Candice Brown, a former student, has family who live in France. Luckily, Candice and I were able to coordinate our travel schedules so that we could meet up in Lyon, France.
Preplanning is the key to getting a seat on one of Europe’s busiest trains. I booked my TGV ticket online, several days in advance (visit http://www.voyages-sncf.com, choose your route, and pay by credit card online). The journey was a breeze once at the Paris Lyon TGV station. I zipped through the French countryside at lightning speed and was in Lyon in just over two hours.
Candice, our friend Abby, and her grandfather Jean-Paul met me at the station in Lyon. We hurried back to Jean-Paul’s home where I met Chantelle, his wife. After a little visit, we were off to explore the town.
Starting at the Cathedral, on the highest summit, we made our way downhill through woody parks, medieval cobbled streets, the Renaissance city, and finally the 20th century “new” town. It was a delight to have Jean-Paul and Chantelle as my private guides. I felt so special that they would devote a day to showing me around their hometown. An added bonus was visiting with Candice and Abby, not in Orange Park, but in France.
One of the highlights was our dining experience. The Restaurant Les Adrets (here is the TripAdvisor link) was located in the heart of the old medieval town and seemed to draw attention from only the locals. Jean-Paul told me that reservations were essential, and luckily, he had booked us a table! There was no menu and very few choices, but that did not matter, because the food was divine!
For my starter, I had toasted bread loaded with greens, olive oil, and fresh anchovies. It was amazing! A funny thing: when I asked Jean-Paul how to say “anchovy” in French, he laughed and said, “It is a French word, so it is anchovy.”
I’ve had a lot of salmon in the past few weeks, but Restaurant Les Adrets’s salmon plat was the best so far. It came perfectly prepared and fresh from the sea. The local wine from “Cote du Rhone” was presented in a traditional “pot” or glass bottle, only available in the Lyon area. The bottle had several inches of glass at the bottom. I speculated the bottles were made that way so that they would not tip over after a bottle or two!
Later, we returned to Jean-Paul’s and Chantelle’s home where we sat, talked, and visited. This was the best! I picked up so much about French culture, protocol, and customs. Like any grandparents, they were proud of their grandchildren and their immersion into their (French) culture. I am truly thankful to have had an opportunity to experience Lyon with the perfect hosts in Jean-Paul and Chantelle.
Belém is located about 6 km west of Lisbon, on the Tagus River. Its name is derived from the Portuguese word for Bethlehem. There are four main sights: the Belém Tower, the Jerónimos Monastery, the Monument to the Discoveries and the Belém Pastry Shop.
The Jerónimos Monastary and Church of Santa Maria occupy a lot of ground just north of the river. Both the interior and exterior are decorated in a flamboyant style known as Manueline Gothic. This is very ornate with many nautical themed icons. The explorer, Vasco de Gama is buried here in the church.
The Belém Tower is also constructed in the Manueline Gothic style. The tower was part of the fortifications built to protect the monastery and the river. Originally, it sat in the middle of the river, but over the ages, the river banks have receded almost 400 meters, leaving the tower now at the present river’s edge.
The Monument to the Discoveries was constructed in 1960 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator. It stands on the river’s edge and is about 300 feet tall. There is an elevator in the monument that reaches a platform, providing grand vistas of the area.
There is a shop/restaurant in town that makes the famous Belém pastries. Known as pastel de nata or pastel de Belém, it is believed these were first made before the 18th century by the nuns of the nearby monastery. Nowadays, the famous shop sells these custard-filled, puff pastries hot and fresh out of the oven to thousands of people a day.
Fado in Coimbra is different than that of Lisbon. In Coimbra, Fado centers around the university community and is sung by men dressed in traditional academic capes, robes, and leggings. Like in Lisbon, it is accompanied by classical guitar and a specially tuned Portuguese guitar, but sounds totally different.
My group and I arrive early at A Capella, a small 14th century chapel turned tapas bar and Fado venue. The owner and chief Fado singer were practicing a rock and roll set scheduled for performance at 12 midnight. Luckily, we were able to preorder a set dinner menu of lamb or fish.
The actual Fado began at 9:20 p.m. and continued in four-song sets until midnight. We all enjoyed the performances of the male soloist and guitar ensemble.
The food was good and by the end of the evening, the chapel was packed with 80-100 people drinking, eating and enjoying the Fado experience.
For me, one of the delights of European travel is purchasing something “over there” that is not available at home. The Magnum Ice Cream Bar is one such item that has kept my European sweet tooth satisfied for many years. People who have traveled with me know of my passion for the Magnum Classic and how a tour is not complete until I’ve introduced the pleasure to all.
