This morning, I heard a NPR story featuring three restaurants in Paris. Paris is loaded with restaurants but these places seem to be a good find. All three featured restaurants are owned by the same chef and are located just a few blocks from the Eiffel Tower. Next time you are in Paris, check them out and let me know what you think. Here’s the NPR link: http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=114250336
– David
On a recent trip to Ireland my group and I did some shopping at the Saturday morning market in Galway. My friend Chuck and I roamed the market selecting fresh fish and vegetables for our dinner. Here’s the “McGuffin Cooking Show.”
I think I’ve posted about this subject before, but it bears repeating. Every time I arrive in Venice I can’t help but look at the crowds of tourists and feel a bit sorry for them. Most people float into Venice for a day or two, visit San Marco, the Doges Palace, the Rialto and shop along the streets that connect the major sights. This is compulsory for the first-time visitor and should not be missed. But, if you’ve got two or more days in Venice I recommend getting off the tourist path and taking a look at the local side of Venice.
Three islands in the Venice lagoon are a delightful retreat from the hustle and bustle of Venice. Murano, famous for glass, Burano, famous for lace, and the Venice Lido, famous for its beach are worth a little time. In the past I’ve preached “staying in Venice near San Marco” to get the ultimate experience of the town. but in recent years I’ve changed my mind. Those I travel with and I have come to enjoy the “retreat” that the Lido offers… small neighborhoods, families with kids, comfy little hotels and a hometown feel. Yes, there are tourist here on the Lido, but most are here for the beach and confine their activities to fun in the sun.
We are due to visit Burano and Murano tomorrow. I’ll give an update on those activities later. Right now I’ve got to eat breakfast and head over to Piazza San Marco. It’s just 10 minutes away by vaporetto, but seem like another world compared to the peace and quiet of my “home away from home” B&B on the Lido.
I’ve got a special place in my heart for Ireland. Maybe it’s because I spent some time a few years back all by myself, wandering around, meeting the locals, hitting the pubs and going anyplace I wanted to go. Maybe it could be that somewhere back in history I got a little Irish blood added to mine. Or possibly, I really fell in love with it when I took my band to Dublin a few year back to march in the St. Patty’s Day Parade. The picture here is of me and an old Irish woman on the streets of Dublin. She was out early on St. Patty’s Day yelling, “Shamrocks.” I bought a bunch and pinned them to my jacket.
Ireland is so comfortable and stress-free. Everyone speaks English, it is a short flight from the USA, and if you can sleep on the flight there’s usually no jetlag. But what I really like is the scenery, the people, the music and the pubs.
So, it’s no wonder I’ve choosen my favorite little cranny of Ireland as our first destination on the “Thirsty Traveler’s” tour. You’ve got to be going to Dingle to get to Dingle. Located in the extreme southwest corner of the island, Dingle is a picture-perfect little fishing village situated among rolling hills of “40 shades of green.”
We’ll spend two days here in Dingle exploring the town, listening to “Trad” music in the pubs, having a pint or three, eating some amazing seafood, and learning about the rough and rugged Dingle peninsula.
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JUNE 13: Arrive in Shannon, Ireland where you’ll be met by David McGuffin and your driver/guide. Soon you’ll be on your way to the extreme southwest of Ireland in County Kerry. Ater a breathtaking drive through the coastal mountains, we’ll arrive in Dingle, my favorite Irish fishing village. You’ll have two days here to experience the wild and scenic countryside that we Americans have come to know as Ireland. Our guesthouse is just a block from both the harbor and town center.
Enjoy the afternoon with a brief orientation walking tour followed by some free time to do a little exploring on your own. Later we’ll meet together for our first real Irish dinner.
JUNE 14: Dingle Peninsula – Experience some of Ireland’s wildest natural beauty and most ancient Christian sights. We’ll travel the Slea Head Drive through endless fields of “40 shades of green”, ocean waves crashing on rocks, and all the sheep you’ll ever want to count. Visiting the Blasket Islands Heritage Centre, you will get a close look at a traditional Irish community.
Tonight you’re back in Dingle to enjoy dinner on your own. Along about 8:00 p.m. we’ll need to start grabbing chairs and stools at O’Flaherty’s, my favorite pub for traditional music in all of Ireland. The “trad” session begins sometime around 9:30 or whenever the musicians get ready. It’s all over and done by 11:00.
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Sláinte, David
OK, I’ve finally given in to Starbucks. For ten years now, I’ve shrugged off the Starbucks “ambiance” simply because I really don’t like coffee all that much. But in the last few months, I’ve enjoyed a cappuccino and free WIFI complements of Starbucks. There is also an added bonus of the free mp3 iTunes downloads every Tuesday.
Why I am onto Starbucks? Well in the spring of 2006, I traveled with a group of high school students in France and Spain. Everyday, I lamented at the coincidental passing of a Starbuck store. No matter whether it be in Paris, Lucerne, or Madrid, the “kids” always migrated to a nearby Starbucks. Even if the Eiffel Tower or Plaza Mayor was sure to appear around the next corner, Starbucks always won out. All I can figure out is that Starbucks provides an “Americana” taste of home in a foreign land.
