The Cinque Terre: Twenty-five years and still loving it!

The Cinque Terre: Twenty-five years and still loving it!

by | Mar 9, 2026 | Adventures in Tour Guiding, Blog, Culture & Customs, David's Journal, Essential Travel Resources, Experiencing Europe

by David McGuffin

My First Visit to the Cinque Terre

That morning nearly 25 years ago, I woke to delivery vans, Vespas, Apes, and business owners starting their day. Beneath the buzz of engines, I heard the steady sweep of sandals on the street below. Distant waves, gulls, and the occasional boat horn punctuated the soundscape. Today, via Fingina in Monterosso al Mare remains much the same.

A few days earlier, I drove into Cinque Terre from the AutoStrada toll highway about thirty miles north. Charlotte and friends Tippy and Marje joined me on the harrowing, winding mountain roads without safety barriers. We all felt relief reaching the seaside’s flat ground. I was scouting destinations for my European tours.

25 Years and a lot of Changes

Reflecting on those early days, I wrote in my journal, “Monterosso is a tourist town, but out of the way enough to keep crowds away.” Much has changed since then. Cruise ships now bring waves of passengers, flooding villages a few times a week. Trenitalia increased local rail services, transporting thousands into the five villages multiple times daily. Guidebooks continue to boost the Cinque Terre’s fame. Despite this, I still love it!

The rugged coastline of Liguria is dotted with small fishing villages, terraced vineyards, olive groves, and breathtaking vistas. Even as the Cinque Terre has become a popular destination, I still find the locals devoted to their customs and traditions. When I’m here, it’s almost impossible not to set my sightseeing plans aside, relax, and embrace a true Italian vacation in this region.

A Bit of History

The Cinque Terre—or “five lands”—is a loose group of villages on Italy’s northern Ligurian Sea. For centuries, residents lived off land and sea. Castles from the Middle Ages protected land barons and serfs. Raiders and pirates often kidnapped locals for slavery or ransom. In the Renaissance, villagers grew more independent, focusing on fishing, vineyards, and olive groves.

The steep, rocky mountains aren’t ideal for farming, but isolation forced locals to adapt. They built hundreds of miles of terrace gardens, all supported by freestanding stone walls.

The five villages are linked by trails winding through vineyards, gardens, and lemon and olive groves. These trails were originally built to access terraced gardens and provide transportation between villages.

Today, this area is a national park that balances tourism and conservation. It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. To help fund park projects, a permit is required for trail use, and we provide it to all our guests.

Why I Still Go to the Cinque Terre today, and why you should go with me!

Cinque Terre still draws me back yearly. When Charlotte and I vacation in Italy, we often rent an apartment in Monterosso and relax. The villages are crowded by day, but evenings bring magical al fresco dining, wine bars, parks, and locals mingling. We spend our days in rented beach chairs. The hiking trails between Monterosso and Vernazza, and around Manarola, are challenging but rewarding. Hopping between villages by train or boat is a great way to enjoy the region’s scenery, art, cuisine, and coast. And since last year, the “Via della Amore” has reopened between Riomaggiore and Manarola.

Join me for an unforgettable experience—reserve your spot on my Best of Italy and Essence of Italy tours now! Let’s explore the Cinque Terre together—book your adventure today.

—

David McGuffin has been leading small-group tours to Europe for nearly 50 years. His mission is to encourage Americans to broaden their cultural mindset through engaging and exciting travel experiences. Learn more about his tours at davidmcguffin.com.

Join a McGuffin Tour to the Cinque Terre & Italy - Click here

Watch David’s “Cinque Terre” Episode from his Best of Italy Video Series.

1977 Lunch in Rome on flight layover to Athens
Riomaggiore Cinque Terre
Sunny beach with orange umbrellas and clear blue water.
People relaxing by the seaside in a picturesque coastal town under clear blue skies.
Cinque Terre

Tom Hickinbotham - The Cinque Terre

Afraid to Travel? It’s Much Ado About Nothing!

