Today we explore St. Nicholas Cathedral in Galway, Ireland. The Cathedral was constructed approximately fifty years ago and blends Roman and Gothic styles. Its architectural blend and the inclusion of American Red Wood and contemporary stain glass make it a unique European wonder. A stroll around Galway is not complete without a visit to this city landmark.
Last summer, Charlotte and I spent a lot of time traveling around Ireland. While making our rounds, Charlotte developed a guide for shopping on the Emerald Isle.
CHARLOTTE’S ESSENTIAL IRELAND SHOPPING SUGGESTIONS
For those of you that know me, you know I enjoy to shop! I’m often asked, what should I buy or where should I shop? I’ve put together this short guide of shops I’ve found and things to buy. By no means do I list every shopping venue! In fact, I only have a limited amount of time to devote to one of my favorite pastimes and I certainly don’t want to miss out on the cultural and historical aspects of visiting any city. Hopefully, this brief guide will give you some idea of what to expect when shopping in some of the spots you will visit while on your tour of Ireland. If you get a chance, send me a note to let me know what you found at charlotte@davidmcguffin.com.
Before I share my shopping suggestions, here are a few tips for shopping that I have found out the hard way!
• If you are going to charge your purchase, ask the sales person to charge your card in Euros, not in US dollars. Why? Generally, your credit card company is going to convert the Euros using a better exchange rate than what you will be charged by the vendor. Find out what your bank charges. When I use my debit card, the credit union only charges me .1%. That’s only 1 cent for every dollar spent and they use the exchange rate on the day I make the purchase. If you don’t tell them up front, the vendor is most likely going to convert the charge to US dollars as they are making money off of the exchange. I had one vendor tell me that their machine only allowed the US dollars exchange and I didn’t have any cash. I was stuck with paying 3.5 %!
• Always ask for a tax free receipt if you are spending at least 30 Euros (I think that is the minimum purchase price in Ireland.) There are various ways for you to get the Value Added Tax (VAT) back and the vendor will be able to tell you how to conduct the transactions. The new way is to use a card called the FEXCO Horizon card, but not all vendors will use this method. Just make sure to ask when you make the purchase. Otherwise, they may not offer the receipts that you will need to claim the tax when you leave the country.
• Make a list of what you are buying and what it costs. It will make filling out your US Customs form much easier on the day you return to the US when you can’t remember everything you bought!
Galway
Galway has great shopping. You will find most of the local crafts and souvenir shopping in the pedestrian only streets. The main street changes names and there are several cross streets, but David can get you there. There are several shops with wonderful wool items and hand knit sweaters actually made in Ireland. I particularly like a shop called Magee’s which has high end hats, sweaters, scarves, etc. It’s a little more expensive but is higher quality. There are quite a few of these types of shops around, and sometimes you can get a really good deal when they put things on clearance.
For Pandora bracelets, you will find the Pandora shop on Williams Gate close to Eyre Square. All you need to do is continue past the pedestrian only area main street and it is on your left.
If you are lucky enough to be in Galway on Saturday, there is an open air market on the streets surrounding St. Nicholas church. There you will find local craftsmen and vendors with jewelry, hand knit items, and great food, just to name a few of the items! It is supposedly open in the summer on Sunday as well, but I haven’t verified that.
There is also a mall of sorts that has various shops (more for the locals to shop in, less touristy items) which ends with a two-story Dunnes, the Irish version of Wal-Mart. The basement floor has a grocery store where you can purchase a snack or picnic lunch. If you are walking towards Eyre Square, the entrance is on your right. It is called the Eyre Square Shopping Center on Williams Gate.
Dublin
Dublin is a huge city and there are a lot of places to shop. I certainly haven’t been to them all, but these are just a few of my favorite stops:
Grafton Street – This is a pedestrian only street and is where most of the high end shopping in Dublin can be found. The stores on this street are mostly where the locals would shop. There is also a mall located at the end of Grafton Street near St. Stephens Green. I didn’t have an opportunity to check it out, so I don’t know what it has to offer.
