by David McGuffin | Jul 21, 2011 | Eating & Drinking, Experiencing Europe, Restaurant Reviews
I’ve grown to enjoy cooking over the years. I remember my first crack at it was when my wife traveled on a six-week business trip to Washington. My children were in college and out of the house, so I was left at home to “fend for myself.” So… I cooked.
It’s said that the best way to learning something is to study hard and practice the art. I’ve done a lot of both. Consequently, now that I’ve been at it for more than a decade, I’ve got a pretty good concept of what tastes good and more importantly, why it tastes good.
Years ago, I began taking my students on “educational” tours to Europe. These tours were organized by huge travel companies that packed a bus and ran them through Europe as cheaply as possible. There were many things I did not like about these early tour experiences, but for now, I’ll concentrate on eating and food choices.
In my experience, a typical meal on a student educational tour consisted of weak pasta or salad, a mystery meat cutlet, French fries, and a fruit or ice cream cup. Getting a variation of this day after day simply was not my idea of European cuisine. It certainly did not match the grand dining experiences of which I had so often read in books and magazines. On many occasions, I remember returning to the USA and rushing to the first “American” restaurant just to get a good meal. My students’ first stop was often McDonald’s! You can read my account of these early days of eating in Europe at my blog entry titled: “I always came home hungry.”
With this in mind, it is no wonder that quality dining experiences are an integral element in my “Exploring Europe” travel philosophy. For me, eating is a cultural experience no less important than seeing the sights, visiting a museum or chatting up a local. It brings the locale to life and presents an authentic and literal “taste” of the destination. I’ve developed an uncanny knack for finding good places to eat. Most often these are far off the “tourist” radar and feature fresh local cuisine, passionately prepared and served by a caring chef. However, I’m not opposed to breaking away from a traditional menu, of say, meat, and potatoes in Ireland, and supporting an eclectic chef’s fusion-style menu.
In my next few blog entries, I will share my passions of European travel, cooking, and dining. I hope it makes your taste buds tingle!
by David McGuffin | Jul 15, 2011 | Culture & Customs, David's Journal, Destinations, Eating & Drinking, Experiencing Europe, Restaurant Reviews
Candice Brown, a former student, has family who live in France. Luckily, Candice and I were able to coordinate our travel schedules so that we could meet up in Lyon, France.
Preplanning is the key to getting a seat on one of Europe’s busiest trains. I booked my TGV ticket online, several days in advance (visit http://www.voyages-sncf.com, choose your route, and pay by credit card online). The journey was a breeze once at the Paris Lyon TGV station. I zipped through the French countryside at lightning speed and was in Lyon in just over two hours.
Candice, our friend Abby, and her grandfather Jean-Paul met me at the station in Lyon. We hurried back to Jean-Paul’s home where I met Chantelle, his wife. After a little visit, we were off to explore the town.
Starting at the Cathedral, on the highest summit, we made our way downhill through woody parks, medieval cobbled streets, the Renaissance city, and finally the 20th century “new” town. It was a delight to have Jean-Paul and Chantelle as my private guides. I felt so special that they would devote a day to showing me around their hometown. An added bonus was visiting with Candice and Abby, not in Orange Park, but in France.
One of the highlights was our dining experience. The Restaurant Les Adrets (here is the TripAdvisor link) was located in the heart of the old medieval town and seemed to draw attention from only the locals. Jean-Paul told me that reservations were essential, and luckily, he had booked us a table! There was no menu and very few choices, but that did not matter, because the food was divine!
For my starter, I had toasted bread loaded with greens, olive oil, and fresh anchovies. It was amazing! A funny thing: when I asked Jean-Paul how to say “anchovy” in French, he laughed and said, “It is a French word, so it is anchovy.”
I’ve had a lot of salmon in the past few weeks, but Restaurant Les Adrets’s salmon plat was the best so far. It came perfectly prepared and fresh from the sea. The local wine from “Cote du Rhone” was presented in a traditional “pot” or glass bottle, only available in the Lyon area. The bottle had several inches of glass at the bottom. I speculated the bottles were made that way so that they would not tip over after a bottle or two!
Later, we returned to Jean-Paul’s and Chantelle’s home where we sat, talked, and visited. This was the best! I picked up so much about French culture, protocol, and customs. Like any grandparents, they were proud of their grandchildren and their immersion into their (French) culture. I am truly thankful to have had an opportunity to experience Lyon with the perfect hosts in Jean-Paul and Chantelle.
