The Coronavirus lockdown has disrupted the “normal” routine all over the world. Here at home, in Middleburg, Florida, Charlotte and I are spending much of our time keeping to ourselves, working on previously ignored projects around the house, and occasionally running to the store to pick up food or hardware items. Needless to say, I am getting stir-crazy and itching to get back to travel (#BackToTravel)! But, until we can do that safely, cooking is a good substitute for me.
Pizza Done Wrong
Recently, we had worked outside in our yard, all day long. When supper-time rolled around, neither of us felt like cooking, there were no left-overs in the fridge, and restaurants are closed during the pandemic. So, I decided to run up to Papa Murphy’s and get a “bring-home-and-cook-it-yourself” pizza. (I’ve eaten pizza all around the world and have decided Papa Murphy’s Pizza produces the best takeaway alternative to a homemade pie. I like cooking it myself and eating it hot! By the way, I keep it simple too, thin-crust, mushrooms, pepperoni, onions, and bell peppers). It was only 6:30 in the evening, but unfortunately, the store was already closed due to shortened hours! So, I went to the local Pizza Hut, walked in, ordered a pizza, and waited for it in my car. It was semi-warm when I got it home, but we were starving by this time, so we opened the box and dug in.
It was not very good. The crust was overcooked and hard, the red sauce was tart and astringent, and the veggies were not fresh. The pepperoni was the best ingredient. But we ate it!
Next Time, I Made My Own
A few days later, I decided to stock up on the ingredients to make fresh homemade pizza. But, when I got to the grocery store, they had no flour on the shelves. It seems, like toilet paper, flour is a hot-selling item during this pandemic! So, I walked over to the deli counter and purchased a hunk of made-fresh daily pizza dough. I’m not sure if Publix Super Market mixes this up every morning in their deli, or if it arrives frozen and they thaw it out, but regardless, it is pretty good. I also stocked up on my fav four ingredients of pepperoni, bell peppers, sweet onions, and mushrooms. Here’s how it turned out… almost like Italy!
Italian Pizza Done Right
When in Rome, we often begin our Exploring Europe tours with a Day 1 get-together at Mercato Centrale Roma for a pizza lunch before heading out for sightseeing. This is the perfect way to get acquainted with one another and with authentic Italian food. Not only does it house a great pizzeria, but there are also 17 other food stalls selling almost anything to eat or drink that comes to mind when thinking of authentic Italian cuisine. Check out this artisanal pizza from pizzaiolo Gabriele Bonci. Photo thanks to Italy Magazine and their article on Mercato Centrale Roma.
We have searched thousands of photos in our archives for a picture of our groups eating pizza at Mercato Centrale in Rome or Florence. I guess the pizza is too good to document, but we did not find a single photo in our files. So, if you have any photos of pizza at Mercato Centrale or in Italy or your favorite pizzeria at home, send them in and we’ll post ’em!
There are hundreds of pizzerie (that’s plural for pizzeria) all over Rome. Some are better than others, but none of them are bad. If they were, they would be out of business real quick! I like to visit those that are small places with a real wood-fired pizza oven, a pizzaiolo (the man who wears white clothes and makes a pizza), and is located outside of the tourist areas.
Rome- Quattro Fontane
Rome- Testaccio neighborhood
Claudia’s Homemade Pizza
My friends the Del Duca’s live just outside the ancient Etruscan town of Volterra, in Tuscany. I visit with them six or eight times a year, either at their home and agriturismo known as Podere Marcampo or their Ristorante Enoteca Del Duca. Twice a year, we rent out their agriturismo rooms and host 12-15 people on our “Villa Vacation” tour. This is a delight because we get to unpack our stuff for seven consecutive nights and experience what life might be like for a local in Volterra. Each day we go on short excursions to Lucca, Siena, Volterra, San Gimignano, and the Chianti region for sightseeing, wine tasting, and fun. When we return to Podere Marcampo, there is time for relaxing, swimming, sunbathing, hiking, and of course, eating and drinking!
PODERE MARCAMPO
One evening, a few years back, Claudia offered to make pizza for our group and to share her recipe. Here it is.
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 PEOPLE
1.3 lbs all purpose flour
1/2 oz. beer yeast
14 oz. warm water
Half a glass of extra-virgin olive oil
1 tsp. spoon of sugar
1 tsp. of salt
tomato puree
oregano
Dissolve the yeast in warm water. In a bowl, mix the flour with salt, sugar and extra virgin olive oil. Add the water and knead until you get a soft uniform dough. Cover the bowl with a cloth and let the dough rise for 2 hours.
