by David McGuffin | Jul 21, 2011 | Eating & Drinking, Experiencing Europe, Restaurant Reviews
I’ve grown to enjoy cooking over the years. I remember my first crack at it was when my wife traveled on a six-week business trip to Washington. My children were in college and out of the house, so I was left at home to “fend for myself.” So… I cooked.
It’s said that the best way to learning something is to study hard and practice the art. I’ve done a lot of both. Consequently, now that I’ve been at it for more than a decade, I’ve got a pretty good concept of what tastes good and more importantly, why it tastes good.
Years ago, I began taking my students on “educational” tours to Europe. These tours were organized by huge travel companies that packed a bus and ran them through Europe as cheaply as possible. There were many things I did not like about these early tour experiences, but for now, I’ll concentrate on eating and food choices.
In my experience, a typical meal on a student educational tour consisted of weak pasta or salad, a mystery meat cutlet, French fries, and a fruit or ice cream cup. Getting a variation of this day after day simply was not my idea of European cuisine. It certainly did not match the grand dining experiences of which I had so often read in books and magazines. On many occasions, I remember returning to the USA and rushing to the first “American” restaurant just to get a good meal. My students’ first stop was often McDonald’s! You can read my account of these early days of eating in Europe at my blog entry titled: “I always came home hungry.”
With this in mind, it is no wonder that quality dining experiences are an integral element in my “Exploring Europe” travel philosophy. For me, eating is a cultural experience no less important than seeing the sights, visiting a museum or chatting up a local. It brings the locale to life and presents an authentic and literal “taste” of the destination. I’ve developed an uncanny knack for finding good places to eat. Most often these are far off the “tourist” radar and feature fresh local cuisine, passionately prepared and served by a caring chef. However, I’m not opposed to breaking away from a traditional menu, of say, meat, and potatoes in Ireland, and supporting an eclectic chef’s fusion-style menu.
In my next few blog entries, I will share my passions of European travel, cooking, and dining. I hope it makes your taste buds tingle!
by David McGuffin | Jul 15, 2011 | Culture & Customs, David's Journal, Destinations, Eating & Drinking, Experiencing Europe, Restaurant Reviews
Candice Brown, a former student, has family who live in France. Luckily, Candice and I were able to coordinate our travel schedules so that we could meet up in Lyon, France.
Preplanning is the key to getting a seat on one of Europe’s busiest trains. I booked my TGV ticket online, several days in advance (visit http://www.voyages-sncf.com, choose your route, and pay by credit card online). The journey was a breeze once at the Paris Lyon TGV station. I zipped through the French countryside at lightning speed and was in Lyon in just over two hours.
Candice, our friend Abby, and her grandfather Jean-Paul met me at the station in Lyon. We hurried back to Jean-Paul’s home where I met Chantelle, his wife. After a little visit, we were off to explore the town.
Starting at the Cathedral, on the highest summit, we made our way downhill through woody parks, medieval cobbled streets, the Renaissance city, and finally the 20th century “new” town. It was a delight to have Jean-Paul and Chantelle as my private guides. I felt so special that they would devote a day to showing me around their hometown. An added bonus was visiting with Candice and Abby, not in Orange Park, but in France.
One of the highlights was our dining experience. The Restaurant Les Adrets (here is the TripAdvisor link) was located in the heart of the old medieval town and seemed to draw attention from only the locals. Jean-Paul told me that reservations were essential, and luckily, he had booked us a table! There was no menu and very few choices, but that did not matter, because the food was divine!
For my starter, I had toasted bread loaded with greens, olive oil, and fresh anchovies. It was amazing! A funny thing: when I asked Jean-Paul how to say “anchovy” in French, he laughed and said, “It is a French word, so it is anchovy.”
I’ve had a lot of salmon in the past few weeks, but Restaurant Les Adrets’s salmon plat was the best so far. It came perfectly prepared and fresh from the sea. The local wine from “Cote du Rhone” was presented in a traditional “pot” or glass bottle, only available in the Lyon area. The bottle had several inches of glass at the bottom. I speculated the bottles were made that way so that they would not tip over after a bottle or two!
Later, we returned to Jean-Paul’s and Chantelle’s home where we sat, talked, and visited. This was the best! I picked up so much about French culture, protocol, and customs. Like any grandparents, they were proud of their grandchildren and their immersion into their (French) culture. I am truly thankful to have had an opportunity to experience Lyon with the perfect hosts in Jean-Paul and Chantelle.
Lyon- Candice, David, and Abby
Candice and Abby, thanks for showing me around!
by David McGuffin | Jun 23, 2011 | David's Journal, Destinations, Experiencing Europe
Sixty kilometers southwest of Toledo stands a vast and wide-open plain on which is planted grains, olives and grapes. If, while visiting Toledo, you have a car, it is well worth a trip to visit the small town of Consuegra. It is here you’ll find the famous “Windmills of Consuegra.”
