When traveling for the first time, the cultural differences can catch you off guard. If you’ve done your research, you’ve probably heard of the big ones, like differences in tipping customs, for example. But the little things that you never expected to be different can really leave you at a loss. From sinks that are operated with foot pedals to toilets with fancy controls, a trip to the bathroom can be the most unexpected “tourist trap”. Here are some tips to navigating toilets, tubs and showers, and bidets abroad.
TOILETS
Public Toilets
For clarity’s sake let’s define a public toilet as any toilet outside a private home or your hotel room. Public toilets vary greatly from country to country in Europe. I’ll try to break it down by toilet type, starting with the best and moving to the worst.
Highway Rest Stops
These are usually the cleanest facilities you’ll find anywhere. Normally highway restaurants are spaced every 100 km or so along major four-laned limited-access highways. In France and Italy, you’ll be expected to give a tip or even pay an entrance fee to use these toilets. The usual cost is fifty euro-cents to one euro per person, so be prepared to have a few euro coins available. In Germany and Austria, you’ll be expected to pay an “admission” fee of a euro or so to enter the toilet area. Upon entering you’ll receive a ticket, be sure to keep it because it can be turned in at the cash register in the store or restaurant for a credit against items purchased.
Toilet facilities can vary widely in restaurants and my general rule is to stay out of them if you can. Most restaurants, especially in towns and cities, are located in century-old buildings which were not originally built with toilets in mind. Consequently, they have been retrofitted with bathrooms that range from disgusting to adequate. The toilets can be especially lousy in restaurants found in France and Italy where they are usually located in a basement or cellar. The worst toilets date from the early 20th century and are basically a simple hole in the floor with a foot rest on either side. Simply step up, aim, go, and drip dry. Others can be a bit more user friendly initially, but flushing can become a problem. The best solution is to look up for something to pull, look down for some to push, or look around for something to lift up or push down. Of course there are clean and modern toilets too, but you’ll need no help with those. Unless it is one of those fully automatic models, in which case you’ll need to move quickly!
Step right up and go!
Amsterdam
In Amsterdam there are public urinals unlike anything I’ve ever experienced. Imagine a pristine canal-side scene: swans floating serenely, bikes cluttering bridges, little boats floating by with couples in love, pastel classical buildings lining the lovely canals, and you’ve got a front row view from the public “pissor”! These public urinals date back a hundred years to the age of art nouveau and the turn of the 20th century. I can’t imagine turn-of-the-century gentlemen needing to go so badly that these things just had to be out canal-side, but who knows? Keep in mind, this description is for real! In Amsterdam (and in Brussels too, I’ve been told) there are public urinals for men. These urinals, known as “pissors” are constructed of thin sheet metal, painted green in color, and divided from the ground up into thirds. The lower third is uncovered and exposes the subject’s (a.k.a. the pisser’s) legs up to the knee. The middle third is constructed of thin, but solid sheet metal covering the “pisser” from the knees to the waist. The final third of the “pissor” is made of sheet metal with small cut-outs in a “plus-sign” design to enable the “pisser” to look out (and the passersby to look in). What a concept! Now for you guys, let me explain what’s going on inside—other than peeing that is. Basically, you walk into this “nautilus” shaped contraption. Once to the center you encounter a flat piece of steel, on which you are to pee, and below is a simple hole in the ground. So while you are standing there doing your business, your pee is splashing all over you, but you’ve got a grand view of all of Amsterdam! There is nothing like it. Try it once just for the thrill!
Automated Toilets
These public toilets are usually found in big cities in France or Belgium and cost about a euro to use. The entire toilet complex is a kiosk which is normally clean and pretty sterile. Here’s how to use these toilets: look at the control panel beside the door; determine if the toilet is occupied or vacant; once vacant press the button and enter; do your business; exit the toilet kiosk. Once you exit, the kiosk will go into self-cleaning mode and spray water, cleaner, and disinfectant all over the interior. Then the entire interior is blown nice and dry. Once the cleaning cycle is completed, the outside door panel will display that the toilet is ready for another customer.
Tubs and Showers
Bathing is necessary and we tend to take it seriously. I mean, how many of you go more than a day without a bath or shower? Well that’s a whole different story in Europe, where daily bathing has just come into vogue in the past few decades. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve stood on crowded subways or buses and been stifled by body odor. So… it’s no wonder that not much thought goes into planning European bath and shower facilities. Today, most newly constructed two-star hotels in Europe have private baths locate en-suite. Most all three-star hotels (old and new) have private baths en-suite. This simply means that sometime in the past ten years, a hotel owner has taken an already small room with no bath or toilet facilities and added an even smaller room with a sink, toilet and tub or shower. But for American travelers, those en-suite facilities are essential. So, here is my “run down” on bathing in each country.