Afraid to Travel? It’s Much Ado About Nothing!

by | Jan 9, 2026 | Blog, Culture & Customs, Essential Travel Resources, Experiencing Europe

by David McGuffin

I spend several months on the road in Europe each year. I’m either leading tours, checking in on my tour groups, or doing my own travel and research. One of the joys of travel, especially when I’m on the road in Europe, is avoiding the never-ending doom-and-gloom news reports from around the world, especially from the USA. At home, I have friends who have those cable news channels running 24/7 and believe everything that’s put out on the daily talking points. Then there are others who believe everything that appears on social media sites is the gospel truth. I can’t tell you how many times I get asked, “Is it ok to travel over there?” or “Don’t you feel unsafe with all that’s going on in the world?”

This year, all the negative media hype about travel seems worse than usual. I’ve been reading these headlines, listening to the hand-wringing, and watching friends and acquaintances second-guess their travel plans. I spoke to a friend the other day who usually takes his students on a music performance tour with us every few years. So, when I reached out to him about his 2027 plans, he said there was no interest in his community to go anywhere with all that’s going on in the world. It’s frustrating, because I know it’s nonsense.

The real story…

In 2025, I crisscrossed Europe, from Ireland to Italy, from Portugal to Budapest. Not once did I feel unsafe or out of place. I found Europeans living their own lives. Tourists from all over the world enjoying themselves. Streets filled with laughter, cafes buzzing with conversation, and Christmas markets sparkling under winter lights.

The idea that Europeans are sitting around waiting to give Americans the cold shoulder because of our political situation back home is laughable. In my almost fifty years of traveling Europe, I’ve witnessed plenty of political ups and downs on both sides of the Atlantic. Europeans have seen it all before, too, and they, just like us, are too busy living their own lives to spend time judging American tourists. Sure, there might be occasional political conversations if you bring them up. But Europeans are welcoming people, and tourism is a vital part of their economy. They want you there. Your dollars, euros, and presence are appreciated.

Recently, I’ve settled in for 30+ days in a small Bavarian town near Munich. This is a first for me, because my overnight stays on tour are typically two to three consecutive nights. My point is, here in this town, I’ve begun to feel like a local. The grocer knows me, the lady at the pizzeria knows what wine I like, the hotel staff are very kind, and on and on. Everyone recognizes the “Amerikan” whose wife is in the hospital up the hill. But, instead of grilling me on politics or the state of the world, most folks like to use me as a chance to try out their English!

I was in Portugal for Easter. I’ve walked the streets of Florence, Siena, and Palermo. I explored Christmas markets in Prague and Munich. I stood on O’Connell Street in Dublin, wandered down Grafton Street, and ate Shepherd’s Pie in Temple Bar. Not once did anyone treat me differently because I’m American. Not once did I feel unwelcome.

Year after year, the Europeans I encounter are warm, friendly, and eager to share their culture. They asked about where we were from, recommended their favorite restaurants, and helped us navigate their cities. I’ve been doing this for almost fifty years, through multiple US presidential administrations from both parties, and I can tell you that European hospitality toward Americans remains as strong as ever.

It’s more expensive to travel in 2026.

It’s true, Europe is more expensive than it was a few years ago. Prices have gone up everywhere, from hotels to restaurants to admissions. Economic uncertainty and rising costs have affected international travel planning, and many Americans are indeed adjusting their travel habits. But just like at home, European destinations have expensive options and budget alternatives. A spritz with a view costs the same whether there’s drama at home or not. A morning cappuccino in a quiet piazza doesn’t care about the state of the world or its politics.

Forget the media hype and trust the boots-on-the-ground information.

There are many like me who spend a good part of our lives traveling outside the USA. Without exception, each will tell you, “Go while you can and travel without fear.” We live in a world hyped up and driven by a media that thrives and makes money on anxiety and fear. The headline, “Americans are Having a Wonderful Time in Europe,” doesn’t make for a clickable headline. But “Should Americans Be Afraid to Travel to Europe?” does.