European coffee is strong. Regardless of the county you’re visiting, it is sure to give you a supercharged jolt of caffeine. Coffee varies according to the season. Take Greece for example; could it be they invented the “frappucino?” Visit Athens in July or August, and you’ll find the locals drinking their special blend of very strong iced coffee. By noon, when it is unbearably hot, you still find the locals sipping their own brand of “frappucino.” But come sunset, you’ll find lots of men sitting neighborhood cafes sipping their own hot coffee.
In Italy, any self-respecting local would never think of drinking anything but a quick shot of espresso after noon. Italian cafes, bars, and even highway rest stops serve some of the best espresso to be found. Espresso is a highly concentrated coffee served in a little “one sip” cup. It’s simple to get a shot, but you’ve got to know the system: go to the cash register, order your drink, pay your bill, take the receipt to the coffee counter, and give it to the barista. Soon, you’ll have a frothy dark brown liquid served up in a tiny cup and saucer. Don’t sit, stand at the highrise table and enjoy.
Want a cappuccino? Italians would never think of drinking one outside the morning hours. I’ve heard it said on many occasions that only tourists drink a cappuccino after noon.
Spain is the same, except the coffee is stronger and more concentrated! France is a little better with its “French-Pressed” coffee, but it is still stronger than what we get in North America.
Germany has tempered their morning coffee to North American standards. Their coffee most closely resembles what we have in North America. But, that’s not quite true in Vienna where coffeehouses were first modeled after those in Turkey. Here you’ll find rich, full-bodied coffee which will give a “caffeine buzz” quicker than any I’ve ever experienced.
The bottom line is that coffee is not just coffee, each country has its own twist to the coffee grinder. But, you can always count on it being different than what you get at home. Enjoy and savor… it’s truly European!
-David
When traveling in Europe, I think half the thrill is experiencing good food and good drink with good friends. Over the years, I’ve developed this uncanny knack for searching out and finding cool little places to eat and drink. My rule is always go for the local stuff. To do that you’ve often got to get out of your comfort zone, venture sometimes into the unknown, and even be willing to accept embarrassment or ridicule… but the pay-off is most always worth the effort. I wrote this article in 2003 after returning from a trip to Ireland.
REFLECTIONS FROM MY “THE BEST OF IRELAND” TOUR – MAY 2003
IRELAND: The Irish people take pride in their heritage and the hard times they have endured. As we drove about the island I was saddened at the old landmarks which draw a vivid picture of the harsh history which the Irish have endured. Yet I was also pleased to see signs of great change due to the rapid growth of the Irish economy in the past few years, coupled with the people’s deep desire to preserve the past for future generations.
We spent some time in Doolin near the end of our tour. You’ve got to be going to Doolin to get to Doolin. It is located in County Clare just 500 meters from the rugged Atlantic coast. Life here for hundreds of years has been tough and hard to bear. The land is too rugged for crops. During the famine the English overlords banned many a Irish soul to this God forsaken place.
Doolin, in the last 20 years, has become an outpost for traditional Irish music. Its three pubs (that’s the extent of the town) host Irish musicians each night. These musicians entertain the locals and tourist alike with gigs, reels, waltzes, and folk songs. All you have to do to enjoy the scene is show up about 9 p.m. and work your way into a seat.
Many people from my groups have become experts at the pubs over the past 10 days. Here are some hints we think will help make your visit to an Irish pub a most enjoyable experience.
1. GRAND ENTRANCE – When you walk into a pub in the early evening (before 8:30 p.m.) everyone will stop what they are doing and look at you! (Remember the word PUB is short for ‘Public Place’. This is where people gather to talk about the day’s news, to discuss who died and who left town). Don’t be afraid. Hold your ground and proceed to step two.
2. DON’T SIT DOWN!! STEP UP TO THE BAR – Nobody is going to wait on you at a table. Sitting at a table means you want to be left alone. In order to get a food or a drink, you’ve got to work your way through the crowd and up to the bar. When you get there the bartender will not wait on you until you make EYE CONTACT and give a sign that you’re ready to order.
3. ORDER YOUR DRINK – Once you’ve completed step two above, now you’re ready to order. Speak up over the crowd and state you’re order. For example: a pint of Smithwick’s will get you the ale brewed in Kilkenny. DON’T SAY SMITH-WICK’S….IT’S “SMID-ICKS”. If you just say you want a pint, you’ll most likely get the dark stout known as GUINNESS. Don’t ask what’s on tap… the taps are right in front of you. Remember, speak up over the crowd.
4. DON’T BE IMPATIENT – BARTENDERS TAKE THEIR TIME. – It takes a good five minutes or so to get a drink. Drawing just the right pint of stout is an art form. The bartender will usually fill the glass 2/3 full and let it sit for a few minutes then come back and put the finishing “head” on the top.
5. STAND AT THE BAR. – If you want to meet people stand at the bar, talk to people, and ask questions. It will amaze you how many people you’ll make friends with in an evening.
6. MAKING CONVERSATION… CRAIC….WILL USUALLY GET YOU FREE DRINKS – Three young ladies were with me on tour last month. They AND their boyfriends scored free drinks almost every night by being friendly and flashing those pearly whites.
7. TAP YOUR FOOT! – There will always be music — enjoy it!
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