I travel in Europe over 100 days a year sleeping in a different hotel, guesthouse or B&B every other night. It is interesting to note that there is absolutely no standardization in shower and tub water controls. On a recent tour in Scotland and Wales, my travel partners and I had a laugh each morning when we discussed what type of water controls we encountered the night before. Twelve nights and twelve totally different faucets and controls!
Italy
Just last week I was checking out some hotels in Italy and ran across a bathroom that had a sink and toilet, then on the same level there was a curtain dividing the shower area. Now having the shower on the same level as the rest of the room is common for Italy. I often laugh because in an Italian bathroom, it is possible to use the toilet, brush your teeth, and take a shower all at the same time. Well this particular “shower area” had a bidet sticking precariously out from underneath the shower curtain too. Talk about multitasking!
France
Bathrooms are generally small in France. As with Italy, many of the hotels have retro-fitted bathrooms into already small bedrooms. Most often you’ll find a shower, sink, toilet and bidet. Newer hotels come equipped with modern showers and sometimes even tubs.
Spain
Think of Italy without bidets.
Germany and Austria
Bidets are not common here and you’ll also find a better selection of tubs. In many of the larger cities that were destroyed during WWII, you’ll find relatively new and modern hotels featuring bathrooms similar to those back home.
UK
Like France, many of the UK’s hotels are older properties dating from a time when en-suite baths were not common. You’ll find city center hotels similar to those in France. The UK is loaded with B&B’s. These are often private homes located in rural areas that the owners have opened to rent out a room and serve breakfast. These offer a great value and usually come with up-to-date bath facilities. Although it is still common to find “bathrooms-down-the-hall” in B&B’s, it is usually well publicized so you won’t be caught off guard.
Ireland
Here you’ll find mostly up-to-date hotels and B&B’s. Yes, there are exception, so be sure to look at the sales literature or website before booking.
Now certainly there are exceptions to every rule. Every country mentioned sports fancy four- and five-star hotels with huge rooms, marbled baths and air conditioning. You’ll pay extra for this style, but for some it is worth it.
BIDETS
Most of us Americans get a kick out of an encounter with a bidet. To many, it’s often intriguing, entertaining, funny, or even sexy in an odd sort of way. But in many parts of the world, it’s a normal fixture in the bathroom. In French, bidet comes from the word for “pony.” How appropriate, because you ride a bidet much like you would a pony. That is… straddling it.I take a lot of Americans around Europe and believe me, I’ve heard lots of “bidet” stories. Here are some ways in which my tour members have utilized the bidets in their hotel rooms:
a foot washer
a water fountain
a urinal
a place to shave one’s legs
an object for playing “Truth and Dare”
a replacement for bathing
a laundry
a dishwasher
a cooler for beer and wine
Bidets originated in France several centuries ago as a means to wash after using the toilet, after having sex, or even after a day at the office. In short, its purpose is to maintain clean personal hygiene without taking a full shower or bath. So, now you know why lots of Europeans think they are clean when their pits smell to high heaven!
How to use a Bidet
Test the water controls before getting on! Some bidets have high pressure jets that squirt up to the ceiling if turned fully on. Others have a faucet similar to a sink. Some have hot and cold water valves while others have just one water valve. The point here is to SLOWLY test out all the knobs, valves, and controls before getting on.
If you are wearing pants, you have got to take them off! Otherwise hike up your skirt or dress. Then straddle the bidet, facing the wall, so you’ll have full control of the knobs, controls, and valves. Then, by positioning yourself and the faucet, direct the water to the area you want to clean. It’s ok to use soap and your hands. Some people prefer to face away from the wall and manipulate the controls in a contorted manner. I ran across this hilarious video on YouTube that shows you how to do it from a Spaniard’s perspective. Check it out:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cunTYbi9yM
Once finished, use toilet paper to dry off. The towels hanging by the bidet are to dry off your hands after the whole procedure. Don’t stick the towels down there to dry off, or you’ll hear it from the maids the next morning!
