by David McGuffin | Jun 18, 2011 | Destinations, Eating & Drinking
Belém is located about 6 km west of Lisbon, on the Tagus River. Its name is derived from the Portuguese word for Bethlehem. There are four main sights: the Belém Tower, the Jerónimos Monastery, the Monument to the Discoveries and the Belém Pastry Shop.
The Jerónimos Monastary and Church of Santa Maria occupy a lot of ground just north of the river. Both the interior and exterior are decorated in a flamboyant style known as Manueline Gothic. This is very ornate with many nautical themed icons. The explorer, Vasco de Gama is buried here in the church.
The Belém Tower is also constructed in the Manueline Gothic style. The tower was part of the fortifications built to protect the monastery and the river. Originally, it sat in the middle of the river, but over the ages, the river banks have receded almost 400 meters, leaving the tower now at the present river’s edge.
The Monument to the Discoveries was constructed in 1960 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator. It stands on the river’s edge and is about 300 feet tall. There is an elevator in the monument that reaches a platform, providing grand vistas of the area.
There is a shop/restaurant in town that makes the famous Belém pastries. Known as pastel de nata or pastel de Belém, it is believed these were first made before the 18th century by the nuns of the nearby monastery. Nowadays, the famous shop sells these custard-filled, puff pastries hot and fresh out of the oven to thousands of people a day.
by David McGuffin | Jun 17, 2011 | Adventures in Tour Guiding, Essential Travel Resources
Jason Duckett is a friend who has traveled to Europe many times with me. He is heading off on his own with a group from Jacksonville, Florida to meet up with me next week in Rome. He, wrote this email to his group members offering the following pre-departure advice:
Oh boyoboyoboyoboyoboy, it’s almost here everyone!
I just scanned the weather for the first few days in Italy; it will be normal temps (low to mid 80’s) and I can promise you the humidity will be much lower than here in Florida and free of hazy smoky grossness as well. Switzerland in the 60’s, France in the 70’s. Aaaahhhh…….
Lorin and I did a practice pack the other day. I have so much room left in the suitcase, I might even bring one more shirt. Actually, I wont because I know the foolishness in overpacking. For the first time travelers, I beg you, please fight that urge to get out the bigger suitcase!! You dont need it and it throws off the schedule in Rome BIG TIME if we have to wait for your luggage at the baggage claim. Furthermore, I shudder to think what would happen if your bag didnt make it at all. Trade three of those extra outfits you’re cramming in the suitcase for a tiny bottle of detergent, rinse out some things in the Cinque Terre or Switzerland, and smile! Nobody will point and laugh that they have already seen you in that shirt. We are all friends here.
Some more random thoughts…
Tomorrow I will start getting to bed early and getting up earlier; I found adjusting my body clock here made it easier once we got overseas. Lorin will do it a little bit as well, but she seems to make the transition better than me. To fill those early, early mornings, I plan to walk. If you are not a big exercise person (and I am not), at least try to do some walking before we go. I mentioned it before but it bears repeating: we will walk a LOT on this trip. David walks at what I would refer to as a “band director pace,” which others might define as a moderate jog or as one person put it a few years ago, “I wish that
#$*&@% would slow down!” We have lots to see so I cant blame him. We do cover a lot of ground though, especially in the big cities and in the hills of the Cinque Terre, so be ready.
Last time I was in Florence, I found an old opera score in a used bookstore. I thought and thought about buying it but didnt. Later I decided to go for it, but we got turned around and couldn’t find the store. Yuck! If you see something you love, get it! You may never be there again. Volterra is full of alabaster and marble. Switzerland is great for watches and clocks (and chocolate). Wine is everywhere. Beaune has amazing food. Florence is great for leather and pashminka wraps. Jewelry is all over Italy and Paris is, well, Paris. Don’t go crazy, but do find something memorable to bring home. I WILL find that bookstore this time!
Make copies of your passport, driver’s license, and credit cards front and back, in case the unthinkable happens. Consider leaving a copy with someone at home, so they can make calls if needed. The money belt is a MUST HAVE on this trip.