Thereafter, extend the dough with a rolling pin and adjust it in one or more flat oven pans lined with parchment paper. Cover again, and let sit for an hour.
In the meantime make the tomato sauce. Puree fresh tomatoes or purchase quality canned tomato puree. (David’s note – I always use the CENTO brand for whole canned tomatoes and puree. They have no citric acid which is often added as a preservative). Mix in salt, pepper, oregano, and extra-virgin olive oil. Let it rest for at least one hour in the fridge.
Pre-heat the oven to 500°F.
Uncover the dough, place a thin layer of tomato sauce on the dough. Add other ingredients from the list below. Cook for 15-20 minutes.
Mozzarella, sliced potatoes, bacon, rosemary
Mozzarella, spinach (pre-cooked with garlic), and sausage
Tomato, mozzarella, ham, mushrooms, olives
Tomato, mozzarella, sliced veggies, marjoram
Slice and enjoy your homemade pizza!
Claudia is at the far end of the table. There is a bit of her pizza remaining in the photo on the right. These photos were taken at our Villa Vacation Tour in July 2015.
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Paris is my most favorite city in Europe. Grand boulevards, boutiques and outdoor cafés, lavish monuments, essential museums and, of course, romance. The home of the Mona Lisa, the Eiffel Tower, and Quasimodo’s cathedral, Paris is a destination in itself, giving the traveler weeks of tourist options.
I was in Paris in April 2019, just a few days after the fire that destroyed the Cathedral Notre Dame. Gone was the jovial mood that, at any other time, would be in the hearts and minds of locals and tourists. It was replaced by shock and a sense of dread. The entire east end of the Île de la Cité, the island upon which the Notre Dame sits, was barricaded and impossible to traverse. Any other time, I would be leading my tour group around the Latin Quarter, Notre Dame, and the surrounding area showing and explaining the sites. But this day, I became a tourist too. Rounding the corner out of a narrow pedestrian lane onto Rue Saint-Jacques, I had an unobstructed view of the burnt-out cathedral. My heart sank as my jaw dropped in awe! And it wasn’t just me, this was the look and feel of everyone on the street.
Now its been almost a year since the fire, and although there is progress, it progresses painfully slow. Recently, I watched a France 24 video giving a rare look inside the cathedral. The nave has been cleared, the flying buttresses supported by scaffolding, old stones and artifacts collected and cataloged, and debris removed from the interior. There is still no roof, and the interior is left open to the elements of nature. However, I suspect this has become a part of the everyday life of Paris. There is no telling how many more years or decades it will take to bring the restoration along enough to allow worshippers and visitors back in the old building.
Even without the cathedral, Paris has a lot to offer in and around the Île del la Citè. Whether you’re heading here for the first time or the twentieth, you’ll always find something new and exciting. Dive into its ambiance and become an explorer! A visit to neighborhoods such as the Marais, Montparnasse, Rue Cler, St-Germain or Montmartre will give new insights to the cultural diversity as well as a peek into the everyday life of Parisians.
But you may ask why with all the destinations that I’ve been to in Europe, why I chose Paris as my favorite city. Well, it isn’t easy, but I guess the first thing that comes to mind is that Paris is composed of a bunch of neighborhoods where I can get out and get away from the tourist hubbub. Yes, you’ve got to see and experience the big sights and attractions I’ve mentioned above, but there is much more to experience than another museum or another church.
One such destination to get away from it all is the Canal Saint-Martin, a canal built in the early 1800s to help supply Paris with building materials, grain, and other essential items. It is one of several canals in Paris that, after meandering through the city, empties into the Seine. I spent a morning here a few years ago, just walking up one side and back down the other. On my walk, I saw kids enjoying floating boats, balls, and leaves in the water, moms pushing buggies with babies out for a stroll, charming canal-side cafes, and bistros, and nightclubs that, although dead at this time of day, were bound to bring in the crowds late in the evening. It was so peaceful… no honking horns, traffic jams, or tourist crowds.
I also enjoy walking the neighborhoods around the Eiffel Tower, Champ du Mars, and Pont de l’Alma. Here, sandwiched between Rue Saint Dominique and the Seine are cozy 18th-century neighborhoods that are loaded with the real people of Paris. Some years back, I read Julia Child’s biography, where she speaks affectionately about living in a small upper-story apartment on Rue de l’ Université. I’ve often walked this street honing in on the specific building and wonder what’s going on in that apartment now.
Finally, at least for this article, Paris is a wonderful destination for dining. It doesn’t matter if you want a picnic on the banks of the Seine, a quick coffee and croissant for breakfast, or a full-blown dinner, there is no better place than here. On a recent trip, I’ve enjoyed dining at Constant Café on Rue Saint-Dominique. Owned by a locally famous chef who has several high-end restaurants on the same street, Constant Café is approachable and unpretentious. There is a small bar and a few tables on the ground floor. A steep stairway leads to a 1st-floor dining area that is always loaded with people. The menu varies and is rather small, but the food is perfectly Parisian, affordable, and yummy.
So, go Climb the Eiffel Tower, stroll the Champs Élysées, marvel at the architecture, see the grand parks or sit and enjoy the ambiance from a café window. But, whatever you do, slow down and experience Paris! It is one of the most memorable destinations in the entire world. Dig in, become a part of it, and go with the flow!
Paris, Rome, Venice, Salzburg, and Tuscany are some of the most romantic destinations in Europe! What’s not to LOVE about these cities… good food, fine wine, enticing rivers, evocative museums, enchanting gardens, all laced in a rich history and dripping with decadent ambiance. Today is Valentine’s Day, and this morning I woke up thinking about these riverside destinations and how I always manage to find something I love about being there. Of course, it is much more fun if you are there with someone you love! Charlotte and I have many cherished memories in each of these cities. In the next few days, I am going to write a post about each of these destinations, so stay tuned. But for now, why not consider taking advantage of one of these discounted tours and experience them first-hand for yourself!
The Best of London and Paris tour provides an opportunity to settle in and experience two of Europe’s major capital cities. London presents a relatively stress-free introduction with non-stops flights from North America, almost no language barrier and easy transportation. All this coupled with our comprehensive itinerary and an opportunity to experience some of the best theatre in the world makes London a perfect beginning to this tour. The EuroStar high-speed train will zip you from London to Paris in less than three hours. In Paris, we’ve included all the major tourist sights and must-see attractions, but there is also plenty of time to slow down and enjoy the experience.
The Best of London, Paris and Rome tour provides an opportunity to settle in and experience three of Europe’s major capital cities. London presents a relatively stress-free introduction with non-stops flights from North America, almost no language barrier and easy transportation. All this coupled with our comprehensive itinerary and an opportunity to experience some of the best theatre in the world makes London a perfect beginning to this tour. The EuroStar high-speed train will zip you from London to Paris in less than three hours. In Paris, we’ve included all the major tourist sights and must-see attractions, but there is also plenty of time to slow down and enjoy the experience. A quick flight down to Rome provides another cultural layer to your tour experience along with historic and religious sights.
Join a small group of 8-15 people in Italy for a fantastic holiday in Tuscany. We will set up for seven nights at the modern 21st-century agriturismo resort near Volterra, Italy. This wonderful agriturismo “villa” comes complete with all the “perks” such as modern rooms, WIFI, air conditioning, plasma TV, and a private pool. This all sits smack-dab in the middle of a hilltop vineyard with broad sweeping vistas of the Tuscan countryside.
Each day we will head out to explore the sites and experiences within driving distance. Day trips include visits to Volterra, Siena, San Gimignano, and Lucca. But one of the joys of staying in a villa is to experience la dolce vita, the sweet life of doing nothing! So, we will have chunks of unstructured time to sit by the pool, relax, walk in the countryside vineyards and enjoy your vacation. We’ve also included a night in Florence, before and after your villa vacation, to help you ease in and out of your travels.
If you’ve been to Italy and seen the sights but were frazzled with a breakneck pace… this is the next vacation experience for you! You’ll feast on fine food, taste some wonderful wine, experience charming villages and treasure packed museums. My personal friends will serve as local guides welcoming you with open arms to their hometown. If you are looking for a real vacation… consider joining me in Tuscany for this vacation experience.
We kick off this tour in the grand imperial city of Vienna, famous for castles, kings, music and cuisine. Then, you’ll have two relaxing days in Salzburg’s famous city center. A visit to Neuschwanstein Castle and nearby Reutte rounds out the fifth day of the tour. We’ll head to Switzerland for my favorite alpine village experience in the beautiful Lauterbrunnen valley. Then we will take a turn to the north and follow the Rhine River valley through the Black Forest to the cute little town of Rothenburg. Finally, visit Hitler’s first concentration camp in Dachau before capping off your tour with two days in Munich, the capital city of Bavaria.
The Best of Italy Tour visits favorite destinations situated north of Rome. Beginning in Rome, you’ll visit the essential tourist sights and classic destinations. Then, travel to the delightful villages of the Cinque Terre where you’ll enjoy two days exploring this coastal region where the mountains literally fall into the sea. Volterra, my choice for the quintessential Tuscan hilltown, is sure to win you over to the “la dolce vita” lifestyle. Siena adds another layer to the complete Tuscan experience with its famous Il Campo and Duomo. Florence, the “cradle of the Renaissance,” will have you walking in the steps of Michelangelo, DaVinci, and the Medici’s. Venice, the romantic canal laced city, rounds out the big three tourist sites. Finally, we will cap off the tour relaxing on beautiful Lake Como in addition to taking a quick look at Milan’s bustling city center.
Rome – 2 nights, Cinque Terre – 2 nights, Volterra – 2 nights, Siena – 1 night, Florence – 2 nights, Venice – 2 nights, Lake Como – 2 nights, and Milan – 1 night
Sign up for any of these tours online and pay your $400 deposit. When we confirm your application, we’ll deduct the discount from your final invoice.
The Munich Airport’s (MUC) Terminal 1 and Terminal 2 are linked by a big outdoor covered square, which during December, is turned into a traditional Christmas Market. “Christmas” in German is Weihnachts and market is markt. This adds an extra layer of festive fun to the already customer-friendly airport center.
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Last night was Friday, and the market was filled! Travelers, pulling suitcases, mixed with hundreds of locals out for a night the town. A Christmas market brings everyone together for a common cause… bundle up, visit with friends, get some authentic German “carney” food, have a drink, and enjoy the festive evening.
There are many locations in Europe where I often say, “You can’t do this in Middleburg,” my little hometown in Florida. Especially during the holiday season, we at home tend to get caught up in the hustle and bustle about shopping for relatives, attending Christmas parties, and going through the motions of the holiday, without slowing down an enjoying the experience.
The folks I encountered last night in the market were there to relax, slow down, shop, and enjoy visiting with friends. Stopping for a snack, Charlotte and I were standing at an outdoor table with people we did not know, yet we all had a good experience there together. There were a couple of young ladies at the next table with two Yorkie dogs tethered to the wrists. The dogs loved it! Perfect beggers and fierce to bark when challenged!
We are traveling around several Austria and Bavaria town this coming week, and I hope you will check in here often to see what’s going on in my world.
Fröhliche Weihnachten!
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David McGuffin is Founder and CEO of David McGuffin’s Exploring Europe, Inc., based in Middleburg, Florida. You can connect with him on Twitter, Facebook, Google+,LinkedIn and YouTube. David spends his time in Europe organizing and leading small group and independent tours to European destinations. In business since 2001, David has provided exceptional travel opportunities to several thousand satisfied customers. You can find out more about David and his European tours at his website, https://davidmcguffin.com.
We arrived at the MUC Munich Airport this morning, and by 8:00, we were through passport contral and customs. Charlotte and I are here to lead tours visiting the Christmas Markets in Salzburg, Nürnberg, Rothenburg, and Munich.
After checking into the Hilton Hotel Munich Airport, we slept off the jet-lag, freshened up, and visited the airport Weihnachts (Christmas) Market.
This market is under the enormous glass-covered outdoor square located between Terminals 1 and 2. Known as the MAC (Munich Airport Centre), this square is always bustling with activity any time of year, but at Christmas, it is most delightful.
There are many wooden stalls staffed with vendors selling winter clothing, ornaments, hand-made wooden crafts, and all sorts of items perfect for gifting.
Here is our snack – flatbread with veg and salmon and hot mulled Glüwein.
On Monday evening, a major fire erupted in the attic of Notre Dame. It blazed for 10 hours, fueled by the Cathedral’s wooden frame. Tourists the world over have shared their memories of visiting Notre Dame and lamented the damage to this jewel at the heart of Paris. But the 800-year-old cathedral still stands, and there is much to be hopeful and thankful for. Find out more about the history of Notre Dame, Monday’s tragedy and the future of this iconic monument.