My Toilet Story
I was at a restaurant along the Autostrade in Italy where we’d made a stop for lunch. These restaurants are located conveniently every fifty kilometers or so along the major highways in Europe. They have great food, either from a buffet or from a selection of fresh-made sandwiches, and they offer clean bathrooms. When making a tour bus stop, the first thing everyone does is rush off the bus and head to the bathroom. These restaurants (branded as Autogrill) usually have the bathrooms downstairs which are maintained by a female attendant who keeps the bathrooms sort of spotlessly clean. This “cleanliness” usually comes with a compulsory fee of fifty to eighty euro cents per visit to the toilet, but it’s a small price to pay for a clean toilet!
Well, this particular day, the restrooms were booming with business and the lady attendant was having a tough time keeping up with collecting her “tip” and keeping the bathrooms clean. So when I went downstairs and deposited my change in her dish, I noticed the ladies’ line for the toilet was about twenty deep. There was no wait for the men’s room, which I guess you ladies will say is typical.
I walked in the men’s room and headed for the urinal which was just a ceramic tiled trough against the wall. It was “backed up” with guys “going” so I did have to wait here! While waiting, there was a commotion in the hallway. Women were speaking loudly in rapid-fire Italian, only some of which I could understand. But the general tone and message was, “We’re not waiting out here any more, let’s overtake the men’s room!” Moments later, the men’s room was invaded by several Italian women looking for an open stall. Well I had to go, and now it was my turn! So up I stepped, down with the zipper, and …uhmm you get it, right? OK, now I was ready to go, but all the confusion behind me had caused a momentary “blockage.” So there I stood doing nothing! Concentrating real hard and focusing on the wall right in front of me, I began to go… relief! Then to my horror, I felt something hitting my shoes. Had I missed? Looking down I saw a grey mop being swished back and forth between my feet, and behind me holding the handle was the lady attendant going about her business of keeping the toilets tidy!
Summary
I hope this article has given you the confidence to boldly face the bathrooms in Europe. Just remember, public toilets vary in quality. Your best bet is a highway rest stop or a fully automated toilet on the street. The more modern your hotel, the more likely you will encounter the bathing facilities you are used to in the US. Be sure to check the website before booking to ensure your hotel or B&B has private bathrooms. In some countries, the bathroom will also have a bidet, which is meant for cleaning your nether regions.
If you found this article informative, please share it with your friends, family, coworkers and associates. If you have something to add, just leave a comment in the box below. Do you want to learn more about painted sheep and traveling to Europe? There is a wealth of information and special discount pricing on my tours at https://davidmcguffin.com/.
David McGuffin is Founder and CEO of David McGuffin’s Exploring Europe, Inc., based in Middleburg, Florida. You can connect with him on Twitter, Facebook, Google+,LinkedIn and YouTube. David spends his time in Europe organizing and leading small group and independent tours to European destinations. In business since 2001, David has provided exceptional travel opportunities to several thousand satisfied customers. You can find out more about David and his European tours at his website, https://davidmcguffin.com.
It’s great to see the famous sights and big cities when traveling, but the real memories are made in off-the-beaten-path adventures where you get to slow down and experience the country, not just watch it fly by through a tour bus window. The best vacations include a combination of the two. Don’t get me wrong; there are a lot of benefits to traveling on a tour. Tours allow you to travel care-free, with no planning. But sometimes, you have to just wing it and see where the adventure will lead. Here is a story from one of my trips to France and the surprising places you can find when things don’t go as planned.
After a flight up from Madrid, we arrived at Paris’ Charles de Gaulle airport by mid-afternoon. I rented a small car and soon we were out of the airport and on the highway toward Paris. It being Friday afternoon, I was prepared for some traffic jams, but so far it didn’t seem too bad. The highway leaving the airport was virtually free of cars, but by the time we reached the Périphérique, Paris’ big ring-road around the city center, we were in bumper-to-bumper traffic. It wasn’t quite at a standstill, but we were inching along at less than 10 mph.
Traffic jam outside of Paris
Knowing Paris, I figured we were in store for at least an hour of stop-and-go traffic. But surely by the time we turned off the Périphérique and headed southwest it would thin out to nothing. After two hours and less than 20 kilometers, I knew it would be hours before reaching Amboise. To make matters worse we had no hotel reservation, no real plan for the next two days, and no plans for the night’s dinner. What we did know was that reaching Amboise in the afternoon was now out of the question. Luckily I had my GPS unit with me and we got it up and running. After another hour on the highway, in the miserable traffic, we finally found a two-lane road that would take us through the countryside to the Loire Valley. Well anything would be better than sitting in traffic for hours on end…so we took the little road.
