by David McGuffin | Nov 20, 2011 | 1997 Journal Series, Adventures in Tour Guiding, David's Journal, Destinations, Experiencing Europe
I’m chronicling my first European Band Tour in 1997. This tour was instrumental in formulating my group travel philosophy and standards. Ultimately, it gave me knowledge, confidence, and practical experience that I needed to begin touring on my own.
Continuing my journal entry and retrospective comments…
June 7, 1997
I was a jarred awake by my alarm at 7:00 a.m.! Since this was the first night I’d slept in a bed for two days, I really was not in the mood to get up and get moving. It had been very warm last night while I was trying to drift off to sleep. But once sleep came, I was out for the duration. In retrospect, I am glad I did not have any “chaperoning” duties, because I’m afraid I would have been caught sleeping on the job! However, I suspect the other adults were just as worn out as me. I’m not quite sure how or what the “kids” did throughout the night. I hope they slept!
I am in the breakfast room trying to write this entry and get some food. We were served a “continental” breakfast consisting of a hard roll, croissants, jelly, butter, coffee or tea, and watery orange juice. Although this is a typical French breakfast, it is rather institutionalized, being served in a sterile basement cafeteria on paper and plastic trays.
After breakfast, we assembled on the front “lawn” of our hotel to meet our bus and driver. While waiting, one of the kids stepped in a pile of French dog poop. The sidewalks are littered with this stuff at seemingly every tree or bush. So, after waiting for him to clean up, we boarded the bus for a tour of Paris’s historic landmarks.
The Cathedral “Notre Dame” wowed everyone with its twin bell towers, flying buttresses, and huge stained glass rose-shaped windows. This is only my second trip to Paris and I am trying to take it all in, when it comes to the sights. Lisa took time to point out some features of Notre Dame, such as the bas-relief carvings over the front door depicting God’s judgement of the dead. Seeing those goulish demons on God’s left, descending to hell, is enough to make anyone walk the straight and narrow! Lisa also pointed out the carving of the headless St. Denis, near the left exit doors, and his significance as one of the patron saints of Paris.
After visiting Notre Dame, we boarded the bus and drove down the river passing the Latin Quarter (known so for the “education” that has occurred here). Crossing the river we saw the Louvre, Tullieries, Champs Elysée, the Arch de Triomphe, and finally to the Trocadero. Stopping here, we got off the bus and enjoyed a fantastic view of the Eiffel Tower. Back on the bus, we drove a few blocks to the Opéra neighborhood, where we had free time for shopping and lunch.
Several decided to have lunch at one of the many cafés lining the grand “Boulevard de l’Opéra.” I enjoyed “moules” (mussels) cooked in wine, herbs, and garlic butter and all the bread I cared to eat. Charlotte and Aunt Hilda had French Onion Soup, which I think was better than Bern’s. Mom had some salmon spread with salad. We also had a bottle of slightly chilled red wine from the Loire region, which went well with our meals. [WINE NOTE: Loire Valley-COULY-DUTHEIL Saumier Champigny 1996 46F]
After lunch, we rode our bus to the Musée du Louvre. As a group, we entered at the portal near “Rue Rivoli” and were set free to wander on our own. Several joined Charlotte and me to follow the “Rick Steves Guidebook” tour. It worked pretty well, but this is a big museum and after two hours, we had had about all we could stand. Looking for a place to sit and rest, we discovered a café on the top veranda of the Denon wing that served a refreshing orange drink known as ‘Orangina.’ This café was a cool and refreshing change from the crowded galleries and halls. It also provided a great view of the inner courtyard and modern pyramid entrance.
From the Louvre, we walked to the ‘La Boucherie’ Restaurant, where we had dinner. The menu was the best yet: salad, wonderful mashed potatoes, and steak.
After dinner, Lisa led a walking tour in the direction of the Pompidou, a modern art center. The walk from the restaurant to the Pompidou was fine, but the area immediately surrounding the Pompidou Center was dirty and a bit seedy. A little later, we met our bus and driver at the Bourse and drove to the Eiffel Tower.
