by David McGuffin | Jan 30, 2011 | Culture & Customs, Destinations, Experiencing Europe
For some reason I am much more aware of fashion when in Siena than in other parts of the world. I don’t know if it’s the allure of
Il Campo, the
passeggiata on
via Banchi di Sopra or maybe just my heighten awareness of people. Regardless the cause, I know I do a lot more people watching when in Siena than in any other place.
Last week I made a whirlwind trip to Italy to lay the groundwork for a new itinerary linking Rome and Tuscany. In four days, I traced the route that my “real tour” would experience in eight days. It was a bit grueling, especially driving from Rome to Volterra on that first day, but with a few stops for an espresso at the Autogrill, I survived.
We arrived in Siena on night three of my “tour.” During the past three days, my tour guide friends, Andy and Mary Ada, had been meticulously combing every detail of this new itinerary. Ditching the rental car and checking into Hotel Chiusarelli was such a relief! No more driving… just walking the medieval streets of Siena.
We went directly to Il Campo, the weather was great so we grabbed a seat at one of the outdoor cafes and ordered lunch. One of the first things I noticed being here “off-season” was the lack of tourists. The huge square was scattered with just a few pods of people enjoying the sun and a picnic lunch. For early January, this warm weather is very uncommon and it seemed that many local folks were out to make the most of it.
Sitting there in the sun enjoying my pasta our conversation turned to the Palio, the famous horse race that occurs on this very square twice in the summer. As I described the event to my friends, I began pointing out the various brackets on the exterior walls around the square meant to attach rickety old wooden bleachers for the thousands who arrive in town for the horse race. In my description, I pointed out what I think is the perfect balcony perch for taking in this magnificent square during the Palio or anytime during the year. You can only access this balcony by way of the bar, discreetly tucked into the building below and if you are not looking for it, you’ll miss it.
After lunch, we went our own way and decided to meet up later for dinner. I poked around Siena’s various contrada neighborhoods hoping to run across some previously undiscovered (for me) little gem of a bar, restaurant or shop. I found many of them, but most importantly, I experienced Siena with only the locals in town. As I said, this was so unlike the heavy tourist traffic in the spring and summer months. Finally, I picked out a place in the market square to return to for dinner.
By now it was late afternoon, as I walked across Il Campo the long shadow from the bell tower stretched nearly all the way across the square. Leaving the sun, the temperature dropped ten degrees as I entered the main pedestrian streets known as via Banchi di Sopra. Suddenly I was among more people than I had seen all day! It was as if all of Siena had suddenly come out to take a stroll and visit with one another. I had walked right into the daily ritual known in Italy as the passeggiata, or the slow walk.
I dug out my camera and began snapping photos because I realized every woman was wearing some version of knee-high boots. There were all styles and colors ranging from swanky black leather to more casual thigh-high suede leather ones with fringe. I’ve included a few of the photos I snapped just so you can get an idea.
Big Boots & Little Kids
boot boots
Also, notice the men… many are wearing stylish shiny quilted jackets with faux-fur collars… something you’d never catch any guy in the USA wearing. Also, notice the white tennis shoes and jeans sported by the guys. That struck me as odd because I’ve always preached not to wear white running/tennis shoes because that screams “American tourist” to everyone. Well, these shoes were not exactly our version of tennis shoes, but pretty close.
So, foot fashions are changing… be on the lookout for tall boots and designer tennis shoes coming to a shopping mall near you… and don’t forget to pick up your faux-fur collared men’s jackets!
Ciao from Siena!
-David
P.S. Click here for another one of my “fashion” epiphanies in Siena.
2 more entries about hanging out on Il Campo:
Fashion in Siena
Camping out on Il Campo!
by David McGuffin | Dec 10, 2010 | Culture & Customs
I ran across this piece while listening to NPR. It give a great insight into music composition and recording. For you aspiring musicians and composers, this is a must listen!
Here is the link:
http://www.npr.org/blogs/therecord/2010/12/09/131912596/the-making-of-a-hit-song-jerry-wonda-s-platinum-sound
by David McGuffin | Sep 13, 2010 | Adventures in Tour Guiding, Culture & Customs, Destinations
I am back home after a summer of traveling in Europe. Over the past three months, I have visited and led tours in Ireland, Germany’s Mosel River Valley, Prague, lots of places in Italy, Scotland and Paris. Although many destinations felt like my second home, I did visit a few new locales that I can tuck away for future reference. Here is a pictorial review of my summer travel highlights.