I’ve often seen images of these windmills dotting the pages of “La Mancha” travel articles, but until now, have never had an opportunity to visit. There is a swift new “AutoVia” super-highway leaving Toledo and traveling right by Consuegra. By car, it takes about 40 minutes.
Approaching Consuegra from the north, you can see the windmills from a distance, across the plains.
It was a bit of a challenge trying to locate the road up to the windmills. My GPS was useless, but we found signs pointing us to the Castello and the windmills to be helpful.
The windmills became famous in the 16th century when Don Quixote was first published (BTW – I read somewhere that Don Quixote is the second most read book of all time, after the Bible). These windmills were introduced by the “Caballeros Sanjuanistas,” who brought these machines to help mill grain. They were handed down from father to son. There are still three operating windmills, but only for tourism. All fell out of use in the 1980’s when less expensive forms of milling were introduced.
by David McGuffin | Jun 21, 2011 | Destinations, Experiencing Europe, Hotel Reviews, Restaurant Reviews
My friends and I stayed in Segovia last night. A small medieval town of about 60,000, it offered a stress-free beginning to my adventures in Spain and Portugal. An added plus is that it is at an elevation of about 3,000 feet so the weather was very cool and pleasant.
My GPS was useless in the narrow cobbled streets, but the signage was pretty good at directing me to the main plaza. I learned a long time ago not to drive into a medieval town without first walking it. So, we parked in the modern underground parking lot and I walked the pedestrian-only streets to my hotel. Then, I got in the car and drove the route which I was instructed by the hotel staff. If you are interested in the mistakes I’ve made and how I learned to first walk, then drive read my blog entry “Too Much Room for the Road.”
Infanta Isabel Hotel proved to be a good find. Located on the pedestrian-only Plaza Major, we found a friendly reception staff, clean and updated rooms, and a perfect location from which to explore the town.
One of the main attractions in Segovia is the Roman aqueduct. At one time, it carried water over nine miles from the Río Frío to the Roman fort in Segovia. Today, it is amazing to see a remaining section of the aqueduct that is 2,500 feet long and 100 feet high. Roman engineers and workers constructed this section 2,000 years ago out of 20,000 precisely cut, granite stones, which were stacked without the aid of any mortar.
The Cathedral sits right on Plaza Major and dominates the skyline. Since construction began in the Renaissance (1525-1768) it contains a variety of architectural styles, mainly Flamboyant Gothic. However, the church is capped with a dome more closely related to late Renaissance and Baroque church buildings.
I took a stroll from the aqueduct to the Alcazar, trying to get a “feel” for the town’s layout. About 8:30 p.m., the place came alive with locals and tourists taking to the streets for the paseo, the nightly stroll and visit time.
This being our first day in Europe, we were hungry and ready for bed by 8:00 p.m. However, people tend to get a late start on the evening in Segovia (and most of Spain). By 9:30 p.m. we could hold out no longer and decided to eat at “Caesars,” the restaurant associated with our hotel. Dinner was delightful, sitting on the main square and watching the “town” go by. I had a fine meal of gazpacho and a local specialty, roasted suckling pig.
by David McGuffin | Mar 28, 2011 | Destinations, Experiencing Europe, Uncategorized
I’ve been calling Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland my alpine home for the past 15 years. Tucked away and hidden from the mega-tourism of Switzerland, Lauterbrunnen is a sleepy little jumping off point for savvy outdoor enthusiasts looking for a laid-back village with lots of outdoor recreation.
I’ve spent the day wandering around the alpine terrain and villages above Lauterbrunnen. The entire region is connected by a series of railways, trams, lifts, and funiculars making transportation a breeze. One could effortlessly experience a lot of the countryside by taking public transportation, but for me, I want to get out for some exercise. I’m visiting here in March and it appears the ski season is still going strong. Unfortunately, I never tried snow skiing and I’m too old to begin now, so I’ll trust my adventures to my own two feet and get out for a good hike.
I began my day by taking the lift from Lauterbrunnen to Grüutschalp, a ten-minute ride and elevation gain of more than 4000 feet. From Grütschalp, I walked on a fairly easy trail for 1.5 hours to the resort village of Mürren. It is loaded with swanky alpine hotels designed for skiers and outdoor enthusiasts. Mürren is an alpine village with no vehicular traffic (except farm and service equipment) and requires a lift and a train to reach its hotels and chalets. I believe it is a bit on the expensive side, but I enjoy the ambiance for lunch and poking around.
After touring the town, top to bottom, I decided to have lunch at an outdoor café with a view of the Alps. I ordered raclette, which is a sinfully delicious mixture of melted Swiss cheese, boiled potatoes, pearl onions, Gherkin pickles, and a few garnishes. Wash this rich and gooey dish down with a flask of the local brew and you’ve got a tasty meal.