The famous tower complex was engulfed with crowds when we arrived at 9:30 p.m. (the sun does not set until 10:30). Right away, Lisa purchased our tickets. After standing in line for about thirty minutes, we were on our way to the top.
Over the months leading up to our trip, Brian had been worried about the elevator trip up to the top. He has always been afraid of heights, roller coasters, and the like, so as we ascended, it seemed that the elevator cabin would never stop going up, and up, and up. We crammed Brian in the center of the cabin, and everyone crowded around him. Actually, there were so many people in the cabin, we felt like the proverbial “can of sardines.” I watched as the horizon disappeared into the skyline. Finally, the elevator stopped. We were at the top and all was well! From the summit, the Paris skylines twinkled with millions of amber lights. The hustle, bustle, and traffic noise of the city, 900 feet below, was replaced by silence interspersed with “wows,” “oohhs,” and “ahhhs.” As we were leaving, someone noticed a fireworks display off to the east. Watching that from “above” was a unique experience that I’ll never forget.
The trip back down was extremely crowded; we had to wait in a long line to change elevator cabins on level two, but we were back on the ground by 11:40 p.m. Once again, we returned, by Métro, to our hotel. After an hour on the subway, I was once again tuckered out and ready for bed.
Memories from today: Matt left the drummer’s bag containing all their sticks on the Paris bus; he and his dad spend much of the day tracking the bus down and recovering the sticks. Kissing Charlotte at the top of the Eiffel Tower was a highlight! We walked many miles. Lunch with my family was a treat. I took pleasure in watching my students experience Paris while having fun with their friends. Today was one of those days that makes me happy and fulfilled to be a teacher!
That’s it for this entry; it is 1:50 a.m. and we are due for another 6:30 a.m. wake-up call. I had better get some sleep.
-David
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2011 Reflections:
I remember we did a lot of riding on the bus from one sight to the next that morning. Rules for buses and emissions have drastically changed since those days. Now, buses are not permitted to drop off and pick up passengers at the major tourist sights in the city center. Other cities such as London, Rome, and Florence impose incredibly high fees for tour buses to enter the “tourist zones.”
Today, when in Paris, my tour groups do quite a bit of walking and riding the Métro. Walking and experiencing public transportation is exactly what “Exploring Europe” is all about. Doing so requires that one learn to live like a local, speak some of the languages, and experience Paris from an insider’s perspective. I think it’s the only way to travel!
ORANGINA – Based on my journal entry, I suppose this was the first time I’d run across “Orangina.” I recall we were so parched and tired from “touring” the Louvre, that the cafe was a welcomed sight for sore feet! The little bottle of “Orangina” was chilled (unlike the soda we had been drinking) and served with a cute matching glass filled with several cubes of ice!
French Onion Soup and my reference to “Bern’s.” – Bern’s Steakhouse is located in Tampa, Florida, and ranks #1 on my list of favorite restaurants. I began going the “Bern’s” in the early 1980’s as a guest of Roger Mayer, a musical instrument dealer. Ever since my first visit, it has set my standard for many food types, such as French onion soup. You can read my blog article about Bern’s by following this link.
The EIFFEL TOWER’S Countdown Clock – Throughout the late 1990’s the Eiffel Tower sported a digital “countdown” to the year 2000. Notice, here in 1997, we were 938 days before January 1, 2000.
LOOK AT WHAT WE WERE WEARING! – From these pictures, I can tell I had not yet formulated my travel attire opinions. Short shorts and tee-shirts would never make it on my packing list these days. Look at me! I’m the “typical American tourist” with my aviator-style sunglasses, an LL Bean canvas hat, shorts, ankle-high hiking boots, and that huge backpack! Why am I wearing those sunglasses on the Métro, at night?
THE BEST DINNER YET? – Notice my comments about the meal at “Restaurant La Boucherie,” “Salad, WONDERFUL mashed potatoes, and steak.” I think “comfort food” reminding us of home. I have no doubt, the food was good. Even today the mashed potatoes and steak sounds great. However, there is so much more in the way of “French” food to be had in Paris.
