our vacation to Italy, I contacted Ramona and after several text messages got the name and location of the agriturismo. So, here we are!
An Agriturismo can broadly be defined as any agriculturally based operation that brings guest/visitors to a farm for a meal or an overnight stay. Many such agriturismi have popped up in Italy in recent years due to a tax break and stipend offered by the Italian government. Over the course of the next three days, we will visit two such farms that cater to guests.
Today we are relaxing at Agriturismo Savernano! This place is a wonderful retreat that makes me want to slow down, relax and do nothing. In fact, that’s what we’ve done all day… simply nothing! The main building is situated on top of a hill commanding a 360-degree vista of the surrounding mountains, fields and little towns. Even now, while writing this, I can hear the 6:00 p.m. bells tolling from the little village of Viaggio in the valley below. The main building contains eight guest’s bedrooms, a dining room, kitchen and private dwelling area for the owners. The architecture is classic Tuscan… red tiled roof, stonewalls with yellow stucco for contrast, exposed timbered trusses, terra cotta tiled wrap-around porches and plenty of shady seating.
The farm is loaded with grape vines and olive trees from which is produced homemade olive oil and Chianti. To top it all off there is an inviting pool with plenty of lounge chairs and umbrellas for those wanting to future while away an afternoon.
The rooms are modern and up-to-date. All have heating and air conditioning, refrigerators, impressive private baths complete with bidet and hair dryer. The towels are first class, thick, big, fluffy and absorbent. The beds are typical Italian… low to the floor, no box springs and very firm.
Now for the best part! The family prepares a simple dinner each night for its guests. Each morning the evening’s dinner menu is posted on a chalkboard in the reception area. Guests must tell the staff if they plan to eat here tonight. I would suggest that you skip any other dinner plans and return straight away to Savernano for a truly simple and typical dinner. Right now it is 7:00 p.m.; I am sitting on the patio typing this blog entry and can, every now and then, get a whiff of roasting garlic, fresh herbs and boiling pasta! I can’t wait to eat!
Last night, we enjoyed two bottles of their own Chianti (€3 per bottle) and a full dinner! The primi piatti was homemade (I said that already, right) Lasagna al forno, made with the freshest pasta I’ve ever eaten. Charlotte said it was so fresh she could taste the eggs! The vegetable sauce was light with just a hint of tomato, basil and garlic. After we devoured our first plate in about three minutes the owner brought us two more! The second course was wild boar (cinghale) stewed in herbs and red wine. It was fork tender and falling off the bone! Accompanying this was the best eggplant parmignano I’ve ever tasted… fresh, lightly battered and sprinkled with just a small amount of cheese. This all was capped off with vin santo and cantucci (biscotti)!
Agriturismo Savernano is about 41 Km south of Florence, just off the A1 autostrada. Rooms go for about €100 a night for a double. The ambiance, atmosphere, pool, rooms and dinner all make this a great experience and a real value.
I got a Facebook message today from a friend who is taking his wife to New York in a couple of weeks. He asked me for some of my favorite dining choices and off-the-beaten path things to do. So, Charlotte and I have colaborated and come up with our “thrifty and tasteful” take on New York City.
Most of our choices are family-owned establishments offering personal and caring service and always with a European flair. Many have limited seating (20 tops max) so it would be wise to call ahead for a reservation. We highly recommend all our choices. They are listed in no particular order.
Trattoria Trecolori – 254 W. 42 St. (between Broadway and 8th Ave.) tel. 212-997-4540 – http://www.trattoriatrecolori.com/.
We were introduced to this place by David, one of Charlotte’s co-workers, and a long time resident of New York. One day David took us here for lunch. As we walked in David was greeted by the owner and waiters and treated as a “regular.” We’ve eaten here several times since and although they don’t know us, we get great service and some pretty amazing authentic Italian-American food. We dined at Trecolori just a couple of weeks ago with my sister and her husband and had a great dining experience (as opposed to a meal). I asked the waiter to prepare his choice for my dinner… he brought roasted veal that tasted amazing and melted in my mouth. Be sure to listen to the daily specials and order one if it suits your fancy. I’ve had several varieties of their fresh fish and it has always been great. The pasta and desserts are excellent as well. Entree items range from $12-23. Eclectic collection of wine from $24 a bottle.
Pergola Des Artistes – 252 W. 46 Street (between Broadway and 8th Ave.) – tel. 212-302-7500 – http://pergoladesartistes.com (closed Sunday and Monday).
I’ve walked by this little “hole-in-the-wall” many times and wondered what was behind the small little door. The entrance reminds me of a brothal (not that I’ve ever been in one, mind you) or mafia-run nightclub. But trust me, behind that door is a welcome smile and some down-home country French cuisine. We finally dined here for the first time in early July 2010. New York was under a horrible heat wave, with temps above 100 F, and the cool A/C and homey atmosphere were just what we needed. When we arrived we were greeted by the barman, who we later found out was out waiter and the manager too. The menu was limited with typical provential French, escargot, onion soup, duck, beef burgundy, coq du vin, mussels in white wine, etc. However they do have an extensive list of fresh daily specials as well. On this occasion we chose escargot in a delicious broth of butter and herbs, duck confit with the roasted breast and lamb chops stuffed with porcini mushrooms. Perfect meal, perfect service and authentic cuisine. Entree items range from $12- $20. Good wine from $22 a bottle.