I recently encountered a fellow in Italy who was on one of those big bus group tours visiting Rome. He was worn out, hot, and overwhelmed, but you know what he wasn’t? Scared. He wasn’t worried about being American. He was just tired from trying to see too much too fast, which is a completely different problem and one I help people avoid with our small group tours.

OK, just go!

If you’ve been dreaming of seeing the Eiffel Tower, walking through the ruins of the Roman Forum, standing before the David in Florence, or sipping a pint in an Irish pub, don’t let these overblown stories stop you. Don’t let fear-mongering headlines steal your dreams. Instead, book your trip, seize the moment, and go have the time of your life!

I’ve built my entire career on encouraging Americans to broaden their cultural horizons through engaging and exciting travel experiences in Europe. I wouldn’t do that if I thought it was unsafe, unwelcoming, or unwise.

Europe is open for business. The cobblestone streets are still there. The museums are still filled with masterpieces. The cafes still serve excellent apertivi. The views from mountaintops still take your breath away. And the Europeans are still welcoming visitors without judgment. So pack your bags, book that flight, and get ready for the adventure of a lifetime. Europe is waiting. I’ll see you there.

—

David McGuffin has been leading small-group tours to Europe for nearly 50 years. His mission is to encourage Americans to broaden their cultural mindset through engaging and exciting travel experiences. Learn more about his tours at davidmcguffin.com.

1977 Lunch in Rome on flight layover to Athens
1977 Lunch in Rome on flight layover to Athens
Eiffel Tower - Paris

Prost from the Hofbraühaus

A man and woman looking out into Lake Como.
A man and woman looking out into Lake Como.
Mount Etna and the Gambino Family winery

Mount Etna and the Gambino Family winery

by | Jan 8, 2026 | Blog, Destinations, Eating & Drinking, Experiencing Europe

by David McGuffin

I was up on Mount Etna with my Sicilian friend, Paolo, a few months ago. After winding through the lava fields and trekking down into a crater, we had had all the cold and desolate volcanic slopes we could stand for the day. So we headed back down the northern slope of Etna to the Gambino family winery.

The Gambino estate sits at about 2,600 feet above sea level on the eastern slope of Mount Etna, perched right there in the National Park with views stretching across the Taormina coastline and the Mediterranean. Getting there means winding your way up mountain roads through volcanic landscape, and I won’t lie to you—the drive can be a bit nerve-wracking if you’re not used to mountain driving. But the moment you arrive and see those terraced vineyards spreading out with the sea glittering in the distance, you understand why this place is special.

Here’s what makes Gambino extraordinary. This is a family operation that’s been at it for over twenty years, with the Raciti Gambino siblings—Francesco, Filadelfo, and Mariagrazia—pouring their hearts into every aspect of the winery. Francesco grew up watching his parents buy land piece by piece on Etna, and his mother Maria came from a long line of Etna vintners. You can taste it in the wines, and you can feel it in how the family welcomes visitors. When Filadelfo takes you down into their cellar—carved ten meters deep into volcanic rock—and explains their winemaking philosophy, you’re not getting a corporate tour. You’re getting invited into their passion.

The volcanic terroir here is remarkable. The soil is rich with minerals from Etna’s eruptions, and those high-altitude vineyards get that dramatic temperature swing between day and night that’s crucial for developing complex flavors in the grapes. They’re working with indigenous varieties—Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio for the reds, Carricante and Catarratto for the whites. The Tifeo Etna Rosso has this beautiful pale ruby color with aromas that just keep unfolding—cherry, leather, coffee, vanilla. And the Tifeo Etna Bianco? It’s got this bright citrus character with touches of pepper. I could taste the soil and the sea breeze in it.

We booked their full experience—the wine tasting paired with food. They serve you five wines alongside a three-course meal of traditional Sicilian specialties, and their sommeliers know how to guide you through the pairings without being pretentious about it. The antipasti plate and the lentil and chickpea soup were perfect pairings with the wine. And that view from their terrace? Breathtaking doesn’t quite cover it. You’re looking out over terraced vineyards with the Mediterranean spread out before you, and you’re tasting wines that couldn’t come from anywhere else on earth.