This is a photo I snapped of our “starter” course on a recent 2011 tour in Paris. Chilled tomato soup (gazpacho) with fresh salmon was a savory hit with my travel partners. This was followed by a choice of three main dishes and dessert. At Exploring Europe, I typically spend 20-30 euro per person for evening dining experiences.
That “best-yet” meal we devoured at “La Boucherie” would go for about seven euros in today’s tourism dollars. For a “taste and see” culinary tour, consider reading my blog article featuring dining experiences on my 2011 Scotland and Ireland tour.
ONE HOUR Métro commute to our Paris hotel – While staying in central Paris is expensive, I think it is a sensible splurge to enhance one’s total tour experience. As we found out, the “Residence Internationale de Paris” was on the outskirts of Paris, far away from the tourist attractions. I am sure the tour company got it for a bargain and considered it adequate for the type of tour they were running. But, I’ve learned from experience, it is better to spend a little more for a safe, clean, and city-centered hotel.
Go to Episode 4
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by David McGuffin | Nov 14, 2011 | Adventures in Tour Guiding, David's Journal, Destinations, Experiencing Europe
I’m chronicling my first European Band Tour in 1997. This tour was instrumental in formulating my group travel philosophy and standards. Ultimately, it gave me knowledge, confidence, and practical experience that I needed to begin touring on my own.
Continuing my journal entry and retrospective comments…
“June 6, 1997
Our flight arrived at Paris’ Charles De Gaulle Airport at 9:15 a.m. After clearing Customs, we were met by Lisa, our EF tour guide. The bus ride from the airport to central Paris was filled with excited travelers, marveling at the signage in a “foreign language,” checking out the smaller and faster cars on the highway, and trying to locate the Eiffel Tower on the skyline.
So far, Lisa is doing a great job, although we have not done much. We transferred, by private bus, to our hotel, ‘Residence Internationale de Paris, 44 rue Louis Lumiere.This place is in a residential area with quite an eclectic population. On first sight, it appears to be okay; it is comfortable, but a little hot. There is no air conditioning in the rooms. I believe this place is known as a “residence,” because it appears there are people living here on long-term contracts. Actually, many of the “residents” appear to have physical disabilities, so perhaps this place is some sort of a rehabilitation facility that rents out rooms as well.
After settling in, we gathered in a conference room. Lisa presented a tour overview, made introductions, and briefed us on Paris and how to navigate the Métro. Shortly, we plan to go out and visit Paris.
Leaving the hotel, we took the Métro to the Montmartre area. This journey required a change of trains in an underground Métro station. It was a bit scary trying to keep up with everyone, making sure they made the switch and got on the correct train. Most of the group had never ridden a subway, so the entire process was a learning experience. Everyone made the journey, without getting lost, upset, or robbed!
Exiting the underground, at the Anvers Métro station, was a cultural shock for all of us. While Lisa was interested in pointing out the historic Art Nouveau Métro sign, I was interested in keeping my group together, safe, and away from the vagabonds and winos littering the street. Apparently, we had “popped out” of the Métro in the median of the Boulevard de Clichy, a place known for sex shops, prostitutes, vagrants, and rubbish.
Things went from bad to worse as we crossed the street and began our en-mass tourist trek up the dirty street toward the Sacré Coeur. Michael, one of the parents on my tour, was targeted as a prime candidate for pick-pocketing by a gang of small “gypsy” children. I can’t blame them; Michael was wearing a large backpack and had several cameras strung around his neck. That getup, combined with khaki pants, white tennis shoes, and a straw hat, pegged him for sure as an American tourist. On more than one occasion, he had to literally beat off the gypsy kids who were trying to pick his pocket.
Finally, we reached the end of that crowded street, coming to a park with several steep stairways leading up to the Sacré Coeur, a beautiful white church at the top of the hill. I thought, “Whew, we survived that and are finally to safety.” We all huddled around Lisa, like she was our mother hen, listening to her “speil” about the area and its history. Then, just when I was beginning to relax, thinking all my kids were safe, she suggested we split up and get lunch on our own. Alarm bells went off inside my head. I was very hesitant to “release” my students to go wander the neighborhood in search of food. So instead, we all just walked across the street and bought lunch at a hot dog stand.
