by David McGuffin | Jan 17, 2009 | Culture & Customs, Essential Travel Resources
Driving from my home to the airport a few days ago, I decided to make a comparision of driving styles on I-295 in Jacksonville, Florida and the AutoBahn between Munich and Salzburg. It all distills down to there being a “system” of driving in Germany.
I-295> The speed limit is 65/70 MPH with three lanes of traffic in each direction. Trucks and large vehicles can drive at any speed they wish and in any lane they please. Consequently everyone, including big trucks, whip from one lane to the other, in and out of traffic at will. Looking on from a rear-ward vantage point, the highway looks like a race track with vehicles switching from one lane to the other just to get around slower moving vehicles.
AUTOBAHN> Trucks are mandated to drive in the far right-hand lane. Their speed is regulated by a governor on the engine to 80, 90, or 100 Km/H. Often there are four lanes of traffic in each direction, but regardless of the lane count, each lane has an implied rate of travel. The lane closest to the truck lane (farthest to the right) is for slower moving vehicles. The middle lanes are for faster vehicles, and the extreme left lane is for the fast vehicles. Everyone knows this unspoken rule and stays in the appropriate lane of travel. Should a slower moving driver find himself in the “hyper fast” left lane, he’ll have a Mercedes flashing its headlights on his tail in no time flat! Additionally, depending on traffic and weather conditions, there often is no limit to the speed of travel. Electronic signs above travel lanes change according to the conditions alerting drivers of speed limits or unlimited rate of travel. It is not uncommon for sleek Audis, BMW’s, or Mercedes to zip along at speeds in excesses of 200 kph (110 MPH) or more!
If you are driving here as I am this week, follow the system, signs, and traffic patterns and you’ll enjoy your trip.
by David McGuffin | Nov 11, 2008 | Culture & Customs, Experiencing Europe
OK, I’ve finally given in to Starbucks. For ten years now, I’ve shrugged off the Starbucks “ambiance” simply because I really don’t like coffee all that much. But in the last few months, I’ve enjoyed a cappuccino and free WIFI complements of Starbucks. There is also an added bonus of the free mp3 iTunes downloads every Tuesday.
Why I am onto Starbucks? Well in the spring of 2006, I traveled with a group of high school students in France and Spain. Everyday, I lamented at the coincidental passing of a Starbuck store. No matter whether it be in Paris, Lucerne, or Madrid, the “kids” always migrated to a nearby Starbucks. Even if the Eiffel Tower or Plaza Mayor was sure to appear around the next corner, Starbucks always won out. All I can figure out is that Starbucks provides an “Americana” taste of home in a foreign land.
European coffee is strong. Regardless of the county you’re visiting, it is sure to give you a supercharged jolt of caffeine. Coffee varies according to the season. Take Greece for example; could it be they invented the “frappucino?” Visit Athens in July or August, and you’ll find the locals drinking their special blend of very strong iced coffee. By noon, when it is unbearably hot, you still find the locals sipping their own brand of “frappucino.” But come sunset, you’ll find lots of men sitting neighborhood cafes sipping their own hot coffee.
In Italy, any self-respecting local would never think of drinking anything but a quick shot of espresso after noon. Italian cafes, bars, and even highway rest stops serve some of the best espresso to be found. Espresso is a highly concentrated coffee served in a little “one sip” cup. It’s simple to get a shot, but you’ve got to know the system: go to the cash register, order your drink, pay your bill, take the receipt to the coffee counter, and give it to the barista. Soon, you’ll have a frothy dark brown liquid served up in a tiny cup and saucer. Don’t sit, stand at the highrise table and enjoy.
Want a cappuccino? Italians would never think of drinking one outside the morning hours. I’ve heard it said on many occasions that only tourists drink a cappuccino after noon.
Spain is the same, except the coffee is stronger and more concentrated! France is a little better with its “French-Pressed” coffee, but it is still stronger than what we get in North America.
Germany has tempered their morning coffee to North American standards. Their coffee most closely resembles what we have in North America. But, that’s not quite true in Vienna where coffeehouses were first modeled after those in Turkey. Here you’ll find rich, full-bodied coffee which will give a “caffeine buzz” quicker than any I’ve ever experienced.