From Mürren, I hiked downhill to the quaint farming village of Gimmelwald . Up above town, I found a comfy bench with a grand view of the glacial mountains where sat and I updated my journal and finally, laid down for a peaceful nap. Later, I took the cable car back down to the valley floor and walked along the river to Lauterbrunnen.
This was a `great day, but I’ve experienced many such days in the Lauterbrunnen Valley. In the past hour, I’ve enjoyed broad sweeping alpine vistas from my hotel balcony while putting the finishing touches on this blog entry. Now, it is getting dark, and I am getting cold. I believe we have the two Swiss favorites of fondue and rösti on the menu for dinner. It’s days like this that reminds me of the wonders of exploring Europe!
by David McGuffin | Jan 30, 2011 | Culture & Customs, Destinations, Experiencing Europe
For some reason I am much more aware of fashion when in Siena than in other parts of the world. I don’t know if it’s the allure of
Il Campo, the
passeggiata on
via Banchi di Sopra or maybe just my heighten awareness of people. Regardless the cause, I know I do a lot more people watching when in Siena than in any other place.
Last week I made a whirlwind trip to Italy to lay the groundwork for a new itinerary linking Rome and Tuscany. In four days, I traced the route that my “real tour” would experience in eight days. It was a bit grueling, especially driving from Rome to Volterra on that first day, but with a few stops for an espresso at the Autogrill, I survived.
We arrived in Siena on night three of my “tour.” During the past three days, my tour guide friends, Andy and Mary Ada, had been meticulously combing every detail of this new itinerary. Ditching the rental car and checking into Hotel Chiusarelli was such a relief! No more driving… just walking the medieval streets of Siena.
We went directly to Il Campo, the weather was great so we grabbed a seat at one of the outdoor cafes and ordered lunch. One of the first things I noticed being here “off-season” was the lack of tourists. The huge square was scattered with just a few pods of people enjoying the sun and a picnic lunch. For early January, this warm weather is very uncommon and it seemed that many local folks were out to make the most of it.
Sitting there in the sun enjoying my pasta our conversation turned to the Palio, the famous horse race that occurs on this very square twice in the summer. As I described the event to my friends, I began pointing out the various brackets on the exterior walls around the square meant to attach rickety old wooden bleachers for the thousands who arrive in town for the horse race. In my description, I pointed out what I think is the perfect balcony perch for taking in this magnificent square during the Palio or anytime during the year. You can only access this balcony by way of the bar, discreetly tucked into the building below and if you are not looking for it, you’ll miss it.
After lunch, we went our own way and decided to meet up later for dinner. I poked around Siena’s various contrada neighborhoods hoping to run across some previously undiscovered (for me) little gem of a bar, restaurant or shop. I found many of them, but most importantly, I experienced Siena with only the locals in town. As I said, this was so unlike the heavy tourist traffic in the spring and summer months. Finally, I picked out a place in the market square to return to for dinner.
By now it was late afternoon, as I walked across Il Campo the long shadow from the bell tower stretched nearly all the way across the square. Leaving the sun, the temperature dropped ten degrees as I entered the main pedestrian streets known as via Banchi di Sopra. Suddenly I was among more people than I had seen all day! It was as if all of Siena had suddenly come out to take a stroll and visit with one another. I had walked right into the daily ritual known in Italy as the passeggiata, or the slow walk.
I dug out my camera and began snapping photos because I realized every woman was wearing some version of knee-high boots. There were all styles and colors ranging from swanky black leather to more casual thigh-high suede leather ones with fringe. I’ve included a few of the photos I snapped just so you can get an idea.
Big Boots & Little Kids
boot boots
Also, notice the men… many are wearing stylish shiny quilted jackets with faux-fur collars… something you’d never catch any guy in the USA wearing. Also, notice the white tennis shoes and jeans sported by the guys. That struck me as odd because I’ve always preached not to wear white running/tennis shoes because that screams “American tourist” to everyone. Well, these shoes were not exactly our version of tennis shoes, but pretty close.
So, foot fashions are changing… be on the lookout for tall boots and designer tennis shoes coming to a shopping mall near you… and don’t forget to pick up your faux-fur collared men’s jackets!
Ciao from Siena!
-David
P.S. Click here for another one of my “fashion” epiphanies in Siena.
2 more entries about hanging out on Il Campo:
Fashion in Siena
Camping out on Il Campo!
With this in mind, it is no wonder that quality dining experiences are an integral element in my “Exploring Europe” travel philosophy. For me, eating is a cultural experience no less important than seeing the sights, visiting a museum or chatting up a local. It brings the locale to life and presents an authentic and literal “taste” of the destination. I’ve developed an uncanny knack for finding good places to eat. Most often these are far off the “tourist” radar and feature fresh local cuisine, passionately prepared and served by a caring chef. However, I’m not opposed to breaking away from a traditional menu, of say, meat, and potatoes in Ireland, and supporting an eclectic chef’s fusion-style menu.
