by David McGuffin | Mar 28, 2011 | Destinations, Experiencing Europe, Uncategorized
I’ve been calling Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland my alpine home for the past 15 years. Tucked away and hidden from the mega-tourism of Switzerland, Lauterbrunnen is a sleepy little jumping off point for savvy outdoor enthusiasts looking for a laid-back village with lots of outdoor recreation.
I’ve spent the day wandering around the alpine terrain and villages above Lauterbrunnen. The entire region is connected by a series of railways, trams, lifts, and funiculars making transportation a breeze. One could effortlessly experience a lot of the countryside by taking public transportation, but for me, I want to get out for some exercise. I’m visiting here in March and it appears the ski season is still going strong. Unfortunately, I never tried snow skiing and I’m too old to begin now, so I’ll trust my adventures to my own two feet and get out for a good hike.
I began my day by taking the lift from Lauterbrunnen to Grüutschalp, a ten-minute ride and elevation gain of more than 4000 feet. From Grütschalp, I walked on a fairly easy trail for 1.5 hours to the resort village of Mürren. It is loaded with swanky alpine hotels designed for skiers and outdoor enthusiasts. Mürren is an alpine village with no vehicular traffic (except farm and service equipment) and requires a lift and a train to reach its hotels and chalets. I believe it is a bit on the expensive side, but I enjoy the ambiance for lunch and poking around.
After touring the town, top to bottom, I decided to have lunch at an outdoor café with a view of the Alps. I ordered raclette, which is a sinfully delicious mixture of melted Swiss cheese, boiled potatoes, pearl onions, Gherkin pickles, and a few garnishes. Wash this rich and gooey dish down with a flask of the local brew and you’ve got a tasty meal.
From Mürren, I hiked downhill to the quaint farming village of Gimmelwald . Up above town, I found a comfy bench with a grand view of the glacial mountains where sat and I updated my journal and finally, laid down for a peaceful nap. Later, I took the cable car back down to the valley floor and walked along the river to Lauterbrunnen.
This was a `great day, but I’ve experienced many such days in the Lauterbrunnen Valley. In the past hour, I’ve enjoyed broad sweeping alpine vistas from my hotel balcony while putting the finishing touches on this blog entry. Now, it is getting dark, and I am getting cold. I believe we have the two Swiss favorites of fondue and rösti on the menu for dinner. It’s days like this that reminds me of the wonders of exploring Europe!
by David McGuffin | Mar 25, 2011 | Adventures in Tour Guiding, Destinations, Eating & Drinking, Restaurant Reviews
The Mercato de San Miguel has long served as central Madrid’s one-stop “farmer’s” market. I first visited here years ago when locals dropped in for fresh ingredients for a full meal. Here one can find fresh and smelly fish, harry legs of Iberian ham, countless bottles of wine, fresh and squeaky-clean vegetables and all the extras as well.
Arriving at the Mercato de San Miguel this year I found an enhanced market with the new additions of many vendors selling tapas to eat right away. Last night we decided to have a movable feast of tapas and drinks at the market. About forty of us descended on the market at 7:00 pm and munched and drank our way through dinner in a four hour moveable feast. What a great way to experience Madrid and get right into the heartbeat of the local culture.
Vivian found what she dubbed “the most amazing sweets ever.” A warm center of caramel surrounded by puff pastry and loaded with chocolate and cream topping.
Kayla and friends found more desserts that were pretty amazing as well.
My friend Chris and I enjoyed a plate of french fries at the hotel bar before we went to the market. Once there, he did not realize I was paying for their tapas hunting! Finally, with money in hand, Chris found somethings a little better than that plate of fries.
For 2,3,or 4 euros you can get a tasty selection of OLIVES. I enjoyed olives stuffed with calamari, cheese and ham. They also had one variety that tasted smokey and herbal. The flavor was so intense I could not get enough of them!
