My friends and I stayed in Segovia last night. A small medieval town of about 60,000, it offered a stress-free beginning to my adventures in Spain and Portugal. An added plus is that it is at an elevation of about 3,000 feet so the weather was very cool and pleasant.
My GPS was useless in the narrow cobbled streets, but the signage was pretty good at directing me to the main plaza. I learned a long time ago not to drive into a medieval town without first walking it. So, we parked in the modern underground parking lot and I walked the pedestrian-only streets to my hotel. Then, I got in the car and drove the route which I was instructed by the hotel staff. If you are interested in the mistakes I’ve made and how I learned to first walk, then drive read my blog entry “Too Much Room for the Road.”
Infanta Isabel Hotel proved to be a good find. Located on the pedestrian-only Plaza Major, we found a friendly reception staff, clean and updated rooms, and a perfect location from which to explore the town.
One of the main attractions in Segovia is the Roman aqueduct. At one time, it carried water over nine miles from the Río Frío to the Roman fort in Segovia. Today, it is amazing to see a remaining section of the aqueduct that is 2,500 feet long and 100 feet high. Roman engineers and workers constructed this section 2,000 years ago out of 20,000 precisely cut, granite stones, which were stacked without the aid of any mortar.
The Cathedral sits right on Plaza Major and dominates the skyline. Since construction began in the Renaissance (1525-1768) it contains a variety of architectural styles, mainly Flamboyant Gothic. However, the church is capped with a dome more closely related to late Renaissance and Baroque church buildings.
I took a stroll from the aqueduct to the Alcazar, trying to get a “feel” for the town’s layout. About 8:30 p.m., the place came alive with locals and tourists taking to the streets for the paseo, the nightly stroll and visit time.
This being our first day in Europe, we were hungry and ready for bed by 8:00 p.m. However, people tend to get a late start on the evening in Segovia (and most of Spain). By 9:30 p.m. we could hold out no longer and decided to eat at “Caesars,” the restaurant associated with our hotel. Dinner was delightful, sitting on the main square and watching the “town” go by. I had a fine meal of gazpacho and a local specialty, roasted suckling pig.
I’ve been calling Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland my alpine home for the past 15 years. Tucked away and hidden from the mega-tourism of Switzerland, Lauterbrunnen is a sleepy little jumping off point for savvy outdoor enthusiasts looking for a laid-back village with lots of outdoor recreation.
I’ve spent the day wandering around the alpine terrain and villages above Lauterbrunnen. The entire region is connected by a series of railways, trams, lifts, and funiculars making transportation a breeze. One could effortlessly experience a lot of the countryside by taking public transportation, but for me, I want to get out for some exercise. I’m visiting here in March and it appears the ski season is still going strong. Unfortunately, I never tried snow skiing and I’m too old to begin now, so I’ll trust my adventures to my own two feet and get out for a good hike.
I began my day by taking the lift from Lauterbrunnen to Grüutschalp, a ten-minute ride and elevation gain of more than 4000 feet. From Grütschalp, I walked on a fairly easy trail for 1.5 hours to the resort village of Mürren. It is loaded with swanky alpine hotels designed for skiers and outdoor enthusiasts. Mürren is an alpine village with no vehicular traffic (except farm and service equipment) and requires a lift and a train to reach its hotels and chalets. I believe it is a bit on the expensive side, but I enjoy the ambiance for lunch and poking around.
After touring the town, top to bottom, I decided to have lunch at an outdoor café with a view of the Alps. I ordered raclette, which is a sinfully delicious mixture of melted Swiss cheese, boiled potatoes, pearl onions, Gherkin pickles, and a few garnishes. Wash this rich and gooey dish down with a flask of the local brew and you’ve got a tasty meal.
From Mürren, I hiked downhill to the quaint farming village of Gimmelwald . Up above town, I found a comfy bench with a grand view of the glacial mountains where sat and I updated my journal and finally, laid down for a peaceful nap. Later, I took the cable car back down to the valley floor and walked along the river to Lauterbrunnen.
This was a `great day, but I’ve experienced many such days in the Lauterbrunnen Valley. In the past hour, I’ve enjoyed broad sweeping alpine vistas from my hotel balcony while putting the finishing touches on this blog entry. Now, it is getting dark, and I am getting cold. I believe we have the two Swiss favorites of fondue and rösti on the menu for dinner. It’s days like this that reminds me of the wonders of exploring Europe!
For some reason I am much more aware of fashion when in Siena than in other parts of the world. I don’t know if it’s the allure of Il Campo, the passeggiata on via Banchi di Sopra or maybe just my heighten awareness of people. Regardless the cause, I know I do a lot more people watching when in Siena than in any other place.
Last week I made a whirlwind trip to Italy to lay the groundwork for a new itinerary linking Rome and Tuscany. In four days, I traced the route that my “real tour” would experience in eight days. It was a bit grueling, especially driving from Rome to Volterra on that first day, but with a few stops for an espresso at the Autogrill, I survived.
We arrived in Siena on night three of my “tour.” During the past three days, my tour guide friends, Andy and Mary Ada, had been meticulously combing every detail of this new itinerary. Ditching the rental car and checking into Hotel Chiusarelli was such a relief! No more driving… just walking the medieval streets of Siena.
We went directly to Il Campo, the weather was great so we grabbed a seat at one of the outdoor cafes and ordered lunch. One of the first things I noticed being here “off-season” was the lack of tourists. The huge square was scattered with just a few pods of people enjoying the sun and a picnic lunch. For early January, this warm weather is very uncommon and it seemed that many local folks were out to make the most of it.
Sitting there in the sun enjoying my pasta our conversation turned to the Palio, the famous horse race that occurs on this very square twice in the summer. As I described the event to my friends, I began pointing out the various brackets on the exterior walls around the square meant to attach rickety old wooden bleachers for the thousands who arrive in town for the horse race. In my description, I pointed out what I think is the perfect balcony perch for taking in this magnificent square during the Palio or anytime during the year. You can only access this balcony by way of the bar, discreetly tucked into the building below and if you are not looking for it, you’ll miss it.
After lunch, we went our own way and decided to meet up later for dinner. I poked around Siena’s various contrada neighborhoods hoping to run across some previously undiscovered (for me) little gem of a bar, restaurant or shop. I found many of them, but most importantly, I experienced Siena with only the locals in town. As I said, this was so unlike the heavy tourist traffic in the spring and summer months. Finally, I picked out a place in the market square to return to for dinner.
By now it was late afternoon, as I walked across Il Campo the long shadow from the bell tower stretched nearly all the way across the square. Leaving the sun, the temperature dropped ten degrees as I entered the main pedestrian streets known as via Banchi di Sopra. Suddenly I was among more people than I had seen all day! It was as if all of Siena had suddenly come out to take a stroll and visit with one another. I had walked right into the daily ritual known in Italy as the passeggiata, or the slow walk.
I dug out my camera and began snapping photos because I realized every woman was wearing some version of knee-high boots. There were all styles and colors ranging from swanky black leather to more casual thigh-high suede leather ones with fringe. I’ve included a few of the photos I snapped just so you can get an idea.
Big Boots & Little Kids
boot boots
Also, notice the men… many are wearing stylish shiny quilted jackets with faux-fur collars… something you’d never catch any guy in the USA wearing. Also, notice the white tennis shoes and jeans sported by the guys. That struck me as odd because I’ve always preached not to wear white running/tennis shoes because that screams “American tourist” to everyone. Well, these shoes were not exactly our version of tennis shoes, but pretty close.
So, foot fashions are changing… be on the lookout for tall boots and designer tennis shoes coming to a shopping mall near you… and don’t forget to pick up your faux-fur collared men’s jackets!
Charlotte and I are vacationing in the Cinque Terre. We love this place and seem to come back year after year. There are many places to stay while in the “five villages,” but we enjoy Riomaggiore the best. Several years ago I discovered The Cinqueterre Residence, a simple, family-owned and modern group of rooms and apartments on a hill above the town center. Our apartment has a simple dual rangetop, frig, microwave and comes stocked with pots, pans and dishes.
So, last night I cooked a meal, and got Charlotte to shoot some video… here is my PRIMI PIATTI course.
This week Charlotte and I are exploring new, for us, little niches of Tuscany. Last summer, I met a young couple who told me about an amazing agiturismo in the remote hills of Chianti. Throughout the course of two weeks I ran into Josh and Ramona several times and they continued to rave about where they were staying. So, I tucked that little morsel of information away in hopes that one day I’d get by the area and check it out.
A few weeks ago, when planning our vacation to Italy, I contacted Ramona and after several text messages got the name and location of the agriturismo. So, here we are!