La Petite Auburge 116 Lexington Ave, NY, NY 10016
Tel .212-689-5003 www.lapetiteaubergeny.com
Amazing and another well hidden gem.
L’Ecole the Restaurant of The French Culinary Institute – 462 Broadway (just north of Canal St.) – tel. 212-219-3300 http://www.frenchculinary.com/lecole. We discovered L’Ecole in February 2010 and it has instantly become one of our favorites. Considering price, value, authenticity and service it cannot be topped! They have a lunch menu, a dinner menu before 7:00 p.m. and a dinner menu after 7:00 p.m.. We’v dined here at lunch and at the pre-7 p.m. dinner. They do not take reservations between 7 and 8 p.m. Just like in Europe, a table here is your’s until you leave, or they close and run you out. The cooking staff and wait staff are all students at the adjacent French Culinary Institute. The service and food is exceptional, authentically French and affordable. For us, this is often our least expensive meal in New York. Entrees from $9-18. Good wine (they don’t serve any bad stuff) from $22 a bottle.
Cafe Un Deux Tois – 123 W. 44th Street (between 6th and Broadway)
Tel. 212-354-4148 – http://cafeundeuxtrois.biz/
Elegant upscale French dining with typical Parisian charm (said with tongue in cheek). David – I’ve spent a a few hours at the bar here with drinks and appitizers waiting on Charlotte while she shops. Good economical experience, all thing considered. Charlotte will have to tell you about the dining. Charlotte – I had lunch here at a retirement party. I don’t remember the exact menu but I do remember that I thoroughly enjoyed it!
Da Gennaro Ristorante – 129 Mulburry Street (Little Italy) –
tel. 212-431-3934 Authentic Italian-American cuisine located in the heart of Little Italy. Everything here is authentic and typical, except for the waiters- they are from Spain or Mexico but do a good job of fooling you that they are true Italians. If you are in the area, go here for the food and you won’t be disappointed. Although, I would not make a special trip from the theatre district or uptown. It is always packed and the food is good. Entrees from $15.
Carmine’s NYC Legendary Family Style Italian Restaurant – 2450 Broadway (Upper Westside) – tel. 212-362-2300 – http://www.carminesnyc.com/index.php
Carmine’s is consistant and always a winner when it comes to authentic Italian-America food. It is served family-style and in huge portions. If there are only two of you dining consider sharing the antipasti, pasta and entree. We normally come here with a group of people, order three or four courses, try to eat it all and don’t succeed. Consider getting a doggy bag and giving it to a needy person along the street between the restaurant and the subway. But seriously, the food, ambiance and dining experience is amazing. You won’t go home disappointed or hungry. Entrees from $12.
Morton’s Steakhouse – 551 Fifth Ave. – Tel. 212-972-3315 – http://www.mortons.com/newyork/
Yes, it is a chain but for us, there is no better steak in New York City (we are suckers for Chicago-style meat). Entrees from $22 up.
Last month I was on a train in Italy when I received an incoming call from an “unknow number.” Upon seeing that, I cringed and my stomach sank. You see, I’d had that same “call” on two other occasions while traveling in Europe. It was from my web hosting company back in the USA notifying my account (meaning my website and my blog) had been suspended.
I have used the same web hosting company for over ten years, however in recent years things have made a drastic turn for the worse. It is long story and I’ll not bother you with the details, let’s just say I learned my lesson the hard way.
The odd thing is that I always got the “unknown caller” when I was not in a position to do anything about it, usually I was in Europe. The person I talked never varied, it was always the same voice, although he never used the same name twice. The story varied at each call beginning with “my website had overrun its space on the server and I need to pay more money to get unlimited space.” The next time the same guy (using a different name) said several of my domain names had expired and as a last ditch effort I would have to pay lots of money to reinstate them. The next call I got was because my webspace was using too much bandwidth and I should pay more money to get unlimited bandwidth. The final call came, as I mention, while on the train last month. This time my “problem” was that someone “hacked” my webspace and it was “gone.” They had a backup, but I would have to purchase new webspace and pay for someone to restore my data at a huge cost.
That was the last straw! I just let everything sit in limbo for a couple of weeks until I could get back home. Luckily, I had a full backup of my website and a backup of my blog from late-March 2010. So, over the last few weeks I’ve restored my BLOG and totally reworked my website. Hours and hours of my time, but with a reliable and well researched web hosting company, I feel a lot better.
The moral here is NEVER trust anyone without checking them out. When I got to digging into that web host provider, I found scores of complaints and very similar stories to mine. Apparently, he/they have fooled a lot of people. If you are insterested check it out on the web:
The crooks are : Global Internet Services (GISOL) http://gisol.com
My research revealed fraud at many different levels:
