Ireland is fast becoming my most popular tour destination. I’ve just returned home from leading a great group of people on my “Best of Ireland and Scotland” tour. Later this month, I return to the Emerald Isle for two more of my “Taste O’ Ireland” tours. Ireland (and Scotland) are a perfect destination for summer travels as the temperature rarely climbs above 68°F, the countryside is draped in 40 shades of green, and the photo ops for sheep are plentiful. We are scheduling tours for the summer of 2015, so keep an eye out for my tours to Ireland!
Traditional folk music and singing is a nightly occurrence in Ireland. No matter what town or village, I can always find a pub with a music session. These sessions vary according to the ability and style of the musicians, but are always filled with heartfelt choruses and toe tapping jigs. It is almost as if every person on the island pops out of their mother’s womb with a song instead of a scream.
I’ve been a musician all my life, so when I hear a band in the distance or a song wafting out the door, I go for a listen. I sometimes run across situations and events that are once-in-a-lifetime opportunities where I just happen to be in the right place at the right time. In Venice, I recall sitting in on an impromptu singing session with a few salty old fishermen belting out operatic arias. On successive trips to Venice, I’ve tried to duplicate that experience and have been disappointed. Try as I might, there is no way to “manufacture” these impromptu experiences for the folks on my tours. You’ve just got to be in the right place at the right time and let it unfold around you!
Knowing all this, I shouldn’t be surprised when a gem of an event unfolds around me. This time, it all started when I coaxed a few of my tour members into a deserted Irish pub. When I say deserted, I mean just that… there was not a soul in the place except for the bartender, and he looked like he was packing it up for the evening. In fact, when we asked for a pint of Kilkenny (the local ale), he had to go to the back and fiddle with the taps just to get the stuff flowing. I began making apologies to my group for bringing them in this desolate place, but the bartender had spent several minutes getting the taps to flow, so we felt obligated to stay and have a pint. There we were, just the six of us quietly sipping our pints and looking for an exit strategy.
This was the third night of the tour and our first night out of Dublin. I was hoping to introduce my group to some traditional small town pub music. But it seemed tonight would not be the night. So, instead of experiencing music, I decided to at least tell my group about the “typical” pub music session to get them prepared for a future musical evening. As I was explaining the typical fiddling and singing found in a pub music session, a gentleman walked in the door. Dianne, one of my tour members, asked him, jokingly, if he was the singer for tonight’s session. He said no, he had just come in for a pint after playing two rounds of golf, but if we wait a bit we might coax one of his friends to belt out a song or two.
Over the course of the next fifteen minutes, the pub filled with 20 or so Irishmen who were in Kilkenny on a golf outing. They told us this was a yearly get together to play golf, have fun, and get away from their wives (said with a joke and a laugh). So, the first gentleman says to his buddy, “this lady wants to know if you are the singer.” We all expected a laugh and a swift no, but to our surprise he stood up and belted out a heartfelt ballad about “Annie Moore”, Ireland’s first immigrant to the United States.
Then began a chain reaction where each man stood and sang his favorite song. All was done a cappella, without accompaniment, and from the heart. They took great pride in their singing and in the message of the song. We were an audience of six Americans who were looking for some music, and boy did we get it! By the end of the night we were invited to join them in “God Bless America”, finally finishing the session at midnight belting out “cockles and mussels… alive, alive oh.”
[space height=10] You would think with six of us witnessing this impromptu singing session we would have taken some video. Unfortunately, all were having too much fun to waste time on video. So, this short segment is all I have to offer. You’ve just got to be at the right place at the right time! [space height=10] [column col=”1/2″] [youtube height=”200″ width=”290″ align=”left”]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pw4yqb8s9hI[/youtube][/column] [column col=”1/2″ last=”true”]
I am smack dab in the middle of my Best of Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and France tour. I picked up a group of just four folks a few days ago in Munich and we’ve had a blast getting to know each other and experiencing Germany and Austria. It being the beginning of spring, we’ve run in to several celebrations dedicated to digging out of the gloomy winter and leaping into spring.
Frühlingfest Munich
Frühlingfest Munich
In Munich, the massive outdoor Octoberfest site was booming with the Frühlingfest. This, a yearly spring celebration seemed very much like our state or county fairs at home with the addition of lots of lederhosen, dirndls, beer, and sausage. As the opening ceremonies began I enjoyed marching bands, horse-drawn beer wagons, and fifty or more ancient pistols being fired into the air in celebration of spring.