Lunch consisted of a hot dog with cheese (15FF) and a Diet coke (10FF). HA! What a great way to begin a tour to France with such a gourmet meal.
After lunch, we hiked up the steps to the Basilica and went inside. The interior was disappointing, as it was under renovation with scaffolding all over the place. However, the views from here are great; you can see all of Paris looking South across the river. If you leaned out and look beyond the trees to the right, you can even see the Eiffel Tower.
Leaving the Basilica Sacré Coeur, we walked toward the Bohemian-inspired area known as Montmartre. In the early 20th century, starving artists, musicians, and dancers lived here together in a commune. This enclave became famous for cheap rent, all-night parties, sleepy days, and artistic creativity. Today, the place is still filled with artists gathering to sketch, draw, and sell portraits. Sarah, Sabrina, and Carey finally caved into the artists constant hounding; they “commissioned” sketches at a cost of 20FF for a black and white sketch to 150FF for a color portrait.
I am feeling okay, not too much jet-lag! But, I think this is due to my sleeping on the flight to Paris last night. Holly has become sick and thrown-up, and Leslie is not feeling well either. All I can remember is how I felt in Amsterdam in 1995, so I sympathize with them.
From Montmartre, we went by subway to the old marketplace with outside fruit vendors known as Rue de Sentier (MO:Sentier). After a brief walk through some heavy traffic, we arrived at the “les Halles” gardens, more specifically the Place René Cassin. My son, Brian, decided to bring his skateboard on this tour. So, today, our first day in Paris, here he was toting it around all day on his special backpack designed to carry a board. Then we arrived at Henri de Miller’s 70-ton statue known as “ecoute,” translated as “listen” in English.
By this time, my hearty lunch had worn off, so I was excited to eat at our first “real” French restaurant for dinner. Apparently, it was a big French chain-type restaurant known as ” Hippotamus.” Here, we dined on the gourmet French delicacies of white rice, chicken ka-bobs, lettuce with dressing, and chocolate mousse. I purchased a “Coke Light” for 10FF.
After eating, we took the Métro back to the hotel. It was a forty-five-minute ride with one transfer. When I finally got to my room, I was totally worn out and fell asleep immediately. I think the kids stayed up most of the night playing cards in our third-floor lobby area. Occasionally, when I woke up, I could hear them outside my door.
2011 Reflections-
If I remember correctly, clearing security and customs was a breeze. It was in the “old” Terminal I, Charles De Gaulle. I remember thinking that I’d seen those inclined escalators and walkways (housed in a tube) in a James Bond movie. Today that place seems so “old” and run down. In 2007, we went through Terminal I several times, and it seemed they were always working on the place with new sheetrock, barriers, and layouts. Now, in 2011, remodeling is still in progress, but just minor painting and traffic routing. The “escalator tubes” still harken back to the 1970’s, but in a nice nostalgic way.
Montmartre has not changed much in fifty years. When I took my students in 1997, Montmartre was exactly as it is today. Rounding the corner, as you head to the left of the Sacré Coeur, the local artists form a gauntlet of sorts and pester everyone about posing for a portrait or sketch. Many use the bait and switch tactic of snagging tourists as models so they can practice their artistic craft. Then, when the sketch is completed, insist on giving it away to the “model,” but only if they pay for it.
My advice is to avoid and ignore the initial onslaught of sketch artists and keep on walking. There are better professional artists in the Place du Tertre, the main square in Montmartre. In March 2011, after a week of “scouting” the artists, I finally broke down and paid for a color portrait. The artists, an elderly gentleman who looked like Santa Claus, held me captive for about forty-five minutes while making a pretty good pencil sketch of me.
