by David McGuffin | Jun 14, 2011 | Culture & Customs, David's Journal, Destinations, Eating & Drinking
Fado in Coimbra is different than that of Lisbon. In Coimbra, Fado centers around the university community and is sung by men dressed in traditional academic capes, robes, and leggings. Like in Lisbon, it is accompanied by classical guitar and a specially tuned Portuguese guitar, but sounds totally different.
My group and I arrive early at A Capella, a small 14th century chapel turned tapas bar and Fado venue. The owner and chief Fado singer were practicing a rock and roll set scheduled for performance at 12 midnight. Luckily, we were able to preorder a set dinner menu of lamb or fish.
The actual Fado began at 9:20 p.m. and continued in four-song sets until midnight. We all enjoyed the performances of the male soloist and guitar ensemble.
The food was good and by the end of the evening, the chapel was packed with 80-100 people drinking, eating and enjoying the Fado experience.
by David McGuffin | Jun 13, 2011 | Culture & Customs, Destinations
England has Oxford, France has Le Sorbonne, Florida has Gainesville and Portugal has Coimbra. Yes, Coimbra is Portugal’s university town with lots of interesting things to see and do.
We arrived in Coimbra around 2 p.m. on a Saturday. Having never been there, I was not impressed with the hotel’s location in a sort of dumpy part of the new town near the station and the river. In fact, the hotel staff had to convince me that Coimbra was worth an overnight stay. As it turned out, the Hotel Oslo has a wonderfully helpful staff, a good location to the sights and clean and modern rooms. I am glad I stayed in Coimbra.
I split up my afternoon at a medieval fair in the Cathedral Square and down by the river in a shady park. My friends Susan, Mrs. Mc and Lindsay are traveling with me on this whirlwind trip through central Spain and Portugal. Consequently, we kind of take it slow and easy because Mrs. Mc is a bit fragile and about 25 years older than me. However, she is a trooper and is willing to try and do almost anything. When it comes to climbing up and down steep cobbled lanes, stairs, and paths… it’s slow, but steady, going.
Today, the climb from the river to the top of town was crowded with about 3,000 people attending the medieval fair and once we arrived at the cathedral square we all knew it was not the place for us. There were all sorts of meat being cooked and sold right off the spit. Beer and wine were flowing freely and local were dressed in medieval period costumes acting out their various roles. If it were not so hot and crowded it could have been fun, but with steep streets and unsure footing, this was not a pleasant experience.
Down by the riverside was a different story. Pleasantly cool and shady, we all could have taken a nap on a park bench. Instead, we enjoyed a drink at the riverside cafe while watching local children learning to sail in their own little one-man sailboats.
Afterward, we took advantage of the traditional siesta by resting back at the hotel for a few hours.
by David McGuffin | Jun 10, 2011 | Destinations
Arrived here on a Friday afternoon, just as the local school was getting out for the summer vacation. Apparently, the school occupies an interior segment of El Escorial. El Escorial is the “summer palace” of Spain’s royal family. Built in the 16th century, it is still in pretty good shape today.
Just arrived from Atlanta this morning. Very pleasant… 72 degrees!
by David McGuffin | Mar 28, 2011 | Destinations, Experiencing Europe, Uncategorized
I’ve been calling Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland my alpine home for the past 15 years. Tucked away and hidden from the mega-tourism of Switzerland, Lauterbrunnen is a sleepy little jumping off point for savvy outdoor enthusiasts looking for a laid-back village with lots of outdoor recreation.
I’ve spent the day wandering around the alpine terrain and villages above Lauterbrunnen. The entire region is connected by a series of railways, trams, lifts, and funiculars making transportation a breeze. One could effortlessly experience a lot of the countryside by taking public transportation, but for me, I want to get out for some exercise. I’m visiting here in March and it appears the ski season is still going strong. Unfortunately, I never tried snow skiing and I’m too old to begin now, so I’ll trust my adventures to my own two feet and get out for a good hike.
I began my day by taking the lift from Lauterbrunnen to Grüutschalp, a ten-minute ride and elevation gain of more than 4000 feet. From Grütschalp, I walked on a fairly easy trail for 1.5 hours to the resort village of Mürren. It is loaded with swanky alpine hotels designed for skiers and outdoor enthusiasts. Mürren is an alpine village with no vehicular traffic (except farm and service equipment) and requires a lift and a train to reach its hotels and chalets. I believe it is a bit on the expensive side, but I enjoy the ambiance for lunch and poking around.