While in Salzburg fellow tour members stumbled upon a celebration of the Lord Mayor’s birthday in the Mirabell Gardens complete with fanfare, song, toasting, and celebration. The Augustiner Bräustübe had just switched over to its standard brew, changing from the special Lenten Bier it had served from Ash Wednesday to Easter.
Mirabell Gardens
Driving through Bavaria and the Austria Tirol we encountered lush green fields covered with beautiful wildflowers. Each little village seemed to be trying to outdo the next with its freshly painted and über-Bavaria blue and white maypoles. Even the livestock seem to be extra happy to be out of the barns and into the fields. At times we would encounter field after field of vivid bright yellow rapeseed in full bloom adding to the contrast of the countryside.
Fields of Rapeseed
Tirol
On the morning of May 1st, I watched a crew put up a huge tent and install the 90- foot Maypole topped with a tree and dripping with hanging pretzels. Throughout the morning, locals would drop by to check on the progress, looking up and giving the guy hanging from the Maypole advice and encouragement. Young ladies, clad in traditional dirndls, arrived to set up the tent as a makeshift beer hall while local volunteers laid down wooden walkways and carried all sorts of “potluck” food into the tent. I was sure the celebration would be grand and sort of sorry I was going to miss it.
Maypole in Tirol
Later we arrived in Vaduz, the capital of the Principality of Liechtenstein. Popping out from the underground parking garage it appeared the city was deserted. As I walked toward the main square it became evident that most of the locals were settling in here under a huge tent. The Liechtenstein fire department had all their trucks and equipment out on display. Some of the firemen were in their “dress blues” while others were manning the hot grills loaded with sausages and bratwurst serving lunch to hundreds of people. There was a pair of strolling troubadours, with an accordion and guitar, willing to serenade a table for just a small donation to help the fire department. Nearby, kids were jumping in the bounce house, playing firemen games with water, climbing all over the fire trucks, and getting a ride in the 60-foot “cherrypicker” bucket on the hook-and-ladder truck.
Vaduz Festival
We are in the heart of Switzerland today. The Lauterbrunnen Valley is my favorite alpine spot in all of Europe. I don’t know what today will bring, but I am sure it will be filled with fresh wildflowers in high alpine meadows, snow-capped glaciers, and the gently clanging of bells as the cows are moved from the winter barns to the spring meadows. Everyday is an adventure on an Exploring Europe tour and stumbling upon local celebrations makes travel even more authentic. Why not consider joining one of my tours in the coming months.
Travel Question of the Month – JULY 2014
“I’ve been doing some reading about Italy and there is mention of a dress code for entering some of the churches in Rome. What I read was that women must be wearing long pants or a skirt below their knees and have their shoulders covered. Is there a dress code for any of the places we will be visiting (on our tour in September)?” – Joe from Florida
My Response…
Many churches, especially south of the Alps, require modest dress for men and women. Often you’ll find a “guard” at the door reminding visitors to remove their hats, take no photos, and arrive dressed properly. Bare shoulders and knees usually result in the visitor being turned away at the door. Keep in mind that all over Europe these grand churches were not built as a tourist sight, but as a place for worship.
Some of the major church sights in Italy provide disposable garments which are given to tourists who show up in short shorts, tank tops, and other immodest attire. It is kind of entertaining to watch partially clad tourists don tacky capes and britches to enter these churches. I’ve also seen many people turned away completely at the doors of St. Mark’s in Venice and St. Peter’s in Rome because they do not meet the dress code.
Allowed in – yes or no?
The bottom line here is to dress for the occasion. Europeans, in general, dress up more than Americans. You’ll not find a man wearing shorts unless they are at the seaside or a woman wearing warm-ups or short shorts unless at a workout. So, when traveling in Europe, no matter the season or destination, plan to dress for the locale and the tour plan of the day. Save your shorts and tank tops for the seaside, pool, or mountain hiking.
Cassidy traveled with David on three of his “educational oriented tours.” Now studying at Clemson University, she’s decided to write about some of her travel adventures. Join Cassidy by subscribing to her periodic posts recounting her travels in Europe with David.Best Regards, David McGuffin
TRAVELER’S TALES – Cassidy’s take on journeys with David McGuffin
David McGuffin’s Exploring Europe, Inc. 4036 Hidden Acres Rd. Middleburg, Florida 32068
Last summer, Charlotte and I spent a lot of time traveling around Ireland. While making our rounds, Charlotte developed a guide for shopping on the Emerald Isle.
For those of you that know me, you know I enjoy to shop! I’m often asked, what should I buy or where should I shop? I’ve put together this short guide of shops I’ve found and things to buy. By no means do I list every shopping venue! In fact, I only have a limited amount of time to devote to one of my favorite pastimes and I certainly don’t want to miss out on the cultural and historical aspects of visiting any city. Hopefully, this brief guide will give you some idea of what to expect when shopping in some of the spots you will visit while on your tour of Ireland. If you get a chance, send me a note to let me know what you found at charlotte@davidmcguffin.com.
Before I share my shopping suggestions, here are a few tips for shopping that I have found out the hard way!
• If you are going to charge your purchase, ask the sales person to charge your card in Euros, not in US dollars. Why? Generally, your credit card company is going to convert the Euros using a better exchange rate than what you will be charged by the vendor. Find out what your bank charges. When I use my debit card, the credit union only charges me .1%. That’s only 1 cent for every dollar spent and they use the exchange rate on the day I make the purchase. If you don’t tell them up front, the vendor is most likely going to convert the charge to US dollars as they are making money off of the exchange. I had one vendor tell me that their machine only allowed the US dollars exchange and I didn’t have any cash. I was stuck with paying 3.5 %!
• Always ask for a tax free receipt if you are spending at least 30 Euros (I think that is the minimum purchase price in Ireland.) There are various ways for you to get the Value Added Tax (VAT) back and the vendor will be able to tell you how to conduct the transactions. The new way is to use a card called the FEXCO Horizon card, but not all vendors will use this method. Just make sure to ask when you make the purchase. Otherwise, they may not offer the receipts that you will need to claim the tax when you leave the country.
• Make a list of what you are buying and what it costs. It will make filling out your US Customs form much easier on the day you return to the US when you can’t remember everything you bought!
Galway
Galway has great shopping. You will find most of the local crafts and souvenir shopping in the pedestrian only streets. The main street changes names and there are several cross streets, but David can get you there. There are several shops with wonderful wool items and hand knit sweaters actually made in Ireland. I particularly like a shop called Magee’s which has high end hats, sweaters, scarves, etc. It’s a little more expensive but is higher quality. There are quite a few of these types of shops around, and sometimes you can get a really good deal when they put things on clearance.
For Pandora bracelets, you will find the Pandora shop on Williams Gate close to Eyre Square. All you need to do is continue past the pedestrian only area main street and it is on your left.
If you are lucky enough to be in Galway on Saturday, there is an open air market on the streets surrounding St. Nicholas church. There you will find local craftsmen and vendors with jewelry, hand knit items, and great food, just to name a few of the items! It is supposedly open in the summer on Sunday as well, but I haven’t verified that.
There is also a mall of sorts that has various shops (more for the locals to shop in, less touristy items) which ends with a two-story Dunnes, the Irish version of Wal-Mart. The basement floor has a grocery store where you can purchase a snack or picnic lunch. If you are walking towards Eyre Square, the entrance is on your right. It is called the Eyre Square Shopping Center on Williams Gate.
Dublin
Dublin is a huge city and there are a lot of places to shop. I certainly haven’t been to them all, but these are just a few of my favorite stops:
Grafton Street – This is a pedestrian only street and is where most of the high end shopping in Dublin can be found. The stores on this street are mostly where the locals would shop. There is also a mall located at the end of Grafton Street near St. Stephens Green. I didn’t have an opportunity to check it out, so I don’t know what it has to offer.
The Pandora shop can be found right on Grafton Street. It is on the left hand side as you are walking away from Molly Malone towards St. Stephens Green. There is even a Disney Store on the right.
If you are looking for Irish crafts, you will want to walk a few blocks over from Grafton Street. Instead of going to Grafton Street from Trinity College, keep walking down the street that lines Trinity College, which is Nassau Street. There are several shops on that street that I enjoyed. A few of them are: House of Ireland, Kilkenny Crafts Center and Trinity Sweaters. You can also get a bite to eat at the Kilkenny Crafts Center on the second floor. The soup and brown bread are a really good choice!
If you are looking for all things Irish in the way of souvenirs, head to O’Connell street to a shop called Carroll’s. There are several Carroll’s around town but this one must be their biggest location. It is near the big General Post Office near the tall spire.
Also located on O’Connell’s is a store called Clery’s. It reminds me a lot of Macy’s and Dillards. It is a big department store. I enjoyed browsing just to see the different styles.
Marcs and Spencers (M&S) is another big department store. You can find one on Grafton Street. It reminds me of a Penney’s or Sears. There is another department store called Pennys but I did not get a chance to check it out. It is on O’Connell street across from Clery’s.
Kilkenny
Kilkenny shopping has mostly shops that cater to the locals, rather than tourists, although they do have the Kilkenny Crafts Center. There are two snack shops there, one on the second floor and the other on the main street level, both of which have free Wi-Fi. This shop tends to be a little pricey but they have some beautiful items. It is right across from the Castle. I also saw quite a few antique shops, if you like to shop for that sort of thing.
Kilkenny also has a Dunne’s.
Dingle
Dingle is one of my all time favorite Irish towns to visit! And not just for the shopping, although it seems to have some of the best! There are quite a few art galleries, as well as shops that handle hand made knit items, woolen clothing, hats, scarves, and beautiful jewelry. You will also find a lot of shops that carry Ireland souvenirs. All you have to do is walk the three main streets in town to have a great time!
I didn’t find any Pandora beads here, but I did find the Irish equivalent! They are called Tara something (sorry! I’m having a senior moment and can’t remember the rest of the name) but they will fit Pandora bracelets and are sterling silver. All of the beads are Irish themed. I bought one that represents the Blasket Islands – it’s a charm in the shape of a heart with the round scroll on it, along with a dangle of the three men carrying the traditional boat. I bought it in a shop called John Weldon Jewellers. I saw these in Kilkenny and Dublin as well.
One shop on the harbor street has fine Irish linens. They have some beautiful sachets, table cloths, pillow cases, Christening gowns, etc. I always love to go in this shop and browse.
Doolin
Doolin is tiny but has several fun shops. There are two shopping areas, both of which are all in about a one block area. The shops in the low part of town carry the traditional Irish sweaters, scarves, hats, souvenirs, etc. I found a sweater for 18 Euro less than what I paid for it in Dublin in these shops!
The other little shopping area in the high part of town appears to have some fun shops. I haven’t had a chance to check them out. They look nice but I can’t vouch for them. I always run out of time before I can get to them!
Cliffs of Moher
Even though this is just an attraction, there is a great gift shop inside of the exhibits. They also have several shops located near the parking area which carry more souvenirs, crafts and jewelry. Don’t let shopping get in the way of seeing the Cliffs! While the shopping is good, you don’t want to miss the breathtaking views. Save the shopping for last.
Recently, while traveling in the UK, I decided to take an informal survey on tipping/gratuity customs in the 21st century. My research is based on interviews with restaurant and pub patrons as well as the wait staff, bartenders, and pub owners. To get a perspective on the entire UK, I surveyed folks in London, Bristol, Bath (England) and Edinburgh, Oban, and St. Andrews (Scotland). The results were quite a surprise and have prompted me to modify the information I give to my tour members. Here is how it all stacks up:
A tip is not really expected at pubs or restaurants. If you feel the service has been exceptional, then a small tip will certainly be appreciated.
Personally, I tip about 10% in restaurants. Nothing when having a drink in the pubs.
I’ve not done the research in Northern Ireland, but will have an opportunity in a few weeks.
Ireland is fast becoming my most popular tour destination. I’ve just returned home from leading a great group of people on my “Best of Ireland and Scotland” tour. Later this month, I return to the Emerald Isle for two more of my “Taste O’ Ireland” tours. Ireland (and Scotland) are a perfect destination for summer travels as the temperature rarely climbs above 68°F, the countryside is draped in 40 shades of green, and the photo ops for sheep are plentiful. We are scheduling tours for the summer of 2015, so keep an eye out for my tours to Ireland!![IMAG0380[2]](https://i0.wp.com/davidmcguffin.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/IMAG03802.jpg?ssl=1)
Knowing all this, I shouldn’t be surprised when a gem of an event unfolds around me. This time, it all started when I coaxed a few of my tour members into a deserted Irish pub. When I say deserted, I mean just that… there was not a soul in the place except for the bartender, and he looked like he was packing it up for the evening. In fact, when we asked for a pint of Kilkenny (the local ale), he had to go to the back and fiddle with the taps just to get the stuff flowing. I began making apologies to my group for bringing them in this desolate place, but the bartender had spent several minutes getting the taps to flow, so we felt obligated to stay and have a pint. There we were, just the six of us quietly sipping our pints and looking for an exit strategy.![IMG_0813[1]](https://i0.wp.com/davidmcguffin.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/IMG_08131.jpg?ssl=1)
Over the course of the next fifteen minutes, the pub filled with 20 or so Irishmen who were in Kilkenny on a golf outing. They told us this was a yearly get together to play golf, have fun, and get away from their wives (said with a joke and a laugh). So, the first gentleman says to his buddy, “this lady wants to know if you are the singer.” We all expected a laugh and a swift no, but to our surprise he stood up and belted out a heartfelt ballad about “Annie Moore”, Ireland’s first immigrant to the United States.