The Jamon Iberico is great. There are several varieties ranging in price from 5 to 16 euros per kilo. The best variety is Jamon Bellota which is thinly sliced from the leg of a black Iberian pig fed only a diet of acorns and allowed to roam freely. You have to purchase at least 500 grams (about 9 euros) which will feed 4 people.
The cheesemonger’s kiosk was a popular place. For about 6 euros I asked the vendor to assembly six selections of her favorite cheeses. I don’t know what I got, but all of them were tasty! I chose one variety on my own and boy did I make a mistake. It was a mixture of sheep and goat cheese and when I pointed to it, the vendor wrinkled her nose in disgust. I don’t know why I decided to get it anyway!
So, if you happen to find yourself in Madrid make a point to enjoy and experience the Mercato de San Miguel. It’s on Calle Major between Puerta del Sol and the Royal Palace, just around the corner from Plaza Major.
by David McGuffin | Mar 13, 2011 | Culture & Customs, Destinations
Just by luck, I happen on a CARNEVAL celebration weekend in Zurich. Yesterday, the old city center was alive with people, mardi gras-like beads, tons of confetti and an odd assortment of costumes, bands, and well-lubricated people enjoying the event.
I did not arrive on site until about 7:00 p.m., but even at that hour, the town was alive with action. Actually, I had arrived to find someplace to eat dinner, but those plans were put on hold for a bit so I could experience the festivities.
Walking just one block in either direction from the wild festival atmosphere brings you to the peaceful river and a great illuminating view church spires.
by David McGuffin | Jan 30, 2011 | Culture & Customs, Destinations, Experiencing Europe
For some reason I am much more aware of fashion when in Siena than in other parts of the world. I don’t know if it’s the allure of
Il Campo, the
passeggiata on
via Banchi di Sopra or maybe just my heighten awareness of people. Regardless the cause, I know I do a lot more people watching when in Siena than in any other place.
Last week I made a whirlwind trip to Italy to lay the groundwork for a new itinerary linking Rome and Tuscany. In four days, I traced the route that my “real tour” would experience in eight days. It was a bit grueling, especially driving from Rome to Volterra on that first day, but with a few stops for an espresso at the Autogrill, I survived.
We arrived in Siena on night three of my “tour.” During the past three days, my tour guide friends, Andy and Mary Ada, had been meticulously combing every detail of this new itinerary. Ditching the rental car and checking into Hotel Chiusarelli was such a relief! No more driving… just walking the medieval streets of Siena.
We went directly to Il Campo, the weather was great so we grabbed a seat at one of the outdoor cafes and ordered lunch. One of the first things I noticed being here “off-season” was the lack of tourists. The huge square was scattered with just a few pods of people enjoying the sun and a picnic lunch. For early January, this warm weather is very uncommon and it seemed that many local folks were out to make the most of it.
Sitting there in the sun enjoying my pasta our conversation turned to the Palio, the famous horse race that occurs on this very square twice in the summer. As I described the event to my friends, I began pointing out the various brackets on the exterior walls around the square meant to attach rickety old wooden bleachers for the thousands who arrive in town for the horse race. In my description, I pointed out what I think is the perfect balcony perch for taking in this magnificent square during the Palio or anytime during the year. You can only access this balcony by way of the bar, discreetly tucked into the building below and if you are not looking for it, you’ll miss it.
After lunch, we went our own way and decided to meet up later for dinner. I poked around Siena’s various contrada neighborhoods hoping to run across some previously undiscovered (for me) little gem of a bar, restaurant or shop. I found many of them, but most importantly, I experienced Siena with only the locals in town. As I said, this was so unlike the heavy tourist traffic in the spring and summer months. Finally, I picked out a place in the market square to return to for dinner.
By now it was late afternoon, as I walked across Il Campo the long shadow from the bell tower stretched nearly all the way across the square. Leaving the sun, the temperature dropped ten degrees as I entered the main pedestrian streets known as via Banchi di Sopra. Suddenly I was among more people than I had seen all day! It was as if all of Siena had suddenly come out to take a stroll and visit with one another. I had walked right into the daily ritual known in Italy as the passeggiata, or the slow walk.