Lyon- Candice, David, and Abby
Candice and Abby, thanks for showing me around!
by David McGuffin | Jun 21, 2011 | Destinations, Experiencing Europe, Hotel Reviews, Restaurant Reviews
My friends and I stayed in Segovia last night. A small medieval town of about 60,000, it offered a stress-free beginning to my adventures in Spain and Portugal. An added plus is that it is at an elevation of about 3,000 feet so the weather was very cool and pleasant.
My GPS was useless in the narrow cobbled streets, but the signage was pretty good at directing me to the main plaza. I learned a long time ago not to drive into a medieval town without first walking it. So, we parked in the modern underground parking lot and I walked the pedestrian-only streets to my hotel. Then, I got in the car and drove the route which I was instructed by the hotel staff. If you are interested in the mistakes I’ve made and how I learned to first walk, then drive read my blog entry “Too Much Room for the Road.”
Infanta Isabel Hotel proved to be a good find. Located on the pedestrian-only Plaza Major, we found a friendly reception staff, clean and updated rooms, and a perfect location from which to explore the town.
One of the main attractions in Segovia is the Roman aqueduct. At one time, it carried water over nine miles from the Río Frío to the Roman fort in Segovia. Today, it is amazing to see a remaining section of the aqueduct that is 2,500 feet long and 100 feet high. Roman engineers and workers constructed this section 2,000 years ago out of 20,000 precisely cut, granite stones, which were stacked without the aid of any mortar.
The Cathedral sits right on Plaza Major and dominates the skyline. Since construction began in the Renaissance (1525-1768) it contains a variety of architectural styles, mainly Flamboyant Gothic. However, the church is capped with a dome more closely related to late Renaissance and Baroque church buildings.
I took a stroll from the aqueduct to the Alcazar, trying to get a “feel” for the town’s layout. About 8:30 p.m., the place came alive with locals and tourists taking to the streets for the paseo, the nightly stroll and visit time.
This being our first day in Europe, we were hungry and ready for bed by 8:00 p.m. However, people tend to get a late start on the evening in Segovia (and most of Spain). By 9:30 p.m. we could hold out no longer and decided to eat at “Caesars,” the restaurant associated with our hotel. Dinner was delightful, sitting on the main square and watching the “town” go by. I had a fine meal of gazpacho and a local specialty, roasted suckling pig.
by David McGuffin | Mar 25, 2011 | Adventures in Tour Guiding, Destinations, Eating & Drinking, Restaurant Reviews
The Mercato de San Miguel has long served as central Madrid’s one-stop “farmer’s” market. I first visited here years ago when locals dropped in for fresh ingredients for a full meal. Here one can find fresh and smelly fish, harry legs of Iberian ham, countless bottles of wine, fresh and squeaky-clean vegetables and all the extras as well.
Arriving at the Mercato de San Miguel this year I found an enhanced market with the new additions of many vendors selling tapas to eat right away. Last night we decided to have a movable feast of tapas and drinks at the market. About forty of us descended on the market at 7:00 pm and munched and drank our way through dinner in a four hour moveable feast. What a great way to experience Madrid and get right into the heartbeat of the local culture.
Vivian found what she dubbed “the most amazing sweets ever.” A warm center of caramel surrounded by puff pastry and loaded with chocolate and cream topping.
Kayla and friends found more desserts that were pretty amazing as well.
My friend Chris and I enjoyed a plate of french fries at the hotel bar before we went to the market. Once there, he did not realize I was paying for their tapas hunting! Finally, with money in hand, Chris found somethings a little better than that plate of fries.
For 2,3,or 4 euros you can get a tasty selection of OLIVES. I enjoyed olives stuffed with calamari, cheese and ham. They also had one variety that tasted smokey and herbal. The flavor was so intense I could not get enough of them!
The Jamon Iberico is great. There are several varieties ranging in price from 5 to 16 euros per kilo. The best variety is Jamon Bellota which is thinly sliced from the leg of a black Iberian pig fed only a diet of acorns and allowed to roam freely. You have to purchase at least 500 grams (about 9 euros) which will feed 4 people.