An Agriturismo can broadly be defined as any agriculturally based operation that brings guest/visitors to a farm for a meal or an overnight stay. Many such agriturismi have popped up in Italy in recent years due to a tax break and stipend offered by the Italian government. Over the course of the next three days, we will visit two such farms that cater to guests.
Today we are relaxing at Agriturismo Savernano! This place is a wonderful retreat that makes me want to slow down, relax and do nothing. In fact, that’s what we’ve done all day… simply nothing! The main building is situated on top of a hill commanding a 360-degree vista of the surrounding mountains, fields and little towns. Even now, while writing this, I can hear the 6:00 p.m. bells tolling from the little village of Viaggio in the valley below. The main building contains eight guest’s bedrooms, a dining room, kitchen and private dwelling area for the owners. The architecture is classic Tuscan… red tiled roof, stonewalls with yellow stucco for contrast, exposed timbered trusses, terra cotta tiled wrap-around porches and plenty of shady seating.
The farm is loaded with grape vines and olive trees from which is produced homemade olive oil and Chianti. To top it all off there is an inviting pool with plenty of lounge chairs and umbrellas for those wanting to future while away an afternoon.
The rooms are modern and up-to-date. All have heating and air conditioning, refrigerators, impressive private baths complete with bidet and hair dryer. The towels are first class, thick, big, fluffy and absorbent. The beds are typical Italian… low to the floor, no box springs and very firm.
Now for the best part! The family prepares a simple dinner each night for its guests. Each morning the evening’s dinner menu is posted on a chalkboard in the reception area. Guests must tell the staff if they plan to eat here tonight. I would suggest that you skip any other dinner plans and return straight away to Savernano for a truly simple and typical dinner. Right now it is 7:00 p.m.; I am sitting on the patio typing this blog entry and can, every now and then, get a whiff of roasting garlic, fresh herbs and boiling pasta! I can’t wait to eat!
Last night, we enjoyed two bottles of their own Chianti (€3 per bottle) and a full dinner! The primi piatti was homemade (I said that already, right) Lasagna al forno, made with the freshest pasta I’ve ever eaten. Charlotte said it was so fresh she could taste the eggs! The vegetable sauce was light with just a hint of tomato, basil and garlic. After we devoured our first plate in about three minutes the owner brought us two more! The second course was wild boar (cinghale) stewed in herbs and red wine. It was fork tender and falling off the bone! Accompanying this was the best eggplant parmignano I’ve ever tasted… fresh, lightly battered and sprinkled with just a small amount of cheese. This all was capped off with vin santo and cantucci (biscotti)!
Agriturismo Savernano is about 41 Km south of Florence, just off the A1 autostrada. Rooms go for about €100 a night for a double. The ambiance, atmosphere, pool, rooms and dinner all make this a great experience and a real value.
I was happy to visit with my friend, Hermann Weidenger, at his hotel in Ruette, Austria. After a long day of driving and touring the king’s castles, it was good to see a welcoming smile and familiar face.
Hotel Ernberg-Zum Dorfwirt, is located less than twenty minutes from the castle area in Reutte, Austria. All the rooms are decorated in the traditional Tyrolian style with lots of wood paneling and comfy beds covered with warm duvets. There is not a bad room in the hotel, so visit here with confidence.
Hermann’s hotel restaurant is very popular, so you would do well to get a reservation as soon as you arrive in town. Luckily, we obtained a reservation at 6 p.m. on a Saturday night, during the height of the Christmas season. The meal was wonderful! The only negative was the smoke due to Austria not banning smoking inside.
It seemed that beef was the speciality of the evening, so both Charlotte and I ordered it. I had a filet and Charlotte had a T-bone. Both came with vegetables, french fries and plenty of special homemade pepper sauce. The entire dining experience was great, but jet-lag began to catch up with us half-way through dinner. We skipped desert and were sound asleep in bed before eight o’clock!
My friends and I stayed in Segovia last night. A small medieval town of about 60,000, it offered a stress-free beginning to my adventures in Spain and Portugal. An added plus is that it is at an elevation of about 3,000 feet so the weather was very cool and pleasant.
The Cathedral sits right on Plaza Major and dominates the skyline. Since construction began in the Renaissance (1525-1768) it contains a variety of architectural styles, mainly Flamboyant Gothic. However, the church is capped with a dome more closely related to late Renaissance and Baroque church buildings.
I took a stroll from the aqueduct to the Alcazar, trying to get a “feel” for the town’s layout. About 8:30 p.m., the place came alive with locals and tourists taking to the streets for the paseo, the nightly stroll and visit time.