The Gambino siblings practice sustainable viticulture—hand-picking their grapes, using natural pest control, doing things the way their parents and grandparents would recognize. But they’re not stuck in the past. They’ve married traditional methods with modern techniques to create wines that speak authentically to this place while meeting international quality standards. You can find their wines in restaurants, but experiencing them here, where they’re made, is something entirely different.

What I love about bringing people to Gambino is that authenticity. There’s no pretense here, no over-the-top wine snobbery. Just a family that loves what they do, making exceptional wines in one of the most dramatic settings you’ll find anywhere. They welcome you like you’re visiting their home—because you are. After your tasting and tour, you can browse their shop, stock up on bottles (they ship worldwide), and maybe grab some of their olive oil, which comes from trees growing at the same altitude as the vines.

The winery gets busy, especially in summer, so I suggest booking ahead. And yes, it takes effort to get there. But that effort is part of what makes it memorable. This isn’t a quick stop on a tour bus circuit. It’s a genuine experience with people who have deep roots in this volcanic soil, who’ve been dealing with Etna’s challenges and gifts for generations, and who make wines that taste like nowhere else on earth.

1977 Lunch in Rome on flight layover to Athens

David and Paolo

1977 Lunch in Rome on flight layover to Athens
Temple of Apollo Epicurius at Bassae

Temple of Apollo Epicurius at Bassae

by | Jan 6, 2026 | Blog, Destinations, Experiencing Europe

by David McGuffin

I’ve been leading tours to Greece for years now, and I’ve found most travelers pack their itineraries with Athens and the islands—and don’t get me wrong, those are must-sees. But if you want to experience something truly special, something that’ll stick with you long after you’ve unpacked your suitcase back home, you need to make the trek to Bassae.

 

The Temple of Apollo Epicurius sits high up in the Peloponnese mountains at about 3,700 feet, perched on a remote mountainside that feels like the edge of the world. Getting there isn’t exactly a hop, skip, and jump—you’re looking at about an hour’s drive from the nearest town through winding mountain roads. But trust me, that journey is part of what makes this place so remarkable. When you finally arrive and see this ancient temple standing against the rugged Arcadian landscape, it hits you. This is what the ancient Greeks were all about—reaching for the divine in the most awe-inspiring places they could find.

 

Here’s what makes Bassae extraordinary. First, it’s one of the best-preserved Greek temples you’ll see anywhere, right up there with the Hephaisteion in Athens. The locals built it back in the 5th century BC, probably designed by Ictinus—yes, the same architect who worked on the Parthenon. They dedicated it to Apollo Epicurius, which means Apollo the Helper, supposedly after he protected them from a plague. And get this: unlike most Greek temples that face east-west, this one runs north-south. Some say it’s because of the steep terrain, others think it is aligned with an older temple on the site. Either way, it’s different, and different is good when you’re exploring ancient Greece.

 

Now, I won’t sugarcoat it—the temple is currently covered with a protective tent structure. It’s not the most photogenic thing you’ve ever seen (from afar). They shrouded the temple to prevent further weathering and decay, but the tent detracts from that “ancient ruins in the mountains” aesthetic we all love. The beautiful sculptural frieze that once decorated the interior—showing battles between Greeks and Amazons, and Lapiths and Centaurs—was carted off to the British Museum back in the day. I’ve seen those in London, as well, but that’s a whole other conversation, and one the Greeks aren’t too happy about.

 

But here’s the thing. Even with the tent and without the original sculptures, standing at Bassae is an experience you can’t get at the more famous sites. The remoteness that kept this temple remarkably intact for over two millennia is the same quality that makes visiting it feel like a genuine discovery. You’re not battling crowds or tour buses. Instead, you’re surrounded by wild, windswept mountains with views stretching across untamed valleys. That isolation lets you really feel what those ancient worshippers must have felt when they climbed up here to honor Apollo.