When I called my cell phone company to let them know when and where I would be traveling, I got confirmation of the cost of phone calls (reasonable), texts (sort of reasonable), and the use of the internet, which was very very very unreasonable. If I had left my smart phone on for this trip and done the facebook posts, email checks, etc., the cost would have been in the hundreds of dollars! Confirm and reconfirm what using your phone will cost over there and adjust as needed. You might be able to buy an international plan (for a month then cancel) and every carrier is different. Call the bank and credit card companies to let them know of your travel or you might get denied when you want to make a purchase.
See you Monday bright and early at the airport. DONT FORGET YOUR PASSPORT!
Ciao!
Jason
by David McGuffin | Jun 14, 2011 | Culture & Customs, David's Journal, Destinations, Eating & Drinking
Fado in Coimbra is different than that of Lisbon. In Coimbra, Fado centers around the university community and is sung by men dressed in traditional academic capes, robes, and leggings. Like in Lisbon, it is accompanied by classical guitar and a specially tuned Portuguese guitar, but sounds totally different.
My group and I arrive early at A Capella, a small 14th century chapel turned tapas bar and Fado venue. The owner and chief Fado singer were practicing a rock and roll set scheduled for performance at 12 midnight. Luckily, we were able to preorder a set dinner menu of lamb or fish.
The actual Fado began at 9:20 p.m. and continued in four-song sets until midnight. We all enjoyed the performances of the male soloist and guitar ensemble.
The food was good and by the end of the evening, the chapel was packed with 80-100 people drinking, eating and enjoying the Fado experience.
by David McGuffin | Jun 13, 2011 | Culture & Customs, Destinations
England has Oxford, France has Le Sorbonne, Florida has Gainesville and Portugal has Coimbra. Yes, Coimbra is Portugal’s university town with lots of interesting things to see and do.
We arrived in Coimbra around 2 p.m. on a Saturday. Having never been there, I was not impressed with the hotel’s location in a sort of dumpy part of the new town near the station and the river. In fact, the hotel staff had to convince me that Coimbra was worth an overnight stay. As it turned out, the Hotel Oslo has a wonderfully helpful staff, a good location to the sights and clean and modern rooms. I am glad I stayed in Coimbra.
I split up my afternoon at a medieval fair in the Cathedral Square and down by the river in a shady park. My friends Susan, Mrs. Mc and Lindsay are traveling with me on this whirlwind trip through central Spain and Portugal. Consequently, we kind of take it slow and easy because Mrs. Mc is a bit fragile and about 25 years older than me. However, she is a trooper and is willing to try and do almost anything. When it comes to climbing up and down steep cobbled lanes, stairs, and paths… it’s slow, but steady, going.
Today, the climb from the river to the top of town was crowded with about 3,000 people attending the medieval fair and once we arrived at the cathedral square we all knew it was not the place for us. There were all sorts of meat being cooked and sold right off the spit. Beer and wine were flowing freely and local were dressed in medieval period costumes acting out their various roles. If it were not so hot and crowded it could have been fun, but with steep streets and unsure footing, this was not a pleasant experience.
Down by the riverside was a different story. Pleasantly cool and shady, we all could have taken a nap on a park bench. Instead, we enjoyed a drink at the riverside cafe while watching local children learning to sail in their own little one-man sailboats.
Afterward, we took advantage of the traditional siesta by resting back at the hotel for a few hours.
by David McGuffin | Jun 10, 2011 | Destinations
Arrived here on a Friday afternoon, just as the local school was getting out for the summer vacation. Apparently, the school occupies an interior segment of El Escorial. El Escorial is the “summer palace” of Spain’s royal family. Built in the 16th century, it is still in pretty good shape today.
Just arrived from Atlanta this morning. Very pleasant… 72 degrees!
The Jerónimos Monastary and Church of Santa Maria occupy a lot of ground just north of the river. Both the interior and exterior are decorated in a flamboyant style known as Manueline Gothic. This is very ornate with many nautical themed icons. The explorer, Vasco de Gama is buried here in the church.
The Belém Tower is also constructed in the Manueline Gothic style. The tower was part of the fortifications built to protect the monastery and the river. Originally, it sat in the middle of the river, but over the ages, the river banks have receded almost 400 meters, leaving the tower now at the present river’s edge.
The Monument to the Discoveries was constructed in 1960 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator. It stands on the river’s edge and is about 300 feet tall. There is an elevator in the monument that reaches a platform, providing grand vistas of the area.
