by David McGuffin | Jun 14, 2011 | Culture & Customs, David's Journal, Destinations, Eating & Drinking
Fado in Coimbra is different than that of Lisbon. In Coimbra, Fado centers around the university community and is sung by men dressed in traditional academic capes, robes, and leggings. Like in Lisbon, it is accompanied by classical guitar and a specially tuned Portuguese guitar, but sounds totally different.
My group and I arrive early at A Capella, a small 14th century chapel turned tapas bar and Fado venue. The owner and chief Fado singer were practicing a rock and roll set scheduled for performance at 12 midnight. Luckily, we were able to preorder a set dinner menu of lamb or fish.
The actual Fado began at 9:20 p.m. and continued in four-song sets until midnight. We all enjoyed the performances of the male soloist and guitar ensemble.
The food was good and by the end of the evening, the chapel was packed with 80-100 people drinking, eating and enjoying the Fado experience.
by David McGuffin | Jun 13, 2011 | Culture & Customs, Destinations
England has Oxford, France has Le Sorbonne, Florida has Gainesville and Portugal has Coimbra. Yes, Coimbra is Portugal’s university town with lots of interesting things to see and do.
We arrived in Coimbra around 2 p.m. on a Saturday. Having never been there, I was not impressed with the hotel’s location in a sort of dumpy part of the new town near the station and the river. In fact, the hotel staff had to convince me that Coimbra was worth an overnight stay. As it turned out, the Hotel Oslo has a wonderfully helpful staff, a good location to the sights and clean and modern rooms. I am glad I stayed in Coimbra.
I split up my afternoon at a medieval fair in the Cathedral Square and down by the river in a shady park. My friends Susan, Mrs. Mc and Lindsay are traveling with me on this whirlwind trip through central Spain and Portugal. Consequently, we kind of take it slow and easy because Mrs. Mc is a bit fragile and about 25 years older than me. However, she is a trooper and is willing to try and do almost anything. When it comes to climbing up and down steep cobbled lanes, stairs, and paths… it’s slow, but steady, going.
Today, the climb from the river to the top of town was crowded with about 3,000 people attending the medieval fair and once we arrived at the cathedral square we all knew it was not the place for us. There were all sorts of meat being cooked and sold right off the spit. Beer and wine were flowing freely and local were dressed in medieval period costumes acting out their various roles. If it were not so hot and crowded it could have been fun, but with steep streets and unsure footing, this was not a pleasant experience.
Down by the riverside was a different story. Pleasantly cool and shady, we all could have taken a nap on a park bench. Instead, we enjoyed a drink at the riverside cafe while watching local children learning to sail in their own little one-man sailboats.
Afterward, we took advantage of the traditional siesta by resting back at the hotel for a few hours.
by David McGuffin | Apr 7, 2011 | Culture & Customs, Eating & Drinking
For me, one of the delights of European travel is purchasing something “over there” that is not available at home. The Magnum Ice Cream Bar is one such item that has kept my European sweet tooth satisfied for many years. People who have traveled with me know of my passion for the Magnum Classic and how a tour is not complete until I’ve introduced the pleasure to all.
Unfortunately, my Magnum passion changed last week while I was visiting Madrid. Sitting at an outdoor table on the Plaza Major, I began getting a barrage of emails and texts from back home in Florida. At first, I thought an emergency must have happened with my family; however, my mind was soon put to at ease as I read the messages. It seems that the Magnum Bar had made its way across the Atlantic Ocean to Wal-Mart and Target freezer cases everywhere. My friends were notifying me with excited messages so that I could rush right out and get one. Little did they know I did not accept the news with their anticipated enthusiasm.
You see, I think there is something almost sacred about the exclusivity of certain products available in Europe, but not in the USA. On every trip to Europe, I once looked forward to my first Magnum Bar of the tour and my last Magnum Bar of the tour. I enjoyed reliving the first moment a rookie experiences a Magnum when biting through that rich dark chocolate into the creamy ice-cold center. I especially enjoyed the moment when my tour group members would come back to the bus and describe their afternoon Magnum Bar adventures. It’s a sad thing to think those experiences will no longer be a part of my tours!
However, while sitting there in Spain lamenting the non-exclusivity of the now “world-traveled” Magnum Bar, I began thinking of all the special products that no matter how hard someone tried, would never make it to the USA. That made me happy! So, from now on, I’ll use my Magnum Bar story to illustrate the need to “go local” and experience unique products only available in situ, at the location of origin.
What about you? What are your thoughts about the downfall of the Magnum Bar? Consider sharing a memory or experience only available “at the location” and which can never be mass produced and exported to the world.
by David McGuffin | Mar 13, 2011 | Culture & Customs, Destinations
Just by luck, I happen on a CARNEVAL celebration weekend in Zurich. Yesterday, the old city center was alive with people, mardi gras-like beads, tons of confetti and an odd assortment of costumes, bands, and well-lubricated people enjoying the event.