The bottom line is that coffee is not just coffee, each country has its own twist to the coffee grinder. But, you can always count on it being different than what you get at home. Enjoy and savor… it’s truly European!
-David
by David McGuffin | Oct 11, 2008 | Culture & Customs, Eating & Drinking
When traveling in Europe, I think half the thrill is experiencing good food and good drink with good friends. Over the years, I’ve developed this uncanny knack for searching out and finding cool little places to eat and drink. My rule is always go for the local stuff. To do that, you’ve often got to get out of your comfort zone, venture sometimes into the unknown, and even be willing to accept embarrassment or ridicule… but the pay-off is most always worth the effort.
Eating in Ireland is a lot different than it used to be. We’ve all heard stories about the Irish living on nothing but potatoes, stew, whiskey, and Guinness, but all that has changed in the last 15 years or so. Now-a-days you can have a traditional “pub grub” experience or a gourmet meal all within 100 meters. Ireland has the fastest growing economy in all the European Union and consequently, many fine restaurants have opened their doors on this formerly poor island in the north Atlantic.
Tonight I’ll confine my comments to traditional pub food. Later, I’ll address the diverse multicultural dining choices that rival anywhere I’ve ever traveled.
PUB GRUB
Earlier in a previous blog entered, I discussed how to get a drink at a pub. Before the pub served only drinks, now it serves food. Traditionally, food is served in a pub from noon to 8:30 or 9:00 p.m. Before and after that, only drinks are sold… HA, go figure. So, you might wonder what is there to eat at a pub in Ireland? I’ll give a rather broad answer based on my extensive pub dining experiences.
There are two types of pubs: those for the locals, and those for the tourists. Sometimes if you are lucky you’ll happen to fall on a mix of the two, but then you’ve got to be very careful not to offend the drunken local patrons (usually men and women in their 60’s). Just keep your cool and take it all in.
Here is a typical pub menu:
Fish and Chips – fried fresh cod and french fries
Irish Stew – lamb and potatoes in a rich broth
Beef and Guinness Pie – chunks of beef, mushrooms, carrots and onions in a rich Guinness and thyme sauce.
Bangers and Mash – pork sausages served with mash potato and onion gravy.
Boiled Bacon and Cabbage – enough said.
Seafood Chowder – usually in a white sauce
Joint of the Day – a roasted delight of beef or pork served with veggies. Although it sounds yucky, it really is tender and tasty. Each pub has its specialty and there is certainly more to every menu, but I think this covers the basic “pub grub” server up in Irish pubs. These meals normally cost no more than 10-12 euro per plate.
Ordering food is different than ordering a drink. Simply walk into the pub (during eating hours), grab a seat and someone will come and take your food order. Often you’ll have to place your drink order at the bar, but even that is changing with the “new” Ireland. Once your order arrives, often from the basement kitchen below, dig in and enjoy.
Here’s a hint… don’t eat too much if you plan to stay for the “trad session” (traditional music) later because then you’ll want to have a pint in your hand and a spring in your step. Too much stew can spoil the experience!! Trust me, I speak from experience.
Many pubs are getting mighty “uppity” in modern-day Ireland. Take the Brazen Head in Dublin for example. This is the oldest pub in Ireland, according to the promotional material. Yet it is loaded with tourists and its dining menu is is filled with so many “gourmet” choices I have a hard time deciding if I’m in a pub or a fine restaurant. Add in the semi-traditional music and you’ve got a tourist trap nightmare.
In my next entry I’ll recommend some of my favorite pubs around Ireland.
-David
**You can add your two-cents worth by clicking on the comments link below.**
by David McGuffin | Sep 12, 2008 | Culture & Customs, Experiencing Europe
When traveling in Europe, I think half the thrill is experiencing good food and good drink with good friends. Over the years, I’ve developed this uncanny knack for searching out and finding cool little places to eat and drink. My rule is always go for the local stuff. To do that, you’ve often got to get out of your comfort zone, venture sometimes into the unknown, and even be willing to accept embarrassment or ridicule… but the pay-off is most always worth the effort.