The cheesemonger’s kiosk was a popular place. For about 6 euros I asked the vendor to assembly six selections of her favorite cheeses. I don’t know what I got, but all of them were tasty! I chose one variety on my own and boy did I make a mistake. It was a mixture of sheep and goat cheese and when I pointed to it, the vendor wrinkled her nose in disgust. I don’t know why I decided to get it anyway!
So, if you happen to find yourself in Madrid make a point to enjoy and experience the Mercato de San Miguel. It’s on Calle Major between Puerta del Sol and the Royal Palace, just around the corner from Plaza Major.
by David McGuffin | Jul 23, 2010 | Destinations, Restaurant Reviews
I got a Facebook message today from a friend who is taking his wife to New York in a couple of weeks. He asked me for some of my favorite dining choices and off-the-beaten path things to do. So, Charlotte and I have colaborated and come up with our “thrifty and tasteful” take on New York City.
Most of our choices are family-owned establishments offering personal and caring service and always with a European flair. Many have limited seating (20 tops max) so it would be wise to call ahead for a reservation. We highly recommend all our choices. They are listed in no particular order.
- Trattoria Trecolori – 254 W. 42 St. (between Broadway and 8th Ave.) tel. 212-997-4540 – http://www.trattoriatrecolori.com/.
We were introduced to this place by David, one of Charlotte’s co-workers, and a long time resident of New York. One day David took us here for lunch. As we walked in David was greeted by the owner and waiters and treated as a “regular.” We’ve eaten here several times since and although they don’t know us, we get great service and some pretty amazing authentic Italian-American food. We dined at Trecolori just a couple of weeks ago with my sister and her husband and had a great dining experience (as opposed to a meal). I asked the waiter to prepare his choice for my dinner… he brought roasted veal that tasted amazing and melted in my mouth. Be sure to listen to the daily specials and order one if it suits your fancy. I’ve had several varieties of their fresh fish and it has always been great. The pasta and desserts are excellent as well. Entree items range from $12-23. Eclectic collection of wine from $24 a bottle.
- Pergola Des Artistes – 252 W. 46 Street (between Broadway and 8th Ave.) – tel. 212-302-7500 – http://pergoladesartistes.com (closed Sunday and Monday).
I’ve walked by this little “hole-in-the-wall” many times and wondered what was behind the small little door. The entrance reminds me of a brothal (not that I’ve ever been in one, mind you) or mafia-run nightclub. But trust me, behind that door is a welcome smile and some down-home country French cuisine. We finally dined here for the first time in early July 2010. New York was under a horrible heat wave, with temps above 100 F, and the cool A/C and homey atmosphere were just what we needed. When we arrived we were greeted by the barman, who we later found out was out waiter and the manager too. The menu was limited with typical provential French, escargot, onion soup, duck, beef burgundy, coq du vin, mussels in white wine, etc. However they do have an extensive list of fresh daily specials as well. On this occasion we chose escargot in a delicious broth of butter and herbs, duck confit with the roasted breast and lamb chops stuffed with porcini mushrooms. Perfect meal, perfect service and authentic cuisine. Entree items range from $12- $20. Good wine from $22 a bottle.
- La Petite Auburge 116 Lexington Ave, NY, NY 10016
Tel .212-689-5003
www.lapetiteaubergeny.com
Amazing and another well hidden gem.
- L’Ecole the Restaurant of The French Culinary Institute – 462 Broadway (just north of Canal St.) – tel. 212-219-3300 http://www.frenchculinary.com/lecole. We discovered L’Ecole in February 2010 and it has instantly become one of our favorites. Considering price, value, authenticity and service it cannot be topped! They have a lunch menu, a dinner menu before 7:00 p.m. and a dinner menu after 7:00 p.m.. We’v dined here at lunch and at the pre-7 p.m. dinner. They do not take reservations between 7 and 8 p.m. Just like in Europe, a table here is your’s until you leave, or they close and run you out. The cooking staff and wait staff are all students at the adjacent French Culinary Institute. The service and food is exceptional, authentically French and affordable. For us, this is often our least expensive meal in New York. Entrees from $9-18. Good wine (they don’t serve any bad stuff) from $22 a bottle.
- Cafe Un Deux Tois – 123 W. 44th Street (between 6th and Broadway)
Tel. 212-354-4148 – http://cafeundeuxtrois.biz/
Elegant upscale French dining with typical Parisian charm (said with tongue in cheek). David – I’ve spent a a few hours at the bar here with drinks and appitizers waiting on Charlotte while she shops. Good economical experience, all thing considered. Charlotte will have to tell you about the dining. Charlotte – I had lunch here at a retirement party. I don’t remember the exact menu but I do remember that I thoroughly enjoyed it!