Hot dogs and Diet Coke! What was I thinking! Nowadays I walk the 200+ steps to the Sacré Coeur, give everybody a chance to look around, catch their breath, and see inside the Basicila. Then, we head uphill and around the corner to Montmartre, fight the artist gauntlet, and visit Place du Tertre.
For a snack of soup, cheese, or salad, there is no place better than one of the cafes surrounding Place du Tertre. Combine that with a coffee or glass of wine and the ambiance is divine. For a more substantial dining experience, walk on down toward the windmill, and find a local place. I’ve got plenty of suggestions for dinner.
How about that exchange rate?!
15FF for a hotdog= $1.50USD back then
10FF for a coke light= $1.00USD
sketches and paintings 20FF-150FF=$4-20USD
Rue de Sentier, that’s near the Borse, and that’s just a short distance from the “market area” I referred to known as les Halles. This grand marketplace is no longer here; in fact, it was leveled in 1971 and replaced with a pitiful underground marketplace, now a major RER station.
The Hippopotomus! White rice, kabobs, etc is one of the main reason I decided to venture out on my own. There is so much more to Parisian cuisine than this!
And I can’t leave without discussing the hotel Residence Internationale de Paris. This place is okay, but it was way, way, way out on the outskirts of the city center. It took a 30 minute Metro ride with several changes just to get to the Latin Quarter. The neighborhood was a little sketchy with hookers on the streets between Metro stops. Don’t get me wrong; I even used this place once after founding my tour company, but there is a lot better to be had for the price in Paris.
Go to Episode 3
by David McGuffin | Nov 6, 2011 | Adventures in Tour Guiding, David's Journal
I’ve always been a little sentimental about memories. When I was a kid, I remember spending hours at my grandparents’ home looking through old black and white family photos. These photos were kept in the “middle room” in the bottom right drawer of a dresser. Back then, in the 1960’s, the collection of photos contained photos of my grandparents and parents taken from the 1930’s and 1940’s. My Uncle Bob, the oldest child of my grandparents, was interested in photography when he was in college and had left quite a collection of photographs in that drawer.
While browsing through those faded black and white photos, I always enjoyed identifying phots of relatives, taken in their younger days. But what really interested me was the locations in which they were taken. I dreamed of distant places and new locales, even if they were just “back home” in South Carolina or at the local zoo.
Later when I was in college, Charlotte and I actually wrote letters to one another, and we still have them today. Those handwritten letters are sometimes fun to look back upon and read. It’s funny, but I can always remember the exact locale, circumstances, or events to which we referred in those letters. I guess that’s why when I was about to depart on a big trip to Europe, I decided to purchase a leather-bound journal to record my thoughts, reflections, and memories.
So in June 1997, I set off on a band performance tour to Europe organized by EF Educational Tours. Now, those of you who have known me for some time, know that EF Tours is the reason I started my tour company, Exploring Europe. But at that time, I did not have the know-how or the resources to set up a tour to Europe, much less a performance tour! So, I relied on a tour company to plan and organize the tour, our accommodations, transportation, dining, and performance venues. Here is an entry from the first pages of my 1997 journal:
“June 5, 1997-
Today, we were up at 7 a.m. in Middleburg (FL) doing the last minute stuff that always makes me late. Why Charlotte picked this day to get her hair cut and frosted is beyond me, but she did! I left for the bank, school, and last minute errands by 8:30 and began my rush to get things done here at home. The most important stop was at our bank to get Traveler’s Checks. I arrived back home at 10 a.m. and met up with my kids and some friends for our trip to the airport. We still had to make a stop at the “hair place” to pick up Charlotte and Brian, and by the time we got there, it was pouring rain. After our first of many “passport and moneybelt checks,” we were on our way.
We arrived at the airport by 11:35 a.m. and found the Continental Airlines check-in desk. Benny, the agent there, was very helpful with getting our group checked in and most importantly, getting all our instruments on free of charge. By 12:30 the whole group had checked in and we all walked down to the gate.
Finally at 2:30 p.m. we departed Jacksonville and were off on our adventure. After about two hours, we arrived at Newark. In transit, we flew over Manhattan and I got my first look at New York City. The Empire State Building, World Trade Center Twin Towers, and Statue of Liberty were pretty darn impressive, especially for a country boy from Middleburg.