 

I can only bring my friends here when I’m driving with 4-6 people.  But when we get here, they always tell me Bassae was one of the tour’s highlights. It’s authentic. It’s dramatic. And it reminds you that the best travel experiences aren’t always the ones in the guidebooks—sometimes they’re the ones that take a little extra effort to reach.
1977 Lunch in Rome on flight layover to Athens
Travel Talk Tuesday Dispatch – November 25, 2025

Travel Talk Tuesday Dispatch – November 25, 2025

by | Nov 25, 2025 | Travel Talk Tuesday Dispatch

1. Travel Hint – Bring a Drawstring Backpack

We send this lightweight drawstring backpack to all who sign up for a David McGuffin tour. It’s a multipurpose bag to carry small items with ease. Use it on the bus to keep your snacks, lotions, and supplies handy. Or use it as a day bag, like I do, to carry only what’s needed for the moment. But the sad thing is, more often than not, folks show up on tour and have left their DMEE bag at home. It’s only then that they realize what a mistake it is!

 

 

2. Destination Deep-Dive: Munich, Germany—The Ratskeller

The Ratskeller München is a famous historic restaurant located in the basement of the New Town Hall (Neues Rathaus), right at Marienplatz in the heart of Munich. It has a history dating back over 150 years, having opened in 1874, and is genuinely a Munich institution.

The restaurant features over 1,000 seats across 15 function rooms, with stunning neo-Gothic architecture, vaulted ceilings, and a magnificent Prunkhof (courtyard). The historic ambiance makes it worth visiting to see the interior itself.

The restaurant offers authentic Bavarian and Franconian cuisine.  The menu includes: Classic Bavarian delicacies like schnitzel, sausages, and roast pork; vegan and vegetarian options; and a variety of sides, including several potato-based options made with fresh ingredients, preferably sourced from the region.

The restaurant also includes additional spaces: a Bistro & Wine Bar, the Royal Dolores Munich Pub & Bar (which stays open until 1:00 AM), and a Franconian wine tavern.

The restaurant is open Monday to Sunday, including public holidays, from 11:00 AM to 11:00 PM. The prices are moderate, typically €20-30 per person for a meal. It’s popular, so I recommend making a reservation.

3. Behind the Scenes: Madame Brassiere – The Affordable Eiffel Tower Restaurant

I’ve visited the Eiffel Tower dozens of times, but it was only a few years ago that I discovered Madame Brassiere. Located on the first level, Madame Brassiere offers an affordable bar and restaurant with stunning views across Paris’ skyline.  

 Most tourists visit the Eiffel Tower for the ride to the top, a look around, and then hurry back down. But if you plan to linger a little, taking your time over drinks is an excellent way to experience Paris. Here’s my story.

 A few years ago, I was doing a private tour for a mom, dad, and teenage daughter. They tended to linger and shop a lot and did not really care much about art, history, or culture. When we got to the Eiffel Tower, they were loaded with shopping packages, so I volunteered to go up to the first level, find a seat, and watch their shopping bags while they ascended to the top.  

 It was mid-afternoon when I arrived on level one, so I asked if I could visit the Madame Brassiere bar to sit a while and have a drink. It was July, I was hot and sweaty, so I didn’t think I’d have much chance of getting into an upscale bar on the Eiffel Tower. But I was wrong!

 Actually, there were very few people inside. The bar looked out over the Seine and the Trocadéro, with sweeping vistas across Paris. So, for the price of an expensive glass of wine, I had the place practically to myself for the afternoon. After a bit, I asked what it would take for me to bring in my guests for dinner. Unfortunately, the dining area upstairs was fully booked, but the waiter told me I could stay in my comfy seat (with incredible views) and tell my friends to join me when they wished. That began a late-afternoon experience capped off by a vivid sunset dinner overlooking Paris! It probably cost me €100 for my drinks and dinner, but it was an experience of a lifetime, and significantly cheaper than booking a table at the upstairs restaurant.

ZOOM Webinar TONIGHT – Exploring Beyond Europe

Join me tonight on this live Zoom Webinar. In less than an hour, you’ll learn all about our tours and experiences in THE SERENGETI and ECUADOR.  Register here.

7:30 P.M. EST

Please note the travel details, promotions, and offers mentioned in this TTT Dispatch are timed and dated and subject to change.