Unfortunately, my Magnum passion changed last week while I was visiting Madrid. Sitting at an outdoor table on the Plaza Major, I began getting a barrage of emails and texts from back home in Florida. At first, I thought an emergency must have happened with my family; however, my mind was soon put to at ease as I read the messages. It seems that the Magnum Bar had made its way across the Atlantic Ocean to Wal-Mart and Target freezer cases everywhere. My friends were notifying me with excited messages so that I could rush right out and get one. Little did they know I did not accept the news with their anticipated enthusiasm.
You see, I think there is something almost sacred about the exclusivity of certain products available in Europe, but not in the USA. On every trip to Europe, I once looked forward to my first Magnum Bar of the tour and my last Magnum Bar of the tour. I enjoyed reliving the first moment a rookie experiences a Magnum when biting through that rich dark chocolate into the creamy ice-cold center. I especially enjoyed the moment when my tour group members would come back to the bus and describe their afternoon Magnum Bar adventures. It’s a sad thing to think those experiences will no longer be a part of my tours!
However, while sitting there in Spain lamenting the non-exclusivity of the now “world-traveled” Magnum Bar, I began thinking of all the special products that no matter how hard someone tried, would never make it to the USA. That made me happy! So, from now on, I’ll use my Magnum Bar story to illustrate the need to “go local” and experience unique products only available in situ, at the location of origin.
What about you? What are your thoughts about the downfall of the Magnum Bar? Consider sharing a memory or experience only available “at the location” and which can never be mass produced and exported to the world.
The Mercato de San Miguel has long served as central Madrid’s one-stop “farmer’s” market. I first visited here years ago when locals dropped in for fresh ingredients for a full meal. Here one can find fresh and smelly fish, harry legs of Iberian ham, countless bottles of wine, fresh and squeaky-clean vegetables and all the extras as well.
Arriving at the Mercato de San Miguel this year I found an enhanced market with the new additions of many vendors selling tapas to eat right away. Last night we decided to have a movable feast of tapas and drinks at the market. About forty of us descended on the market at 7:00 pm and munched and drank our way through dinner in a four hour moveable feast. What a great way to experience Madrid and get right into the heartbeat of the local culture.
Vivian found what she dubbed “the most amazing sweets ever.” A warm center of caramel surrounded by puff pastry and loaded with chocolate and cream topping.
Kayla and friends found more desserts that were pretty amazing as well.
My friend Chris and I enjoyed a plate of french fries at the hotel bar before we went to the market. Once there, he did not realize I was paying for their tapas hunting! Finally, with money in hand, Chris found somethings a little better than that plate of fries.
For 2,3,or 4 euros you can get a tasty selection of OLIVES. I enjoyed olives stuffed with calamari, cheese and ham. They also had one variety that tasted smokey and herbal. The flavor was so intense I could not get enough of them!
The Jamon Iberico is great. There are several varieties ranging in price from 5 to 16 euros per kilo. The best variety is Jamon Bellota which is thinly sliced from the leg of a black Iberian pig fed only a diet of acorns and allowed to roam freely. You have to purchase at least 500 grams (about 9 euros) which will feed 4 people.
The cheesemonger’s kiosk was a popular place. For about 6 euros I asked the vendor to assembly six selections of her favorite cheeses. I don’t know what I got, but all of them were tasty! I chose one variety on my own and boy did I make a mistake. It was a mixture of sheep and goat cheese and when I pointed to it, the vendor wrinkled her nose in disgust. I don’t know why I decided to get it anyway!
So, if you happen to find yourself in Madrid make a point to enjoy and experience the Mercato de San Miguel. It’s on Calle Major between Puerta del Sol and the Royal Palace, just around the corner from Plaza Major.
Charlotte and I are vacationing in the Cinque Terre. We love this place and seem to come back year after year. There are many places to stay while in the “five villages,” but we enjoy Riomaggiore the best. Several years ago I discovered The Cinqueterre Residence, a simple, family-owned and modern group of rooms and apartments on a hill above the town center. Our apartment has a simple dual rangetop, frig, microwave and comes stocked with pots, pans and dishes.
So, last night I cooked a meal, and got Charlotte to shoot some video… here is my PRIMI PIATTI course.
Preplanning is the key to getting a seat on one of Europe’s busiest trains. I booked my TGV ticket online, several days in advance (visit http://www.voyages-sncf.com, choose your route, and pay by credit card online). The journey was a breeze once at the Paris Lyon TGV station. I zipped through the French countryside at lightning speed and was in Lyon in just over two hours.
One of the highlights was our dining experience. The Restaurant Les Adrets (here is the TripAdvisor link) was located in the heart of the old medieval town and seemed to draw attention from only the locals. Jean-Paul told me that reservations were essential, and luckily, he had booked us a table! There was no menu and very few choices, but that did not matter, because the food was divine!