I did not arrive on site until about 7:00 p.m., but even at that hour, the town was alive with action. Actually, I had arrived to find someplace to eat dinner, but those plans were put on hold for a bit so I could experience the festivities.
Walking just one block in either direction from the wild festival atmosphere brings you to the peaceful river and a great illuminating view church spires.
by David McGuffin | Jan 30, 2011 | Culture & Customs, Destinations, Experiencing Europe
For some reason I am much more aware of fashion when in Siena than in other parts of the world. I don’t know if it’s the allure of
Il Campo, the
passeggiata on
via Banchi di Sopra or maybe just my heighten awareness of people. Regardless the cause, I know I do a lot more people watching when in Siena than in any other place.
Last week I made a whirlwind trip to Italy to lay the groundwork for a new itinerary linking Rome and Tuscany. In four days, I traced the route that my “real tour” would experience in eight days. It was a bit grueling, especially driving from Rome to Volterra on that first day, but with a few stops for an espresso at the Autogrill, I survived.
We arrived in Siena on night three of my “tour.” During the past three days, my tour guide friends, Andy and Mary Ada, had been meticulously combing every detail of this new itinerary. Ditching the rental car and checking into Hotel Chiusarelli was such a relief! No more driving… just walking the medieval streets of Siena.
We went directly to Il Campo, the weather was great so we grabbed a seat at one of the outdoor cafes and ordered lunch. One of the first things I noticed being here “off-season” was the lack of tourists. The huge square was scattered with just a few pods of people enjoying the sun and a picnic lunch. For early January, this warm weather is very uncommon and it seemed that many local folks were out to make the most of it.
Sitting there in the sun enjoying my pasta our conversation turned to the Palio, the famous horse race that occurs on this very square twice in the summer. As I described the event to my friends, I began pointing out the various brackets on the exterior walls around the square meant to attach rickety old wooden bleachers for the thousands who arrive in town for the horse race. In my description, I pointed out what I think is the perfect balcony perch for taking in this magnificent square during the Palio or anytime during the year. You can only access this balcony by way of the bar, discreetly tucked into the building below and if you are not looking for it, you’ll miss it.
After lunch, we went our own way and decided to meet up later for dinner. I poked around Siena’s various contrada neighborhoods hoping to run across some previously undiscovered (for me) little gem of a bar, restaurant or shop. I found many of them, but most importantly, I experienced Siena with only the locals in town. As I said, this was so unlike the heavy tourist traffic in the spring and summer months. Finally, I picked out a place in the market square to return to for dinner.
By now it was late afternoon, as I walked across Il Campo the long shadow from the bell tower stretched nearly all the way across the square. Leaving the sun, the temperature dropped ten degrees as I entered the main pedestrian streets known as via Banchi di Sopra. Suddenly I was among more people than I had seen all day! It was as if all of Siena had suddenly come out to take a stroll and visit with one another. I had walked right into the daily ritual known in Italy as the passeggiata, or the slow walk.
I dug out my camera and began snapping photos because I realized every woman was wearing some version of knee-high boots. There were all styles and colors ranging from swanky black leather to more casual thigh-high suede leather ones with fringe. I’ve included a few of the photos I snapped just so you can get an idea.
Big Boots & Little Kids
boot boots
Also, notice the men… many are wearing stylish shiny quilted jackets with faux-fur collars… something you’d never catch any guy in the USA wearing. Also, notice the white tennis shoes and jeans sported by the guys. That struck me as odd because I’ve always preached not to wear white running/tennis shoes because that screams “American tourist” to everyone. Well, these shoes were not exactly our version of tennis shoes, but pretty close.
So, foot fashions are changing… be on the lookout for tall boots and designer tennis shoes coming to a shopping mall near you… and don’t forget to pick up your faux-fur collared men’s jackets!
Ciao from Siena!
-David
P.S. Click here for another one of my “fashion” epiphanies in Siena.
2 more entries about hanging out on Il Campo:
Fashion in Siena
Camping out on Il Campo!
by David McGuffin | Dec 10, 2010 | Culture & Customs
I ran across this piece while listening to NPR. It give a great insight into music composition and recording. For you aspiring musicians and composers, this is a must listen!
Here is the link:
http://www.npr.org/blogs/therecord/2010/12/09/131912596/the-making-of-a-hit-song-jerry-wonda-s-platinum-sound
Fado in Coimbra is different than that of Lisbon. In Coimbra, Fado centers around the university community and is sung by men dressed in traditional academic capes, robes, and leggings. Like in Lisbon, it is accompanied by classical guitar and a specially tuned Portuguese guitar, but sounds totally different.
The actual Fado began at 9:20 p.m. and continued in four-song sets until midnight. We all enjoyed the performances of the male soloist and guitar ensemble. 