The Pandora shop can be found right on Grafton Street. It is on the left hand side as you are walking away from Molly Malone towards St. Stephens Green. There is even a Disney Store on the right.
If you are looking for Irish crafts, you will want to walk a few blocks over from Grafton Street. Instead of going to Grafton Street from Trinity College, keep walking down the street that lines Trinity College, which is Nassau Street. There are several shops on that street that I enjoyed. A few of them are: House of Ireland, Kilkenny Crafts Center and Trinity Sweaters. You can also get a bite to eat at the Kilkenny Crafts Center on the second floor. The soup and brown bread are a really good choice!
If you are looking for all things Irish in the way of souvenirs, head to O’Connell street to a shop called Carroll’s. There are several Carroll’s around town but this one must be their biggest location. It is near the big General Post Office near the tall spire.
Also located on O’Connell’s is a store called Clery’s. It reminds me a lot of Macy’s and Dillards. It is a big department store. I enjoyed browsing just to see the different styles.
Marcs and Spencers (M&S) is another big department store. You can find one on Grafton Street. It reminds me of a Penney’s or Sears. There is another department store called Pennys but I did not get a chance to check it out. It is on O’Connell street across from Clery’s.
Kilkenny
Kilkenny shopping has mostly shops that cater to the locals, rather than tourists, although they do have the Kilkenny Crafts Center. There are two snack shops there, one on the second floor and the other on the main street level, both of which have free Wi-Fi. This shop tends to be a little pricey but they have some beautiful items. It is right across from the Castle. I also saw quite a few antique shops, if you like to shop for that sort of thing.
Kilkenny also has a Dunne’s.
Dingle
Dingle is one of my all time favorite Irish towns to visit! And not just for the shopping, although it seems to have some of the best! There are quite a few art galleries, as well as shops that handle hand made knit items, woolen clothing, hats, scarves, and beautiful jewelry. You will also find a lot of shops that carry Ireland souvenirs. All you have to do is walk the three main streets in town to have a great time!
I didn’t find any Pandora beads here, but I did find the Irish equivalent! They are called Tara something (sorry! I’m having a senior moment and can’t remember the rest of the name) but they will fit Pandora bracelets and are sterling silver. All of the beads are Irish themed. I bought one that represents the Blasket Islands – it’s a charm in the shape of a heart with the round scroll on it, along with a dangle of the three men carrying the traditional boat. I bought it in a shop called John Weldon Jewellers. I saw these in Kilkenny and Dublin as well.
One shop on the harbor street has fine Irish linens. They have some beautiful sachets, table cloths, pillow cases, Christening gowns, etc. I always love to go in this shop and browse.
Doolin
Doolin is tiny but has several fun shops. There are two shopping areas, both of which are all in about a one block area. The shops in the low part of town carry the traditional Irish sweaters, scarves, hats, souvenirs, etc. I found a sweater for 18 Euro less than what I paid for it in Dublin in these shops!
The other little shopping area in the high part of town appears to have some fun shops. I haven’t had a chance to check them out. They look nice but I can’t vouch for them. I always run out of time before I can get to them!
Cliffs of Moher
Even though this is just an attraction, there is a great gift shop inside of the exhibits. They also have several shops located near the parking area which carry more souvenirs, crafts and jewelry. Don’t let shopping get in the way of seeing the Cliffs! While the shopping is good, you don’t want to miss the breathtaking views. Save the shopping for last.
Finding a suitable and quality dining spot in Venice has always been a challenge for me. There are countless restaurants, bars, and finger food joints, but I have not run across anything that just makes me want to go to Venice to dine. I think the problem is that Venice is a tourist’s town and many of the restaurants along the “tourist path” put out an “ok” product knowing that most of their customers will never return to eat again in Venice.