- Da Gennaro Ristorante – 129 Mulburry Street (Little Italy) –
tel. 212-431-3934 Authentic Italian-American cuisine located in the heart of Little Italy. Everything here is authentic and typical, except for the waiters- they are from Spain or Mexico but do a good job of fooling you that they are true Italians. If you are in the area, go here for the food and you won’t be disappointed. Although, I would not make a special trip from the theatre district or uptown. It is always packed and the food is good. Entrees from $15.
- Carmine’s NYC Legendary Family Style Italian Restaurant – 2450 Broadway (Upper Westside) – tel. 212-362-2300 – http://www.carminesnyc.com/index.php
Carmine’s is consistant and always a winner when it comes to authentic Italian-America food. It is served family-style and in huge portions. If there are only two of you dining consider sharing the antipasti, pasta and entree. We normally come here with a group of people, order three or four courses, try to eat it all and don’t succeed. Consider getting a doggy bag and giving it to a needy person along the street between the restaurant and the subway. But seriously, the food, ambiance and dining experience is amazing. You won’t go home disappointed or hungry. Entrees from $12.
- Morton’s Steakhouse – 551 Fifth Ave. – Tel. 212-972-3315 – http://www.mortons.com/newyork/
Yes, it is a chain but for us, there is no better steak in New York City (we are suckers for Chicago-style meat). Entrees from $22 up.
by David McGuffin | Feb 19, 2010 | Eating & Drinking, Restaurant Reviews
Charlotte and I spent Valentine’s Day in New York City. Valentine’s dinner found us at Morton’s Steakhouse for a pretty prodictable dinner with a good filet and an amazing souffle to top it off. However, I decided to venture out and try some new places for our remaining days in the city.
LA PETITE AUBERGE
116 Lexington Ave, NY, NY 10016
212-689-5003
www.lapetiteaubergeny.com
La Petite Auberge is definitely out of the way and off the beaten path. I discovered this little French gem while waiting on Charlotte to complete her shopping adventures. Having nothing to do but while away my time I began looking for a traditional French restaurant with moderate prices.
Arriving at the restaurant after our walk in the sleet and snow we were welcomed by a warm host who was expecting us and had our table ready. The restaurant probably seats about sixty people at fifteen white tableclothed tables. The walls were constructed of amber-stained pine planks and lent an air of old-worldness to the the place. We elected to get the prix fixe menu at a very reasonable cost of about $25 per person.
The waiter and his assistant were attentive all evening and were most helpful in moving the dinner along at our pace… not too fast. The menu was traditional French… escargot, soup, salad, beef burgundy, duck, rabbit, lamb and the like. After studying the menu we both decided to get escargot for our starter and the confit of duck for our main course. In retrospect we should have ordered two different menus, but not tonight. We also ordered a bottle of Pommard to wash it all down with.
The meal was exceptional. The escargot, served our of it shells, was garlicky and buttered just right. The duck was as good as any I’ve had in Paris. We each got a thigh, leg, breast and wing. Way too much meat, but I was not complaining. The thigh/leg combo was cooked just right with the tender meat falling off the bone. The breast was fried in the same manner and was a little over-down and dry for my liking, but still tasty. The main course was serves with french cut green beans and a wild rice mix. There was desert as well, but I could not eat but a few bits of my chocolate mousse due to being full already.
La Petite Auburge receives my highest recommendation for a traditional and rustic French dinner. If you are looking for a little bit of rural France in the big city, don’t miss out on the opportunity to dine here!
Bon Appetit!
David
With this in mind, it is no wonder that quality dining experiences are an integral element in my “Exploring Europe” travel philosophy. For me, eating is a cultural experience no less important than seeing the sights, visiting a museum or chatting up a local. It brings the locale to life and presents an authentic and literal “taste” of the destination. I’ve developed an uncanny knack for finding good places to eat. Most often these are far off the “tourist” radar and feature fresh local cuisine, passionately prepared and served by a caring chef. However, I’m not opposed to breaking away from a traditional menu, of say, meat, and potatoes in Ireland, and supporting an eclectic chef’s fusion-style menu.