IRELAND – Clonmacnoise Monastic site – County Offaly
IRELAND – Stacks of drying peat logs – County Offaly
IRELAND – The Cliffs of Mohar – County Clare
IRELAND- The Dingle Pub – County Kerry
Somebody had too much Guiness and got the wrong end up!
IRELAND – O’Flarherty’s Pub – Dingle, County Kerry
The Mosel River Valley – Germany
PRAGUE – Czech Republic
PRAGUE – Traditional Czech Restaurant
ITALY – Monterosso al Mare – Liguria (Cinque Terre)
Chef/owner Luigi Corcioli at La Lampara Ciak. The best spaghetti with shellfish I’ve ever tasted.
ITALY – Volterra, Tuscany
The only bar I go to in Volterra is “La Vene di Vino.” Owners Lucio and Bruno know how to make you feel at home and serve up some really good Tuscan vino.
Traveling by train from Milano to La Spezia.
ITALY- San Gimignano, Tuscany
Medieval Festival
ITALY – Florence, Tuscany
Cityscape view from the “Piazelle Michelangelo.”
ITALY – Volterra, Tuscany
Me and Genuino Del Duca, owner of my most favorite restaurant in all of Italy.
Ristorante Enoteca Del Duca – Volterra
SCOTLAND – Glasgow
The “Willow Tea Room” made famous by architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh. We dropped by for brunch at 10:30 on a Saturday morning. I had tea (of course) and a Scottish Salmon sandwich. During the entire experience I felt like I had to hold out my little finger while sipping the tea.
SCOTLAND – Oban
SCOTLAND – Lough Earn
We had a beautiful day to drive across Scotland from west to east.
SCOTLAND – St. Andrews
My friend John striking a pose on the 18th fairway at St. Andrews Old Course.
ITALY – Amalfi
ITALY – Ravello
The second time I’ve ever brought a tuxedo to Europe. I attended a wedding at Villa Cimbrone and it was amazing!
ITALY – Rome, Lazio
I caught the sunbeams just right in St. Peter’s.
ITALY – Viaggio, Tuscany
Charlotte and I spent the first two nights of our vacation here at
Agriturismo Savernano.
ITALY – Volterra, Tuscany
We happend upon a festival on July 31, 2010. Approaching midnight , the main square was filled with people lighting hot air filled luminaries. At midnight they sent them on their way into the night.
ITALY – Riomaggiore, Luguria
It has become a tradition that Charlotte and I spend a week at the
“Cinque Terre Residences” in August.
This year we ate out once and then I cooked the rest of the nights.
Thanks for taking a look at my photo gallery. Remember, you can join me in most any of theses destinations by taking a David McGuffin tour. Check out what I’ve got to offer at https://davidmcguffin.com.
by David McGuffin | Aug 2, 2009 | Culture & Customs, David's Journal
Historically, people have always butchered my last name. It’s pretty simple, and phonetic too… McGuffin. Yet all my life it has been pronounced incorrectly. Here are just a few of the variations: McGriffin, McGruffin, McGaffin, McGuhhh, McGovern, and so on.
I was in Ireland recently and had the opportunity to say or write my name on a daily basis. Only one aurally-imparied lady got it wrong. I guess that just goes to show you that the Irish and I have some common roots.
by David McGuffin | Jan 17, 2009 | Culture & Customs, Essential Travel Resources
Driving from my home to the airport a few days ago, I decided to make a comparision of driving styles on I-295 in Jacksonville, Florida and the AutoBahn between Munich and Salzburg. It all distills down to there being a “system” of driving in Germany.
I-295> The speed limit is 65/70 MPH with three lanes of traffic in each direction. Trucks and large vehicles can drive at any speed they wish and in any lane they please. Consequently everyone, including big trucks, whip from one lane to the other, in and out of traffic at will. Looking on from a rear-ward vantage point, the highway looks like a race track with vehicles switching from one lane to the other just to get around slower moving vehicles.