However, there are a few “gems” I have discovered in my 30+ years of visiting Venice. Here are my top picks:
ACCADEMIA FOSCARINI BAR AND PIZZERIA –
In the summer months, VENICE can be gruling. Hot, steamy, crowded with tourists, and very little air conditioning often makes me want to get through the tourist sights and then seek refuge. Located on the Adriatic Sea, in a lagoon loaded with marshy islands, it is no wonder Venice is either hot, humid, or wet and soggy. However, even with all that, I love the place. Belgium has its “Venice of the North” and France has its “little Venices” in Colmar and Strasbourg, yet nothing can compare the real deal. Napolean once call the Piazza San Marco the “drawing room of Europe,” and it is no wonder thousands flock to it each day to see (and maybe experience) it’s charm.
In the next few weeks, I’d like to introduce you to “my” Venice. I’ll include all the “biggies” such as the Basicila San Marco, the Doges Palace, the Rialto Bridge, Accademia, and others. But, what I really want to do is show you Venice, not as a tourist sight, but as a destination to be savored and experienced.
A Little History…
Venice is a tourist attraction in itself. Even if there were no museums, no churches, and no entertainment the lagoon-locked city would attract tourists just for its character. Founded more than thirteen hundred years ago, the collection of boggy islands became a refuge for local tribes fleeing the invading Franks. Protected by marshlands and several kilometers of water, it provided safety and peace of mind to those who inhabited the area.
Settlers eventually began driving piling into the bog to provide support for buildings. The marshland was transformed from a swamp to an island built of pilings and wood, canals served as the streets, and boats served as carriages. In A.D. 811 a Doge (from the Latin dux meaning leader) was elected and Venice was on its way to becoming a world power. In 828 the relics of Saint Mark were brought from Alexandria and he became the town’s patron saint.
Several councils designed to limit the Doges’ power supervised the role of the Doge. The Grand Council developed the laws; the Senate was responsible for foreign affairs, the economy, and the military; and the Council of Ten was responsible for security. The Council of Ten maintained a network of secret police and informants, which, created an air of mistrust but ensured control of the city.
The Middle Ages saw Venice rise to become a world power. Being strategically located on an important trade route between the Middle East and Europe, Venice seized the opportunity to regulate trade and shipping routes. In effect, the Venetians became the “middlemen” between the economies of the East and West. Cargo of precious spices, silk, and jewels all passed through Venice and merchants became very rich.
By 1450 Venice was at its zenith, being both a political and religious power in Italy. Venice maintained its independence from the Pope, the Holy Roman Empire, and kingdoms to the north by maintaining a powerful army and navy, as well as forming alliances with neighboring kingdoms. The late 15th century saw the discovery of the Americas and new trade routes. Consequentially, a decrease in trade through Venice led to a slow decline of the Republic. Finally, in 1797, Napoleon Bonaparte entered and abolished Venice’s constitution and dissolved the Republic. Later Napoleon ceded the city to Austria. It was not until 1866 that Venice and the Venato were united with Italy.
Since the early 1800’s Venice’s population has dwindled. Once commanding the attention of worldwide trade, now Venice delights in being an enchanting destination and on the must-see list of tourists worldwide. Today it’s the home to about 65,000 people living in the old city center. Recent decades have seen the young people leave for a bigger and more active life in the cities of Italy. Many have forsaken their traditional family ties, leaving an older generation to live out their lives in Venice. Just a few blocks off the San Marco and Rialto tourist route, visitors can find local neighborhoods filled with laundry flapping in the breeze, women chatting from their windows high above the alleys, and gentlemen visiting at the local square. Most visitors to Venice miss this intimate look into the city’s culture. Don’t let it pass you by, get out and explore!
(A couple of my favorite dining spots are coming up in the next post).
A couple of weeks ago I struck off for Rome for what I now call my tapas tour. Tapas are little bite-sized snacks meant to be eaten with toothpicks or your fingers. Often tapas bars serve up twenty or so different selections meant to give a tasty sample and whet your appetite.