Un Peu d’Histoire
Notre Dame has dominated the banks of the Seine for over 850 years, standing on the Ile-de-la-Cité. The first stone was laid by Pope Alexander III in 1163, and it would take about 100 years before the Cathedral was complete. It is a textbook example of Gothic architectural style, decorated with numerous stained-glass windows, ornate statuary, flying buttresses, soaring spires and finely detailed carvings. It is no wonder that for many this is considered France’s most famous church.
A Previous Narrow Escape
It is only thanks to Victor Hugo that the Cathedral still stands today. He wrote The Hunchback of Notre Dame in an effort to save the monument, which was in severe disrepair and falling apart. There were talks of demolishing it to build a mall, but the book was so popular that people began to call for its renovation instead, hoping to find traces of Quasimodo and Esmeralda within its walls. As a result, in the nineteenth century, the Cathedral underwent a massive restoration effort. A new spire was added (to replace the 13th-spire that had been destroyed during the French Revolution), and a number of statues were repaired (their heads had been removed by angry revolutionaries). New stained-glass windows were added and others were enlarged.
The Fire Rages
Shortly before the Cathedral closed on Monday, the fire alarm went off and worshipers were ushered out of the building, but no fire was detected. Twenty minutes later when a second alarm sounded, the fire was already spreading out of control. It was located in “the Forest”, the Cathedral’s wooden frame which separates the ceiling and the roof. Most of the beams dated back to the 12th century and provided dry kindling for the fire. In a matter of minutes, the entire frame inside the 750-ton spire had caught fire and could no longer hold the weight, sending it crashing into the Cathedral below. Within a few hours, the entire roof was ablaze. Nearly 500 firefighters worked tirelessly through the night and were finally able to fully extinguish the fire by 10 AM the next morning.
The fire spread incredibly quickly, fueled by a cross work of 1,300 wooden beams. The oak trees used in the construction of the Forest covered 21 hectares. Although firefighters arrived on site within 10 minutes, it took longer for some of the larger trucks and machinery to navigate the narrow Parisian streets, as Notre Dame sits in the oldest part of Paris. There were no modern firewalls or sprinkler systems in place so as not to alter the original frame, a controversial decision that will no doubt be reviewed in the wake of this tragedy. As a result, the fire spread throughout the 100-meter long attic unimpeded. It was also impossible to dump water from the sky because of the fragile nature of the stone structure below the roof.
A Race to Save Priceless Artifacts
The firefighters of Paris train for these situations. In fact, they had conducted two drills at Notre Dame just last year. So they were able to leap into action right away to save many of the precious artifacts within. They formed a chain of 100 people, led by the fire department’s chaplain, to recover as many pieces as they could. Thanks to their heroic efforts, many priceless items were saved from destruction, including the crown of thorns.
Inspectors have still not been able to enter the unstable building, but they suspect the fire was caused by an accident related to the restoration work that was being done on site. Experts are still working to secure the structural integrity of the building, and a number of statues have been removed to lessen the weight.
A Close Call
When it became clear that the fire might spread to the bell towers, firefighters entered the building at great personal risk to fight the fire from within. If the largest bell, Emmanuelle, had crashed through the stone of the bell tower, it would have had a domino effect on the entire Cathedral. According to the Deputy Minister of the Interior, firefighters had a window of only 30 minutes to prevent that catastrophe. They also fought to keep the flames away from the north rose window, which contains original stained-glass from the 13th century.
Damaged but Defiant
The fire on the roof looked horrific and many people feared the worst, but the ceiling remained mostly intact and the interior was protected from the worst of the blaze.
Many of the relics stored within the Cathedral were saved by firemen, including the crown of thorns and the Blessed Sacrament from the tabernacle.
Several paintings have been sent to the Louvre to be treated for smoke damage.
Just days before the fire, the 16 bronze statues on the spire had been removed as part of the restoration efforts.
All three rose windows survived, although the lead that holds the glass in place may need to be redone after suffering such intense heat.
The 15th-century organ was spared by the flames but may have taken some water damage.
The gold cross and statues surrounding the altar appear relatively untouched.
The bells and bell towers remain intact.
Three beehives sheltering 180,000 bees located on the roof survived. The bees were only put to sleep by the smoke!
Looking to the Future
President Macron has called for Notre Dame to be restored within five years, and approximately 1 billion euros have already been donated to that cause by large and small donors around the world. In the meantime, the Mayor of Paris has approved plans to build a temporary wooden cathedral on the esplanade in front of Notre Dame where its congregation can meet until it reopens.