After touring the town, top to bottom, I decided to have lunch at an outdoor café with a view of the Alps. I ordered raclette, which is a sinfully delicious mixture of melted Swiss cheese, boiled potatoes, pearl onions, Gherkin pickles, and a few garnishes. Wash this rich and gooey dish down with a flask of the local brew and you’ve got a tasty meal.
From Mürren, I hiked downhill to the quaint farming village of Gimmelwald . Up above town, I found a comfy bench with a grand view of the glacial mountains where sat and I updated my journal and finally, laid down for a peaceful nap. Later, I took the cable car back down to the valley floor and walked along the river to Lauterbrunnen.
This was a `great day, but I’ve experienced many such days in the Lauterbrunnen Valley. In the past hour, I’ve enjoyed broad sweeping alpine vistas from my hotel balcony while putting the finishing touches on this blog entry. Now, it is getting dark, and I am getting cold. I believe we have the two Swiss favorites of fondue and rösti on the menu for dinner. It’s days like this that reminds me of the wonders of exploring Europe!
by David McGuffin | Mar 25, 2011 | Adventures in Tour Guiding, Destinations, Eating & Drinking, Restaurant Reviews
The Mercato de San Miguel has long served as central Madrid’s one-stop “farmer’s” market. I first visited here years ago when locals dropped in for fresh ingredients for a full meal. Here one can find fresh and smelly fish, harry legs of Iberian ham, countless bottles of wine, fresh and squeaky-clean vegetables and all the extras as well.
Arriving at the Mercato de San Miguel this year I found an enhanced market with the new additions of many vendors selling tapas to eat right away. Last night we decided to have a movable feast of tapas and drinks at the market. About forty of us descended on the market at 7:00 pm and munched and drank our way through dinner in a four hour moveable feast. What a great way to experience Madrid and get right into the heartbeat of the local culture.
Vivian found what she dubbed “the most amazing sweets ever.” A warm center of caramel surrounded by puff pastry and loaded with chocolate and cream topping.
Kayla and friends found more desserts that were pretty amazing as well.
My friend Chris and I enjoyed a plate of french fries at the hotel bar before we went to the market. Once there, he did not realize I was paying for their tapas hunting! Finally, with money in hand, Chris found somethings a little better than that plate of fries.
For 2,3,or 4 euros you can get a tasty selection of OLIVES. I enjoyed olives stuffed with calamari, cheese and ham. They also had one variety that tasted smokey and herbal. The flavor was so intense I could not get enough of them!
The Jamon Iberico is great. There are several varieties ranging in price from 5 to 16 euros per kilo. The best variety is Jamon Bellota which is thinly sliced from the leg of a black Iberian pig fed only a diet of acorns and allowed to roam freely. You have to purchase at least 500 grams (about 9 euros) which will feed 4 people.
The cheesemonger’s kiosk was a popular place. For about 6 euros I asked the vendor to assembly six selections of her favorite cheeses. I don’t know what I got, but all of them were tasty! I chose one variety on my own and boy did I make a mistake. It was a mixture of sheep and goat cheese and when I pointed to it, the vendor wrinkled her nose in disgust. I don’t know why I decided to get it anyway!
So, if you happen to find yourself in Madrid make a point to enjoy and experience the Mercato de San Miguel. It’s on Calle Major between Puerta del Sol and the Royal Palace, just around the corner from Plaza Major.
by David McGuffin | Mar 13, 2011 | Culture & Customs, Destinations
Just by luck, I happen on a CARNEVAL celebration weekend in Zurich. Yesterday, the old city center was alive with people, mardi gras-like beads, tons of confetti and an odd assortment of costumes, bands, and well-lubricated people enjoying the event.
I did not arrive on site until about 7:00 p.m., but even at that hour, the town was alive with action. Actually, I had arrived to find someplace to eat dinner, but those plans were put on hold for a bit so I could experience the festivities.
Walking just one block in either direction from the wild festival atmosphere brings you to the peaceful river and a great illuminating view church spires.
Fado in Coimbra is different than that of Lisbon. In Coimbra, Fado centers around the university community and is sung by men dressed in traditional academic capes, robes, and leggings. Like in Lisbon, it is accompanied by classical guitar and a specially tuned Portuguese guitar, but sounds totally different.
The actual Fado began at 9:20 p.m. and continued in four-song sets until midnight. We all enjoyed the performances of the male soloist and guitar ensemble. 