Immediately the road was clear, and it was smooth sailing. Until we came to the first town. Friday afternoon must be the time for everyone to get out and go somewhere because there was loads of traffic. Although, it was nowhere near as bad as what we had encountered on the highway. The next hour passed with us speeding along our way in the rural areas between each little town and then slowing down in the town centers. This wasn’t bad though. We got to experience several small rural towns in France.
By now it was getting late, probably close to nine o’clock. I’d planned on finding a hotel in Amboise, but that was still an hour away. It really didn’t matter what time we arrived as long as we could get rooms for the night and a good meal. We were somewhere along the Loire River near Chambord when I saw it…and drove right on by. We had a goal and destination in mind, but that place back there looked like my kind of place. So at the next round-a-bout I did a 180 and decided to go back to check it out.
La Ferme des 3 Maillets
The place was an old two-story stone building with ivy climbing up the side. There, in huge painted-on letters, was a sign advertising “Hotel** and Grill.” Even with my limited French vocabulary I could tell we could find rooms and food. As I pulled into the gravel parking lot I knew I’d made a good choice. There were several cars and the people milling around were all speaking French. I walked into the lobby and really had to dig deep into my French vocab to ask if they had two rooms and dinner. The lady at the desk said “no problem” offered a really good price and booked our dinner for us too.
We settled in and then walked back downstairs for dinner. The restaurant was just what you’d think a farmhouse grill would look like in the US. In sort of the “Cracker Barrel” style, there were ancient tools and other decor hanging from the walls and ceiling. On one wall there was a huge stone fireplace, complete with a cozy fire. Large picture windows looked out onto a little garden and the wheat fields beyond. I think we were one of the last seatings of the evening because all the other tables were either empty or filled with people involved in dessert or conversation.
The food was wonderful! Natalie and I had escargot, an assortment of duck, steak, vegetables, and dessert. All was washed down with a local Loire Valley wine. La Ferme des 3 Maillets is one of those rare finds that only happen if you let go of your inhibitions and get off the beaten path. Even though the staff spoke very little English and Natalie and I spoke very little French, we all managed to get our points across and have a great time.
Often, I have people ask about the idea of the “French being a bit arrogant.” First of all, I don’t buy into the idea and secondly, experiences like this one are proof that this is just a stereotype. The staff at the inn were wonderfully hospitable and went out of their way to make our dinner and our stay a grand experience. I’d go out of my way to eat and stay here again.
Summary
So when you’re traveling, just remember not to panic when things don’t go as expected. It is often the unplanned adventures like this one that turns out to be the most fun. And if you are ever in the Loire River Valley near the town of Avaray, find La Ferme des 3 Maillets, stay a night, have a great dining experience, and really get a chance to explore another side of France.
If you found this article informative, please share it with your friends, family, coworkers, and associates. If you have something to add, just leave a comment in the box below. Do you want to learn more about painted sheep and traveling to Europe? There is a wealth of information and special discount pricing on my tours at https://davidmcguffin.com/.
David McGuffin is Founder and CEO of David McGuffin’s Exploring Europe, Inc., based in Middleburg, Florida. You can connect with him on Twitter, Facebook, Google+,LinkedIn and YouTube. David spends his time in Europe organizing and leading small group and independent tours to European destinations. In business since 2001, David has provided exceptional travel opportunities to several thousand satisfied customers. You can find out more about David and his European tours at his website, https://davidmcguffin.com.
I am writing today from the island of Ortigia near Siracusa, Sicily. I am a little more than halfway through my Best of Sicily Tour and boy are we having fun traveling off-season and off the beaten tourist path. My group is small, just two single ladies, but we’ve seen and experienced a lot together these last eight days.
We began a week ago in Palermo. It sputtered rain on and off for two days, but we managed to get most of our sightseeing in between showers. The local markets and the historic town center topped our sightseeing, as did a trek to visit the Catacombe dei Cappuccini where more than 8,000 Palermitans are hung out to wither and dry in the crypt under the neighborhood church. Here we saw perhaps the most disturbing of all the dead folks, the perfectly preserved body of 2-year-old Rosalia Lombardo who died in 1920. See a picture here.
We also enlisted our hotel chef to teach us how to prepare arancini, a traditional dish in every Sicilian kitchen. After several hours of preparing and cooking the round, risotto-based “orange-sized” food balls, it was a delight to sit down and taste the fruits of our labor. Arancini are a meal in themselves with a ragú or cheese center being wrapped in a tasty layer of fried rice.