I dug out my camera and began snapping photos because I realized every woman was wearing some version of knee-high boots. There were all styles and colors ranging from swanky black leather to more casual thigh-high suede leather ones with fringe. I’ve included a few of the photos I snapped just so you can get an idea.
Big Boots & Little Kids
boot boots
Also, notice the men… many are wearing stylish shiny quilted jackets with faux-fur collars… something you’d never catch any guy in the USA wearing. Also, notice the white tennis shoes and jeans sported by the guys. That struck me as odd because I’ve always preached not to wear white running/tennis shoes because that screams “American tourist” to everyone. Well, these shoes were not exactly our version of tennis shoes, but pretty close.
So, foot fashions are changing… be on the lookout for tall boots and designer tennis shoes coming to a shopping mall near you… and don’t forget to pick up your faux-fur collared men’s jackets!
Ciao from Siena!
-David
P.S. Click here for another one of my “fashion” epiphanies in Siena.
2 more entries about hanging out on Il Campo:
Fashion in Siena
Camping out on Il Campo!
by David McGuffin | Dec 17, 2010 | David's Journal, Destinations
Have you ever been lost? Not the kind of lost where you really don’t have a clue where you are, but being lost in familiar territory. Confused yet? Well I was too.
I had just arrived in London. I’d traveled most of the day from hot and sunny Madrid to wet and soggy London. The Thameslink train dropped me near Kingscross Station and I hoped on the TUBE to my hotel. When I emerged from the TUBE station at Tower Bridge I knew, according to the directions given by the hotel operator, I was just a short walk from my bed for the night!
The Tower Bridge station is right across the road from the Tower of London, just on the west side of the Thames. When I couldn’t see the hotel from my location, I decide to do the smart thing and call the hotel for more detailed directions. Little did I know I would get “central reservations” located in who knows what little podunk town in the depths of England. The reservations agent sounded like she knew what she was talking about, so I believed her when she said ” it’s east, just walk from your present location and follow the road away from the Thames. “Don’t go across the river” she exclaimed.
Well, I took her at her word and proceeded to walk (with my 30 pound backpack). Twenty minutes later there was no hotel in sight. Instead, I’d crossed over into some industrial zone in London where the prevailing industry was shipping and loading boxes from trains to freighters. So I did the logical thing, I retraced my steps to Tower Bridge. Knowing my hotel was NOT across the river, according to the previous directions, I took another route away from the bridge! On this I ended up almost all the way back to Kings Cross Station. The spot I had left over two hours ago!
By now I was frustrated, hot and worn-out! I decide to hail a taxi. Being in London there are tons of taxis. But out in the boondocks of the city they all had fares. So I had to make my way to a Tube station to find a taxi stand. Finally! I was in one of the big black sedans. The driver asked where I was going. I gave him the address and off he went. Soon we crossed the Thames by way of the Tower Bridge and just two blocks later I was dropped at my hotel!
My lesson here is a TAXI is sometimes worth the expense. If you’ve got less time than money, then a taxi can be a lifesaver. It cost me about $7 to get that taxi to my hotel. But the worst thing is that I wasted an hour wandering around looking for the blasted place!
Later in the evening I began to wander down the east bank of the Thames into an old seafaring part of London. My wandering took me past clipper ships, chic bars, and a wonderful view of the city. This was a different kind of wandering that I had done in the afternoon looking for my hotel. Tonight, I wanted to get lost in order to discover new ground. This is what I call exploring Europe!
by David McGuffin | Sep 13, 2010 | Adventures in Tour Guiding, Culture & Customs, Destinations
I am back home after a summer of traveling in Europe. Over the past three months, I have visited and led tours in Ireland, Germany’s Mosel River Valley, Prague, lots of places in Italy, Scotland and Paris. Although many destinations felt like my second home, I did visit a few new locales that I can tuck away for future reference. Here is a pictorial review of my summer travel highlights.