CZECH REPUBLIC – Czech food is heavy. Couple that with a pint or three of their fine pilsner and you’ve got way too much to fill your belly! Honestly, you’ve got to plan your eating strategies when dining on traditional Czech fare. I was in Prague recently and I sat down to lunch on a dreary, rainy day at restaurant U procvaznice, which literally means “the rope maker” in the Czech language. This was the second time I had eaten lunch at this traditional establishment. On this particular day I was in the company of Andrea, a local Prague guide, who had shown me and my group around Prague. After four hours of touring we were ready to eat, and man was this the place to fill up!
Just look at the stuff on my plate in the photo. Roasted pork, potato dumplings, more potatoes, cabbage, all covered with gravy. I bet there was 4000 calories on that plate but believe me, they were fittin’ calories. Here is a sample from this restaurant’s main course menu:
- Tenderloin with cream sauce
- The True Master’s Goulash
- Two Wiener Schnitzel
- A Quarter of Roast Duck
- Old Prague Plate for Two
- Roasted pig’s Leg with Horseradish and mustard
- Pig’s Leg of Bertha the Beauty (Roasted in Beer)
- Piquant Ribs waiting to be Picked Clean
- Fried Trout in Almond Jacket
Click on the link to the U procvaznice website for a complete run down of the restaurant, the history, and the atmosphere. This place is off the normal tourist path, although it is listed in several guide books. On the occasions I’ve eaten here my friends and I have been the only speakers of English. That’s a good recommendation!
-David
**You can add your two-cents worth by clicking on the comments link below.
by David McGuffin | Sep 6, 2008 | Culture & Customs, Experiencing Europe
When traveling in Europe, I think half the thrill is experiencing good food and good drink with good friends. Over the years I’ve developed this uncanny knack for searching out and finding cool little places to eat and drink. My rule is always go for the local stuff. To do that, you’ve often got to get out of your comfort zone, venture sometimes into the unknown, and even be willing to accept embarrassment or ridicule… but the pay-off is most always worth the effort.
CZECH REPUBLIC – The Czech Republic is known for good lager. Ever since the middle ages many towns, no matter how small, have had their own brand of beer. Last month I was in Český Krumlov and Prague with a small tour group. We had our share of wine in France for the first few days, but the last half of the tour was in “beer” country. First Switzerland, then Austria, and finally the Czech Republic. Pilsner reigns supreme in the Czech Republic. Its light, clear color ranging from pale up to a golden yellow is a treat to the eyes, and the distinct hop aroma is a bouquet for the nose. And the flavor… pure, clean, crisp, with no after taste.
The most popular Czech Pilsners are Pilsner Urquell, Staropramen, and Budweiser. Budweiser is probably most interesting to us Americans. The Czech “Budweiser” and America’s Anheuser-Busch “Budweiser” are miles apart in taste and quality. Where Anheuser-Busch “Budweiser” gives me an immediate headache, the Czech variety is smooth as silk with great taste and flavor. It seems that original Czech Budweiser Bier was founded in 1795 in Budweis, a town in Bohemia (now part of the Czech Republic). This beer was known as Budweiser because it was known to be from the town of Budweis, hence the adjective Budweis-er. In the United States, Anheuser-Busch started using the name Budweiser for its beer in 1876 and two years later they finally decided to register its name. So I guess the long story short is that there has long been a debate over which is the “King of Beers,” beer from Budweis or beer from Anheuser-Busch. For me there is no comparasion. I go for the original and local stuff every time.
**You can add your two-cents worth by clicking on the comments link below.
by David McGuffin | Sep 3, 2008 | Culture & Customs, Experiencing Europe
FREE REFILLS on sodas, sweet tea, and any other beverage is definitely an American thing. There is NO WAY any European restaurant is even going to consider it. Even at McDonald’s, which has restaurants in every major city in Europe, you’ll get a curt “no” or a quizzical look when asking for a refill. So sorry guys, along with no ice, you’ll also get no refills and no sympathy.
**You can add your two-cents worth by clicking on the comments link below.