Leaving Palermo, we’ve traveled counterclockwise around the island visiting Trapani, Marsala, Agrigento, Ragusa, and today in Siracusa. There is too much to tell about all our adventures, but a few highlights have been: tasting Marsala wine, visiting a 4th century BC Greek temple and having it all to ourselves with not a soul in sight, getting “lost” while driving in a small hilltown and having to navigate some very tight lanes to return to civilization, and enjoying wonderful food!
Trapani
Segesta
Marsala
Sicily is filled with fun-loving locals, fantastic destinations, and the best experiences Italy has to offer. I am coming back in September and would love to have you join me. Check out my Best of Sicily tour here.
We slept in this morning, knowing there would be plenty of time to explore Athens in the next few days. After breakfast, Charlotte and I checked out of the Electra Hotel and walked five blocks to their sister hotel, The Electra Palace. Normally, I do not change accommodations, but we are booking this trip as we go, not knowing from day-to-day what the next one holds.
The Electra Palace
The Electra Palace has one benefit over the Electra Hotel and that is its rooftop pool with grand views of the Acropolis. We are paying premium prices for our room here, but the benefit of having an “oasis” in the heart of Athens, plus the rooftop pool makes it a worthwhile expense.
Our tour “group” grows…
Our friend, Janey, arrived in Athens earlier this morning and was waiting for us in the hotel lobby. As expected, our rooms were not ready, so we gave the hotel a “once over” and headed up to the rooftop pool and bar area. We took a seat, with the Acropolis hovering over us in the distance, and sketched out a rough plan for our adventure in Greece.
I had been to Athens on three previous occasions, the first in 1977 (which I will continue to reference here in my writings), the second in the summer of 2006, and the last in December 2010. But beyond Athens (and the island day trips to Aegina, Porous, and Hydra), it is all going to be a new adventure. Our rough planned itinerary looks likes this: Athens, Delphi, Olympia, the Mani Peninsula, Napflio, and the island of Santorini.
A lazy afternoon at the pool…
Later, we checked into our rooms and while Janey napped off her jetlag, Charlotte and I changed into our bathing suits and headed to the pool. We enjoyed a relaxed lunch, cool dips in the pool, and great views of the Acropolis. We were so close I could see weary and over-heated tourist walking on the Acropolis, frantically trying to fit their sightseeing in during the hottest part of the day.
Me and my journal…
I became faithful with my journal entries in the summer of 1997. Since then, I’ve kept a pretty good record of things happening in my life and especially my travels. Over the years, my journal has become a companion and a place to escape, especially when traveling alone with no one to talk to. I enjoy putting my thoughts to paper and sketching. This afternoon, I tried to capture the mood and feel of the Acropolis with this sketch.
Sightseeing in the Plàka
Along about 5:30 p.m., we headed out for our sightseeing in the Plàka neighborhood. It was still hot and we stuck to the shady sides of the streets as we wound through the shopping streets, narrow lanes, past Byzantine-era churches, and the tourist oriented shops.
Ermou Street
Ermou is the main street leading from Sytagma Square into the Plàka. It once was filled with filth, loud traffic, and ugly signs. Since 2000, it has become a pedestrian-only area and both tourists and locals enjoys a stroll in this shopping oriented street.
Ermou Street
The Church of Kapnikarea
Athens was once a part of the vast Byzantine Empire which controlled much of Europe from A.D. 323-1453. This church, the Church of Kapnikarea, is a classic example of an 11th century Byzantine house of worship. Notice the classic Byzantine architectural designs including a red-tiled domed cupola topped with a cross and narrow and tall arched windows often with diamond-shaped trim.
The Church of Kapnikarea
Athen’s Cathedral
This church was built in 1842 and looks much worst for wear than other churches in the area dating from 600 years before! However, it is Athen’s most important Greek Orthodox church and the “head” church of the Greek Orthodox faith. It is in dismal condition! The interior and exterior are covered with scaffolding and shrouded in construction cloth. The placard outside does list a schedule of worship services… but ughh… I can’t imaging it here.
Athens Cathedral
Adrianou Street
This IS souvenir street! Adrianou Street runs from near the new Acropolis Museum, heads north, and then turns west to follow the lays of the Acropolis hill. For me, it is the “main drag” offering all the “Greek” trinkets and souvenirs. You’ll find it all… olive oils, olive wood, worry beads, jewelry, leather sandals, sponges, Pandora beads, Greek replica statues, t-shirts, and tons of stray cats!