AUTOBAHN> Trucks are mandated to drive in the far right-hand lane. Their speed is regulated by a governor on the engine to 80, 90, or 100 Km/H. Often there are four lanes of traffic in each direction, but regardless of the lane count, each lane has an implied rate of travel. The lane closest to the truck lane (farthest to the right) is for slower moving vehicles. The middle lanes are for faster vehicles, and the extreme left lane is for the fast vehicles. Everyone knows this unspoken rule and stays in the appropriate lane of travel. Should a slower moving driver find himself in the “hyper fast” left lane, he’ll have a Mercedes flashing its headlights on his tail in no time flat! Additionally, depending on traffic and weather conditions, there often is no limit to the speed of travel. Electronic signs above travel lanes change according to the conditions alerting drivers of speed limits or unlimited rate of travel. It is not uncommon for sleek Audis, BMW’s, or Mercedes to zip along at speeds in excesses of 200 kph (110 MPH) or more!
If you are driving here as I am this week, follow the system, signs, and traffic patterns and you’ll enjoy your trip.
by David McGuffin | Nov 11, 2008 | Culture & Customs, Experiencing Europe
OK, I’ve finally given in to Starbucks. For ten years now, I’ve shrugged off the Starbucks “ambiance” simply because I really don’t like coffee all that much. But in the last few months, I’ve enjoyed a cappuccino and free WIFI complements of Starbucks. There is also an added bonus of the free mp3 iTunes downloads every Tuesday.
Why I am onto Starbucks? Well in the spring of 2006, I traveled with a group of high school students in France and Spain. Everyday, I lamented at the coincidental passing of a Starbuck store. No matter whether it be in Paris, Lucerne, or Madrid, the “kids” always migrated to a nearby Starbucks. Even if the Eiffel Tower or Plaza Mayor was sure to appear around the next corner, Starbucks always won out. All I can figure out is that Starbucks provides an “Americana” taste of home in a foreign land.
European coffee is strong. Regardless of the county you’re visiting, it is sure to give you a supercharged jolt of caffeine. Coffee varies according to the season. Take Greece for example; could it be they invented the “frappucino?” Visit Athens in July or August, and you’ll find the locals drinking their special blend of very strong iced coffee. By noon, when it is unbearably hot, you still find the locals sipping their own brand of “frappucino.” But come sunset, you’ll find lots of men sitting neighborhood cafes sipping their own hot coffee.
In Italy, any self-respecting local would never think of drinking anything but a quick shot of espresso after noon. Italian cafes, bars, and even highway rest stops serve some of the best espresso to be found. Espresso is a highly concentrated coffee served in a little “one sip” cup. It’s simple to get a shot, but you’ve got to know the system: go to the cash register, order your drink, pay your bill, take the receipt to the coffee counter, and give it to the barista. Soon, you’ll have a frothy dark brown liquid served up in a tiny cup and saucer. Don’t sit, stand at the highrise table and enjoy.
Want a cappuccino? Italians would never think of drinking one outside the morning hours. I’ve heard it said on many occasions that only tourists drink a cappuccino after noon.
Spain is the same, except the coffee is stronger and more concentrated! France is a little better with its “French-Pressed” coffee, but it is still stronger than what we get in North America.
Germany has tempered their morning coffee to North American standards. Their coffee most closely resembles what we have in North America. But, that’s not quite true in Vienna where coffeehouses were first modeled after those in Turkey. Here you’ll find rich, full-bodied coffee which will give a “caffeine buzz” quicker than any I’ve ever experienced.
The bottom line is that coffee is not just coffee, each country has its own twist to the coffee grinder. But, you can always count on it being different than what you get at home. Enjoy and savor… it’s truly European!
-David
For some reason I am much more aware of fashion when in Siena than in other parts of the world. I don’t know if it’s the allure of Il Campo, the passeggiata on via Banchi di Sopra or maybe just my heighten awareness of people. Regardless the cause, I know I do a lot more people watching when in Siena than in any other place.
Sitting there in the sun enjoying my pasta our conversation turned to the Palio, the famous horse race that occurs on this very square twice in the summer. As I described the event to my friends, I began pointing out the various brackets on the exterior walls around the square meant to attach rickety old wooden bleachers for the thousands who arrive in town for the horse race. In my description, I pointed out what I think is the perfect balcony perch for taking in this magnificent square during the Palio or anytime during the year. You can only access this balcony by way of the bar, discreetly tucked into the building below and if you are not looking for it, you’ll miss it. 