To get in the European spirit, we had pasta at “Sabbaro” in Newark airport, then hung out for about two hours. We boarded Flight #56 at 7:25 p.m. and were off the ground by 8:30. The flight was uneventful – I slept most of the time due to my taking two Bayer PM. We also had earplugs and an eye mask which really helped me sleep.”
My Reflections in December 2007:
How I’ve changed in those ten years! Traveler’s Checks, Bayer PM, eye masks, quick airline check-in, and the World Trade Center are things of the past. Nowadays, I use my debit card to get local cash, I have a glass of wine instead of Bayer PM, the World Trade Center is no more, and my cap or hat takes the place of the eye mask.
There is more to come with this trip; we aren’t even in Europe yet! Needless to say, that trip must have had a lasting impression on me. Now nearing the end of 2007, I’ve got a collection of nine leather bound journals chronicling my adventures in Europe and the rest of the world. I hope you’ll enjoy reading about me and my travels.
November 2011 Update:
I am turning my “pen and paper” journal into an online episodic account of my travels. This is the first in a weekly series that will appear over the next few months. If you have questions, comments, suggestions, or just want to add more information, I’d love to hear from you. Simply click the {comments} tab below and type away.
-David
link to Episode 2
by David McGuffin | Jul 26, 2011 | David's Journal, Essential Travel Resources
Flight delays seem to jump on me like the plague this year. Charlotte and I are heading to Tuscany for our vacation. Everything
went well until we got to our first stop/lay-over in Atlanta. Our flight to JFK was due to depart at 3:30. Charlotte wanted to be the first on the plane so she could get her carry-on bag stowed, so we were in our seats before 3:00. We sat there, at the gate, until 6:15!
It seemed there was severe weather in the New York area and all airports had shutdown. We were due to catch a flight to Pisa at 9:15 from JFK, so still in Atlanta at 6:15 did not bode well for us. Luckily, there was an Air France flight departing for Paris at 11:15, so we got off the Delta flight, ate dinner at Terminal E, and boarded the flight for Paris.
Currently, we are still in the Paris airport waiting for our flight to Pisa. By my count, it has been 26 hours since we left our home in Middleburg, and we are not to our destination yet! Oh, the joys of travel!
by David McGuffin | Jul 15, 2011 | Culture & Customs, David's Journal, Destinations, Eating & Drinking, Experiencing Europe, Restaurant Reviews
Candice Brown, a former student, has family who live in France. Luckily, Candice and I were able to coordinate our travel schedules so that we could meet up in Lyon, France.
Preplanning is the key to getting a seat on one of Europe’s busiest trains. I booked my TGV ticket online, several days in advance (visit http://www.voyages-sncf.com, choose your route, and pay by credit card online). The journey was a breeze once at the Paris Lyon TGV station. I zipped through the French countryside at lightning speed and was in Lyon in just over two hours.
Candice, our friend Abby, and her grandfather Jean-Paul met me at the station in Lyon. We hurried back to Jean-Paul’s home where I met Chantelle, his wife. After a little visit, we were off to explore the town.
Starting at the Cathedral, on the highest summit, we made our way downhill through woody parks, medieval cobbled streets, the Renaissance city, and finally the 20th century “new” town. It was a delight to have Jean-Paul and Chantelle as my private guides. I felt so special that they would devote a day to showing me around their hometown. An added bonus was visiting with Candice and Abby, not in Orange Park, but in France.
One of the highlights was our dining experience. The Restaurant Les Adrets (here is the TripAdvisor link) was located in the heart of the old medieval town and seemed to draw attention from only the locals. Jean-Paul told me that reservations were essential, and luckily, he had booked us a table! There was no menu and very few choices, but that did not matter, because the food was divine!
For my starter, I had toasted bread loaded with greens, olive oil, and fresh anchovies. It was amazing! A funny thing: when I asked Jean-Paul how to say “anchovy” in French, he laughed and said, “It is a French word, so it is anchovy.”