Hello kitty
The Roman Forum and Tower of the Winds
The Romans conquered Greek about 150 B.C. and set up their own “Roman”-ized way of life. The Greek Agora (I’ll address that later) became a marble “boneyard” from which the “Roman” Athens was built. Now-a-days, this area is often called the Roman Agora, but the Roman’s called it the Forum. Like in Rome, it was the commercial center of the city. A place to shop, meet, see and be seen.
Much later, the Ottomans converted this area into a bazaar. There is a mosque here in the area, although its minarets were decapitated by the Greeks when they won their independence from the Ottomans in the 1800’s.
Roman Forum & Tower of the Winds
Notice also the eight-sided domed tower known as the “Tower of the Winds.” This tower was built in the 1st century B.C. and contains a clock, a guide to the planets, and a weathervane. The carved figures depict the “winds” as winged humans who fly in and bring the weather. Don’t bother asking anyone about the meaning of the eight ancient Greek symbols for the “winds.” I’ve found everyone makes up their own story… even the guides!
Tower of the Four Winds
Library of Hadrian
Hadrian was the Roman emperor in the 2nd century A.D. who had quite an affection for all things Greek. He had this library and civic center constructed for the Athenians. The building housed gardens, lecture halls, art galleries, and a library. Today, most of what you see is a reconstruction of one wall and a few Corinthian columns.
Library of Hadrian
Monastiraki Square
This is Athen’s second main city square loaded with old world class and style. The big building on the left is the metro station where tw0 train lines connect. From this square one could walk to the Archaeological Museum (1 mile to Omonia Square), feast on souvlaki (the typical Greek meat-on-a-stick fast food), wander into the old town, or or hop on the metro to zip off to far flung areas of town.
Monastiraki Square
By 7 p.m. we had experienced and seen the most important ancient and tourist sights in the Pàlka. Arriving at Monastriki Square and the Metro station, we decided to give the Ancient Agora a go. Following the Metro tracks, we soon came to the main Agora entrance and ticket booth.
Here’s a hint
Avoid long lines at archeological site ticket booths by arriving late in the afternoon. Alternatively, visit a lesser-known site entrance before the Acropolis. Purchase a €12 “strip ticket” for all the archeological sites in Athens including the Acropolis, Agora, Roman Forum, Keremikos Cemetery, Library of Hadrian, Theatre of Dionysus, and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. The ticket is valid for four days, and technically the attendant will tear off one “strip” for each site you visit. However, I did not have any collected except at the Acropolis. IF you purchase your ticket first at the Acropolis, then you’ll receive one ticket with a bar code that will be scanned at each site visited.
The Ancient Agora
Visiting the Ancient Agora during its final hour of the day was a good idea. Although the sun was still high and warm, there were only a few tourists milling around. We were able to see almost all the Agora sites in less than an hour, although it was a push to get up to the Temple of Hephaistos before the attendants began blowing their whistles to alert of the impending closing time of 8:00 p.m.
Temple of Hephaistos
This is one of the most well preserved of all Greek temples. Construction began here in 450 B.C. shortly after the entire Agora was destroyed by the invading Persians (480 B.C.). However, construction work stopped here while the Athenians concentrated on building the temples on the Acropolis, including the Parthenon. The temple is dedicated to Hephaistos, the “blacksmith” god and originally contained bronze statues of he and Athena.
Temple of Hephaistos
The temple was converted to a Christian church in 1300 A.D. and named the Church of St. George (the patron saint of Athens). Because of its continued use, the structure was maintained and kept up resulting in the wonderful condition in which we find it today.
The Agora in 1977
My notes, dated May 5, 1977, mention visiting the Temple of Hephaistos…
I got up at 6:15 am yesterday morning and walked down to the Temple of Zeus and took photos, then went to the Olympic Stadium and Royal Gardens. Doug and I then went and ate breakfast at the hotel. Then took an excursion to the ancient agora and the Theseion/Temple of Hephaistos and agora museum.
Here is the photo my friend Doug snapped of me standing in the temple. I recall back then we were allowed inside the temple and could actually see the ancient frieze in the alcoves depicting mythological battles between the Lapith tribe and a group of centaurs during a wedding feast.