IRELAND – Clonmacnoise Monastic site – County Offaly
IRELAND – Stacks of drying peat logs – County Offaly
IRELAND – The Cliffs of Mohar – County Clare
IRELAND- The Dingle Pub – County Kerry
Somebody had too much Guiness and got the wrong end up!
IRELAND – O’Flarherty’s Pub – Dingle, County Kerry
The Mosel River Valley – Germany
PRAGUE – Czech Republic
PRAGUE – Traditional Czech Restaurant
ITALY – Monterosso al Mare – Liguria (Cinque Terre)
Chef/owner Luigi Corcioli at La Lampara Ciak. The best spaghetti with shellfish I’ve ever tasted.
ITALY – Volterra, Tuscany
The only bar I go to in Volterra is “La Vene di Vino.” Owners Lucio and Bruno know how to make you feel at home and serve up some really good Tuscan vino.
Traveling by train from Milano to La Spezia.
ITALY- San Gimignano, Tuscany
Medieval Festival
ITALY – Florence, Tuscany
Cityscape view from the “Piazelle Michelangelo.”
ITALY – Volterra, Tuscany
Me and Genuino Del Duca, owner of my most favorite restaurant in all of Italy.
Ristorante Enoteca Del Duca – Volterra
SCOTLAND – Glasgow
The “Willow Tea Room” made famous by architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh. We dropped by for brunch at 10:30 on a Saturday morning. I had tea (of course) and a Scottish Salmon sandwich. During the entire experience I felt like I had to hold out my little finger while sipping the tea.
SCOTLAND – Oban
SCOTLAND – Lough Earn
We had a beautiful day to drive across Scotland from west to east.
SCOTLAND – St. Andrews
My friend John striking a pose on the 18th fairway at St. Andrews Old Course.
ITALY – Amalfi
ITALY – Ravello
The second time I’ve ever brought a tuxedo to Europe. I attended a wedding at Villa Cimbrone and it was amazing!
ITALY – Rome, Lazio
I caught the sunbeams just right in St. Peter’s.
ITALY – Viaggio, Tuscany
Charlotte and I spent the first two nights of our vacation here at
Agriturismo Savernano.
ITALY – Volterra, Tuscany
We happend upon a festival on July 31, 2010. Approaching midnight , the main square was filled with people lighting hot air filled luminaries. At midnight they sent them on their way into the night.
ITALY – Riomaggiore, Luguria
It has become a tradition that Charlotte and I spend a week at the
“Cinque Terre Residences” in August.
This year we ate out once and then I cooked the rest of the nights.
Thanks for taking a look at my photo gallery. Remember, you can join me in most any of theses destinations by taking a David McGuffin tour. Check out what I’ve got to offer at https://davidmcguffin.com.
I’ve been calling Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland my alpine home for the past 15 years. Tucked away and hidden from the mega-tourism of Switzerland, Lauterbrunnen is a sleepy little jumping off point for savvy outdoor enthusiasts looking for a laid-back village with lots of outdoor recreation.
I began my day by taking the lift from Lauterbrunnen to Grüutschalp, a ten-minute ride and elevation gain of more than 4000 feet. From Grütschalp, I walked on a fairly easy trail for 1.5 hours to the resort village of Mürren. It is loaded with swanky alpine hotels designed for skiers and outdoor enthusiasts. Mürren is an alpine village with no vehicular traffic (except farm and service equipment) and requires a lift and a train to reach its hotels and chalets. I believe it is a bit on the expensive side, but I enjoy the ambiance for lunch and poking around.
From Mürren, I hiked downhill to the quaint farming village of Gimmelwald . Up above town, I found a comfy bench with a grand view of the glacial mountains where sat and I updated my journal and finally, laid down for a peaceful nap. Later, I took the cable car back down to the valley floor and walked along the river to Lauterbrunnen. 