This tour itinerary morphed into a sampling tour consisting of three countries and nine destinations, all in seven days! Not the kind of tour I usually design, but how could I help it? Originally, I planned the tour to begin in Tuscany and finish up in Barcelona, a lot of bus travel, but very doable. Seven days on that route would have given us a leisurely itinerary along the Mediterranean coast.
Then the problems began, first the airline changed the routing to Rome and ultimately departing from Madrid. It made little sense to arrive in Rome, but not “experience” Rome. So, I altered day one to include a “tornado” tour of the Roman Forum and Colosseum, plus a look at St. Peter’s Basilica. As it turned out, the arriving flight from the USA was delayed by two hours, turning our time in Rome to a mere three hours.
We had a peaceful drive up to Tuscany, as most people took a chance to sleep and shake off the jet lag. Arriving in Volterra, we were off the bus and in our hotel by 6:00 p.m., pizza dinner at 7:30, and finished up by 9:00.
The next day was delightful; this is one part of my original plan that did come together. We spent the entire day in Volterra, a place I call my favorite Tuscany hill town. There was a wine tasting at La Vena di Vino which was a big hit for the group. But, mostly, everyone just relaxed in town. That night we dined in gourmet style at Ristorante Del Duca. A smashing success!
The next day, we were on the bus and out of town by 8:30. This, I knew, was the longest day of the tour. We visited Florence, where I conducted a rapid walking tour that took in the San Lorenzo Market, the Duomo, Piazza Della Signoria, and the Ponte Vecchio. The weather did not help matters. About halfway through our walk, the heavens opened up with a torrential downpour, soaking almost everyone in the group.
Later, back on the bus, we all settled in for the six-hour drive to Nice, France. Little did I know this would begin the worst “bus driver” experience of my career. Episode two coming soon…
This morning I loaded a group of 41 faithful tour members on to a bus, one last time, and off we went to Madrid’s airport. Our adventure began one week ago, way down in Rome. During the last seven days, we’ve put a lot of kilometers between here and Rome. For the most part, the tour went very well, although, there were a few “hitches” along the way. But, I’ll save those stories for another post.
At the moment, I want to share my “tour recovery” story here in Madrid. You might imagine it would be a bit stressful leading a large group of American tourist around Europe. There are tons of things to think about, plan, consider, and adjust everyday. My wife puts it this way, “when David’s leading a tour, he has to be ‘Mister Entertainment’ and on the ball 24/7.” We both learned a long time ago it is not a “vacation” for us when we are leading a group tour.
So, after getting the group checked-in and through security at the airport, I was ready for a “down” day of recovery. I hopped on the Metro and returned to central Madrid. It is Saturday, and the town was slowly waking up. When I popped out of the Metro and onto Plaza de España, it was filled with joggers, dogs, and older residents enjoying the warm sunshine while visiting on park benches. I took a stroll over to Puerta del Sol, and finally to Plaza Major. It was wonderful, just to wander, not having to worry if my group was in tow or feeling the need to count to 41 for yet another time.
After taking some photos in Plaza Major, I found an outdoor cafe, ordered a cafe con leche and took in the scene. By now, it was approaching 11:00 and the square was coming to life. The silly costumed entertainers and vendors were getting dressed in hidden alcoves, waiters were drying the dew off tables, dressing them in crisp table clothes, and tour groups were just beginning to flood in to the square.
There was an American family sitting two tables away from me, and the two teen-aged boys had fried eggs and bacon on their plate. After ten days eating breakfasts of chewy baguettes, jam, cold cuts, and pastries, this looked pretty good. So, I got some myself and enjoyed a traditional USA breakfast on the grandest square in Spain!
After writing in my journal and posting some photos to Facebook, I was surprised to find it was after 2:00 p.m. I think I’ll pack up my things, go back to the hotel, and take a siesta!