Temple of Hephaistos 1977
Here is a photo Charlotte snapped of me in December 2010 during our visit to Athens. The temple has remained the same, I’ve not! Notice too that I was not allowed on the steps as the entire temple is fenced off.
Temple of Hephaistos 2010
Take the back gate for a speedy exit
We exited the Agora at the “back gate” up the hill in the direction of the Acropolis (Polygnotou “street” on your map). This put us up near the top (Prytaniou street) with great views of the Plàka and Athens to the north and the Acropolis looming just overhead to the south. We experienced a fantastic sunset and later, an almost full moon rising in the west.
Sunset over the Roman Forum
The Plàka is not flat.
It stretches consistently uphill until the slops of the Acropolis makes it impossible to build houses. Consequently, the “streets” are often no more than small cobbled pedestrian paths winding past shops, restaurants, and businesses. The farther uphill one wanders, the more steps and stairs are encountered.
Steps and more steps
One such place, called Mnisikleous, is known for a series of cobbled stairs stretching of 100 yards and lined with trendy restaurants offering good food, decent drinks, ok music, and plenty of ambience.
Mnisikleous Street dining
Capping off our day, we chose an outdoor restaurant known for authentic Greek food offered at very reasonable prices. Xenious Zeus is not a secret among tourist in Athens. This restaurant appears in all the guidebooks and is advertised as a place with good food and good prices. Since we were all the way up the hill, I thought we should give it a try.
.
For €12 we got a three-course meal featuring a selection of five Greek appetizers, called mezedes, a main course, and desert. We added a Greek Salad to share between the three of us. For a quick and unpretentious introduction to Greek cuisine, this place can’t be beat.
mezedes sampler
After dinner, we walked back to our hotel with a full moon rising in the west, our bellies full, and our bodies worn out. For me, this was the perfect mix of recovery, sightseeing, and dining to begin our adventures in Greece.
Why do sheep have patches of color painted on their wool?
Farmers “paint” their sheep for identification. Frequently, you’ll notice large pastures blanketed in green grass and dotted with sheep. Typically, these pastures are enclosed by stone walls or wire fences and are shared by multiple farmers. When it comes time to claim ownership of the animals roaming around hundreds of acres, a customized painted sheep is easy to identify.
Also, during the mating season, the male ram will be fitted with a bag of dye around its neck and chest. When mating, the ram mounts the ewe and a bit of dye is deposited on the ewe’s upper back. This way, the farmer knows which ewes have been impregnated and moves them on to another field away from the ram.
FACT: This webpage, “Painted Sheep” gets 500-700 visits per month. It is amazing how many people are searching for this term. Do me a favor, leave a comment and let me know if I answered your question.
Thanks, David McGuffin
WHO IS DAVID MCGUFFIN?
David McGuffin organizes, designs and leads tours to many European destinations. David’s tours are for strictly small groups ranging from 6 to 18 travelers.
Traveling with a small group means we can get off the beaten path and away from the big bus tours and experience Europe on a unique and personal level.
Eating well is also a priority, and you’ll get your fair share of fine food sourced locally by excellent chefs. David has spent decades poking around Europe’s nooks and crannies looking for unique restaurants, clean hotels with character and cozy B&Bs.
In Ireland, the top five counties in terms of sheep numbers are Donegal, Galway, Mayo, Kerry, and Wicklow. Each of these counties are located in hilly-mountainous areas of the country.
Ireland sheep flocks typically have 50 ewes or fewer. Compared to international standards, this is quite small. For example, Scotland averages 200 ewes per flock and the world largest exporter, New Zealand, average 1400.
Ireland only “keeps” 30% of it sheep for human consumption. The remaining meat is exported mostly to the UK and France.
According to a recent Irish livestock census, the island had 3.7 million sheep, 6.5 million cows, and 1.5 million pigs. With all that bacon showing up on the breakfast table this fact is going to require a little more investigation!
God intended sheep to mate in the fall and give birth in the spring when the weather would be more favorable for their survival. Therefore, sheep are known as “short day” breeders. When the days become shorter (in the autumn) this activates a hormone in the ewe’s brain that triggers the reproductive system into action.
During their fertile period ewes come into heat every 17 days or until the fertility period is complete. When in heat, the ewe flirts with the ram by wagging her tail, nudging, or cuddling.
When detecting a ewe in heat, a ram’s characteristic response is to lift his head in the air and curl his upper lip. Then, I suppose he goes for it!
A mature ram can mate with 100 or more ewes during the mating season.