I’ve had a lot of salmon in the past few weeks, but Restaurant Les Adrets’s salmon plat was the best so far. It came perfectly prepared and fresh from the sea. The local wine from “Cote du Rhone” was presented in a traditional “pot” or glass bottle, only available in the Lyon area. The bottle had several inches of glass at the bottom. I speculated the bottles were made that way so that they would not tip over after a bottle or two!
Later, we returned to Jean-Paul’s and Chantelle’s home where we sat, talked, and visited. This was the best! I picked up so much about French culture, protocol, and customs. Like any grandparents, they were proud of their grandchildren and their immersion into their (French) culture. I am truly thankful to have had an opportunity to experience Lyon with the perfect hosts in Jean-Paul and Chantelle.
Lyon- Candice, David, and Abby
Candice and Abby, thanks for showing me around!
After visiting Notre Dame, we boarded the bus and drove down the river passing the Latin Quarter (known so for the “education” that has occurred here). Crossing the river we saw the Louvre, Tullieries, Champs Elysée, the Arch de Triomphe, and finally to the Trocadero. Stopping here, we got off the bus and enjoyed a fantastic view of the Eiffel Tower. Back on the bus, we drove a few blocks to the Opéra neighborhood, where we had free time for shopping and lunch.
Several decided to have lunch at one of the many cafés lining the grand “Boulevard de l’Opéra.” I enjoyed “moules” (mussels) cooked in wine, herbs, and garlic butter and all the bread I cared to eat. Charlotte and Aunt Hilda had French Onion Soup, which I think was better than Bern’s. Mom had some salmon spread with salad. We also had a bottle of slightly chilled red wine from the Loire region, which went well with our meals. [WINE NOTE: Loire Valley-COULY-DUTHEIL Saumier Champigny 1996 46F] 
Over the months leading up to our trip, Brian had been worried about the elevator trip up to the top. He has always been afraid of heights, roller coasters, and the like, so as we ascended, it seemed that the elevator cabin would never stop going up, and up, and up. We crammed Brian in the center of the cabin, and everyone crowded around him. Actually, there were so many people in the cabin, we felt like the proverbial “can of sardines.” I watched as the horizon disappeared into the skyline. Finally, the elevator stopped. We were at the top and all was well! From the summit, the Paris skylines twinkled with millions of amber lights. The hustle, bustle, and traffic noise of the city, 900 feet below, was replaced by silence interspersed with “wows,” “oohhs,” and “ahhhs.” As we were leaving, someone noticed a fireworks display off to the east. Watching that from “above” was a unique experience that I’ll never forget.
Memories from today: Matt left the drummer’s bag containing all their sticks on the Paris bus; he and his dad spend much of the day tracking the bus down and recovering the sticks. Kissing Charlotte at the top of the Eiffel Tower was a highlight! We walked many miles. Lunch with my family was a treat. I took pleasure in watching my students experience Paris while having fun with their friends. Today was one of those days that makes me happy and fulfilled to be a teacher!
I remember we did a lot of riding on the bus from one sight to the next that morning. Rules for buses and emissions have drastically changed since those days. Now, buses are not permitted to drop off and pick up passengers at the major tourist sights in the city center. Other cities such as London, Rome, and Florence impose incredibly high fees for tour buses to enter the “tourist zones.”
ORANGINA – Based on my journal entry, I suppose this was the first time I’d run across “Orangina.” I recall we were so parched and tired from “touring” the Louvre, that the cafe was a welcomed sight for sore feet! The little bottle of “Orangina” was chilled (unlike the soda we had been drinking) and served with a cute matching glass filled with several cubes of ice! 
THE BEST DINNER YET? – Notice my comments about the meal at “Restaurant La Boucherie,” “Salad, WONDERFUL mashed potatoes, and steak.” I think “comfort food” reminding us of home. I have no doubt, the food was good. Even today the mashed potatoes and steak sounds great. However, there is so much more in the way of “French” food to be had in Paris.