The gestation period is about five months, give or take a week.
Ewes usually give birth (known as lambing) to one to three lambs.
Lambs go to “market” when they are less than one year old, and their meat is known as “lamb.” Mutton is the meat from lambs that are 1 year or older.
Wool, lanolin, and sheepskins are also products of sheep.
Finally, to leave a good taste in your mouth, about 1.3% of the world’s cheeses are products of sheep’s milk. So, the next time you try a piece of Roquefort, Feta, Ricotta, or Pecorino Romano, think about all these painted sheep!
Ireland is fast becoming my most popular tour destination. I’ve just returned home from leading a great group of people on my “Best of Ireland and Scotland” tour. Later this month, I return to the Emerald Isle for two more of my “Taste O’ Ireland” tours. Ireland (and Scotland) are a perfect destination for summer travels as the temperature rarely climbs above 68°F, the countryside is draped in 40 shades of green, and the photo ops for sheep are plentiful. We are scheduling tours for the summer of 2015, so keep an eye out for my tours to Ireland!
Traditional folk music and singing is a nightly occurrence in Ireland. No matter what town or village, I can always find a pub with a music session. These sessions vary according to the ability and style of the musicians, but are always filled with heartfelt choruses and toe tapping jigs. It is almost as if every person on the island pops out of their mother’s womb with a song instead of a scream.
I’ve been a musician all my life, so when I hear a band in the distance or a song wafting out the door, I go for a listen. I sometimes run across situations and events that are once-in-a-lifetime opportunities where I just happen to be in the right place at the right time. In Venice, I recall sitting in on an impromptu singing session with a few salty old fishermen belting out operatic arias. On successive trips to Venice, I’ve tried to duplicate that experience and have been disappointed. Try as I might, there is no way to “manufacture” these impromptu experiences for the folks on my tours. You’ve just got to be in the right place at the right time and let it unfold around you!
Knowing all this, I shouldn’t be surprised when a gem of an event unfolds around me. This time, it all started when I coaxed a few of my tour members into a deserted Irish pub. When I say deserted, I mean just that… there was not a soul in the place except for the bartender, and he looked like he was packing it up for the evening. In fact, when we asked for a pint of Kilkenny (the local ale), he had to go to the back and fiddle with the taps just to get the stuff flowing. I began making apologies to my group for bringing them in this desolate place, but the bartender had spent several minutes getting the taps to flow, so we felt obligated to stay and have a pint. There we were, just the six of us quietly sipping our pints and looking for an exit strategy.
This was the third night of the tour and our first night out of Dublin. I was hoping to introduce my group to some traditional small town pub music. But it seemed tonight would not be the night. So, instead of experiencing music, I decided to at least tell my group about the “typical” pub music session to get them prepared for a future musical evening. As I was explaining the typical fiddling and singing found in a pub music session, a gentleman walked in the door. Dianne, one of my tour members, asked him, jokingly, if he was the singer for tonight’s session. He said no, he had just come in for a pint after playing two rounds of golf, but if we wait a bit we might coax one of his friends to belt out a song or two.
Over the course of the next fifteen minutes, the pub filled with 20 or so Irishmen who were in Kilkenny on a golf outing. They told us this was a yearly get together to play golf, have fun, and get away from their wives (said with a joke and a laugh). So, the first gentleman says to his buddy, “this lady wants to know if you are the singer.” We all expected a laugh and a swift no, but to our surprise he stood up and belted out a heartfelt ballad about “Annie Moore”, Ireland’s first immigrant to the United States.
Then began a chain reaction where each man stood and sang his favorite song. All was done a cappella, without accompaniment, and from the heart. They took great pride in their singing and in the message of the song. We were an audience of six Americans who were looking for some music, and boy did we get it! By the end of the night we were invited to join them in “God Bless America”, finally finishing the session at midnight belting out “cockles and mussels… alive, alive oh.”
[space height=10] You would think with six of us witnessing this impromptu singing session we would have taken some video. Unfortunately, all were having too much fun to waste time on video. So, this short segment is all I have to offer. You’ve just got to be at the right place at the right time! [space height=10] [column col=”1/2″] [youtube height=”200″ width=”290″ align=”left”]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pw4yqb8s9hI[/youtube][/column] [column col=”1/2″ last=”true”]
Why do sheep have patches of color painted on their wool?
David McGuffin organizes, designs and leads tours to many European destinations. David’s tours are for strictly 
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